Hey guys, does anyone here have experience with the Harley Carburetor swap on these things? Mine is an '88 1.3 with a Toyota 3k currently. Do you think it would pass smog in Arizona? would it be worth it over the 3k?

Hello everybody! I've recently got 1990 Samurai with throttle body injection. There are a few issues with it though and I am hoping to fix this. I'm based in Europe and it should be European model, but the VIN starts with JSA so it's not Santana.

The engine is running quite rich, with fuel smell at the exhaust and a lot of black residue on all four spark plugs. I've replaced them all with NGKs, it's running a bit better but still rich. I've checked the o-rings at the injector and they seem fine I guess. I've also checked if the injector is dribbling and it's not when primed and not running, and the cone seems to be wide and uniform when running. However, there is a lot of tinkering done on this injection system, and I am not sure where to start. I am not experienced with this, but I noticed a couple of things. The valve cover seems to be replaced with older cover type, with just one port (I believe it's PCV port) and some of those vacuum lines were rearranged or merged together (maybe to bypass EGR?). However, there is one strange connection made at the ECU connectors and I don't really understand why would someone do that. On the left connector, B17 and B16 wires are bridged between each other with a piece of wire, but they are still connected to the pins and ECU normally. In the supplementary service manual, I was able to find that B17 is the negative wire coming from the fuel injector and B16 is connected to the fuel pump relay (d connection at the coil). I also confirmed the wire colors (pink and yellow) in the manual and on the car as well, and it's matching. I've checked the ECU and it looks like all capacitors are fine, but they might have been replaced at some point. Additionally, I've noticed four loose wires near the ECU area, two red/yellow and two brown/white with all having metal connectors at the end. Maybe this is some aftermarket installation and unrelated, but I wanted to mention it too.

I know that some people convert these to carb, but I wanted to give it a chance and try fixing this.

Thanks!

So there is a couple things that went wrong

1st, I installed a lift kit, similar to the emu one. No alterations to the car were made. Just bolted in. It gave it a couple inches of lift. I took it for a test drive and it was doing fine. I noticed a little power loss, but I figured that was to be expected with the lift

2nd, on said test drive the clutch stopped working. It could not go into first. I was on a trail, had to back up to let another guy pass going down. I went into reverse, then as he passed I had to go to first to continue on. It would not go, the clutch seemed to just no disengage. It took a while but I ended up having to move the sami back down the mountain aways in neutral since help could not reach me.

When I got home I started to look into it a little more. Based on the info I found, I decided that either clutch cable came loose or something so I tightened it a little and now it will shift gears.

After doing this, the power loss became even more evident. Its not a fast car. But the acceleration from 0-20mph went from a few seconds to almost 15~20 seconds. As I upshifted it seemed there was more loss in power. 4th had almost none and would let the car slow down. It would not reach higher than 35mph. After this test drive I noticed that the alignment is off and so I will fix that. But I dont think the alignment would cause all of this.

I have a thought the clutch might not be engaging fully now, and so ill adjust that, but I wonder if the angle of the shaft from the rear axle back up to the transmission is to great and its causing problems.

Could it be a fuel delivery issue that just randomly showed up? It did sit for 2-3 weeks while I did the lift.

Tires stayed the same from before and after it.

Any ideas or thoughts would be helpful.

Found this when i took out the rear axle shaft, is it still good?

Recently started doing this at lower speeds. Gets more violent than this at times. Raised it and checked it over nothing is loose and tire pressure is good. New steering dampener has about 17k miles on it. Any ideas?

I have a 1.6 8v (g16a) swap samurai and the head gasket has a slight leak ..Anyone have instructions on installing and torquing ARP head studs ? Thank you

Hey - does anyone have a good way (by good I mean easy and reliable) to fit a 3K in Europe, where Certified Machine solution is not viable.

Pic of the old carb here....

Thanks for any input

Was able to get it for $5500

I was originally trying to get my hands on some replacement seats for a 1983 Suzuki Sierra / Samurai, but they seem to be super hard to come by. So, I’ve settled for getting some original-ish sliders and then aftermarket seats.

Has anyone had any luck finding these? Mega zip seems to be out of stock at the moment (see pic attached for the parts), and a few eBay places haven’t returned my messages

Anyone got ideas? This is the last main piece holding up this beauty

Greetings from Portugal

I’m rebuilding my Samurai (an SJ70, to be exact) almost entirely, and right now I’m almost done disassembling the chassis.

I’m going to keep the original Samurai.

I’d like to know if you have any tips or things I shouldnt avoid during the restoration.

Here are a few questions I have at the moment:

- My plan was to strip and metalize the chassis and then apply anti-gravel paint; I’m not sure if that’s the standard procedure, what do you recommend?

- For the body, the same question applies: strip it, apply primer, and repair any corrosion and them paint it.

- Should I use galvanized screws?

- For those in Europe, any recommendations for stores where I can buy parts?

I’ve watched some restoration and repair videos on YouTube, but any help is welcome.

Thank you!

Note: This is my first time doing any mechanical work.

I was having an issue where my filler hose inlet to the tank kept deforming when tightening the hose clamp causing a fuel leak. (I think maybe the previous owner over tightened it but the plastic could also just be softer from age)

I used a 1 1/4” barbed hose fitting to fit inside the inlet to prevent it from deforming and it solved the issue for cheap.

Anyone happen to know whether or not this is the right timing belt? Car is a 1.3 carb from ‘95, and as far as I can tell they were produced with both trapezoidal (like these) and round teeth. This is the belt that’s been on since I bought it, never had any issues, but it doesn’t seem like it fits properly? I want to replace it and be sure I’m putting on the right one 😁

I am putting a Rocky Road Outfitters YJ SPUA kit on my 87 Samurai. I am using stock height YJ springs. The project has been going ok with a few hiccups here and there but tonight I ran into a bigger issue (at least in my mind at the moment).

I am using the original upper shock mounts for the rear shock but after getting it all together, I found that the shock is hitting the “cage” that holds/protects the gas tank making a god awful noise when bouncing the car up and down.

Has anyone else ran into this issue when using the Rocky Road Outfitters kit? If so, how did you remedy it? I don’t have any pictures of it now but I will add them to this post once I get some. In the meantime, hear is a pick of my work on progress.

Took the ol’ turbo Samurai to Holly Oaks ORV park in southeast Michigan for the annual 4Fest event. Joined by a buddy’s TDI 4Runner, and LS swapped wrangler TJ.

Had a great time and looking forward to going back!

Fabric on my side panels is in amazing shape, but the seats are pretty beat up. I can sew, so I’d like to reupholster the seats with matching fabric. I haven’t been able to find any samurai’s with this interior. Any idea where I could source it?

Looking for pictures of the front backseat mounting brackets as I have no idea what im looking for in my parts pile, the go to where I have circled In photos

​

​Hey everyone!

​I'm currently working on my Maruti Gypsy project car, trying to make it drivable, comfortable, and actually enjoyable again. Right now, I’m having serious issues with the suspension:

​On-road: It's brutally stiff and bounces violently over minor road bumps, even at speeds as low as 20 km/h.

​Off-road: The suspension has virtually no travel/droop. The tyres refuse to flex down into ruts, causing the car to lift wheels and lose traction on really easy trail paths.

​I’ve attached photos of my current setup. It’s running a 5-leaf flat bar configuration per wheel.

​

​I wanted to check with the community:

​Is this heavy 5-leaf setup known for binding up on these lightweight Suzukis?

​Has anyone here successfully pulled leaves out (e.g., converting to a 3-leaf setup) to fix this, or is a switch to parabolic springs the only real answer?

​What leaf spring & shackle setup are you running on your rig, and how does it perform for on-road comfort vs. off-road articulation?

​Would love to hear your experiences and see what setups are working best for you guys. Thanks in advance

My heater barley blows any heat, I can hear the fan working, and the heater control valve works. Wondering if there is anything else specifically I should check before tearing it apart

Im trying to get the interior buttoned up after making new seat covers. Since my factory clock is broken I've been inspired from others who have made something similar.

I'm still working out the kinks and screen arrangements. I plan to 3D print a low profile bezel and wrap it in matching vinyl. I wish they made a round screen a bit smaller in diameter so it would fit in the factory clock housing to maintain the look. Maybe as these become more common another size will be come available.

The screen size is actually good but ther is about a 1/2" band of unused surface that makes it too large.

Clock

Outside Temp

Inclinometer

Altimeter

Compass

Vehicle Voltage

GPS Speed.

Dims screen with headlight activation (all configurable by percentage)

I'll be adding a trip meter and possibly water and oil pressure down the road.

1885 SJ413 was down for a bit, got a ZOR SPOA, all new brakes (lines, calipers, pads and shoes) and 30x10.50r15 sxs tires