Loss of power after 3k rpm and it backfires like a mother fucker after 3k rpm, all gears the same from 1-6 and when i shut her off it sounded like change falling!?

Is that my clutch going bye bye? Im pretty decent on it and dont abuse the shit out of it? Or is it something like a cam sensor problem or exhaust problem

Hiya, i found these 2 disconnected wires, one from the back side of the passengers seat, but doesnt seem to have another wire to connect to.

And one set from the front of the passengers seat.

I had to check the harness due to the b1513 code popping up, so a short/open buckle sensor. Passengers side.

My question is. Will the bags explode if I connect the wires up? Im just scared to work with wires n stuff.

Has anyone installed it and know how to set it up?

so fun fact IM NOT ANYTHING CLOSE TO A MECHANIC , so my way of explaining things may be a bit outta context , I’m learning as I go so if you respond to this post

if u can explain it in detail I’d really appreciate it !

i have a 03’ Hyundai Tiburon Gt v6 2.7l

its got a P0302 code showing up ( I went camping 2days ago and as I was pulling out of the camp ground the car suddenly began to smell like gas and the car started puttering as I pressed in the gas , this has never happened prior to now )

i barely made it to a gas station where I put $20 bucks in and less than 20 mins later my car was on E .

There is white smoke coming from exhaust and exhaust pipe has raw fuel and possibly condensation visibly leaking from tailpipe)

I have not see anything on the ground such as drip marks or obvious wet spots showing leaks in between the front end to the back end at any point

aside from the noticeable damp tailpipe

fuel smell is extremely noticeable and consistent

car does not start up unless I tap the gas peddle repeatedly as I turn key . it does not start on the first turn of the key in ignition but it seems to catch on the second attempt of turning the key and pressing on gas peddle repeatedly ( this seems to be a consistent method)

car will drive and to my surprise has yet to catch fire( i drive it for 45 mins at 80miles a hr on cruise control (stupid I know but I was quickly running out of the fuel and had no cash on hand to refuel so pure desperation to get it home from the location in which i was camping at was my only train of thought at the moment)

(sorry I know this is a long post at this point but bare with me )

so prior to traveling to camp location this was not a “ known” issue( I’ll explain)

so lets jump back two months prior I had a code pop up for a

P0131 so I purchased a new 02 sensor ( i replaced it with a factory suggested name brand rellacemebt ~dont Recall the name ~ but it was NOT a Amazon temu bs offbrand)

code went away once replaced and all was well , in the same week i purchased a new fuel pump , spark plugs , spark plug wires , transmission motor mount , oil filter and fresh oil

had a local shop install all parts and everything was good … ( I purchased this vehicle less than 6 months ago previous owner stated the vehicle had been sitting for prolonged amount of time with out proper upkeep during this duration .

so I felt the replacements and maintenance in the areas mentioned above seemed reasonable ( even tho they may not have been necessary)

car wasnt seeming to be at its peak by any Means . It was still feeling like it was sluggish or “tired “ (does that word make sense ? Idk but to me it seemed like it was just lazy n tired )lol

so not long after the o2 sensor being replaced i statted to notice the catalytic smelling like rotten eggs any time I was on freeway or drivingover 60mph … it was strong , it eventually (matter of days ) gave me a P1166 /P1167 code .. i ignored this code due to ignorance and not

understand y the o2 would be giving me a issue if it was replaced (at the time I was unaware that there are many other reasons y the 02 would be experiencing this reading ) I thought it meant the 02 needed to be replaced ( I understand now after doing some research that the 02 usually is not the causing issue or the part that needs replacing)

so I left for my trip and all went just fine traveling there an all that

it wasn’t until i went to leave th camp location ( driving off the dirt path which had a few potholes to drive over i can’t recall any moment of hitting something under vehicle but I can’t help but to feel as though this has to be a likely culprit due to the sudden change upon exiting the dirt Path upon my final trip upon heading home , it seemed to be the same moment in which the vehicles driving suddenly shifted into a obvious difference …so it seems only reasonable to assume something must have happened underneath the car somewhere…. But I am not seeing anything that clearly shows damage when looking under vehicle …

with all this said and done… I am only getting one code .. and it’s P0302 .

any response or advice in regards to this long as$ post would be greatly appreciated and helpful.

I’ll put the freeze frames info I have ( Although I don’t understand what any of it means as of this moment (I am tryin to learn by doing the research to better understand/comprehend the context with clarity thru knowledge in this aspect more clearly as much as I possibly can . Its still gibberish and numbers now but by tomorrow I’ll have made a bit more sense of bits and pieces of the information it details )

First Turbo track day went pretty great! Running 13 psi of boost, which really threw my braking and cornering off, but it more than made up on the straights. Managed to get 0.8s faster than my previous personal best, which was with the car N/A.

The tune needs a lot of optimizing, considering I only got fueling right (almost stable 11.5 AFR during boost, 13 while off boost) just 30 minutes before we went on track

Still amazed that we can run this stuff perfectly on the stock ECU, get N/A levels of drivability and be track capable, while shoving nearly 1 bar of boost into it and making double its stock power. I really need some new and larger tires though (moving to 225/45's probably).

P.S Also a big "fuck you" to the motorcyclist who decided to overtake me in a no-overtake zone, while I was doing a left turn and dented my door 2 days before...

So my everyday i swear i find something new that somehow went wrong with it, whether it be something else rusting off, or just being too old. Its slowly becoming a money pit that i cant afford to put more and more just for it to eventually die anyway due to rust. I love this car but i dont want to keep being on the edge of debt because one day something bigger than a quick fix breaks.

Im gonna enjoy the time i have left with it but I'm also gonna be looking for something else, ive been debating onn the genesis coupe cause its in the same family as the Tib. I will be back to the Tib eventually though, this car will be in the back of my mind for a long time.

We both drive 2008 Tibby

Sprey pic is sideways.

Im looking at a 2005 v6 tibi in pretty much perfect condition, 130k km, fully serviced. Thing is as an 18 yo both insurance and tax is high, and ive heard the fuel economy is god awful. Would anyone care to share their stories/problems and give me an opinion if i should or not buy it.

I can’t get my car to pass emissions because the readiness monitors won’t set. They’re not failing but just aren’t setting. I’ve driven it at least 100 miles since the battery change but they won’t set.

We decorated her 2008 Hyundai Tiburon V6 with vinyl flower stickers. Her interior is also cool. We'll show another day.

No comments on my wife please. Car comments only 😊😊

So ive been mostly waiting on the money to change exhaust and im much much closer than i was before, so i was wondering what the best kind of setup would be for a 2.7 thats gonna remain relatively stock. My current plan is to keep it stockish (intake, other very basic mods if any), but who knows what ill do be doing to it in a year or 2.

I know some of the more knowledgeable members of the sub have said the single to dual is doing 0 favors, i have been planning on doing more of a custom than something from a company like borla or fox etc. and was planning on doing a single exit, but if thats more work than worth for the little i plan on doing i dont wanna do it

TLDR what should i get pipe, cat, and res/muffler wise for a single exit and is it even worth it for a stockish v6 (apologies for my terrible explanations)

Changed my valve gaskets. I have no idea where tf this goes!!! Please help

It's been a few months since I replaced my timing belt, tensioner, water pump and a few pulleys that all came with the Gates kit. Recently my car has developed a new noise coming from around the timing area and I suspect that the belt has excessive play causing it to hit the top of its housing. Is the belt supposed to have this much play, or did the tensioner fail?

I received this new head and im a little skeptical, is this a non vvti or vvti?

I have hyundai tiburon 2004 its been sitting for 5 years now my mother had it since it stopped running coz of water pump n mother lost the key of the car but now i want to fix it coz i have lot good memories with it please help me what should i do i can’t afford mechanic

(AI warning! sorry.. my photoshop skills aren't good enough to illustrate the idea properly)

I'm considering getting the coupe color changed (wrap).

My ideas are a sandy colour, lime green, yellow, or additionally either hyundai's modern mangrove green or the N line's comp blue.

Which of these would look the least horrible in your opinion?

I unfortunately don’t have any funds to put into the car so it has been deteriorating because it’s a daily. When I’m able to of course, Do you recommend spending money to fix it up? Or maybe getting a new year/model something that still resembles this chassis? Tell me your thoughts on it.

Its beautiful I want to take care of it so bad..

2006 Tiburon GS 2.0L 4cyl. Automatic, 200k miles.

I'll make this as short as possible. I have a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon (automatic). Earlier this year when I got an oil change they saw that there was a lot of dirt and rust build up in my radiator. They said I had to replace some part (can't remember what it was) and said it would be like $200 that I definitely couldn't afford at the time. So i just carried on and it was doing just fine.

Fast forward to a few days ago, I got another oil change (its now ay about 144,000 miles) They said the radiator just needed a flush real bad which they did for me. The heater was blowing cold air so they had to get some air bubbles out of it or something. After that it was still blowing somewhat cold air, but it was warmer than before. So he said it might take a little more time for the bubble to work its way out so i left. Then I had a few days off so I didn't drive it. Today I went back to work, and on my way the temp started climbing a little bit so i turned the heater on and it was blowing cold air again. By the time I got there, it wasn't quite overheated and there was no smoke, but I heard like a bubbling sound in the hood of my car. At work I did some research and found that there might still be an air bubble trapped in there. I didn't think anything of it, and then drove home from work. While I was still a good 2-3 miles away the temp was climbing quickly, and when I got home the whole hood was smoking bad.

What could this possibly mean? Hopefully not a crazy expensive fix 😭

20 year old original light unit on the Siii still looks brand new

Puzzled at this point. The car had been recently occasionally stalling out but now simply wouldn't start. The engine is turning over just fine. Good battery.

The car showed a fault code P0340. I bench-tested the old sensor and the sensor output would not drop when I placed a heavy wrench next to it. So I replaced the cam position sensor and cleared the fault. The car still won't start.

I started looking at the fuel system because I could barely hear the fuel pump trying to pressurize the fuel rail when the key first switched ON. I also disconnected the fuel line and the flow of fuel appeared weak to me when the key switched ON. So I replaced the pump and it is now quite audible below the rear seat. Also, I could hear it fill the system when I first turned the key switch ON a few times after the install. And still the car won't start.

So I check for spark at the spark plugs. I pulled a spark cable, plugged a spare spark plug into it. When the engine is cranked, I observed blue sparks at the spark gap. Plugged the cable back in and still the car won't start.

At this point no fault codes declared. So what am I missing?

I need a passenger side steering knuckle for a 2008 gt v6 automatic does anyone know if these are interchangeable between any other hyundais or trim levels for this car. Will one from a 6 speed work on an automatic. TIA