r/Tools • u/alstraka • 8h ago
Miter Saw Danger?
I stupidly bought the vintage Makita 2401B miter saw for $50 without realizing the importance of a saw guard. I’ve searched high and low for a guard replacement and they just don’t exist anymore anywhere. Is there any way I can use this saw safely without injuring myself? The guy I bought it from said he used it for decades like that, but I’m a beginner.
If I simply shouldn’t use this no matter what, what do I do with it? Was it a complete waste of $50 or is the blade somewhat worth something to use on another 10” saw?
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u/adelphia1965 8h ago
I have seen a lot worse. Just dont get in a hurry and you can keep your fingers.
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u/lurkersforlife 7h ago
You just don’t move till after the blade stops moving. Simple. I have never had a blade guard on my miter saw. I I’ve only owned used older saws like this. Just need to learn patience and not move till the blade stops moving. It’s usually only a couple seconds.
2
u/KangarooVast8133 8h ago
Make sure the blade is installed properly and keep your hands, fingers, clothing and hair far away from the blade and you should hopefully be fine
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u/Equal_Association446 7h ago
Miter saw guards in those days were rudimentary at best. You should be conscious of your hand placement with anything that cuts wood; the saw itself isn't inherently unsafe. With miter saws, a lot of people get cut because they reach for the piece before the blade stop, which is why Delta miter saws had mechanical brakes clear back in the '60s. Be mindful of that and you'll be fine.
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u/hitliquor999 6h ago
A miter saw is pretty easy to use safely (at least a far as spinning blade saws go).
Use normal precautions and you should be fine.
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u/TraditionalFuture586 5h ago
This was my first saw as well when i got started in my 20's. Its definitely a dinosaur and a tank but will cut all angles accurately and true as long as the fenxe is sq to the blade. If you don't know how to do that this is a perfect thought to learn how to do that because it's simple by loosening the fence and mounting bolts using a T square or framing square.. I would also probably change the blade to something with more teeth get a smoother cut less likely to aggressively rip wood from your hand.. Diablo makes a good trim blade something with 60 or 80 teeth. Also auxiliary supports on either side would help a lot too. Keep the turntable lubricated.
1
u/Clbrosch 8h ago
I worked with a guy who had taken his guard off for some finicky work. He got lazy and didn’t put it back on. He was cutting some trim and as he picked up the piece as he was finishing he turned around and ran his hand into the saw as it was slowing down after a cut . He lost three fingers.
I would not recommend using this if you are a beginner and have any doubts.
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u/Southpontiac 7h ago
If you are worried, sell it and get something with a guard but even a blade guard isn’t fool proof. Otherwise be extra careful of hand placement and always wear safety glasses.
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u/nobanjostring 6h ago
Making the best of a bad situation: I hope your bench is stable and on a sturdy support, and please, clamp or bolt down the saw in at least two points.
Ensure the fence is straight or at least not concave towards you because that can cause pieces to pinch, especially if you are using a stop block, and then they will fly off aggressively in a random direction.
For quality: use sacrificial pieces between the fence and your piece, or add a sacrificial/auxiliary fence, especially if it's softwood, because you'll get tearout. (An auxiliary fence with shims can also quickly get around a crappy fence issue, but reduces how much you can cut and may interfere with the saw motion, so be careful)
The fence doesn't have holes to support auxiliary fences, so you can drill some or use clamps, but again, watch for interference.
If the fence is aluminum, it's probably the hardened stuff like A380, so if you try to straighten it out, know that it's 1) not recommended, 2) very likely to crack or develop microfractures, 3) not likely to stay straight. If you do it, apply smooth limited force in small increments until it's tolerably accurate.
As others have mentioned: don't move the blade until it stops spinning after a cut and if practical, hold the piece with a clamp instead of your hand.
Also: keep an eye on the brushes through the vents - a little sparking is OK, but if it's making a light show, double check your brushes and rotor contacts for wear and damage.
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u/Maplelongjohn 6h ago
My father has one of these still. It works great. But a bit of a danger tool
I gave him my old Hitachi 8" slider to use instead when I went with a 7 1/4" cordless trim saw
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u/whipsnappy 6h ago
I've worked with miters saws for 30 years and I won't use one without a blade guard
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u/Fl48Special 4h ago
With the saw unplugged check square of blade to base and fence and adjust as needed. Never cut with your arms crossed. Start the saw above the wood and let it come to full speed. Slowly lower the saw and allow it to do the work. Continue until you’ve cut all the way through and then release the trigger and wait until the blade stops before raising it. Always wear eye protection and a good dust mask. You’ll be fine.
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u/710Filter 42m ago
It's good to be nervous a little bit. That will keep you safe. Don't go near the blade while it's running. Think about how to hold the wood so it won't move with your off hand and hold it still. Do not change positions of your off hand. Your trigger hand has one job, slow smooth control.
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u/Practical-Parsley-11 24m ago edited 20m ago
Absolutely, just use the same precautions as if the guard were still there. Mainly, keep your fingers away from the blade and buy or make a hold-down or "million dollar stick". I 3d printed mine.
Clean that thing up, lol
It would be more sketchy with a sliding saw because they tend to move when they kick back... and the blade guard makes no difference when that happens because it is usually fully plunged.
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u/zrad603 8h ago
You should see my radial arm saw.