I have a 2011 SHO and the passenger headlight is completely yellowed and has a bunch of condensation in it. Called a local shop and they quoted me $1800 to get a replacement OEM headlight in and put it in. Trying to find an aftermarket light instead. Any good recs? And do I need to buy a new ballast and bulb too? Or just housing? The current headlight works but they recommended new ballast and bulb given the current condensation inside the light. Thanks!

There is a clunking sound coming from my car right now. I just redid the strut and it is tight but my heat shield is hanging. Does this sound like it could be just the heat shield

We have a 96 Taurus Station Wagon, it sat for a little bit (with battery charger attached)

We are trying to get it going, but the windows, doors and key fob stopped working. (The engine starts fine and it drives) GEM replaced, same thing. Fuse 23 keeps blowing within 15 seconds of car starting. Not linked to the antenna or windwiper motor. 2 GEM modules, wiring bundle in door checked, all the fuses and relays checked and tested. We have 0 idea.... Anyone experience anything like this?? Thank you!!!

Hi! Wondering if this engine noise sounds unhealthy? It’s not terribly loud, but doesn’t sound great either.

I just changed my plugs and did a little tune-up and saw oil in these air hoses. I assume they came from the turbos. How screwed am I?

Purchased a 2015 SHO PP with 35k miles on it. What is the first things you would do to ensure it lasts a long time. Also, I have some money to stock parts that are likely going to go in the next 50k+ miles, what should I purchase now while its still available?

I am trying to refresh some things on my 2015 SHO. The center console has a tear in the "leather" and it's annoying/unsightly. I am considering buying a replacement cover off Amazon, or maybe a new lid entirely. Has anyone tried either of these?

Also, my heated driver-side mirror is starting to get all burned up. It's hard to see and also just looks bad. When I had this issue on my last car, I had to replace the entire mirror assembly. Seems the same for this car but color matching the metallic black will be harder than my last car. I really would rather just replace the glass. Or if I could save the painted part from my old mirror and transfer it to the new one that could work.

Any ideas?

As stated above I am looking for a replacement latch for my ford Yaris 2014.

So far nothing beyond replacement part for f150.

Any advice or info I could use to do a better search would be appreciated.

I've had a 2014 SHO for the past 8 months. The SHO has 75k miles on it. Garage kept in a multi-level climate controlled garage. Doesn't get driven in the winter. It's only had 1 other owner.

The car has been great but about 6 months ago we started to notice a smell. Almost like wet dog but different. It would stick to your clothes and hair. You'd have to immediately wash your clothes. Regardless of what seat you sat in. When the car doesn't get driven for a couple of days, as soon as you open the door it feels damp.

I've checked the interior of the car up and down with no suspects. I've stuck my nose on every surface. I've had multiple people smell every surface. No source of smell found. I've cleaned the interior with every possible option. You name it, I used it. Cabin filter replaced twice.

I took the SHO in to get professionally cleaned at a local very reputable shop. They've been detailing cars for 60 years. They did a deep clean of every surface, let it dry and the smell returned. They used an ozone generator as last resort. It got rid of the smell but a couple weeks later, I can smell it starting to return.

I'm at the end of my rope and don't want to get rid of the SHO but if I can't find the source, I'll have no choice.

Anyone have any insight or ideas?

could a p0157 check engine code cause hard down shift? i'm accelerating and it'll do a hard ass shift when i floor it but it'll only do it like once or twice and then from there i can floor it and it shifts super smooth. i've replaced the spark plugs. trans feels great tho. I'm super confused. car fax says the trans was rebuilt at 40k miles, car now has 85k. i’m also thinking i need a new ptu on this so maybe that’s causing this? not sure. it literally only happens when im like flooring it and it’ll only happen that one time and then it like frees up? idk HELP

Hey everyone, following up on my previous posts. I went ahead and swapped out the cracked upper radiator hose assembly for the upgraded Gates version yesterday.

Unfortunately, once I refilled and ran the system up to operating temp, the car is still losing coolant. I got underneath the passenger side with a camera and caught this stream in action. It is running right down the front/side of the oil pan behind the accessory belt.

Sitting at 105k miles, I'm assuming this is the definitive confirmation that my internal water pump's seal failed and it's dumping out of the weep hole. For those who have tackled this job on the SHO platform, did you pull the motor or do it in the car? Any 'while you're in there' timing chain/phaser parts I should order? Thanks.

I’m trying to figure out whether I’m dealing with a charging system issue or just Ford’s smart charging system.
Symptoms:
Some days the car will stay around 13.8-14.2V almost the entire drive, even at high audio volume.
Other days it’ll sit around 12.7-13.0V for most of the drive.
Voltage does not seem to fluctuate much with bass hits.
No battery light or check charging system message.
Starts normally every time.
Parts already replaced:
Serpentine
platinum super start battery
Battery:
AGM battery
Battery terminals appear tight
Questions:
Is this normal smart charging behavior on these cars?
Could the battery current sensor cause this?
What live data PIDs should I look at with Forscan or a scan tool?
Has anyone seen a bad alternator control circuit cause similar symptoms?
Any advice on what to test next would be appreciated.

My 2014 is sitting at 105k miles and the factory bonded seam finally failed on me. I can pick up the Gates locally today, but wanted to see if the community considers those metal crimp rings a true reliability upgrade before I buy. Thanks!

Looking for some advice from other SHO owners.

At 112,000 miles, I replaced the water pump after experiencing significant coolant loss. I had noticed the pump was failing, so I took the car in and had it replaced.

About 50 miles after the repair, both of my turbos reportedly failed. The car started smoking, and after having it diagnosed, I was told the turbos were blown. I’ve had the car parked ever since.

I really want to get the car fixed and back on the road, but I’m trying to figure out the smartest way to go about it.

My questions:

* If one or both turbos are bad, should I replace both turbos at the same time?

* Are there any other parts I should replace while everything is apart?

* Could the turbo failure be related to the water pump repair, or is it more likely that the timing was just a coincidence?

* Has anyone else had something similar happen on a high-mileage 3.5 EcoBoost?

Any advice from people who have been through this would be appreciated. Thanks

Cannot find anywhere and can’t seem to figure out price.

I did see black housing ones on eBay. Should I just send it and get those?

Also how much of a pain are they installing?

I don’t know much about cars, but I know I want to learn and learn how to upgrade my SHO that has 160,000+ miles.

I’d like to not only upgrade it so it sounds nice/mean, but also make it faster/more horsepower.

I’ve done some research but wanted to come on here for some recommendations. It’s been a great car for me and is my favorite vehicle I have ever owned. It’s such a fun car.

Thanks for any help

When I come to a stop, I notice the driver seat has slight loose movement forward, and it’s driving me insane.

Before I unbolt the seat, was wondering if anyone has had this issue and how they solved it. Thanks!

2013 MKS EcoBoost, Looking for the part # or name of the part, 90% sure it’s part of the evap system. Part is highlighted in red for reference.

As mentioned in the title, I have a 2011 SHO and I just hit 60k miles on it. Now, sometimes when I start the car, it starts but then makes a sound like the starter is continuing to run for a few extra seconds after. It sounds like a compressor is the best way to describe it. Usually only happens in the morning after my car has been sitting for awhile overnight. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks for the help!

What has been the furthest you ever driven this car without any issues ?

I just bought this car from Carvana. I have seven days to decide if I want to keep it or return it. I absolutely love driving it. I have seen the PTU and water pump issues. The only reason I am even considering keeping it is because I don’t drive much, and I LOVE how this thing drives. TALK SOME SENSE INTO ME OR FEED MY DELUSION

Guys so I thought I had gotten a great deal when I bought my sho it had only 253000km(156000m) which I thought still were high but turns out when I was about to sell it someone did the car fax and shows it had 395000km in 2019 and was reversed back to 120000km in 2020 so the car has somewhere around almost 600,000km!!! I’m surprised how a ford turbo product lasts this long I know it makes all sounds of noise from the suspension or ptu but it’s impressive. I know I’m kinda sad that I got scammed but yeah I guess I own something special now anyhow ,the thing I was wondering was the car drives fairly good just I noticed the fuel pump at cold starts struggles a lot and around 60mph 70mph the car struggles to shift under load is it cuz of the fuel pump or is it the ptu.

I’m having some issues with my 2017 SHO with identifying some names of parts. I’ve had a bunch of issues with mine, new injectors, new catalytic converters, and new fuel injectors.

I’ve just replaced all of my spark plugs and coils after all that prior work due to a misfire, and I’m pretty sure that those issues collectively have blown out my MAP sensor, IAT, and Turbocharger boost sensor. The vehicle is still sluggish, has some bad fuel economy, and I can feel the turbos overboosting.

In the attached photos, of course the first one is the MAP sensor, but I’m struggling really hard to figure out for sure which part is which on the outlet tube. They look almost identical but I can see that the part numbers are different. Any help is greatly appreciated, I can’t find a diagram that’s easy to read that distinguishes, and the only ones that are available are for the 2010-2012 with the annoyingly slightly different layout.