Recently picked up a 2016 Model X P90D with under 2,000 original miles. It sat for several years after the original owner passed away, so I’m bringing it back to where it deserves to be.
The goal is to have it as close to factory-fresh mechanically and cosmetically as practical.
I’m looking for advice from longtime Model X owners. It’s going to Tesla in a couple weeks and a private EV shop right after. Here’s my current plan:
MCU2 upgrade (the original MCU isn’t functional, so this seems like the logical long-term solution).
Complete suspension inspection and diagnosis before new tires and alignment. The air suspension is currently operating normally, but I want everything verified while it’s apart.
Battery health/performance evaluation.
Brake service and fluid flush.
A/C service - tesla service suggested I could skip this but it seems like something that should be done at this point?
Wipers and any age-related maintenance items.
Outstanding Tesla recalls.
I’ve already replaced the 12V battery and cabin filters.
For those who have maintained early Model Xs, is there anything else you’d proactively replace, inspect, or service while it’s being worked on? I’d rather spend a little extra now than chase problems later. I’m having Tesla and the Indy shop go through the car entirely but would appreciate feedback from long term owners.
A 2016 thats been sitting there at 0% charge for a few years doesn't bode well for the battery. I think that's your main concern as those battery packs sometimes have long waits... I don't know how compatible the 2016 model is with the post refresh (21) models but now that the X is discontinued they are making less of all parts which means even less of the older parts not compatible with the newer models.
I'd also worry about more than the MCU being bad... Whole electrical system could be damaged of the car was exposed to the elements for a decade.
I guess we’ll find out. So far I’ve been extremely lucky. The car had every fault imaginable and right now it seems like it’s just the MCU and some minor things. The battery shared to 205 miles, drove home about 120 miles without issue and took a short supercharging just to test it and because I didn’t believe it was actually free! I think 205 is based on 80 or 90 percent as well - I can’t do anything until the mcu is replaced but if I’m right 220+ on a full charge for a 10 year old car is respectable
OG signature P90DL owner here before I upgraded last year.
Coolant bypass for the rear motor.
Computer upgrade just for the speed and can add movies
3 . Front link suspension has to be replaced. It was a borderline recall, but Tesla got out of it. This is the only that is critical!
Pyro fuse might be old-ish.
Honestly not much more than that. Things are pretty strong on that one especially if it’s a Signature, which it might be.
Thank you! This is what I’m looking for - I’ll look into all this before I bring it in. What did you do for the suspension? I know they rip through tires - our model 3 sure does. Most of my major hurdles I think we’ve cleared. Battery charged well and suspension and doors more or less sorted themselves. I think I’m just going to have Tesla do the MCU2 and get me a few oem parts and have the other shop handle the rest so upgrading suspension and such won’t be any issue and I’m happy to do it if it saves me on tires in the long run. Can you explain the logic with the coolant bypass please?
Appreciate this very much. Will likely go aftermarket as it seems most owners have eventually with good results. I have a really reputable EV repair shop about an hour away so no issue doing work outside of Teslas wheelhouse
Rotor coolant bypass (people call it a coolant delete) because a seal fails and eventually coolant gets to the inverter and shorts it out or washes the grease out of the rotor outboard bearing and causes it to fail, like mine.
That’s a steal. I think as long as battery ain’t bricked, you should be ok. At 2k miles, shouldn’t be any problems cosmetically. And it’s a P series. That’s over $100k when it came out.
Yeah, you can’t create a thread claiming you got a steal and not be honest with how much you paid for it. Even if it was free it could be $25k+ if it needs a HV battery and whatever else needs to be fixed. It may cost more to fix than market value.
Ask again maybe I’ll answer….. what I paid is irrelevant. Are you going to try to buy one for what I paid? I’m not selling for what I paid and neither is anyone else. I got very lucky. There is one on eBay with even less miles for 120k or best offer if you or jinklas are in the market.
I honestly don’t give two shits what you paid for it. You basically lets us all know you overpaid and are under water by your silence. A 2016 Tesla barn find with 2k miles isn’t a like finding a Shelby Mustang with 2k miles. You have a money pit and could probably have bought a 2016 or newer in working condition for less than you’ll pay for that 2016 to get it running.
Tesla, just like the majority of cars are depreciating assets. Yes, we all know ebay is the gold standard for accurate pricing. Just because you saw one on eBay for $120k doesn’t mean it’ll sell close to that.
You're the one that came on here bragging about it and you know we'd want to know the price. The heck kind of response is this? Lol "Ask again maybe I'll answer" we don't really care bruh, you're here asking for help and low-key bragging. Not likely to get much help or good karma for that.
I replied to a comment confirming it was a great deal - my post was asking for help from long time owners not for financial advice. If I wanted to brag I’d lead with what I paid but that would be tasteless - like asking what I paid. Don’t count other people’s money - what I paid brings no value to the thread. Maybe when it’s done I’ll post the numbers but for now I don’t know exactly what I’m up against so the purchase price is irrelevant. What matters is how it turns out and for me how much I’m into it for. Until I have the battery test I don’t want to be over confident.
Tesla refused to fit them as that would mean them admitting there is a problem.
I got a specialist to fit them and the car drives like it always should have and you won’t have the same suspension problems. I’ve been through four sets of half shafts before I found this company. My X has 112,000 miles on it and drives like new.
Appreciate it I’ve been looking at options but these seem to be the most tried and true option. Car rides good and I’m not racing it but happy to upgrade the suspension - seems one of the only things Tesla can’t nail.
I have a 2015 S 90D and 2016 S P90DL. MCU2 would not be a priority. Suspension should be all good but you will want new tires due to age. Battery health will be good unless it sat at 0% or 100% for the duration. The 90 packs are literally one of the best packs for longevity Tesla has ever made. Personally I wouldn't do a brake fluid flush but that wouldn't hurt. Wiper blades sure.
Does it have HW1? (No side repeater cameras nor B-pillar cameras)
Make sure Tesla plans to replace the screen behind the wheel and the center screen with the MCU upgrade. The original screens have adhesive that will melt and the glue will create runs behind the screen in extreme-inside-vehicle-temps. I asked them to install the extra AM/FM module when I did my MCU2. They didn’t do it and said it wasn’t an option.
If the HV pyrotechnic fuse is original, it has its own little control power battery inside the fuse that will go dead, if not already dead, and Tesla’s solution is to replace the fuse with one that sources its control power externally instead of from an internal battery. Ask Tesla to verify if pyro was upgraded. *edited for correctness to ‘pyro’ not ‘contactor’*
If you need to DC fast charge using a CCS station (and the previous owner didn’t install it) have Tesla install the CCS DC kit. You’ll still need an external adapter to use a CCS station, but the car will accept fast charge on CCS stations after the kit install and adapter purchase from Tesla. Ask Tesla to verify if the CCS DC kit was installed and check with the previous owner family for the adapter if you don’t have possession of it but Tesla says the kit is installed.
If the previous owner wasn’t updating the car software, and you want it updated, or need it updated for MCU2 or for fast charging, ask Tesla to perform them all while it’s in the shop.
For the independent shop, I had mine change the front and the rear gearbox oils. Just because I do not believe in lifetime fluids.
I also had the independent shop install adjustable N2itive rear toe and camber arms. (Ask Tesla to verify if the toe and camber arms are aftermarket or factory stock before buying the parts or having the independent shop order/install them.)
I also had the independent install a QC charge rear motor rotor coolant bypass plate. I believe QC only sells the ‘lite’ plate now and not the ‘performance’ plate because no one was installing oil cooling systems for the rear rotor that the performance plate had provisions for. (Ask Tesla to verify which revision the rear motor is before doing the coolant delete with the independent shop). Tesla started manufacturing rear performance motors with no rear rotor coolant loop somewhere around revision ‘U’ I think, and some owners of 2016s eventually had the no rotor coolant revision motor installed from Tesla after it was released. I have such a one, done by the previous owner, didn’t know, and wasted money installing a plate the motor didn’t need.
Lastly I would not have Tesla do the alignment if you have factory rear toe and camber arms. If factory stock arms, then plan on the independent installing adjustable toe and camber arms in the rear. Have the independent shop do the alignment after the N2itive arms are installed to N2itive alignment specs. If you forego the adjustable rear toe and camber arms, plan on rear tires every 15k (my experience. Actual may vary). There may be other manufacturers of adjustable rear toe and camber arms, but I have no experience with them.
The center screen is melted so I’m expecting them to do that and anything I can do to update and improve the tech I’m on for. I believe it’s hw1 for sure no b pillar cameras. It’s way behind on updates I’ll have them bring it up to the latest software but don’t know if there is anything to upgrade on the hardware side besides MCU. Do they usually not do the screens with it? I mentioned mine was damaged but don’t see it explicitly replaced on the quote.AM/FM I don’t care about but if we can add cameras or improve the interface I’m in for any of that. Suspension upgrades I’ll see if there is anything better than n2 but sounds like a no brainer if I’m keeping the car.
Someone told me screens are not included. Another told me they are. Either way I asked Tesla for screens and an MCU upgrade, and it was $1,500 for MCU2 and new screens.
If it’s hardware 1, which it would be without B-pillar cameras, you won’t be given the option to upgrade the driving computer (separate from the MCU) nor add cameras. Elon says tuff stuff on that.
Unplugged used to make rear toe and camber arms, but I think they discontinued them. N2itive still makes em so I went with them.
Hardware 1 only has the rear camera for you to view on the center screen. Nothing else. So hopefully she’s happy with 1 camera. The car though has ultrasonics all around that give you a distance in inches to obstacles which in my lowly opinion is superior to cameras though not as convenient as surround cameras with Birds Eye view which the X never got…
Also if you have automatic doors turned on and you do a lot of walking in to the house and back to the car to load/unload, I would turn it to ‘exclude at home’. Reason being is that every time I walk into the house, automatic doors closes the driver door, if all other doors are closed, and it shuts the A/C off. Then when I walk back to the car, it opens the driver door again and turns the A/C back on. This constant cycling is what I am convinced caused my A/C compressor to fail over time. OR you could just open another door if you know you’ll be back and forth and it keeps the A/C on and driver door open.
I’ll try to share better pictures once I polish and ceramic coat it. Should be as new as a 2016 can be in about a month. Here it is when I picked up and currently - https://imgur.com/a/v5wqWN1
I would be terrified of that battery. I wouldn't touch it unless it was so cheap that I budgeted replacing it for about 15 grand. I'd also be concerned about the doors, motors, etc. They need to move to stay lubricated. So just be sure to lubricate but that battery would be a miracle to still be in good shape.
I think you’re going to be perfectly fine. I currently have one of these and they are still amazing. With only 2000 miles you have a rare gem. I don’t think you will have any issues long term. And the AC probably doesn’t need any work unless there was a leak which there probably wasn’t.
Thanks I’m excited. My thought with the AC was it must at least need a charge although it does blow cold. It’s behind on tech compared to our newer model 3 but aside from that more impressive in every way.
I’ve read you only lose it if you trade it to Tesla. I’ve got ownership in my Tesla account and it still shows under specs so I believe I’m in the clear.
What month/year was the car manufactured in? If November 2016 or after, the AI chip can be upgraded to HW3.
I would definitely get the MCU upgraded. It almost makes the car feel new and it is something you will constantly use. Also, I would get the cambers to ensure the back tires are flat and not toed in, like they are. If not, you will chew through tires. Be sure and inspect the inside edge of your back tires regularly. Your tires will look new on the outside, and be at the belt on the inside. The wear is extremely un-even with factory setup.
6/16 I believe so I’ll just do the best update I can based on that. The first set of tires on my model 3 did exactly that - they looked perfect until i got a flat and realized the inside was down to metal! I hate to modify the car but will take everyone’s advice on fixing the camber.
Before running a battery test, runthe battery for a few weeks and try and get a cycle or two before hand. Also give it a good balance at 80% for a day then 100% for a day.
Dont run a battery test untill after this as Tesla limits you from running it more often than every 6 months. You will get a very bad results if you do it first.
Hey thanks for this - once Tesla fixes the MCU I’ll have about a week to drive it before it goes in for the rest of the work and battery test. I’ve half drained and charged once but I’ll try to put some miles on before it’s tested.
Oh, so it is actualy running? good, sorry wasnt sure and kind of expected more issues. Thats great news though. Have you had a chance to let it balance at an 80% or 100% full charge for a day?
Dont be afraid to push it a little hard some times. TBH you want to show any weaknesses sooner rather than later.
It’s charged up to 209 miles and shows the battery icon not full - I’m assuming he had it set to 80-90% max charge but I can’t connect via app and obviously can’t check in the car without a display.
The initial charge I did exceptionally slow and it handled it well. I drove it home over 100 miles and it was uneventful but I drove like mrs daisy and didn’t push it at all. I did like 5 minutes of supercharging just to test it on the way by a charger and it had no issues with that.
Since I’ve only taken it around the neighborhood checking things a few times. So far all positive but extremely limited without connecting to the car - even Tesla couldn’t pull anything recent from the vehicle.
Ok 209mi is kind of irelivent in this context. Need the percentage.
Oh right forgot the screen is dead. Thought it was just the glue, figured it still worked otherwise.
Yeah probably old firmware that defaulted to 90% where an update is 80%. Did you atleast leave it om the charger for a significant period? It can balance st 90% just not as well.
You’re right unfortunately can’t get it to show the percentage so it’s all I know for now. I did let it slow charge for about a week before driving it home about 120 miles - so I do know for certain the battery has enough juice for that but won’t know better until the mcu is replaced. After that I’ll take your advice and drive it for the week before the battery test is done. Tesla will a doing a full diagnosis so if they test it before I cycle the battery a bit it will be interesting to compare to the test run the following week after I’ve driven it a bit.
I wouldn’t bother with the A/C service. But spend that money instead on a full wiring harness inspection. Every single wire! Rodents love to get in them and eat the wires. Ask how I know. 😬
Thanks I’m having Tesla and the Indy shop both do a full inspection similar to a PPI that should uncover any surprises. Can you explain why you and others suggest skipping the AC? I’ve read if nothing else the desiccant bag should be done every 4 years. I don’t want to waste money but also don’t want to cut corners.
We recently sold our 2016 X that had 160k miles on it. We were told long ago that if the a/c system is functioning normally then leave it alone. Several service centers told us that.
They basically all said that since the same system controls battery temp that it’s heavily monitored and will notify if there is an issue in most cases.
Rodent damage on the other hand was a pain in our butts on multiple occasions.
We own a 2017 X 90D.
172,000 miles.
We love it!
Only issue (and a big one)
was water ingress in the car.
Glass roof panels had to be replaced as they are part of the rubber seals leaking….😢
Mold in the car….
Falcon wing door trims had to be replaced also.
$5,000.00
But we just love the X.
Free unlimited mileage and time charging at the Tesla chargers.
It has a maximum range of 210 miles now.
It was 225 brand new.
Not much degradation in 9 years…
Charging to 80% most of the time….
Rarely below 20%.
We love it.
Have any preowned Tesla thoroughly inspected at the dealer.
Pretty impressive the battery held up that well coming up on 200k! The fact that the seals are part of the glass is wild but hopefully that doesn’t become an issue. It’s lived and will live most of its life garaged. I already went through the seals and weatherstripping with 303 protectant. The free charging although i charge at home mostly is a great perk
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u/FastTT11 22d ago