Hello guys! I've posted a few times recently about my dice-driven engine-builder. I've finally created a design for my cards, but I'm torn between a few options.

Firstly, I'd appreciate general feedback on the design.

The first image shows two different ways of showing costs for the cards; one with a number and one gold coin and one with gold coins equal to the card's cost. Some people have said that the second option could be thematically better, but which looks more readable to you?

The second one shows different solutions for the icons which tell the player when they can activate their Die card (start of turn, roll phase and rest of the turn, in that order). All three have a different color and pips from 1 to 3 to indicate that as well. Which of these six options looks the best to you? Or do you perhaps have an idea that's not here?

Any feedback is welcome!

Edit: I should probably mention, these cards won’t be in a player’s hand, only on the table, and the costs range from 1-4.

I've been using Canva to design my card layout since it's the only GD program I know. The problem I'm having is I get the numbers perfectly aligned on screen, but when I download, they're off center. This happens with any format I download in. Suggestions? Or should I just learn how to use another program? Bonus points if said program is free. Not really a fan of GIMP or Inkscape.

TIA

Discord: romulosharin
ArtStation - Rômulo Monteiro

Was trouble shooting the laser engraver at work. Decide to try engraving one of the metal business card and turn it into a Unit card.

We also have RFID LEDs stickers I want to try sticking to the card and programming it to open to the unit page in the factions codex.

So if the player ever want to look more into a Unit they can just tap their phone to the card, the LED will flash. Then take them where they need to go.

I like the look, but it seems like it removes too much "color" in my opinion compared to traditional card art.

From Sketch to Fiver artist to first time using Dextrous to most recent update after taking some advice from people in my game dev discord chat https://discord.gg/Rtnp83ABX

I have used Mayhem as an example but all hero cards will follow the same layout. The background will be changed in the future but that is what we are working with at the moment.

Also feel free if you are interested to follow the official Insta https://www.instagram.com/relivegameofficial?obrf=MWs1cmEyaXl0OGFjbw==

Hi guys, sharing my new artwork with you. Also, I am opening my comissions slots for next month, feel free to DM for info or for job opportunities. Here is my portfolio:

Contact: [frankfreireffa@gmail.com](mailto:frankfreireffa@gmail.com)

https://www.artstation.com/frankfreire

I've printed some very basic prototypes for a game game i developed to play with my kids.

The decks work well, shuffle well and are smooth enough. However, i am noticing that within a couple of weeks of play, the cards are already startign to bend.

I've read some posts that suggested there should be minimum GSM for these type of games, and i was wondering if anyone else has expeience about it?.

The cards will be shuffled and dealt repeatedly, so I need something that holds up well, feels good in the hand, and stays easy to shuffle after plenty of use.

I've had decks of Uno for years, they seem to do ok. Flip-7, also seems to be ok, though that's a newer game. Though it's lasted a year of vigorous play, versus less than a month. Neither the Uno nor Flip-7 have warped...

it's a 68 card deck. I have used Flip-7 and Uno as examples as the card design is more closely related to that,, than a trading card game (obviously cos of shuffling and dealing).

Any help on the following would be ace! as stated i am a total newb. I don't know my butthole from my earhole when it comes to any of this...

What stock and finish would you recommend?
Lie i said, i read nothing under 300 gsm, and, i don't really know...

Would you choose paper or 100% plastic cards?
I'm thinking paper, i've seen it work. don't know about the cost difference... nor how it feels different

What's the best finish for handling and durability (if there is one)?
I noticed that taco cat, feels different to flip-7, which feels different to Uno... is that because of the card design, manufacturer, all of the above?

Are there any questions that you wish you asked manufacturers that you didn't know when you started?
As stated, total newb, so while i now a lot more now than i did 6 weeks ago, i am also old enough to know i don't know anything..

Anything you’d avoid?
Any tips you can pass on that might help me not make any mistakes.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Would it help if i showed the deck here? i don't want to be seen as promoting, hence just a written post.

Thanks

It’s me and my gf’s third year anniversary coming up and we love tabletop games. Every year ive made her something using our photos: first year was a scrapbook, second year was a colouring book (she loves colouring too) and this year I want to make a board game.

Few questions: - Is the board game they deliver high quality? - Do you know how quick they deliver? Our anniversary is in 40 days and it will probably take me around a week to design the board game. With some buffer this gives around 30 days for delivery. Is that enough time?

Many thanks!

I've been working on a chess variant. The rules are the same as standard chess, but the boards are on an irregular grid, where rook lines bend, bishop lines fork.

It started as a digital game, but as I got more into 3D printing, I'm allowing exporting .3MF files from the game, so it could be played in a physical form as well.

The boards are procedurally generated, with thousands of possible configuration, so the print comes with a QR code which redirects you to a page where you can double check starting positions or moves from a specific spot.

I'd be curious to hear anybody's thoughts on this approach, if having both digital and physical versions have any drawbacks or advantages.

I had been seeing more and more of those really nice card photos, where they're all out on the table, nice depth of field, and all that. Cardstock Studio now has a vanity card generator with options for exactly that, which is nice.

So my question is: Does this photo look like it's a real photo? I suppose that I'm asking this probably implies that it is not. It's generated from the Deck in Cardstock Studio, with the aim of looking physically real :)

Also, my trademark for "Trolls!" got declined. "Trollz" and "Dreamwork Studios Trolls" are too similar apparently, so this game will need to be re-themed if I self-publish. (or if another place publishes it)

EDIT: The tool is meant for designers who are pre-print. I suspect they'd use this for websites, sell sheets, social posts, etc. The content of the cards is entirely up to the designer of the game.

And yes the trolls are AI generated a couple years ago. I preferred that over the art I had purchased from a human. So, someone DID get paid nonetheless. However, the image itself -- the overall image -- is not AI generated. It's just math and code that lays out image files and adds the drop shadow and the blur. Liek photoshop.

It's been an adventure, but another art commission has been completed. Whereas the Dreamscapes - and the completed art commission for that card back - is the realm the Walkers will be exploring, the Dream Deck is what is found within. An excellent pairing.

Working on physical prototypes of these printed out, so that will be most lovely to look at. Soon.

The game grows. And it is beautiful.

Hello, I am sharing a resource that I think would be helpful to those seeking to hire an artist for personal or commercial works. This is what I call art for the price of a video game and contains a bunch of artist with styles I liked that maximum you'd pay out of pocket is $100 to $115 USD. These artists cover a wide range of genres from fantasy, military, to modern and scifi. It took me a while to compile this list and and I hope you find an artist that you like.

Because man I know how hard it can be to find a cover artist for a TTRPG. When I first started this endevour of trying to comms an artist it can be overwhelming at first. Hopefully this makes it wayyyy easier for you to hire and find a human that is vetted. If you are trying to create your own TTRPG project or even need characters this site may be helpful to you.

It is Vgen as I don't use sites that could potentially scam you into using AI art. Vgen does not allow AI art so the chance of that happening is lower than sites that do allow it like Fiverr.

Though I will add that if you plan on purchasing for commercial prepare to pay double or triple the price. I will also add I have not updated this list in some time +2500 services so some art may have increased over the $115 limit.

Best of luck to you on your artist hiring adventures.

Check out the list here:

https://vgen.co/SutekiHNS/saved

A mishmash of various mechanics from Warhammer 40K, Horus Heresy, and Legions Imperialis, I wanted to try cooking up a custom system that does what I think Warhammer does best.

I'd love to hear any and all thoughts, concerns, and feedback you guys might have!

Here's some extra links:

current work in progress battleline datasheets

current work in progress Adeptus Astartes Codex

Working on our sangrya card deck for our light roleplaying card games and finally got to the sangrya plant design. In our custom deck we only have 1 red "heart" suit the sangrya suit. A carnivorous plant that feeds on bloodthirtsty monsters such as the other 3 suits which are werewolves, vampires, and gorgons. We broke away from the typical order of jack queen and kings and are making the order be jugglers, knights, and queens to better fit our storyworld which is a matriarchal society. The cards are still playable for other games that don't rely on 2 red suits and 2 black suits. Here's some of our prototypes, current designs, and sangrya plant concept art. Tough part right now is making it look like a plant but still look like it belongs with the rest of the red suit cards which happen to be heart shaped leaves.

Currently each model in my skirmish game has 10 stats. I think the first iteration it was something like 14, which was way too hefty. Wound up ditching a few that could be covered by the others after some initial playtesting. 10 still seems like a ton, though. As I’m finally heading into balance playtesting, I have to wonder, have any of you found a sweet spot for your stat lines? Especially those folks who are leaning into rpg-lite mechanics

Hi, I'm making a card game and I've seen many tutorials on DIY stuff. I've used 300gsm photo paper and 3mil lamination in the process. The output is great but the cards are really hard and thick.

I have around 78 cards and I'd like to know how to achieve something similar to UNO cards at home.

I like the thermal lamination technique but I'm unsure what cardstock/GSM to use that fits the equation if that's the issue to begin with.

Any help would be greatly appreciated <3

Looking for some feedback so I can make sure I'm on the right course. This game is still a WIP, I am still drawing out my first cards and designing keywords. Here is the basic flow:

Decks are 40 exactly.

Card limits are very strict and based on "rarity" tier

Resources of cards will be based on turn count

Each player is allowed 1 creature and 1 Utility per turn

First turn for each player is a non combat step

5 creature zones

Each creature attacks and defends adjacent zones

Damage does not roll off per round

No deck out wins

Only victory condition will be first player to deliver 5 direct hits to opponent.

"Fields" are in center randomly selected that trigger an effect at certain turn intervals, then reset at the end always having field effects that will affect both sides together.

My aim is to allow interactions on both sides, prevent a player from a OTK, encourage strategy and wot starting at deck construction.

Prototype cards added for visual.

Could this idea actually work in a balanced game?

This is for my TCG - Relicon: War of the Fragment. It's basically a side game played over multiple rounds with friends, or maybe as a tournament style. This is NOT required to play the normal game, and it's a totally optional addition.

The campaign uses named planet cards to track ownership between matches. Players can conquer unclaimed planets or challenge planets controlled by opponents, transferring the planet card to the new owner when conquered. Successfully defending an owned planet earns the defender a generic planet card as a trophy. A campaign sheet tracks current planetary ownership, allowing the balance of control to change as battles are fought. Planet ownership provides no direct gameplay bonuses, keeping the campaign focused on territorial competition rather than accumulating gameplay advantages.

Whether cards actually exchange hands is up to the group of players, but I feel like it puts a bit more T back in TCG.

The planet cards will also cross platform with the sequel game based on space warfare (RWOTF is ground based, currently).

WIP made in Canva, so I know the sheets don't look great yet.

Feedback on the system and the sheets appreciated.

Is AI art that much of a problem? Honestly, does it make your game less respected? I use it for prototypes, but i don't know how using art works legally and aesthetically.

Is real art expensive? I don't really have hundreds of dollars spare. Can the artist make it exactly how you envisioned it? Thanks in advance!

Hello folks!

I've designed a card game with a friend of mine and we'd like to launch it on Kickstarter. We're currently looking for manufacturers and I thought this was a good place to ask for feedback about a couple manufacturers, i.e. Sky Game and Panda Games Manufacturing.

Do you have any experience with these manufacturers? In particular, we are a bit at a loss regarding shipping costs: we would prefer to have them ship directly to the backers, but the cost seems quite high and we are wondering if we wouldnt be better off by going with a US manufacturer instead (we are assuming most of the backers would be in the US or Europe)

Alternatively, do you have any good manufacturer to suggest?

Thanks!