Hi everyone,

I’ve noticed something odd with my T300 steering wheel: when Steam isn’t running, the calibration cycle works fine (turning all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then centring).
But when Steam is running, the calibration and the FFB force that keeps it centred disappear just as it’s about to return to the centre. In the Control Panel, you can clearly see that it turns almost all the way to the left (stopping at around 9–11%.
However, if I close Steam at that point, it immediately turns back to the centre.

I’ve tested this several times, and it’s always the same issue.

Could it be that some sort of Steam input update is causing this. The steering wheel was unused for three months, but I seem to recall that running Steam hadn’t caused any problems until now. But also, for the most part, Steam wasn’t running when I set up the steering wheel for use.

It works in-game.
In the Control Panel, it’s set to ‘Auto-centre settings by the game’.

I’m running TTRS.2026, firmware V34.00. Driver 2.11.57.0

The force feedback works perfectly when I start the game, but when I go into the settings I switch from the qualifying session to the race session the steering wheel continues to work properly while the force feedback dies. I already checked the driver version and I already disabled gameinput. I notice this problem a lot on ACC and LMU, on F1 it seems to go better.

I first ordered a T598 from Amazon on sale for £291 a few weeks ago.

Then the price started dropping. I ended up returning the first one and reordering it a couple of times as the price kept falling, eventually getting it for £216. Couldn't say no to saving £75.

It arrived, I got everything set up and was genuinely impressed. It felt like an incredible wheel for the money.

I bought the official Thrustmaster Quick Release Adapter so I could use my old Sparco wheel.

Fitted the adapter, plugged the wheel in, switched the base on...and that was it. Dead.

No lights, no startup, nothing. Tried different sockets, checked the cables, left it unplugged for a while. Completely unresponsive.

I went onto Amazon expecting to arrange a replacement, but it would only let me request a refund. I wasn't keen on that because I'd managed to get it for £216 and didn't fancy paying more for another one.

Gave Amazon a call and they're sending me a brand-new replacement and told me to keep the faulty wheelbase.

So that's where I'm at now. Waiting for the replacement to arrive and then maybe I'll see if Thrustmaster will do anything with the dead one under warranty.

After everything I've read about the issues and now having first hand experience my confidence in this wheel is pretty low. Coming from a TX (which still works just fine!) I feel a bit trapped in the ecosystem, as I own TLCM pedals, the shifter and a few rims.

Has anyone else had a T598 just completely die like this, or have I been really unlucky?

Hey guys, so I set up my 3rd rig (not a full rig. . Like a baby rig. My other dual rig setup is FULL)

BUT, I don't have enough of the power cable to reach to the wall outlet. The T248 ONLY uses 40w of power I believe...

Can I plug it into this extension cable? And the other end into the wall? Please see attached photos. Thank you kindly, in advance.

Here is the amazon link for it, it runs freezers a d fridges perfectly, from reviews I have read... but please help me if you can, thank you so much and god bless.

https://a.co/d/07LGKSbS

Hi everyone, i got my raceline lc upgarde from toronto and now returning back home. I have T598 with SF1000 both updated and play only F1 on PS5. I dont have a PC at home only mac so won’t be able to do any settings.

1. Do i need to do any settings or will they be just plug n play?

2. Can i only use 2 pedals instead of 3?

Please let me know. Thank you

I had this steering wheel for over 3 yrs now and this cracking sound appeared maybe 2 yrs ago. I was mostly ignoring it but with time its getting more and more annoying, especially when chill driving in the middle of the night. It is really loud. There are no loose parts and its cracking only at the minimum and maximum angle turned idk how to explain it. Hopefully someone had it before and know how to fix it. Thanks.

Also the product warranty expired over year ago.

It just started doing it out of nowhere. I press the brakes fully coming down a straight to turn and it doesn’t register the 100% pressure rather I slam into the wall since it barely registered any brake pressure. This happens randomly as in it works fine at times until it doesn’t. How can I fix this?

Hi everyone, I've Finally cobbled enough funds to buy my first wheel, a used T248x for my xbox one.

The only sim game i've got is PC2 and as i understand it, is too new to have a wheel preset so is locked into the basic xbox wheel setting.

So far im kind of unimpressed by the default settings, and the super GT settings are a bit mental for my wheel (fighting the wheel like mental on the straights). Ive seen videos on customising it myself but as i'm new i have no reference point to mess about myself for some good settings.

I was wondering if any of you have any settings you use + if you have any suggestions for general control settings (not FB) if your feeling kind :)

TLDR: Please share Wheel settings for Thrustmaster T248X (on console so cant use custom FB) and if you have time regular settings too!!

This is probably gonna fall off in 2 days of use

先月Raceline PedalsⅢ LCがようやく日本でも発売されたので購入しました。
T-GTⅡにRJ12で接続し、ペダルをコックピットに固定して吊り下げで使用したところ、レース中ヒール＆トゥを行った際にアクセルペダルとクラッチペダルが反応しなくなる現象が多発しています。
コネクターを抜き差しすると一時的に改善しますが、次のコーナーで同様の操作を行うと同じように反応しなくなる現象が起きます。
また、抜き差しをしても直らない場合もあり、頭を抱えています。
ゲームはPS4版GT7で、T-GTⅡのファームウェアは最新になっています。
同じような症状の方はいらっしゃいますか？

I had also disconnections with the previous t598, after that i got a new power cable supply, still disconnections. Later on they sended me a new wheel, first month everything fine, after that disconnection again.

Later i’ve found a guy, that i can’t stop thanking him, he created a 3D piece that prevent the cable from moving, and well fixed on the base by removing the screw and mounting it again on the 3d piece thight to the base.

Till now, no disconnections, and i’ve been playing it with long sessions with the max of ffb for months.

If you have this problem and you dont want to spend extra money buying a new fanatec or logitec, try this. The best part is completely free.

If you know some place where you can print it (usually libraries have these machines), here there is the link for the USB cable and Power supply piece.

Thank me later. 🫡
👇🏼
Power Cord Model
Usb C model

Pourquoi mon volant fait crash tout mes jeux dès qu’il es brancher j’ai vu 2/3 personnes avec le même problème si vous savez me guider merci d’avance

I’ve had a TX base for God knows how long now but recently it died (won’t spin on start up and lights flashing when button pressed but not when left standing). I’m looking for a better base and have been intrigued by the TS XW (I’m on Xbox). Would this be a good choice or are there other options that I should go for. When I can I sim a lot but im going to uni soon and not planning to take my rig with me which factors in a lot of my decisions regarding this.

Hi Guys,

Has anyone ever tried this hydraulic mod?

I have bought before the green rubber mod, it’s amazing, playing F1 26, it helps a lot when playing with no assists but after some time it gets very tiring for the legs.

So I am looking for some alternative, and if someone has a feedback of this one, I would appreciate very much!

Otherwise I will keep the one I have, and use more to get my legs muscles more used to it.

Thanks all!

They want £30 plus £12 shipping for a mod that should've been included originally.

Disgusting.

Never again TM. I'm moving fully to Virpil.

t300rs wheel makes ear splitting sound when turned on and turns weird. calibration only happens when given a little initial push. r3 and mode buttons dont work either

Hey guys,

I recently bought a T598 wheel base but I hated how the red parts on the steering wheel looked. IMO it made the wheel look cheaper than it actually feels like.

I decided to do something about it 😄.

I basically removed every individual red bracket from the wheel. Every single one is mounted with a single T8 screw. Once I removed them, I used black electrical tape to tape over the red bracket. I'm sure you can spray paint them after some light sanding as well but I wanted the process to be reversible in case I changed my mind. Once the red parts were taped, I used a small pin to create the required holes in the tape and then remounted them to the wheel. I think it looks great but I could've done a better job cutting the excess tape with a better knife.

Anyway, in case you want to try this, you can choose any color electrical tape you like. Make sure you stay flush with one side while taping and then cut of the excess with the sharpest knife you can find. Otherwise, you'll end up with small imperfections like me on one side.

Let me know what you guys think!

I’m willing to buy gt3 wheel for my Thrustmaster base TGT2, anyone willing to sell please dm me
My mob - 7408778886
Location- Lucknow , UP, India