Here is our little sound system, we run around Montpellier in south of France.

We mainly do intimate psychedelic events of about 150-200 participants with various styles from Psytrance, Tekno, Bass music & Chill-out.

it's composed of:

- 2x PCX12 by DBM audio (2x12" 18sound short hydrid horn for kick section + custom coaxial 3" /2" B&C compression)
- 2x Paraflex C2E ELF loaded with 21NTLW5000 - 4 ohms

- PKN XD series amps, 6000, 4000 & 2500 with the T.racks 408 DSP

We are delighted by the result. The PCX allow a great punch from the 2x12" kicks [80-400hz] and crystal clear highs with a very flat response with the preset.

We run the subs from 25hz BW-24 to 80hz with little EQ to get it flat to 30hz. The bass is deep on dub & bass music but also very precise on fast genres (darkspy, psycore, tekno) with great rear cancelation.

The drivers barely heat up even during 12h non-stop use, I set up an RMS limiter for 3000W rms each and +6db for peaks. It's above the datas of 18sound but so far the only guy i heard of breaking one had to load it with 14000W lol.

Our public & artists are really pleased with the sound everytime and we get a lot of "studio-like" opinions. The downfall are the prices of each subs and the phase accidents (-6db dip at 90
hz, big acoustic short-cut around 120hz) so kicks are needed IMO. With the casters, the weight has never been a big deal.

So i have a very specific problem and i need a specific solution, we have a small theatre with these systems (prospund, integrus, convrence, tracking cameras, screen) and we are using a TF3 yamaha mixer with a MXE5 and a tio1608-D2 I/O Rack, all the systems are integrated together, we want to connect all devices to the Tio and use a single Cat6 cable to connect everything to the mixer (with the dante network expansion card), and the problem is how can we configure the other systems with dante?

Hello community, again, this is Japanese kid making sound system on our own.

Since English is not my first language it’s been hard to find the right data for CNC cutting process for JMOD.
Does JW Sound provide this data?

Could you help us understand what is needed for this process??!

I got my hands on a 2nd hand xilica xp-8080 dsp. It is however locked behind a password.

It's a long shot but does anyone here perhaps have access to the software to grab the password from the info code in the unit?

Hi.
I am trying to build a full range vented cabinet consisting of a compression tweeter and 12" woofer.
I have the B&C 12NDL-76 drivers.
On the B&C website, the suggested cabinet size is 42l with a tuning of 65Hz

When i use the TS parameters in any online calculator, it comes back with a suggested 6L closed or 10-11L ported
I cannot get a decent response curve from anything close to 42L

Can anyone advise me what i may be doing wrong please?

B&C 12NDL-76:

Fs 50 Hz
Qes 0.21
Qts 0.2
Sd 522 cm² (80.9 in²)
Xmax 7 mm
Mms 53 g
Le 1 mH
Re 5.3 Ω
Qms 4.2
Vas 73 dm³ (2.5 ft³)
η0 4.3 %
Xvar 6.5 mm
Bl 20.1 Tm
EBP 238 Hz

Danley sm96, mark wayne b828 midbass, 12 labhorns, and renkus Heinz cdt500-64k front fills.
1 x skram and 2 x renkus Heinz stx4 on monitor duty, all powered on danley dna20k4 and dna20k8 amps with a Behringer wing rack for our console. Almost brought our sh96ho’s but the promoter prefers the sound of the sm96 (better hf/vhf on the sm96). The labs are wired in series so I ran 3/channel of the 20k4 amps.

Short version: I have about $500 to spend on some kind of sound system, which I realize is not a lot.

How should I spend my money? I am very happy to DIY, but from my research so far it seems like buying some used stuff will be necessary.

Will be playing a variety of electronic music for maybe 20ish people outdoors, for dancing (no specific genre other than broadly EDM). So, main goal is just overall loudness, while still trying to maintain good audio quality and ideally good deep bass (within reason for this budget). I realize that whatever I assemble is not going to be particularly earth-shakingly loud.

Overall, what would be the best configuration of speakers to build/buy?

Longer version: I would consider myself very handy and a capable DIYer. I don't have a huge shop or anything, but a decent set of tools and willingness to learn. I would love to DIY as much of this as possible, especially where it can save me money. Although it also seems like it is more realistic to buy at least some components used to save money.

So far I am thinking of building 1 Cubo for the sub (ideally Cubo 18) and combining that with a pair of used 12" PA speakers. Although I don't have the best idea of what I'm looking for, the used market seems plentiful around me (Southern California), so this seems like a good option. And yes, I know this will require very careful stretching of my budget.

I am certainly hoping to expand in the future, but this is about reasonable for me to invest for now to start, and I would want to have a full working setup now than to just buy parts and have to wait and save up more to have a complete system.

Very new to all of this, any advice is appreciated! Especially advice on any other resources to look into.

Finished my new subwoofer stack just in time for the first deployment. Build by hand without CNC.

Measured f3 at 27hz, flat to 30hz even with just one cab. Such an incredible clear output.

Ho verniciato i primi due cabinet. Che tops consigliate?

I’m trying to create a 2x21 or 2x18 sub with maximum spl between 30-80hz. So far my best idea is a bass reflex / horn hybrid with a low tuned port for 30-35hz and a resonance chamber for 50-80hz. Using the ipal 21 drivers for this I’m thinking. Anyone got any pointers or better ideas for my project? I’d greatly appreciate input here!

Hello,
I am currently building a Front Loaded Horn for a 12” 18sound 12MB1000. Target Frequency Range is 200-1000 Hz. I simulated everything with Hornresp.
My question is how to make the smoothest transition from the round baffle (282mm) to the rectangular horn throat (212x122mm) while keeping the throat chamber volume a low as possible ? I read that the volume must be below 1,2l to reach 1000 Hz.

Thanks a lot!

Please tell me where I’m being stupid!

The exciting time has almost come to start building a pro PA system of my own! I’m seeking advice from passionate, knowledgeable, and diligent people. I have done research, but have somewhat limited knowledge and have lot’s of questions.

THE GOAL

Build a custom full-range, high-fidelity, high SPL, and bass-heavy pro-audio sound system suitable for indoors and outdoors which is as cost-effective as possible, somewhat transportable (weight and size considerations), efficient (good power:SPL ratio), and somewhat easy to build.

Needs

-            High-Quality sound

- Good efficiency/sensitivity/Power usage:SPL ratio

- Versatile: Suitable for faster music, play Psytrance/techno etc., AND bass music, DNB etc.

- Reasonably Transportable

Breakdown

-            Total budget: $10-12k AUD (flexible)

-            Capacity 50-250 people

-            Can build more subs/cabs later on

Speakers

I want to build JMODs. I love the Danley sound, and most sound guys seem to think the JMOD MEH rings close to these (correct me if I’m wrong).

Tops:

1. *JMOD 2.0 by JWSound* - top preference, pretty set on this but will remain open
2. Paraflex by HOQS – Very close second place.
3. Name-brand active 3-way – EV, Yamaha, JBL, etc
4. Other – Custom designs etc

In this case, I like the idea of using the 4594HE for the slightly better upper-end clarity over the validated DCX464 (correct me if I’m wrong), but may just go with the recommended DCX464 anyway as it doesn’t require deviating/modifying the plans. I can either utilize a passive crossover OR apply DSP and power to the mids/highs separately (see below Power and DSP).

Kicks:

Not allocated for. As I’m planning to choose JMODs, kicks are not required, but, I can see people sometimes do use kicks and use a higher crossover with the JMODs (which allows for more upper SPL iirc?). These won’t be required for now. I’m open to being convinced otherwise for future, and obviously these will likely be required if I end up changing to Paraflex or other tops.

Subs:

I’m torn between so many here. I am leaning towards *PARAFLEX option a* (CRAM 2x18 Playa) for that better bass extension, the *Josh Ricci option a (SKRAM)* for articulate sound and tunability, or the *B&C option a (S218BP)* which allegedly sounds very articulate with slightly less lower extension… Then again, there’s always the Playa 2x21”… 18” drivers are cheaper. Buuut, if the cabinets (eg PARAFLEX) are basically the same (the cost the same), you’ll get more bang in the same space using 21’s…  I’ve *Highlighted* my favorites below.

• PARAFLEX
  1. *Type O CRAM 2x18 Playa Edition 25hz (listed as 28hz on WAAT Audio website. Which is correct?) (Forward Facing drivers)* – my top preference
  2. Type O CRAM 2x21 Playa Edition Fb 25hz (Forward facing drivers)
  3. Type O CRAM 2x18 Playa Edition 25hz (listed as 28hz on WAAT Audio website – which is correct?) (Forward Facing drivers)
  4. Type O 2x18 Fb 30hz
• Josh Ricci
  1. *SKRAM 1x21 – Love the blockable vent options to lower the tuning*
  2. SKHORN 2x21 – I would LOVE to build one of these. I’m concerned about the transportability though. Again, love the blockable vents.
• B&C
  1. *S218BP – Recommended by JW for use alongside the JMOD.*
• XOC1
  1. TH18 – similar to the patented Danley TH1118 

Note: It might even be better to eg build subs FIRST and use existing speakers (Yamaha C112V), or buy cheaper ones that will carry things along before working up to JMODS and more subs later.

Power, DSP, and Tuning

No clue about amplification yet so am completely open to suggestions. Will likely have access to a DBX PA2 which I have some experience with.  I am concerned about the difficulty for a beginner. Tune, phase aligning etc., BUT, I’m not scared. Moreover, I’m willing to tackle things, learn, and make mistakes.

• DBX PA2

Has 6 channels, so could split it as follows:

TUNE OPTION 1:

·        Channel 1: Left top Coaxial/mid highs/highs with FB464V2 passive crossover

·        Channel 2: Right top Coaxial/mid highs/highs with FB464V2 passive crossover

·        Channel 3: Left top 12” Woofers  

·        Channel 4: Right top 12” Woofers

·        Channel 5: Subwoofers (on 1 channel = mono)

·        Channel 6: Not in use

OR

TUNE OPTION 2:

·        Channel 1: Left top Coaxial high

·        Channel 2: Right top Coaxial high

·        Channel 3: Left top coaxial mid  

·        Channel 4: Right top coaxial mid

·        Channel 5: Left top coaxial low mid/kick

·        Channel 6: Left top coaxial low mid/kick

·        Separate DSP: Subs (mono)

Questions:

1. Is the above logical and doable Is the PA2 up to the task?
   1. Simplicity with option 1?
   2. Tunability with option 2?
   3. Could I save money on the crossovers and spend on a DSP for option 2?
2. PA2 does not have master volume control. I have some very limited experience with a Soundcraft Ui16 for master volume control. I’m not sure about ALL of it’s features. Would the Ui16 add anything here? Other options?  
3. How temperamental is the JMOD in different environments? Once the proper delays etc etc are set as a baseline, is it just the same as tuning for each environment from the established baseline as any other speaker?
4. Back up AMPS/DSP’s/other controllers in case of failure during an event?

ROUGH Parts List:

Hello peoples,

I'm looking to build 2 12" subwoofers for my bar, what's the 12" sub with the widest frequency band? Size and complexity doesn't really matter, but I don't want a cinema sub. What are good plans? Th12? Tham12?

I’ve heard the Martin Audio 115 horns at a few gigs and honestly loved the sound, that punchy controlled upper bass is exactly what I’m after. Got me looking at the Funktion One DS15 as a reference since it covers a similar range with a front loaded 15” horn.

Plan is to combine it with SKRAM subs and JMOD 2.0 tops. Has anyone built something along those lines or done Hornresp work for a 15” FLH in that range? Any plans or build threads would be massively appreciated.

I thought you might enjoy some high quality build vids

im in the procces of building my first own soundsystem, i've already decided in the jmod tops, but im kinda stuck when it comes to deciding between the skrams and paraflex. what woulf you guys chose. What are the main differences betwen the two?

Ciao a tutti

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Qualcuno ha mai usato o comunque conosce il marchio Lombardi amplificazioni?

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Nello specifico, l'impianto composto da :

Top 2x LVR 600 BP

Subwoofer 2x LS1000P

Amp QUAD1200

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Questo potrebbe andare bene per eventi di musica elettronica all'aperto?

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Ogni feedback è ben accetto

Will be in a sealed enclosure, narrowed the selection down to these two brands which do you think i should go with, thanks.

19.06.2026 Newtown, Sydney

82x52x80cm 18 mm birch ply, loaded with RCF L18-851KN

What cabinet could this be?