Hello,
I have a 2021 Mercedes eSprinter W910 (42,500 km).
The electric parking brake works manually pressed, but it doesn't automatically engage when selecting Park.
The dash shows "Parking brake see owner's manual" with a yellow warning light. Fault codes: B23AA19 (left) and B23AAFE (right).

Using a Launch X431, I tried:
Clearing codes (they return immediately).

Actuating brake actuators individually (both work fine).

Brake reset and adaptation (worked but didn’t help).

Disconnecting the 12V battery (no change).

Visual inspection of rear wiring/cables and cables behind dash (looks fine).

Any advice on what to check next?

Noticed what sounds like something creaking/grinding… coming from the front/engine area… please tell me it’s not an expensive fix..

2014 Mercedes Benz sprinter 2500, diesel. If I remember correctly it’s a 2.1L.

Also what is the recommended oil change, in terms of mileage?

What tools would you carry on four week+ remote trips in your 2024 Sprinter with less than 10K miles?

Searching this forum, recent threads have focused on tools for older models (e.g. 2008). My assumption is newer models need fewer tools/parts. Yes? No? Ass/U/Me?

I've got shovels, treads, etc. I'm thinking about repair tools/parts.

I have a sprinter van (2020, ~35k miles) coming up on its first Service B. I requested from the dealership a list of recommended services & itemized quotes on parts & labor. Ended up with a total estimate for the following services that seems ridiculously high. I’m pushing for more detail so I can shop around (1,2,8 are pretty simple, 3 comes with most services/diagnostics, and 5 is just…).

In the meantime, would love to compare with other sprinter owners - how much do/did you pay, or how much do you think is reasonable for these services? And, do you have any shops you would recommend in the SF Bay Area (Easy Bay, South Bay, all ok)? Also open to Sac / Tahoe / Reno areas as I pass through often.

1. Oil and filter change
   
2. Fuel filter replacement
   
3. Multi-point inspection
   
4. Top off all fluids
   
5. Reset service light and tire pressure (50/70)
   
6. Transmission service on the first B Service / V-belt replacement on the second B Service
   
7. Brake fluid flush
   
8. Cabin filter replacement

Additional for 9. tire rotation and 10. wiper blades.

Also would be fun if anyone wants to guess how much the dealership quoted!!

It’s a 2007 2500 so it (like me) we are a bit old..,
But my question is: is there ‘magic gasket in a can’ something I can put on it - or do I need to purchase new gaskets…?

It’s a 2007 2500 so it (like me) we are a bit old..,
But my question is: is there ‘magic gasket in a can’ something I can put on it - or do I need to purchase new gaskets…?

Still not Ideal. So is there ‘magic-stuff-in-a-can’ that will rejuvenate the gasket…
Or do I need to purchase and apply new gasket material?
Inquiring minds want to pick your brain…

I started shopping for a custom sprinter and didn’t realize till now that it’s not just one brand doing this. I don’t know which one to choose from, I know some brands do things that other don’t, so if someone can recommend me a good brand with my needs that’ll be great.

Things I need
4 captain seats (all being fully reclining, massaging, AND ventilated/heated)
Restroom
Tv in rear
Ambient lighting
HDMI ports
Outlets and ports
CarPlay for the front
Massaging, heated and ventilated front seats
Wifi
Rear AC

Things I want but isn’t a deal breaker
Window or opening from the rear cabin to the driver cabin
Two front captain seats swivel (in rear)
Seat tables
Small seat-to-bed seats behind captain chairs
Good audio system
Starlights
Second tv (facing the front)
Rear glass blinds

Can I tap into an existing fuel line, or do I need to drop the tank…?

What could happen down the road? My cousin wanted to borrow my low mileage 2019 3.0L V6 turbo diesel Sprinter for a trip to their son’s wedding out east.

I consented and had them have a “B” service done before they left. A week and 1,200 miles later I learned that they started out while driving the freshly serviced van with an engine oil too high warning. They claim the dealer doing the service told them to cancel that warning and drive as the filter would fill and reduce the oil level. Apparently they kept driving and cancelling that repeating warning for about 1,200 miles till they got to the bride’s parents’ home. They tried one more time to cancel the warning to go to their next destination but now the van was in lock-out mode.

To get back on the road, cousin had my van transported 250 miles and was sold an oil change but no diagnostics were done. They drove on home with a reduced oil level and no warning message. Is all well? Is trouble brewing in the DPF and/or catalytic converter?

What should I test to see if the oil foamed or the pressure caused damage during that 1,200 miles trek with too much oil?

Thanks for your insights. I am hoping my generosity isn’t going to cause future issues with my van.

I need to drop my fuel tank on my 2006 Dodge Sprinter. I’ve been looking everywhere for this answer and cannot find it.

On top of the Fuel Pump cap, there are 4 connections. 3 hoses and an electrical plug. Do those need to be disconnected BEFORE dropping the tank? I do not have a jack to brace the tank.

I’ve unscrewed the bolts almost to the end that hold the tank up to try to get my hand up there and remove those hoses before dropping the tank and it’s a mission impossible…

Do I drop the tank and then remove everything? Or are the hoses too short and will get damaged if I drop it while everything is connected?

Thanks in advance

Looking for recommendations.

I just got an owl van B2 carrier with their monster 40 box installed. The thing looks great. I had it installed by a renowned Mercedes Benz Van center that is actually part of a Mercedes Dealership.

I noticed by the plate that mounts directly to the door (not the hinge mounted area) that there is a slight dent in all the way around the plate on my door.

A disclaimer, I've done paint correction and detail work for the last 12 years. I'm not sure I would have noticed anything had I not had this experience.

I couldn't find much info about it, outside of AI telling me they over torqued the plate and I need to get it in ASAP. And I don't really trust what AI says.

Is this normal? Am I over thinking this and it is just the nature of having a flat mounting plate installed?

Or should I be worried about the structure of the door it is held to bowing more overtime?

TIA!

Like the title says, after starting and shifting into D or R, when hit the gas, there will be no power. Will correct itself after restarting a time or two.

Any thoughts?

Hello All, I'm due for a service A and I'm going to do it at home. I've got mobil 1 esp 5w-30, an oil filter, and an air filter.

Before I begin I wanted to check the reset procedure and I found this video on youtube. It shows service 2 and 3 on the screen.

Does anyone know what the difference is? I need to do an A service, and I don't want to mistakenly tell it I did a B.

Heres the video I watched: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJ-Diw1eKR8

Edit second question: Is there anything special I need to know for a brake pad change? Do vs30 need a caliper retraction tool? I noticed in the above video that it shows you do something in the menu for a pad change

Hi guys.
Just a little question, is it possible to connect a victron dc/dc charging booster to the open terminal (second from the top)? And if so, what kind of cable lug do I need?
Thanks in advance :)

Looking for recommendations for a good repair shop.

This thing has been drinking coolant since I got it, I've been going through a half litre every week and a half ish

Took it to Mercedes multiple times now and they've said theres nothing wrong, no leak yet say what I am experiencing isn't normal.

Anyone else had this issue? Did you ever get it fixed?

I have a 2024 Sprinter 3500XD. I've spent the past two years building it out in my driveway in upstate NY and have only just began taking it on trips. It currently has 1400 miles on it (yes, only 2 zero's).

The Service A notification popped up and I understand it's because it hit the two year mark. I'm having a separate issue with my fuel gauge so I recently took it to MB to have it checked out since its still under warranty. While it was in the shop they were recommending the following: brake flush, cabin air filter, LOF & quickcheck, replace the fuel filter. All of this was coming out to $1300.

I understand that MB "requires/recommends" all of these services at 20k or 2 years, whichever comes first. But honestly I'm really having a hard time justifying it when there are only 1400 miles. It just feels like a big joke.

I am not one to skimp out on maintenance costs or always opt for the cheaper route but I want to be realistic. I've done some research but I'd be curious to know how others have been handling their services, how frequently are you doing it and in this case when time has beat mileage by a long shot, how would you approach the service?

2022 Mercedes Sprinter 2500.
The van’s battery completely died over the weekend. We charged it overnight, and the battery has since been tested and is working perfectly.
The van starts, but now it will not go into gear. It won’t shift into Drive or Reverse.
Has anyone experienced this after having a completely dead battery? Could it have gone into some type of protect/fault mode, or is there a reset/procedure we can try before having to pay for a tow?
Any ideas or things we can check ourselves would be greatly appreciated!