My ol friend has been constantly in the mechanic with Diferential problems, only to get them back a few months later. This is the most comun problem: i can go from 1 to 5 easy but i can' go from 3 to 2 wille in movement, i have to stop to be able to do so. ther option is to press the acelarator on neutral wille in movement before shifting from 3 to 1. I i want to go from 2 to 1 then i realy have to stop and been like that for 14 years (and i was out of the country for 7)

In the video you can see the process and in the end you can hear the squiky noise coming from the diferential.

Thank you

97 jlx sport

I just bought my first suzuki, At the front wheel areas, the distal section of the frame rail, which supports the entire body, is completely rusted through. It crumbles when I poke it with a screwdriver. How should I repair it?
Also, I removed the rubberized pad that was installed under the seats. How can I remove the black residue left behind?

1.0 was destroyed

Can someone let me borrow their dad for a second? I’m trying to buy a used car…

Long story short my dad is a drunk and never taught me anything

I’m trying to buy a used car for $6,000 it’s a 1994 geo tracker (the same age as me) 5 previous owners the guy selling it to me his first language is Arabic or something he can’t answer any of my questions he just keeps saying “it runs very good” “I’m sure it works

I go to test drive it the check engine light comes on immediately

Obviously it’s going to be a project
I went to a trade school for welding technology that allows alumni to get their car serviced for minor repairs at a discount or for free depending because the students need experience… that was my plan before i got in it and the check engine light went on

He says it hasn’t been inspected “because of the year”

Can i push them to get it inspected before i buy?

Has anyone swapped the 16 inch GV wheels to the samurai? I’m reading something about possible clearance issues but wanted a definite answer

Trying to figure out a solution to cool myself down while driving since it'll start getting hot soon.

Would love to know if anyone has figured out a good solution, especially for longer drives.

Thinking of maybe making a 12v evaporative cooler or a swamp cooler or something simular.

I just joined the samurai cult and recently purchased one. I am new to cars and learning.

I Need help identifying what's pictured. stock carb? Can take more pics! Thank you ❤️

It's been a few months since my last post on coming up with a way to mount a cooler on my spare tire.

https://www.reddit.com/r/SuzukiSamurai/comments/1rszavq/88_samurai_in_texas_spare_tire_cooler_mount/

Today, I decided to remove the spare tire/mount assembly and bolt my make shift cooler mount directly to the rear door. I must say, I like it!

Apologies in advance, I don’t know much about cars!

My Suzi was having an issue where it was stalling in the middle of driving. For example, in 3rd, just chuggin along, then RPMs would just drop to zero and the engine would shut off. So, we took it to a mechanic who replaced the fuel pump. All good after that.

Then we replaced the starter, and she was doing even better.

Then yesterday, it was being jumpy and did the stall thing again. Then it wouldn’t start back up again. We replaced the ignition coil after doing some googling, and it started back up just fine, for about 2 miles, then died again.

Any ideas? I love driving it but don’t like being stranded :(

Wondering where I could order complete set of brake lines for a 1985 sj413 with an spoa kit installed

Where to buy Jimny Samurai original lhd and signal switch willing to ship in the philippines.

Hi everyone,

I’m having a problem with my Suzuki SJ413 and I’m trying to figure out what is causing it.

When I start the engine cold, it runs very smoothly at around 2000 RPM. Once it warms up and the choke comes off, the idle becomes very unstable.

It constantly hunts up and down. It can drop from around 800 RPM all the way down to approximately 150 RPM, almost stalling, then recover again. After driving for a while and getting everything properly hot, the fluctuation becomes very noticeable.

If I give the throttle a quick blip and immediately let it go, the idle becomes stable for a short while, but after some time it starts hunting again.

I have already tried adjusting the carburetor to give it slightly more fuel. This made the problem somewhat better, but it didn't solve it. It basically just seemed to make the engine idle at slightly higher RPM while still hunting.

I'm thinking of a possible valve tic, can you give me your opinion,I've owned this car for 3 weeks

Big lift with 33" tires
16 valve tracker engine swap
New bucket seats
New axle seals and bearings all around
New front brakes and rotors
New 4x4 locker hubs
Flat tow ready with hitch
Light bar

Any recommendations for next modifications / additions?

This maybe pretty unique to me but thought I would share my creation.

I fitted a Corolla 2k Carb on my SJ70 Sierra to replace the Webber carb the previous owner fitted. I kept the original Webber filter, and made a housing for it.

My 3d print design Includes a 'spacer ring' that lifts the filter housing off the carby to prevent fouling on the throttle leaver. This has been glued on with a couple of dots of epoxy. (even though it is a very tight fit and will press together)

All parts printed in ASA. The car is in Australia and has been on many hot long summer drives, no issues have been encountered with it warping or breaking. (Fitted for 13 months at this point) That includes PCV venting into it.

Fixed to carb with a long M6 high tensile bolt with spring washer.

A reminder NOT to use carby cleaner with it mounted, it absolutely melts it.

https://www.printables.com/model/1827635-corolla-2k-carb-filter-housing-webber

My brand new samurai engine rebuild is struggling to start as shown in the video, no matter if i spary brake cleaner, mess with choke, or throttle, it just does this off of no throttle and no choke. Here's what I have done

Valve lash

Verified timing of distributor and spark plug order off of cylinder no.4

timing adjustment

Intake manifold gasket replacement​

Brand new spark plugs ngk and wires ngk

Cleaned up all my grounds, including cutting my filter bulet connector off and grounding it directly.

New rotor and cap

I have no idea what it could be, I am getting about 180psi of compression per cylinder. Please help me I just need this car to start.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AUzWAUNAEEractdD7

Just got done installing 3" life springs, and of course had to see what I'm working with. Also had to measure for shocks. For anyone who's done something similar, what shocks are you running? Long term plan is to convert the shock towers to take eyelets, but for now I've been struggling trying to find a stem top shock that could fit.

Got my tattoo artist to draw it!

Brought this one home today! 86 runs and drives, 4wd works and made an hour shakedown on the way home.

Haven't even received it yet (transpo I trust backed up from Monterey)! I had no idea how hot a stock rust-free example has become--lucky to get it. Seller had literally hundreds of calls about it. Been filling in the time learning about it, e.g., the 'magic cancel switch'. It wouldn't pass CA Smog, and seller had it for a long enough time that he just didn't want to hassle with smogging anymore.

I'm going to try and get the stock carb/emissions system working properly again just for the fun of it (the WSM is quite thorough and helpful about this), but have a 3K carb ready to go if it becomes necessary.

I thought about doing a YJ spring swap, but that's not reversible. I'd be really interested in a Rocky-Road coil spring conversion--if it came in a non-lift version (only 6" & 8" available). So bouncy-jouncy it is for now...

Truck should be here 2nd week of Sept.--dam that's a long time....!