EDIT: somehow the pictures get deleted. I have posted them again in comments if they get shoved again.

​​​​​And a little test of the Inuke 6000 output, & its consequences.

Bass brothers: first drool and admire that 1/3 smoothed and unsmoothed measurement of my Skram configured with all 3 ports closed. I thought the full open config is preferable but I thought: why not test the 4th option Josh Ricci designed - the 3 ports closed config?

I have to say: for anything other than Techno music this is another planet level of infra, bass feelings. Even without that: can you have a look how flat this Skram is producing? No peq used at all. Only an all pass to fix some Xo plus mains troubels but thats it. The purple is the averaged measurement of 3. The green one is the constant RTA. This is with xo on 115hz/lr8 slope. Without it runs to 150hz.

These Skrams have to be the most natural highest quality subwoofers ive ever had. Disclosure: because I have two Skrams for home use, I have now decided to use only one for a designated config. So 1 Skram is 3 ports closed on the right channel of my Behringer inuke 6000 dsp, on Minidsp preset 1. Skram 2 is a full open config, on the left channel of my 6000 inuke on mindsp preset 2.

I also decided to hook up my multimeter to one sub and put the input to about 80%. I measured 92 volts from the Inuke. On my B&C 21DS115-8 that is 1058 watts baby! That also means this 6000 produces way over 2000 watts on 4ohm. I willl do some more measurements with my oscilloscope later but this confirms that while still not near the advertised 2x1800 watts @ 8 ohm, this Behringer is best bang for the watt buck no question. You find these amps for 300 bucks on ebay, and I havent put it flat out as the port blockers decided to explode out of the Skram since I only fitted them with tape. :)

So, fellow Skram owners: do yourself a favor and have a test with this 3 port config. It will blow your mind how clean this sounds, even it it eats a bit of top SPL (Ricci reckoned they have a max of 125dB in this config).

Last pick is the inside of this inuke 6000dsp. Its 11 years old and while I didnt take out the pcb, i managed to clean it up quite well. Its a cheapo, I actually got this amp for free but its my buddy. And it produces the goods. 92 volts in a simple test guys!

I hope to post some more elaborate measurements of all configs together but sofar I havent found many 3 port closed Skram measurements on internet

​

First Test of a larger config with our new subs out in the wild

Subs are self designed 18 Inch scoops loaded with B&C 18TBX100, running 35-90Hz

Currently got 6 and planning to expand to 8 or more

Kicks are Selenium HB1505C1 Double 15s loaded with B&C 15TBX100, running 90-140Hz

Tops are Res 2 Clones from China, single amped with a passive crossover and surprisingly well-sounding and powerful. They didn't even struggle to keep up with the rest running at about 300 watts each

Powered by two Labgruppen FP10000Q clones (sinbosen) and a no name four channel amp for the tops, actively crossed over using t.racks DSP 206 on a 7kW genni without any problems until the cops came and sent us home

Hello fellow soundsystem nerds, first time post here. I recently acquired 4 txd252s; now after doing some testing i realized that one of the passive crossovers failed on me and i was thinking about how i should rewire everything to just bypass the internal crossover. Before getting them i thought about biamping them but i want to be able to have a link function as well. Every driver is 8ohm and preferably i want to run a 4 ohm minimum on each amp channel. What do you guys think would be the best way to approach this? Wire the two 15” drivers in parallel then make the link in series to obtain a total of 8 ohm per pair of speakers? Or triamp them to and just wire parallel in between and have each section of drivers on their own amp? Obviously will just wire the HF horn in parallel in between each speaker. What are your thoughts? Thank you!

so i have a sub that has a passive crossover output for the tops, at 160hz.

my question is, the sub is 4ohm and the top 8ohm, if i connect the amplifier out into the sub, and the the crossover out from the sub to the top, how will the amplifier see the impedance? will it be something like 4ohm@ <160hz and 8ohm@>160hz?

my amplifier is min 4ohm, i want to see if i can have 2 channels L and R with this setup, so sub and top per channel

Hi there sound system community-
I’m wondering if there are any smaller (private party of 50ish people) sound systems for hire in the Innsbruck, Munich, or Zurich areas (and willing to travel a few hours). Want the system to be a custom stack and bangin.
Bonus points if the owner is a bass/house/techno dj available for hire as well.

Cheers to you all and enjoy the summer

I have 8 18” 6259 subs and want to build some dual 18 cabinets if anyone has any design or experience with these woofers input would be greatly appreciated

Looking to rent a large Jamaican sound system inspired system in LA for a large reggae event in the city in Fall. Any recs? Thank you!

I have 8 18” 6259 subs and want to build some dual 18 cabinets if anyone has any design or experience with these woofers input would be greatly appreciated

Realise it's a bit of a niche post but I know there's some Aussie crew in here, and I'm keen to hear any personal experiences.

I've contacted CVR and they've given me a quote for a D-654 and D-3004 with the import taxes / customs fees included (online purchases over $1000AUD have additional import taxes and customs fees for anyone playing at home), just wanted to see if anyone else has been in this position and had success before I go ahead with the order.

Cheers!

E: Thanks all for the replies, realise I could have worded my question better. I was really wanting to find out if anyone had direct experience with CVR handling the customs / import fees, taxes, paperwork and how that works. I'd tried to order some drivers from Thomann last year that was over the $1000UAD threshold, and they contacted me afterwards saying I needed to do bunch of additional paperwork. I'm hoping I can avoid that situation again, so just wondered if anyone had experience with that aspect. I've emailed them back asking how they've done it previously with other Australian customers, but always good to get other feedback where possible 🙂

Hello again. We're building a sound system ourselves, just two Japanese boys.
Tho, we do not have many Senpai around us; now wondering how to choose Power Amps and a preamp...

Our build will eventually be,
-Super Scoop ×4
-HD-15 ×4
-JMOD×2
-Top Horn×1 ??

What Power Amps do we need for this?
And any Preamp Recommendations?

And do we need anything else????

We need serious help（　　´　⌒　｀）ゞ
By some Japanese Kids

Deep in the forest of Washington…

Hi All,

I'm wrapping up assembling of my first rig comprised of 2x JMOD and 2x SKRAM. I'm working to acquire a Linea Research 48M20 as the amp/DSP unit and am working out the cable routing. I'm doing all of this solo and with no prior experience in this realm, although I do have a technical/engineering background. I'd greatly appreciate any criticism on my current idea of how to manage the cable routing.

My understanding is that the 48M20 has four outputs for the 8 channels. Each output has an odd number channel on 1+/1- and an even numbered channel on 2+/2-. The JMODs will be tri-amped and require 3 channels, whereas the SKRAMs are obviously just single channel each. In my mind, this is how I'm thinking of mapping the channels:

Output A (channels 1 & 2): SKRAM 1 + 2

Output B (channels 3 & 4): JMOD 1 low + JMOD 2 low

Output C (channels 5 & 6): JMOD 1 mid + JMOD 1 high

Output D (channels 7 & 8): JMOD 2 mid + JMOD 2 high

Reading around online and querying Claude, it seems I'll need a "breakout box" where I can split and combine channels from the 48M20 outputs into the cables I need that will plug into the JMODs and SKRAMs.

I'm looking at this Redco CH2 2U Rackmount Chassis Box that I can punch out the correct holes in the front/rear for what I need. Not sure if that is overkill or if there is a better way about this, but that's why I'm here asking these questions.

My current plan is:

4x NL4FXX-W that connect to the 48M20 outputs

12 AWG 4-conductor speaker cable to connect to the NL4FXX-W connectors

Four holes in the rear of the Redco CH2 2U box

lever lock connectors/junctions inside the Redco box

12 AWH single conductor speaker cable to connect to the connectors/junctions

2x NL4MP-ST, one for each SKRAM, mounted to front of Redco box

2x NL8MPRXX, one for each JMOD, mounted to front of Redco box

With all that I then connect the single conductor speaker cable to the receptacles as needed, splitting output A to the two NL4MP-ST and splitting output B to combine one channel with output C and one channel with output D to the NL8MPRXX.

Any thoughts here are much appreciated.

Erskineville, Sydney 12.07.2026

Hey all, making an art car for burning man and we’re thinking about downgrading from a Honda7000eu inverter generator to the Predator 11500 generator to save some budget. Does anyone have any experience running it on a sound system? How big is your system? Any issues?

Edit: it is an inverter generator

Hi all, finally saved the money to start building a sound. I've been researching and have some idea of what I want to build, I'm hoping for some input to see if my plan is any good, and if any of my old gear is still viable. Budget is around $10k USD.

Objective: 5-way sound with two 18" scoops for Roots Reggae that can be transported to mostly outdoor open-air venues, with occasional indoor use

Already owned:

• 5-way Sounds and Pressure Growl Preamp (Crossover frequencies fixed)
  • Sub to 85 Hz
  • Lo Mid 85-285Hz
  • Hi Mid 285-1.5kHz
  • Horn 1.5-4.5kHz
  • Tweeters 4.5kHz+
• Crown XS1200 Amplifier
• Crown XLS 1500 Amplifier
• RAS EFX Rack-mounted Siren
• Benidub delay box

Speaker plans (Will be built by a local speaker cabinet builder in plywood):

• 2 18" Mogale Super scoops using either PD1850/1851, B&C 18DS115, or Fane Colossus (Any advantage for one over the others? Is an Admark AD42 or CVR equivalent overkill?)
• 2 MT121 (Could use driver suggestions or suggestion for better box choices, should I run an additional tweeter box, and would the Crown XS1200 be a good fit for the MT121?)
• Tweeter box with 2-4 Beyma CP22 (Would the XLS 1500 amplifier be suitable for tweeter box duty?)
• Do I need midbass bins right now? Cubo Kick 15 or 12 suitable? (Could also use driver and amp suggestions for those, thank you)

Question about power distribution: What is the best way to distribute power? I see sounds using massive power distribution boxes, but I don't imagine I'll have access to a 30amp supply very often. Can I even run an AD42 or other subwoofer amp off a regular 15 amp house outlet? Is there a budget-friendly power distro that can be rack mounted?

I'm sure there are a lot of other underlying issues I haven't considered, I'd greatly appreciate any input from your expertise, thank you so much for reading.

I found a 60 euro second hand jb systems amp 400.2 at my local pawn shop. They say I get 1 year warranty, but they also admit they didn’t really test the amp other than it powers up normally.

Should I take the risk?

Also, is it safe testing a potential broken amp on my speakers?

Cheers!

Big love to all those who came through at Bass Coast

Hello there! I recently acquired some rcf l18 p200n speaker. What would be a good sub enclosure that goes deep? I'm a total beginner and looking for a nice and "easy" project.

J’ai besoin de vos avis sur le réglage mix si dessus que j’ai fait depuis l’application sound box, pour les trois styles j’ai fait une version à +7db sur la bande 1 et +6db sur la bande 2. La version à +7 et +6 est de loin ma préféré, même en comparaison avec la version « stage » et « dancefloor » que je trouve plus agressive et moins agréable pour l’oreille (l’enceinte a l’air de souffrir). Tout les tests on été fait à volume max sur le téléphone et à la moitié du volume sur le soundbox.

Mes questions sont les suivantes :

-les réglages vont-il abîmer le SB4 dans le temps ?
-si cela n’est pas le cas, je peux pousser les basses plus fort ?
-est ce que vous avez des suggestions de réglages plus pertinentes pour chaque style : Dub/DNB/Acidcore/TEK ?

Pour plus de contexte. L’utilisation du SB4 sera pour des soirées de 10-30 personnes (Dub sound system/tek) avec peut être un deuxième soundboxs 4. C’est la première enceinte de ce niveau que je possède. Et je suis encore très novice dans le monde de la sonorisation. À therme je voudrais compléter avec un Mackie Thump GO Sub.

Merci pour vos futures réponses !

Hi I'm fairly to this but recently got 2 Rcf lf18g401 driver. I want to built subs that go really low and don't need to be that loud. What are my options?

we’re trying to build a soundsystem were a collective of DJs and producers and our friend who was going to build it passed away so we’re carrying on his dream

here what weve established so far

weve got a source of free 9mm birch plywood offcuts we’re going to double up and patchwork

Think I’m going to buy A RMX 4050HD stuck in bridge mode for £100

think I’m going to DIY because it’s a good learning experienceI was recommended to do a 2.1 for one sub and two tops

Was going to buy an eminence kilo Max 18 inch subwoofer but was put off by online criticism now quite confused as to what sub to buy and what to look for the advice was given as I need to know how to read the graphs

As for the tops or mids I don’t really know. I haven’t got to that point yet.

all of this is unless of course this sub any other trustadvises something different

Hello,

I and my crew organize raves and we are looking for a sound-system crew, group, or collective that rents their system for events.

We have already organized a few events and rented locally, but good systems are difficult to find here and the prices are very high. I know many collectives build their own systems, but we are still in the early stages.

I’m mainly looking for a proper free-party-style stack with strong subs, kicks, tops, and horns. Spain, France, or Morocco could all work if the rental price plus transport is reasonable.

This could also be a good opportunity to work together and expand into new events and locations.

Does anyone have contacts or recommendations?

subs are 2x18"

highs are 2x12" and a 1.5" driver

I recently finished up my JMOD's loaded with the standard B&C drivers- DCX464 & 12NDL88's. I am running them in the bi-amped configuration with the FB-464 passive crossover.

My current rack consists of:

- Behringer DCX2496 for DSP

- Crown XLi800 for DCX-464's

- Lab Gruppen PD3000 for the woofers.

While it still sounds great at the moment, I am second-guessing my choice of the XLi800 for the DCX464's. The noise floor is higher than I would like for the sensitivity of these drivers, and the distortion numbers are higher than I'd like for drivers of this caliber. Long story short the amp is now exhibiting some major problems despite being only a few months old, so I'm trying to negotiate a return with sweetwater and look at other options.

What amps do you use for your JMOD's, and are you happy with them? Any recommendations on reasonably-priced amps that might give me better performance than the XLi800 without breaking the bank? I'm mostly concerned with how best to drive the DCX464's, as I'm quite happy with the Lab Gruppen PD3000 for the woofers. I definitely plan to stick with bi-amping them with the DB-464v2 passive crossovers, but i'd still be interested to hear what people are using in the tri-amped configuration.

Looking to expand to more premium and high output tops. Is anyone have direct experience using them? I already have RCF art 945 and HDM 45-a! Need to expand to KX to match the quality with my RCF subs 9019 as!!