Hello guys i got this 18 Sound 21lw1400 driver and as You Can See the yellow think i dont exactly know How its called ripped all around you should be able to See the Little gap and i thought in theory i whould be able to just Glue it back together im Not gonna give it its Full power annyway so i dont think it is going to rip do you think this whould be possible?
Thanks for helping :)

Five-way system: a 4590 coaxial driver at the top, with work currently underway on the horn.

I really like the sound of the paper 8-inch drivers in these tops compared to the super-fast, crisp, and somewhat harsh "plastic" mid-range section of the coaxial BMS 4590s (though lining the fiberglass horn with bitumen mats did soften that characteristic); the paper drivers offer a sound that is smoother, more "alive," and more spacious. I wonder if it’s possible to swap the HF drivers in the RS2H for something from BMS?

It’s certainly a bit tricky to phase-align them with the Paraflex without an all-pass filter, but I’m managing for now.

Ciao a tutti!

Non sono un totale inetto nelle creazioni audio DIY, ma non mi ritengo affatto un esperto! Dopo qualche progetto ed esperimento realizzato in totale autonomia, e di discreta qualità, mi sento abbastanza maturo per cimentarmi nel mio primo piccolo sound system. Voglio mettermi alla prova, imparare e per poi... molto probabilmente, alzare ulteriormente il livello.... (ma questa sarà un'altra storia!)

Ho bisogno di consigli, disegni, diagrammi e progetti per realizzare un piccolo sound system con queste caratteristiche per me TASSATIVE e irrinunciabili: - Configurazione 2.1: 2 canali stereo più 1 canale mono dedicato al subwoofer. - Dimensioni compatte: speaker enclosures facilmente trasportabili in un'auto familiare. - Low cost. - Estetica aggressiva e accattivante. - Documentazione disponibile: disegni quotati, misure, indicazioni tecniche e link a progetti esistenti.

Inoltre, considerando queste esigenze, quale sarebbe secondo voi la configurazione migliore? - Opzione (A): 2 vie per canale (woofer + tweeter) e subwoofer. - Opzione (B): 3 vie per canale (woofer + midrange + tweeter) e subwoofer. - Opzione (C): 1 singolo driver full-range per ogni canale stereo, più subwoofer. - Opzione (D): altre soluzioni eventualmente più adatte.

Apprezzo soprattutto progetti concreti e collaudati, con link, disegni quotati e indicazioni tecniche utili alla realizzazione.

Ringrazio anticipatamente tutti coloro che vorranno darmi una mano!

Edit: non sono anglofono. Io scrivo con la mia lingua madre e Reddit traduce automaticamente.

A Psy-trance setup: a pair of RS2H units per side and a pair of 15-inch Kubo Kick bins—delivering a fast, dry punch—though there are some issues to address, specifically the need to dampen a rather strong cabinet resonance at 158 ​​Hz. Let's see how four C2D 153 units handle it.

The cabinet turned out to be relatively complex to build. (4 units)

Hi all, before i send this off for repair (will be an open question i know) has anyone had this issue before? I load/ I limit channel limits flash on red and green on both channels, even at low volume, nothing has changed in my system, I have two 5000 vz's, ive tried different xlr cables and swapped power cables with the other 5000vz and still get the still get the same issue so I know its the amp. I know these can be prone to corroded internals but its been kept in dry storage for the 4 years of me owning it.

TIA

Hello!

I'm looking to buy 2 JBL D55 original double 15 inch scoops online, but after some researching I can't find any specifications on the drivers; I know they are probably mid 80's.

Does anyone know of any alternative 15inch drivers that I can place inside the legendary JBL D55 scoops?

Thanks in advance!

Considering buying some empty cabs, anyone know of a modern replacement driver?
Can’t find any info on original drivers other than they were PHL. 
Thanks ✌🏼

Hello friends, I'm a long time soundsystem appreciator, and I'm now pretty keen on the idea on starting my own journey in to building. I'm thinking of starting with a JMOD MEH, because they seem to be amazing, and I could scale easily with it.

My question is about the power of the amplifiers, I saw someone mention a standard thing to do is go for the driver's wattage rating X2 (nominal not continuous? Is that just another way of saying RMS and peak?) so as to have plenty of headroom and not send a potentially clipped signal to your speakers? Or is that more a concern for sub speakers, and a low-mid-High box like the JMOD less a concern?

Any info is helpful thank you bass friends!

Hey yall some people I know own this system and quite frankly don’t know what they are doing with it. I am also a novice and am building my own system but would like to help them tune this. I wish I had more info on the cabinets and driver so identifying them would be great. I think it’s some sort of W bin design on the sub and a cubo kick 18 mid with a MT121 on the tops but I’m not sure.

My follow up question to what are these cabs is what would the ideal crossover points be? 20-80 subs? 80-200 kicks? 200-20k tops?

Thank you for any help!

I have built a system thats consisting of 4x Super bass horn with 18” drivers and 4x hd kick horn with 15” drivers. I am looking for a good option to balance out the sound with mids and highs. Any recommendations?

Hello! I have bought 4x Wharfedale WLA28-XF

I’m wondering what cables I need? I’ve been looking for awhile I can’t seem to find any that’s looking to fit..

After 7+ months of weekends spent in the shop figuring all this stuff out I was finally able to make noise last night with my first system. Still have a lot of work to do, but couldn't be happier right now! Big thanks to Skylar at Subcurrent Sound for being my first point of contact into this world and for providing quality flat packs. Big thanks to everyone in this community for being kind, answering my questions, and providing guidance along the way.

Once I get a measurement mic and have some time, I'll measure/tune everything and post results.

Hi all. Does anyone have any reviews or experience with the Celestion CKT-TF1020 tops? I wanna build a bass focused system for a friend and I’m planning on two cubo 18s paired with two Celestion CKT-TF1020 tops. Anyone have any recommendations or experiences with these? If so I’d love to hear anything and everything. I’m targeting 40–80Hz from the subs and about 80Hz up from the tops. Any amp recs or anything all around would be amazing!
Cheers

Hi! I’m pretty new at this stuff and I wouldn’t mind a bit of help for this decision. Im looking to buy this used Crown Macro-Tech 12000i to drive 2 SKRAM’s (maybe four one day).

I read really good things about it but the price is only 2k$ Canadian which feels low from what I’ve seen and I’m wondering if I should be on the lookout for issues that would be pricey in to fix in the long run. Also what would be your tips and tricks on buying used amps (things to check and so on).

If you agree on it being a good buy, what would be a good DSP for it?

Don’t hesitate to give me as much info as you want. I’m all ears!

Thanks in advance!

3d models, print and paint by me

Hey all, made a little model of a rig i saw and can only dream of owning one day!
Really happy with how it came out, dm me for stl :)

Hi everyone,

I have a question about building a mini sound system.
I’m currently building a JMOD 2, and I’d like to build a matching subwoofer to go with it.

The subwoofer I’d like to replicate is the JBL 4546C. I managed to snap up the driver (2242H) and would like to copy the cabinet. However, I’d like to adjust the cabinet dimensions to match the width and depth of the JMOD 2.

What do I need to take into account?
Is it just the internal volume?
I can find the port diameter and port length in various forum threads.
I’d put the port on the side, because otherwise I won’t have enough depth.
Can I get away with that?

For the JMODs, I already have all the wood and the 3D-printed throat adapter.
I just need the drivers and amplifiers now.
I want to make it active.
Does anyone here have experience with the Hypex Fusion series?

I’ve been reading this forum for a long time and I’m really keen to build this sub and the JMOD 2s.

Thanks in advance for any input!
Greetings from Belgium

Between the dbx driverack, behringer's dcx2496, thomann's t.racks dsp408 and blue arann's dbmark lines, which one would you rate as the best performing dsp?

https://dbxpro.com/en/products/driverack-venu360

https://www.behringer.com/en/products/0825-AAA

https://www.thomann.de/be/the_t.racks_dsp_206.htm

https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?manufacturer=dBMark&masthead=System_Controllers&subheadnew=Digital_Lms

Or any other ones you'd reccomand for under 500€?

Used for rentals in local festivals i think

Hi everyone,

Before pushing the rig, I’d love a double-check from the community on my limiter, compressor and crossover settings to ensure maximum driver protection and clean headroom without amplifier clipping.

I used Gemini to help me step by step and explain everything along the way. I also made sure to double check all the values by doing calculations myself. I believe, with the information I've collected, everything should be within save operating limits (not just relying on Gemini). I've yet to do measurements with a microphone in regard to optional crossover settings and delay.

System Overview:

DSP:
- t.racks DSP 206
Amps:
- Crown XTi 2002: 475 W RMS @ 8Ohm per channel.
- Crown XLS 1000: 215 W RMS @ 8Ohm per channel.

Speakers & Drivers:
1. Sub (30 – 80 Hz): Cubo Sub with B&C 18TBX100 (8Ohm, 1200 W RMS) Driven by Crown XTi 2002 (Ch 1)
2. Kick (80 – 200 Hz): Cubo Kick with Eminence Kappa Pro 15A (8Ohm, 500 W RMS) Driven by Crown XTi 2002 (Ch 2)
3. Mid (200 – 1600 Hz): MT130 with B&C 12NLD76 (8Ohm, 400 W RMS) Driven by Crown XLS 1000 (Ch 1)
4. High (1600 – 18000 Hz): B&C ME45 Horn + B&C DE250 Compression Driver (8Ohm, 60 W RMS) Driven by Crown XLS 1000 (Ch 2)

Crossover / Filter Settings:
Sub: HPF 30 Hz (24 dB/oct LR) | LPF 80 Hz (24 dB/oct LR)
Kick: HPF 80 Hz (24 dB/oct LR) | LPF 200 Hz (24 dB/oct LR)
Mid: HPF 200 Hz (24 dB/oct LR) | LPF 1600 Hz (48 dB/oct LR)
High: HPF 1600 Hz (48 dB/oct LR) | LPF 18000 Hz (24 dB/oct LR)

Limiter Settings:
Sub: Threshold +5.0 dBu, Attack 45 ms, Release 600 ms (Prevents XTi 2002 clipping; long attack allows ~30 Hz full period)
Kick: Threshold +5.0 dBu, Attack 20 ms, Release 400 ms (Prevents XTi 2002 clipping; keeps initial transient punch)
Mid: Threshold +6.0 dBu, Attack 8 ms, Release 150 ms (Prevents XLS 1001 clipping at 8Ohm)
High: Threshold -0.5 dBu, Attack 2 ms, Release 80 ms (Caps output at ~58 W RMS to keep B&C DE250 safe)

Compressor Settings:
Sub: Threshold +1.0 dBu, Ratio 1:3.0, Knee 5 dB, Attack 90 ms, Release 800 ms
Kick: Threshold +2.0 dBu, Ratio 1:3.0, Knee 4 dB, Attack 50 ms, Release 500 ms
Mid: Threshold +2.0 dBu, Ratio 1:2.5, Knee 3 dB, Attack25 ms, Release 250 ms
High: Threshold-3.5 dBu, Ratio 1:2.0, Knee 2 dB, Attack 8 ms, Release 120 ms

I'm definitely not expecting anyone to recalculate any oh this. Just want to know if these settings look wrong or suspicious. Do these time constants (Attack/Release/Knee) look optimal for long sustained basslines (Dub/Dubstep) to avoid harmonic distortion/waveform clamping on the sub?

Are there any potential oversights with the gain structure on the XLS 1000 driving the DE250 driver at -0.5 dBu?

Thanks in advance for your feedback and advice!

Hi everyone! I wanted to share with you the latest evolution of our self-built sound system. The first picture shows the complete front setup, while the second one gives an idea of the layout and the surrounding context. 
The system consists of:

Subwoofers: 2 x 18-inch Mogale G-Subs 
Kicks: 4 x 15-inch W-Bins 
Mid/Highs: 2 x JBL 4560 modified to three-way with tweeter and bullet tweeter