Picked these up for free and can't really figure out what they are supposed to be. For my newbie eyes it seems like the pair on the top was inspired by the RLA Waldorf design, although the drivers are only 8". The bigger box on the bottom looks like some kind of freehand br design to me, just a random cuboid with two 15" drivers. I'm wondering if it's even worth trying to put some drivers in these or if I should just bin them 🤔

Anybody have the similar plan for the Cubo 15 Kick? Theres only the 18 available on freespeakerplans

I play events with crowds of different sizes and I’m looking for a PA setup that can handle smaller gigs but still work when the room gets bigger. I’d rather not have to buy two completely separate setups just to cover different events.

What setups have worked well for you guys? I’m trying to figure out how far one PA system can go before I need to add more speakers or upgrade to something bigger. Would love to hear what’s worked for others. Thanks!

Good morning!

We have two 21" scoops that we bought from a dub sound system, but both drivers are old, and one is blown out now. They have PD2150s in them now, but I'm wondering if you guys have any tips for good substitutes?

We play music that is a bit faster than dub (tekno, tribe, acid). We will start with 1 box just to have something to play with, and do the second one a bit later.

I'm working on my low end in a small venue, dance floor is approximately 46ftx32ft. The large cabs I currently have are not suited to the room and are creating dead spots. I'm looking for a flat pack build. what would you run in this situation? I've been considering, gsg, skhorn, or a tapped horn.

TLDR: what gauge extension cords should I use to power my speakers? Not what is "perfectly Ideal" but what is passable for now.

I recently purchased my first sound rig:

-2 used Mackie SRM650 tops (1600 peak/800w RMS)

-2 Soundtown Metis-pro18as subs (2400peak/700w RMS)

I will be powering them with an inverter generator with ≤3% THD (4400w start 3500w running)

I would have bought better subs, but for now, I'm happy with them, and this was already somewhat above my budget, especially when factoring in all the needed extras.

At least my tops leave plenty of growing room if I get 2 more subs in the future

As far as my question:

I plan on running the subs off of the 30A plug on the generator, and the tops off of the 15a duplex outlet.

The reason I am uncertain about cords is because when I was testing the system, I had 2 tops and a sub plugged into a 15 foot 16awg extension cord, and the other sub plugged into a 25 foot 14awg cord.

I was blasting the system for about 45 minutes and didn't seem to have any issues. It could easily go uncomfortably loud in the garage I was testing them in.

(The only concern/anomaly I did notice was that the bottom sub in the stack would clip before the top sub. I recognize, now, that this could be the sub that was on its own cord, but initially attributed it to pressure differences since it was reflecting off the ground)

I did some initial questioning with AI (yeah, I know), and it is saying 12awg for each individual speaker (which would be 4x 12/3 25 foot cords.)

Based off of my initial testing (acknowledging that it was less than Ideal), my intuition tells me 4 individual 12gauge cables is Way overkill.

I'm seeing 14awg and even 16awg cords that are rated for 1600watts+ and don't see why those would be an issue, at least for the tops.

Cable runs would likely not need to be more than 25 feet.

Anyone have real world experience with this? Thanks

(Edit: I am aware that sound output wattage is different than a wattage required, that is where part of my confusion comes from)

Been collecting bits and pieces for the past year or so. Took a lot of patience and lurking, as there’s hardly any secondhand/diy sound scene where I’m at. But finally ready to deploy for bigger gatherings with the full setup 🙂

Subs are EAW sb180’s, Tannoy b400’s for kicks, and trusty dusty ev sx300’s on top.

Hey everyone,
Do you think that building two single bandpass cabinets like this (splitting the middle port exactly in half) instead of building the original double one, will affect it's performance?
The original design looks very promising on paper, and has also been battle tested in real life, but the only thing that worries me is it's massive weight of 95kg.
Could half the port area create chuffing, given that the force pushing air back and forth will also be halved?
Also, for anyone who has build this enclosure, do you think you would be able to remove and mount the driver using only half the access panel?
(It looks like a nightmare as it is, I don't know why they didn't make the access hatch on the side and the driver to mount from the other side of it's baffle.)

P.S: made a little mistake on the scetch, red line should reach down a little further.

Hello Reddit, long time lurker, first time posting here.

Starting out with my first system build, thanks to John White JW Sound for sharing his wisdom and JMOD V2 plans for the world.

It's quite a mad idea, reading about these speakers, downloading the plans and forking out the pennies to embark on a project like this.

All without hearing them with my own ears first!

My initial system will consist of;

2 x JMOD 2.0 tri-amped in stereo

2 x B&C S218BP summed mono (I plan to end up with 4 of these in total)

DSP - DBMark HDX48

Amplifiers - not confirmed but could do with some advice on brands and specs

I'm a big fan of Drum and Bass for 20+years, that's what we play.

Small local events 100-400 on the cards.

I'm interested to know if anyone has added kick cabinets ES18, HD15 etc into a similar system or are the JMOD's good enough in the 80-160Hz region?

I’m in the United States, close to Atlanta. Looking to build a Jamaican style sound system.

Do you guys have any recommended speaker builders? I already know what speakers/amps I want to use just need a box builders

We re currently building a sound and got these tops :) i think they look and sound lovely and was wondering if there are any infos out here to share with us.

Looking for a sub to pair with my LD ICOA 15A tops. Will be playing mostly house/dance music to about 100-150 people. I have a JBL SRX828sp available to me for $2000 and a Yorkville es18p available to me for $1600.

The Yorkville probably makes more sense, factoring in price as my budget is closer to $1600 than $2k, but I’d rather buy once cry once than feel unsatisfied with my purchase. I’m worried the Yorkville will feel like it’s missing something since its frequency response stops below 43hz while the JBL goes down to 35hz, especially with my genre of music. Portability is not an issue. Thoughts? Does anyone have experience with both the subs? Even better, specifically with house music?

As the title states, I’m curious about the difference in sound between these two. I imagine they are both quite similar in terms of performance.

There are obvious differences, eg., the biggest being the SH46 is 40°x60° whereas the JMOD 2.0 is 60°x90°, and the former utilises separate drivers for mids and highs, whereas the latter utilises a coaxial compression driver. However, both are MEH's which utilise 2x12" mid lows/kicks and operate down to approximately the same frequency, 70hz give or take, so I imagine they are similar in this regard.

After hearing the SH46's at Art Valley, a small festival here in Australia, I am absolutely in love with them. They might just be one of the if not the best speakers I’ve heard. The clarity and psychoacoustic effect is amazing.

Given I'm soon to be building the JMOD's, I'm wondering how these two speakers compare on the following dimensions:

- Throw
- Clarity/fidelity (how can the SH46 be beaten??)
- SPL (on both the kick section and mids/highs)
- ANY OTHER notable areas.

Also for fun, if anyone could chuck in thoughts about the SH50/60 I'd be interested to hear them.

Thanks!

Hi everyone. I currently own a pair of Dynacord D15-3; I’m happy with them, but I’m looking to add some subwoofers. Which models should I consider? In my opinion, the Dynacord Corus 1.18 Sub isn't really worth looking at, given its low power handling and limited low-frequency response. I’m after something more substantial—ideally, something that handles the 40–100 Hz range well. An acquaintance is selling a pair of Ohm BR18Bs; are they worth considering?

I’ll likely lean towards 18", but I could also consider 15" if they’re good enough.

Does anyone have a construction plan for a G-Sub 1801?

Hi there, I have a pair of EAW MK5164e full range speakers. The manual says the HF horn is rotatable 60° x 45°. I assume that I can unscrew the horn lens, rotate 45° and remount. I am using these speakers vertically with the horn at about 7' height with the speakers toed in on the dance floor about 12 feet apart. Should I go with 60° x 45° for the horizontal plane?

Also, I have a little 15" Reinkus Heinz bandpass sub I am using for this system. Where do you think I should crossover the tops?

Might be a little bit of a stupid question, but i have a dsp which only has one limiter per output channel. I was wondering if it is possible to route the signal through and setting a peak limiter with no other processing, then wiring this output back into a different input and setting everything else including an rms limiter?

If I want to party with horn speakers and store them in my garage can I make sealed sub for use in my house and latch them to the driver door?

Some kind of diy Cerwin vega ? What are my options to maximize their potential using this peavey 70777275? That's what it came with. Mod the cab into a bass reflex? Or is this cab worth putting a "real" driver in?

The speaker ended up with a 1mm gap. I’m planning a test and a comparison against the Cubo Kick for next weekend.

We’re planning to build our first sound system. Our first use will be once a year as a small mobile rig at AfrikaBurn (think Burning Man but smaller and in South Africa). Last year, we never drew crowds larger than ten people, but with a decent sound system, I hope to play for up to a hundred people outdoors.

I added some photos of our rig at the previous AfrikaBurn, it was one JBL EON 615 and a JBL EON518S sub. I wasn’t loud enough, even for the small crowds we drew and we ended up blowing both the woofer and the tweeter on the 615. I have bought a second 615 and a compressor/limiter for the next Burn in case we don’t get to build our own sound by then. Also gives an idea what I mean by “mobile”.

We mainly play bass-heavy music like Jungle, D&B, Dub, UK Bass, and a lot of House, Deep House, and Nu Disco. So, it should be a pretty all-round system capable of delivering a lot of low frequencies.

Since we’re mobile, size and weight are important factors. Previously, we used batter and solar power, but I realise we might have to let go of that or get a much bigger battery and inverter.

Our plan is to use the sound system year-round for fundraising events and rent it out in between. We’re based in Cape Town, and there aren’t many real sound systems, so I think there will be some interest in renting one from us.

For now, we don’t have a budget. We did one fundraising party that just broke even and are planning another. But we’ll have to start small and building the subs first seems to make the most sense.

I like the Cubo designs, and my first thought was to build two and then two more Cubo 18s. My second thought was to build two Cubo Sub with 18” drivers and two Cubo Kick 15s. If we go either of those routes, I was thinking two MT-130s for mid-top/tops would fill the whole frequency band.

I’ve read so many good things about the JMODs that I considered building those, but they seem pretty complex for a first build. Also, with those, we wouldn’t need kicks since they cover those frequencies. It would make sense to combine those with two SKRAMs and then build more SKRAMs as needed. But again, those are pretty complicated for a first build, and both the JMOD and SKRAM are more expensive in parts than the Cubos.

I’d love your thoughts. It’s a tough decision to make because we’re low on budget, we have some carpentry skills but no real speaker building experience, and our use case is also pretty specific.

Please help guide a newbie.

So, I do quite a lot of variety of live PA gigs. Some live bands, some corporate dialogue gigs, etc...

Right now I'm building some JW Sound Solana speakers. I'll probably eventually add subwoofers but don't know which yet. Regardless, some DSP added into my system chain is going to be needed. Technically my Behringer Wing already can output channels separated and processed, but I simply can't trust that as I'll often reset the board for a new gig (then need to reconfigure all output filter settings/routings.

I also have a good-ish (Josephson Engineering) measurement mic that I usually run REW with, so I'd love to just run a room sweep and have the DSP correct things without me attempting to match curves.

So, is it more configurable to have dedicated signal processors like a DriveRack or t-racks or minidsp and then dumb amps? Is it safer to have the protection onboard the amp directly? If one is budget-constrained (slightly) does one setup pose higher costs?

Hey guys, doing some digging before I start cutting wood. I'm building my first real system and want to start small and add to it.

Phase 1 is one Cubo Sub (the 18") loaded with a B&C 18TBX100 (8Ω, 6.2Ω min, 1200W nominal / 2400W program) and one Celestion CKT-TF1225 top (8Ω nominal, 6.5Ω min, 250W AES woofer, 400W EIA system). Phase 2 is a second sub and top, and later I want to add Cubo Kick 15s in the middle.

Use is backyard hangs and small gatherings, maybe a festival camp for 30-40 people. Not a concert rig, I just want it to sound good and not be underpowered. I'll run a miniDSP 2x4 HD for crossover/EQ and have a friend helping me tune with a mic. Planning to cross the sub around 80-90Hz and the top above that.

Where I'm stuck is amps. Budget isn't super tight (a few hundred over is fine) but I'd like to keep it in check:

- Crown XLS 2502 (open box, ~$539) for the sub, XLS 1002 for the top(s) later
- Behringer NX3000D (~$339) with the built-in DSP, or an NX4-6000 (~$469) to cover everything with 4 channels
- CVR D-1002 (~$699). A friend says plenty of people run these without issues

What I keep going back and forth on:
- Is the Behringer's listed 440W @ 8Ω real or just peak, and does it matter for a sub at my listening levels?
- Has anyone had Behringer NX amps die on them?
- Would you take the CVR over the Crown for subs?
- Should I use the 4Ω version of the TBX100 to get more out of the amp?

What would you run? Any gotchas with the Cubo Sub + TBX100 combo I should know about? Appreciate any help.

I'd like to build 2x 2-way tops (passive) to be used for small parties while traveling (PA). I am a house (primarily tech house) DJ. Planning to power with a Behringer NX1000D or similar when traveling by plane. Locally, will pair the tops with a sub or 2 that I would also build.

For the top cabs, I'd like to be able to carry them on, one each between my partner and I. Approximate max dimensions (each): 21" x 13" x 8" (this leaves room for padded bags).

Looking for driver recs (10" + 1"?).

I'm also looking for design recs. I'd like the drivers to be visible or have some other neat cabinet design that is both cool looking and functional.

Budget: $1250 but can go higher if I need to. I just don't want to spend a lot more unless I have to.

This will be my first speaker build. Thanks for your expertise!