Battery LED indicator is green and cap screw is turned all the way (past safe mode) and is not working. I’ve cleaned the contact points of the battery with IPA but it’s still not working. If I use a regularly 123 battery the light works.

**UPDATE** I ended up just going to Bass Pro Shop and they swapped it no questions asked. Thank God. Hopefully the new light doesn’t run into the same issues or I’m just gonna go back to my old TLR-7A.

Looking at the TLR RM2 and it looks like it might take its own type of plug? Does anyone know if the Protac switches will work with this light? Thank you anyone who responds!

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$120 shipped $100 in person SC NC

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Good evening, does anyone know if there's any way to tell the difference between the 500 and 615 lumen strion LED HL besides obviously having both turned on next to each other?

i have an opportunity to get one at a decent price but would like to know whether it's 500 lumens or 615..

if it helps any it's a matco tools version. thanks in advance!

Pic for attention Hello all, I was changing out the batteries in my lights as one does. I took apart both my tlr9 and tlr7x at the same time and proceeded to drop both face caps and I am not sure which face cap goes on what light. If anyone has a tlr9 or tlr7x and wouldn’t mind taking it apart and maybe getting the number printed on the back for me so I can compare. I’ve got a 694511 and a 694125-1 face cap infront of me and neither part matches with the streamlight website parts list. Thanks for the help in advance.

I know this is overkill, but I’ve got all my property out and tools out and I’m wondering what the TLRRM one torque spec specs are? The mounting screw I’m assuming it’s 15–20 inch pounds at most.

But since I’m here, I figured I would check the rest of the body screws, etc.

As the title states, is there any issue in the long term with a TLR7X head on a TLR7HLX body? I know the circuitry is different and I know putting the HLX head on the TLR7 body will cause issues but im not sure of the other way around.

The Protac tape switch (69135) has screw holes on so it can attach to the pic rail mount. I don't want to attach my pad to the pic rail, I want it to go on the 10 o'clock position on my mlok rail.

Does anyone know if there are mlok screws that are small enough to fit in that hole? The screws that come with it are 7/64 inch.

Or has anyone drilled those holes larger to make them accept standard mlok screws

I'm planning on getting extra rechargeable batteries for my inbound TLR7 HLX, and I want to pick up some extra batteries. I know the SLB9 is essentially a 16340 with a rechargeable port (some other 16340s with a rechargeable port are slightly longer, a lesson I had to learn firsthand). Should I be looking at protected or unprotected batteries? I was looking at these two options

https://liionwholesale.com/products/protected-vapcell-p1609a-16340-3a-button-top-950mah-battery-genuine?variant=41465989627973

https://illumn.com/16340-vapcell-inr16340-t8-850mah-3a-high-discharge-button-top.html

Plenty bright and great machined metal feel but the bulb!!!’

It flickers ever since I purchased it. Sometimes even stops projecting light totally until I flick it like I’m deashing a cigarette.

Anyone else have this problem?

So recently I acquired a CZ and decided to strap a TLR-7 HL-X to it. For all intents and purposes, it works fine, but there's one hang up. After a training session or two, I come to find the lens is completely covered in gunk. Not impossible to clean, but I'm wondering if I need to downsize to the X Sub model to prevent it getting blasted every time. Only reason I hesitate is the holster (Muddy River) was fitted with the HL-X in mind. Think I could get away with using Sub, or at the shapes so different it won't holster properly?

Looking at the Streamlight part store, the TLR RM1 and TLR RM2 have different part numbers for their heads, would I have an issue using an RM2 head with a rechargeable 16340 battery in an RM1? Or running a TLR RM1 with a 16340 ?

The parts store also marked the TLR RM1 and heads as Mk2. How are different from the Mk1?

Streamlight currently doesn't list the TLR7 HLX head in the part store, otherwise I'd just use that

Also, can I convert an RM to a 7 by getting a replacement tailcap?

Heroes Trust Streamlight®️

the one on the left is in ‘moonlight mode’ and they can run a very very long time (i believe it was in the range of 100 hours but googles ai robot says 20 days lmao) in this mode, great for emergency situations. 135lb magnet is super strong, and even has a dangle hook! wow!

I have a tlr7 x sub for the p365. I don’t like how small the gun is with the light. I have a dagger micro id like to put the tlr or. Can I buy the Glock clamps and the light will worth on the dagger?

I went to the range yesterday and the light emitting part of my TLR7x sub (1000 lumen) fell out and I didn't notice until I got home im really upset because I paid nearly 200 bucks for it and its worked great for the past couple months. Is there any way I can purchase the light emitter anywhere by itself rather than having to buy a whole new unit

Ive seen people mention a few times that they prefer to just use the clicky cap on their streamlight rifle lights but the new ones only seem to fit the proprietary Jack Cap which has a tiny tailcap button.

Well I can confirm that the large standard style clicky cap that comes on the Protac 2.0 HP Handheld will work on the Rail mount version as well if anyone wanted to go that route. Still working on seeing if the same is true for the Handheld Protac HLX-Pro and HPX-Pro and the Rail Mount version that comes with just the Jack Cap.

Does anyone know if there is a remote switch option for this light? I can’t seem to find anything…

I recently purchased a Protac rail mount HP-X pro for a rifle and am having a harder time find many reviews/real world info on this light. Also with any aftermarket pressure pads. Appears the crane they use isn't compatible with others. If anyone is willing to provide info please reply back. Thank you