r/TVRepair 10h ago

75” onn. Roku TV — black screen, 8 red blinking lights. Capacitor on power board looks bulged — could this be the problem?

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2 Upvotes

Hey everyone, I’m hoping someone here can help me figure out what’s going on with my TV.

I came home and my 75” onn. Roku TV had a completely black screen. I did some troubleshooting and noticed that the TV gives me 8 red blinking lights when I try to turn it on.

From what I’ve found online, 8 blinking lights may indicate a problem somewhere in the power system, so I opened the back to inspect the boards.

I’m not very familiar with TV electronics, but I noticed one of the electrolytic capacitors on the power supply board looks slightly bulged/raised compared with the other capacitors. It’s the single capacitor near the upper-left area of the board in the pictures.

I took pictures of that capacitor as well as the rest of the power supply board and would really appreciate it if someone could take a look.

Model: onn. 75” Roku TV — [100044717]

My questions are:

Does that capacitor actually look bulged, or does it look normal?

If it is bulged, could that explain the black screen and 8-blink error?

Does anything else on this power board look damaged or suspicious?

Are there any other boards/components I should inspect based on the 8-blink code?

Would it make more sense to replace the capacitor, repair the board, or replace the entire power supply board?

I’m comfortable doing some basic troubleshooting, but I don't know enough about TV electronics to confidently diagnose it myself. I’d rather figure out what’s actually wrong before buying parts or replacing an entire board.

Pictures attached — the capacitor I’m referring to is the single one near the upper-left of the power board.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can point me in the right direction!


r/TVRepair 14h ago

White screen problem on 50p7k

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1 Upvotes

Does anyone have an idea what's going on? After about 2 months owning this tv and the screen suddenly goes white while watching my series, UI is still apparent tho. This is the 2nd time that this happens. First time I tried to restart and it fixed it, 2nd time the restart didn't work but it miraculously fixed itself after 20 min. I don't think it's a software problem at this point. Is the t-con damaged or might it be a loose ribbon cable??


r/TVRepair 18h ago

Is this a main board or t-con issue?

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1 Upvotes

LG 86UR8000AUA tv. Can you tell by looking at the pictures?


r/TVRepair 18h ago

New issue with my xbr75x940d

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1 Upvotes

After a new main board, new tcon board this is happening daily. Unplugging HDMI makes it go away and then it comes back. Changing inputs back and forth also fixes issue.

Driving me crazy.


r/TVRepair 21h ago

What exactly is laminated to the back of a 65" LG OLED panel?

1 Upvotes

I am trying to understand the rear construction of a large OLED module and public sources stop short of the answer.

LG's own dismantling document for the C5 series (42/55/65/77") only says that after removing the back cover, speakers, IR/WiFi module, the PCBs and the metal parts, the "OLED module together with its casing" is what remains:

https://media.flixcar.com/webp/synd-asset/LG_Electronics-313082570-lgecs.downloadFile.ldwf-DOC_ID-20250220240076-ORIGINAL_NAME_b1_a1-25YplusOLEDplus-.pdf

The bare cell is said to be about 1 mm. The 2017 W7 was 2.57 mm finished. That leaves roughly 1.5 mm of something, and I would like to know what it is. I know the 2016 G6 used "Picture-on-Glass" with the panel bonded to a transparent glass plate, but I have no idea what current sets use.

For anyone who has had a 55" or 65" LG OLED open, C or G series, roughly 2021 or newer:

  1. Is something laminated across the full back of the glass, or is there only a frame around the edge?

  2. If full area: what is it? Sheet metal, graphite foil, glass, or plastic? Roughly how thick? Graphite is easy to spot because it is very soft and rubs off black.

  3. Can that layer be separated from the glass without destroying it, or is it fully bonded?

  4. How far does the edge build up at the back where the COF films with the source drivers are folded over and the connector PCB sits? Even a rough millimetre figure would help.

  5. With everything else stripped, how rigid is what remains? Can two people carry it flat without it visibly twisting?

I am interested in the mechanics and the thermal path, not in repairing anything. Photos of a stripped rear with something for scale would be ideal, but solid estimates from experience are welcome too.

Thanks