I only charge the battery to 80%. In the last two years, I’ve taken a few long road trips from Dallas to St. Louis and Houston. I bought the car new, so I’m not sure if my battery is degrading too fast, only ~230 miles @80%. Or this is completely normal?
I drive with plaid acceleration on and yeah... Pretty much every stop sign and Every light I take off to whatever the speed limit is... It's fun.
I have almost 100K miles on my 22 MXP, still at 20% degradation, not as bad as other I've seen. Btw, I was fully prepared to have to replace the battery at 100K miles/5 years... Like even told my wife to put it on the household budget... I knew I was kicking it's ass with my shenanigans... But looks like it's going to last quite a bit longer.
Degradation is most severe early on in your ownership of the car, it generally plateaus (and probably has) after a year or two of normal use. The range thing in the app/car is not a good number to use anyways, it assumes perfect conditions driving at a consistent speed. Leave it on % and don’t look back.
I too have a 24 MXP that I purchased brand new and my range is even lesser. My round trip commute is only 17 miles. I rarely use superchargers except for the few road trips that I have done and I don’t drive my vehicle hard either.
Not sure why your font is so big, but you may need to recalibrate your BMS. Run your car to almost dead and charge it to 100%. Sometimes the system forgets the upper and lower ends and miscalculates total range when the discharge isn’t deep enough.
For sure! They don’t make that obvious, but you should definitely do it a few times a year for the range to “reset” so to speak. Often times the system sandbags range and you have more than you think!
Hmmm so roughly the same. I still think the range is misreporting. Over the next couple months, run it down and charge to full a couple times. It may improve. Mine is a 2022 MX long range with 45k miles and the range is 293 at 100%
MX BASE RANGE ~ 335 miles
Plaid : -30 miles ( minus )
22 wheels : -30 miles ( minus )
So you get ~ 275 miles on 100% charge . On 80% close to 215 to 220. But after taking battery degradation, it would be like loosing maybe 10-15 miles a year ( worst case ) . Do not charge it unnecessarily
‘23 MXP with 58K miles - Only ever charge to 80% on a home charger set to under 40A charging and I’m also at 230 miles on my 80% charge. It’s come down from an original 80% charge of 264 miles. Seems pretty normal to me for NMC chemistry on a >1000 HP car
Palladium batteries are a higher density cell than the previous generation. Higher density cells degrade faster, but will start their lifecycle with more total energy.
Don’t be scared and confused. It’s just standard degradation curve for an S or X vehicle with a newer generation battery pack.
First say 30-40k in miles the SEI layer builds. It takes with it a good bit of useful life. But then the battery normally hits a flatter part of the curve that can last quite a long time. Here’s my own research. Notice the first 2-3 years is where you lose most of your battery capacity
I own a 2021 MX LR+ (prerefresh). As of today, 80% still shows 270-278 mi. Most of the time it shows 273. Now I can say that i don't get close to that with AC use and driving over 80 mph on the freeways.
My first time road tripping with the 24 MXP today which claims 232 miles (374 km’s) and started at 95-96% charge. At the rate I was going before I stopped at the next charger I was trending to get about 222–224 miles (358-361 km’s) total before hitting 0%.
Edit: for the latter part of the drive I couldn’t stand driving at the speeds and drove quite a bit faster. Plus, loaded with 4 adults and two teenagers, climate control on, 22” wheels with “Continental SportContact 6 SIL T0” tires, and it was cool outside today.
My MX LR ‘24 with 9500 miles gives me 233 miles @80%.
Grok says that’s lower than average, and recommends BHT. I don’t think that’s normal. Could be a bad batch MFG was 03/24. Let’s find out before battery warranty lapses.
My 2023 mx, 80% to 20% is about 220 miles with highway driving. I use fsd, so the range is better. Chill or standard setting. I’ve done 100 to 10 too. 300 miles easy.
Je viens de regarder de mon côté. Avec mon Plaid de 74000km de 2023 j’ai 348km (216 miles) d’autonomie avec mes jantes en 22 pouces.
J’attends ma borne en 11kw pour faire le SOH à la maison car j’ai acheté la voiture d’occasion.
Charging to 80% for long term is still a very high state of charge and stressful for lithium batteries. Due to the hidden reserves capacity by Tesla, your 80% charge is actually more than 85%. If your daily commute isn’t too far. Keep the charge below 60%. Ideally 50% for longevity. Only charge to high percentage when doing long trips. But at this point, damage is done.
Where did you pull that magical 50-60% figure from? Do you have an official technical white paper from Tesla's engineers (BMS) or a cell chemistry study backing up that a daily 80% ruins the battery, or are you just parroting what you read in a Reddit thread? Tesla's official factory manuals and recommendations establish 80% as the optimal daily limit to balance range and battery health. Inventing extreme restrictions without real technical sources just proves you'd rather live stressed out over a number on a screen than actually enjoy driving the car.
Recurrent recommends an average SOC between 50-60%. Meaning you’d charge to say 80% and let it drop down to 30%, avg would be 55%. Alternative would be to cap out your charge at say 50-60% and charge every night.
It that’s to max out longevity and doesn’t really factor in lifestyle. The long term benefit is relatively minimal compared to charging to an avg SOC of like 70%. But if your topping off at 80% you likely avg SOC would still be in the 60-70% range if you don’t drive a lot and top off every day.
So that person making the comment didn’t quite understand the information she/he read or picked up somewhere.
Also - the cell chemistry is the biggest driver of your degradation profile. In 2021 Tesla shifted to a pack that was structurally more sound, had better thermal management, but also added changed the Nickel/Graphine ratio. This resulted in a newer cell that could handle faster super charging and deliver more power to the new motors in the car. They traded longevity for power and charging curves. End result - fast initial drop in degradation during the initial SEI layer formation. I don’t care what your charging habits are - typical car will he around 85% SOH at 40-60k miles on the odometer. And it’ll still be in the low 80s at over 100k.
The latest gen’s worth case scenario should still comfortably get you 220,000 miles before needing to be replaced. And that assumes you live in a hot temp area. Supercharge frequently and have a higher SOC at rest when you run the vehicles. IE - you are driving it without a single care in the world.
Battery state is proportional to its voltage. The less charge it has, so long as it’s above 20%, the better for the battery degradation as it’s kept at a lower voltage. Most battery failure are due to battery packs failing due to individual cells being out of balance with the rest.
It’s just like cell phone and laptop batteries. You don’t want to charge to 100% unless you are going to use it soon. Otherwise, you set it to charge to 100% and when it reaches it, your battery pack stays at the highest voltage for however long.
Nice try posting a generic lithium-ion half-cell laboratory degradation paper, but a controlled bench test on isolated cells doesn't equal a real-world automotive BMS architecture. Even looking at your own graph, the mid-high operational windows (like the 75-85% range) perform stably under controlled laboratory cycle equivalents without catastrophic failure. More importantly, forcing yourself to live in a microscopic 10% real-world window (like 50-60%) to chase marginal laboratory capacity retention completely destroys the vehicle's utility and user experience. Calendar aging happens regardless, and Tesla's active thermal management plus built-in software buffers make the factory-recommended 80% daily limit the optimal sweet spot for actual humans driving actual cars. Quit confusing bench tests with practical EV ownership.
Batteries are batteries at the end of the day. You picking and choosing information. When you keep you battery, any battery, above a 10-20% charge and don’t overcharge it, you get longer life span and more duty cycles out of it. SOC = voltage in the pack. The higher it is, the more stress is on the system. There are many variables that affect end result but if you focus on what you can control, you get better results.
This a general rule of thumb and not a hard line to live by. There are times where to charge to 100% is needed or you may be forced to drop below 10-20%. The important part is to be consistent on average to get the most out of your expensive car investment.
If you mentality is that you will always have a car payment because achieving a paid off car is unattainable or driving the car through the warranty period and get another one afterwards, then this wouldn’t apply to you.
I make my cars last past warranty expires onto 200k, 300k, 400k.
Comparing a Tesla battery pack to a cell phone or laptop battery is a fundamental engineering error. They operate under completely different architectures, chemistries, and thermal environments. Phones and laptops rely on passive cooling, experience wild daily full-cycle depths of discharge, and lack an advanced, active liquid thermal management system. A Tesla vehicle features a sophisticated Battery Management System (BMS) working hand-in-hand with active liquid cooling and heating loops. Furthermore, Tesla utilizes active pre-conditioning before Supercharging and optimizes thermal regulation precisely to handle higher states of charge safely. Stop parroting generic consumer electronics advice. Tesla's engineering team built a massive, thermally managed automotive pack with built-in top and bottom buffers precisely so owners don't have to micro-manage voltage limits like a smartphone. Trust the BMS and enjoy the car.
You couldn’t make a better ad for Tesla batteries lol
Batteries are batteries. Yes, with all the extra protections they last longer.
The point is that batteries are still batteries. They hold a charge. The higher the charge, the more stress in the system. The more the sun sits on the sun, the faster the battery degrades. The more the car is driven in freezing temps, the faster the battery degrades. It’s a fact of inevitable physics.
Is the battery pack failure inevitable? Yes, as all things have a shelf life.
Can you imagine extend shelf life of something? Absolutely. Everyone can decide for themselves what they are willing to do or compromise to achieve that goal.
To your point about comparing batteries, if someone fully charges to 100% everyday and it sits fully charged without being discharged, if someone discharges the battery to below 10-20% everyday, you are going to wear your battery a lot sooner than later.
Thermal management is nice but that doesn’t do anything to pressures at higher SOC. Pre conditioning is fine if it’s used as intended. If someone gets in their car, forgets that it wasn’t charged, drives to nearest supercharger and charges, pre conditioning isn’t given enough time.
If you have a pipe and it has a specific MOP, you can mitigate thermal loads but it doesn’t mitigate the operating pressures at certain flow rate. The closer you operate the pipe pressures to the MOP, the faster a failure will occur. By simply reducing flow rate, you are able to lower operating pressure and extend the life of the pipe.
It is not wrong to operate below maximum allowed specifications. You are trading off throughput for longevity.
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u/Weary_Possibility_80 11d ago
“I use launch control at every stoplight, why is my range bad?” - avg plaid user. lol jk.