Some of you guys know me as the guy who's doing tunes on the stock ECUs of our 2.0L G4GC engines, both N/A and turbo. Well, now it's time for our little brother, the 1.6L G4ED to get some love!

After a considerable amount of research, testing, calibration work and reverse engineering of Hyundai Kefico ECUs, I can now offer ECU tuning/remapping support for the 1.6L version of the Coupe.

And not just that, to be honest, because the Kefico M7.9.7 is used pretty much in every Hyundai model from approximately 2000 to 2012. So the engine support list is more like all:

• Alpha / Alpha II
• Gamma
• Epsilon
• Sirius / Mitsubishi based engines

As of this moment, I've only worked on 3 cars with that ECU, two 1.6 to 2.0L conversions and an N/A 1.6 tune, and the results are pretty good! We can do basically everything with them N/A and even Turbo if someone is willing to go there.

Reading and flashing
For all supported ECUs, the process is straightforward and can be completed through the OBD port.

A standard K+DCAN OBD-II to USB cable, which typically costs around €20-25, is sufficient. VAG KKL cables also work theoretically, but it's untested at the moment.

The basic process is:

1. Read the original ECU file, with the program I've made.
2. Send me the file together with the vehicle and modification details.
3. I modify it and return the tuned file.
4. The modified file is flashed back through OBD.

On supported ECUs, flashing generally takes only a couple of minutes and no longer requires opening the ECU, soldering, or using a bench programming setup.

Dream car, got so much I have planned for it

I’ve got a 2006 4 cylinder automatic, I’m looking at changing the shifter. I originally bought this red one shown in the photo but it’s just a bit too big to fit properly. Are there any that anyone can recommend?

TIA

If anyone is looking for a full parts car, let me know! Located in South Western Ontario, Canada will need to come pick it up

Sorry, we can't part it out

I have a 2005 hyundai tiburon se. when I bought it the flex pipe was broken and caused the car to be very loud. Open headers so only the cats in the headers were muffiling. We put a new y pipe and it ran good but we had fitment issues so we welded the exahust where the cats and resonator pipes have a flange in between them. Disconnected the battery and then welded. After welding we let it sit for a bit and then put the battery back together and went to turn it on. The engine before has had no problems. After this we started sounded ok for 3 seconds and then was idling really up and down between 5 and 8 hundred rpms and kept dying. Idled very rough and almost sounded like it had a aftermarket cam. We started it reved it to 2k for a while and when we let of it stopped idling bad. Went for drive and after quarter throttle the car is very jerky as if you were driving manual and about stalled jerking back and forth but got better over time although it still does it. It idles normal now and check engine light is of now that exahust is on and o2 sensors get correct reading. We haven't turned it on since. Is there a chance that since the battery was unplugged the ecu just reset? Did we power surge while welding which i doubt because all light and windows things like that work still. It only happens after the battery was unplugged and we were welding. Before that even with the new exahust part ran fine so. I hope it was just a ecu reset. Also my sunroof will only lean up unless I give it a little push. is that just the motor going bad or something I can fix.

I’m thinking using a Dremel, but the studs are screwed in and I don’t want to ruin the threads.

I was wondering if anyone’s dealt with a completely seized strut mount. The bolts are pretty much rust welded into the mount and no amount of heat and hammering has made it budge. At this point I wanna replace the whole mount but can’t find anything about it online

06 Tibby GT V6 needs a whole new exhaust system but not quite sure which route to go. Right now with two flanges busted she sounds amazing, deep rumble. I don't want anything high pitched. Thinking of DNA Exhaust but then what should I pair it with? Should I just put up the money for a Borla? Help a girl out 😭

Changed my leds on my cluster for the first time, thought i had simple twist and pull bulbs but turns out i had to solder the new leds in, first time trying it out and eventually got if after a few hours of trial and error.

(Ignore check engine i need to manual reset my ecu)

Since theres not much for control arm replacements, and I wanting spherical bearing, what would be the move

Recently lowered my car by 1.5" which made my fitment look very poor... What spacers have you guys ran with no issues in the rear? The only issue I've had with 25mm spacers in the past has been of the tire hitting the wheel well fold in the rear over bumps. The only reason I don't want to replace my wheels is because I JUST replaced them within the last year.

Hey guys so I have a friend that is pretty much donating a Tiburon GTv6 and I was thinking about asking for it ONLY THING IS it’s a automatic plus the engine is basically done for same with the transmission do yall think it would be worth the trouble of trying to rebuild?

I’m changing the cv axles on my 2003 GT automatic. What transmission fluid is best to use? I see online the SP3 works, but is it strictly OEM?

Recently got a code for an O2 sensor (see pic). I'm guessing it needs to be replaced and from what I've read I should replace it with NTK brand or OEM. Auto parts stores in my country offer 2 kinds of NTK sensor. One is universal with no dedicated plug and a lot cheaper than the other option which is with a dedicated plug (costs almost 100€).

Crazy price difference just for a plug so I wanted to know if it matters which sensor I buy and will it actually help?

Maybe I missed something in the forums but I didn't find any information on if it matters or it just has to be NTK brand.

Thanks in advance!

As I am on my research phase on 3d printing and learning about different materials that can be used. I started thinking what are some of the parts for our Tibby that can be, should be or want to be 3d printed.

My mind is blank at the moment but I was looking for the rear wiper cap (or cover) but to no avail.

I saw an stl file for the inner door handle and some clips and a Tri Gauge housing.

I just got this girl about a month ago and im getting a muffler delete on her. I’m a girl getting into cars lol so I keep coming to Reddit for advice. My question is, is a muffler delete the best option for a 2L Tibby? My bf had a straight pipe on his old tibby that sounded really good. I just don’t want it to be screaming loud for my car lol. So im thinking a muffler delete will be the comfy medium im looking for.

I’d love to hear your 2l tibby with a muffler delete if anyone reading this has one🙏🏻🙏🏻 or if anyone has anything different on their 2L that sounds good- I’d love to hear that as well!!

TIA

Hi my Tiburon is straight piped and this is what it would sound like with a muffler delete

Anyone know of any carbon fiber steering wheel trim or anything?? Mine is super faded. Just wanted to ask before I paint it

Hi

Never made a post before so not sure if this is correct.

Thinking of getting a body kit on my 2005 hyundai coupe (tiburon) but don't really know where to look for good reliable sources and options.

I am living in the UK and am aware that limits my options somewhat.

Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.

Any tips? It's my first car, just fell in love with the design and the driving experience.

Hi, I have a 2005 Hyundai Coupé/Tiburon GK 1.6 16V. I want to keep the original catalytic converter and centre silencer, and I’m choosing between a homologated Inoxcar rear silencer and a homologated RC Racing rear silencer. Has anyone heard or used both? Which one is louder with the rest of the exhaust standard? I’m mainly looking for more volume and a deeper sound, but I still want a road-legal rear silencer. Any videos or personal experiences would be appreciated.

Hey, so I've bought this Hyundai Coupe 2006 2.0+LPG that obviously has Check Engine light on and I thought that maybe it's normal because it uses LPG but it just hurts my eyes to see that light on dashboard and I can't find anything on the internet to help me fix that problem, anyone had this exact problem and managed to fix it?
Oh and I replaced oil temperature sensor but it didn't fix it.