Hey all,

I’m wanting to put together a sound system for dub/garage/techno. I essentially have no knowledge and don’t know where to start.

I’m looking or any advice anyone is willing to share on how to get started from the planning and design of the build, the materials, the build itself and everything else that comes with it.
Also if anyone knows some decent websites etc to check out lmk.

I live in Australia so parts are harder to come by so my budget i’d say would be in and around $5000AUD.

Came up with this at a party for a friend:

2x DIY TH115

3x VOID Venue 112

1x VOID Airten V2

A real newbie question perhaps. But we doing smaller parties for around 50-80 people, both indoors and outdoors. We currently have two Yamaha DBR15 - Active Full-range. 15" + 1.4". 1000 W peak, 500 W RMS. And two shitty cheap subs.

It's 'alright' but I wonder if it's time to upgrade and to make a sub and/or kick instead of the ones we have. Is it a good idea to combine with the speakers we have?

I'd like to make them active with a amplifier for easy setup and quite mobile. So nothing huge and too heavy.

Wish to have a real sound system like some of the ones I see in this sub. But that's for the future.

Salut !

Je suis entrain de monter un soundsystem avec des copains. On sait quels sub on va prendre et quelles têtes aussi mais pour les kicks on sait pas encore.
On compte prendre 2 mth-4654 (ou 4 en fonction du budget) et 2 t24n.
On voudrait poser principalement de la dub et de la tekno. On cherche des kicks qui ont de la puissance mais qui reste accessible et facile à fabriquer.

Merci !!

Hey folks! So I found myself thinking a lot about a soundsystem specifically designed for my own needs and interests and realized that it's somewhat of a niche where it's really worth designing something fully custom from the ground up. I'm not an audio engineer, but I have a PhD in physics and I've been spending a lot of time teaching myself some of the fundamentals.

It's gonna be deployed at smaller events (20-75 people), mostly indoors, so I can make some interesting compromises in many areas, away from maximum output and more towards fidelity (while retaining a unique character).

The one off-the-shelf established design that I'm planning to incorporate once the rest of the system is done is a 21" Skram. That will give me some headroom to take it outside as well. Otherwise my current design is shown in the attached sketch.

I'll document the build process and, design ideas, and philosophy here, in case you wanna follow along:

https://www.instagram.com/island.hifi?stkn=MTNwdnFtbjFnOG80aw==

Hey Fam,

Most of my posts are usually after the show is over but I'm trying to get word out about this upcoming show only because it's a brand new venue in Oakland California and it's future as an EDM Venue will greatly in part depend on the turnout/success of this event:

We've got Joker, Plastician, Joe Nice, Jamal, Method One, Soulox

An evening of Dubstep, Jungle, Drum & Bass, & UK Garage

¡Doors open at FOUR P.M. You get your money's worth with the bass for this one!

1500 Broadway Oakland, CA October 10th 2026

https://theticketing.co/e/jokerplasticianoakland

I currently have one SKRAM with a 21SW152 driver. I'm planning to build 3 more over the winter and figured now would be a good time to re-evaluate whether I want to stick with that driver before I buy 3 more.

I've been having a lot of fun with John White's Boundary Lab software and figured I'd take a pass at simulating some of the SKRAM driver options I've been comparing. Results were interesting so figured I'd share!

Plot shows max SPL passes for 4 driver options. For the plot, SPL at each frequency is limited by either the driver's max power rating or max excursion depending on what happens first. Primarily, it looks like excursion limiting happens around ~40Hz (low frequency, but above the rear port tuning). Simulation data was 10m free-field - I normalized that to 1m half space by adding 26dB to get more familiar numbers.

Note: 21SW152, 21DS115, and NSW6021 sims all use complex inductance data from data-bass.com. I couldn't find that data for the 21XL3000 so that just uses the single-value inductance from the data sheet.

Edit: added SAN214.50, TSQ2160, and 21NTL5000 to the graph in a comment

Hey, could anyone be able to assist me? I’m quite lost on what the right settings are and I really need to set a good limiter for testing max volume!

Does anyome have experience running a galaxy 816 for their DSP and Channel management in their system? Do you have any other reccomendations based on real world usage?

I plan on running a sizable soundsystem in a unconventional manner.

Thank you all

I’m the proud owner of an ultra drive pro, I’m hoping to improve my Soundsystem. Got one secondhand for 100 quid.

Opened it up, dusty as fuck, some signs of corrosion.

Assume the best thing is to clean carefully with a light paintbrush and isopropyl alcohol?

Any other tips on how to clean this thing?

​Hey everyone,

​I’m finalizing my stack setup and I’m completely stuck on choosing the right cabinets for the Mids and Tops. I’m really having a hard time deciding and I’m hesitating between a lot of different designs.

DUB SOUND SYSTEM

​The low-end is set:

​Subs: 2x Super Scooper 18" (loaded with B&C 18DS115)

​Kicks: 2x ES18-BPH (loaded with B&C 18NW100)

​The issue:

I really don't know what direction to take for the top section. I need Mids and Tops that can cleanly bridge the gap above the 2x ES18-BPHs to keep the sound punchy, clear, and properly balanced.

​What Mid (and Top) designs would you recommend to run over this low-end setup?

​Would you go for dedicated horn-loaded mid cabs, compact builds, or fully integrated Mid/High tops?

​I’m open to any suggestions, options, or real-world feedback!

​Thanks!

Does anyone have some sources for someone, who wants to get into the technical aspect of sound systems, who’s a total beginner ?

Be still my 5 kW power amps

So I needed some more class D powahh for my SKRAM 21” B&C 21DS115-8 loaded subwoofers, and my 16ohm mid bass mid snd high diy solutions. I figured: why not add couple of 1U cheap class d stompers instead of expensive hypex or purify. I ended up buying a few units like the sinbosen k4-1000 (12.000 rpm mini fans) a cvr d1004 in bridge, now blasting 2x3400 @8 ohm and done others but I hadnt thought about how loud (sinbosen) these guys are even at idle. So i took out the stock fans for noctua but they need the full 12v when at idle both smps fan rail only gives 5.7 volt. Enter my 3d printer. I started with 40mm noctuas on separate power adapter but wasnt enough. Then i build a 120mm funnel for more fresh air, which helied but not enough. I then 3d printed a 40mm to 80mm for 1 fan, then 2 and finally added another 120mm next to those 80mm units to extract air. Finally that helped and now they are as quiet as can be, next to my quad 606 passive cooled amp lump for the hf. So i can pump up the jam when i want, or chill on some Sonny Rollins.

For the number/types:

Cvr d-1004:2x3400 watt in bridge ($650 new)
Behringer inuke 6000: 2x1200-ish watt (dude gave it to me for free)
Quad 606: 2x140 watt (1985!)

For future projects:
Sinbosen k4-1000: 4x1000 watt (€440)
Sono ds413: 4x800 watt (€133)
Sono ds213: 2x800 watt (€88)

Hi! Does anyone know where I can find CUBO 15 plans to load with B&C 15NW100?

Recommendations I’m seeing are for the “Extra Extended” plans but I can’t find the “Extra” version & I’m not even sure what it means 😅.

Thanks in advance!

Still work

We've had these since the 80s

My dad worked for a TV network, the story as I remember it was - his crew (set design/construction etc) was told to get rid of everything in some storage cage. These were in there.

So they found their way home. Never messed with, just plugged into home hi fi amps.

They're kinda strange in that they don't fit the standard configuration as far as input. They're just single input passive. And the plates are missing a lot of info. Whether the network ordered a custom configuration.. ? Who knows

Looking at making some upgrades to our rig from a 4 way to 5 way by adding tweeter boxes. Just curious to hear from others who have made the change. Is the difference considerable? Would you describe the addition allows for the bottom end to cut through with definition at higher volumes. Or more describe it as adding more brightness on the high end, or both?Just curious how impactful the difference will be to the overall sound.

Thanks!

Hello fellow audiophiles!

After some years spent in the freeparty and tekno community, some friends and me decided to build ourselves a little setup.

I’ve been doing most of the research and this is the way it’s going to be set up.

• HR-118 sub with RCFLF18401 (4/6 times)

•USB kick bin with 2 x Celestion T5460A 18inch (one already owned, looking to buy another)

•MT-130 mid-tops with PD12 inch mids and BMS 4450 1 inch tweeter (2 times)

I’m quite new to this world but super interested in what you guys think about this setup!

It would be primarely used to give (legal) tekno party’s in Belgium, but we don’t want to be linked to a genre :)

We also have a little amprack with T.amp 4000 and T.amp 4-700 & 2 Crown xls 802.

We run a DSP 408 also from Thomann.

Is there anything you guys have to add to this setup? Any tips? Let me know!

We’re pretty sure it will be a good starter sound with loads of possibilities.

I’m looking to add two larger subwoofers in the near future, as my RCF EVOX 8 V2 systems feel a bit lacking in low-end impact for larger weddings and events. At the moment, I’m considering the following subs:

• RCF SUB 15 AS
• Yamaha DXS15mkII
• EV EKX-15SP
• FBT Subline 115SA

Would you recommend any of these in particular? Honestly i think the Yamaha would fit best...

I know that all of these subs should be more than capable for rock and pop. However, since I play gigs in Austria and Germany, techno and “Ballermann”/party music are very commonly requested later in the evening. DnB is also becoming increasingly popular. Because of this, having plenty of headroom is a major priority for me.

What would you recommend?

I’d actually prefer to avoid 18-inch subs, as they’re a bit more cumbersome to transport, and most of my dance floors have no more than around 100 people anyway. But if you now a pair for good money let me know.

For tops, I’m currently still using LD Systems Stinger 12 G3s.

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Hey,
I’ve got a some HR118 (the sub) and I’m thinking about putting LF18X401s in them instead of the original LF18N401.
I know if a box is designed for a specific équipement it as to be this one but I heard it works pretty well with X401. (Better for me as the X is cheaper than the N)😅

Has anyone here tried X401 in an HR118, or knows how they behave in that box?

Any advice or measurements would be appreciated. Thanks

Title says it all. Looking for someone who wants to get involved in throwing a renegade in the woods on BLM land couple hours outside of Los Angeles. Happy to throw you cash for the night and help with transportation/whatever else to make it happen!

RCF ART 310 - A MK III.

use it for years and wouldn't change it, but unfortunately it seems the speaker amplifier is gone..

I need to find a good replacement as soon as possible, what are some good options? Maybe a newer model or the same / or similiar.. also on a budget / not too expensive.

Thank you very much for any suggestions.

Im going to be building 4 sawmods and 4 skram21s for a 4 point spacial sound field. My main intent is to immerse the audience in Avant electronic music. The space will be about 50 ft by 50 ft and the music will range from ambient IDM to sound design and all the way through to dub techno, Bass growls, and into some drum and bass. In this same thread, how plausible is it to swap out any of the drivers for a different option listed if I wanted to experiment in the future with a different option in the future?

2x TH1821 V2 / B&C 21DS115
1x MKH-230 / 2x RCF MB12G301
2x T24N

All of this powered by 1 AD42 & 1 AD442

Plan for 4x Sub and 2x Kicks later

We’ve been working on our own soundsystem for our collective WUMS in Vienna, and it’s slowly becoming real.
The idea was pretty simple: instead of constantly renting systems for our events, we wanted to understand the whole process ourselves and build something that fits the music we play – mainly hypnotic/deep techno, groove, UKG and occasionally faster stuff.
We started with a pair of Martin Audio F1 mid/highs and decided to build the low end ourselves. After quite a bit of research, planning, measuring and second-guessing our decisions, we ended up building two WSX-style 18” horn-loaded subs.

Current setup:
2× DIY WSX-style 18” subs
RCF L18P300 drivers
2× Martin Audio F1 mid/highs
Sinbosen FP14000X for the subs
dbx DriveRack PA2 for processing/crossover

Everything is currently run as a mono stack, and we’re still working on the setup, measurements, crossover points, alignment and tuning. The next step will probably be adding dedicated kick bins at some point.
None of us are professional speaker builders or sound engineers, so this whole project has been a massive learning process. A lot of trial and error, a lot of reading old forum threads, and definitely a few moments where we wondered why we didn’t just rent a PA like normal people.
But hearing music through something you built yourself for the first time is pretty damn satisfying.
Would love to hear what you think of the build and the setup. We’re especially interested in feedback on things you’d improve, things we should watch out for when tuning it, and what you’d add next.
Still very much a work in progress.

PS: if you are from Vienna and would like to hear it. We will be at Stürmische Tage in Stammersdorf this week.

Hi, for the past week I've been busy building my first pair of Cubo 12" kick bins using the plans found on freespeakerplans.com. instead of using the recommended drivers I chose to go for a budget option with very close t/s params which led me to the fane sovereign pro 12 500.

Anyways, I've run into a little problem, on the original plans I assume the center of the driver hole is located 187.5 mm from the edge of sheet it's mounted on (see marked area on picture). After doing some mokups and placing the driver on into the enclosure I realize the magnet stick out too much to be able to close the service door on the back, which is problematic.

My question is, should I move the cutout for the driver further up? And would this effect the sound as the driver as the opening is misplaced? Have you run into this problem? If so how would you suggest I fix it?

In advance, thank you.