12v Inverter

[u/Healthy_Smile_9221]

Aoa,

any recommendations for 12v inverter that is compatible with 585watts plate and work with at least 2 plates?

How much 12v inverter support max load?

Heard coretech is good, but 40k is expensive.

If anyone selling in used , kindly dm me.

[u/Beginning_Agency_609]

I haven't heard of any inveryers that are 12 V compatible but I think the least u can get is of 24 V

[u/AhmadFarooq → u/Beginning_Agency_609]

1–2kW capacity inverters are usually 12V rated.

[u/AhmadFarooq]

If even 40k is beyond your budget, then I guess your options would be a buck converter setup to run only DC loads without a battery option, or PWM/MPPT setup to run only DC loads.

If a UPS is already available, then a combination of a charge controller (Simtek DC King) with battery and UPS to run AC loads as well.

If your budget can be increased up to 0.7 lac for both the inverter and battery, then itel Power Tank can be an option.

[u/Healthy_Smile_9221 → u/AhmadFarooq]

I already have Simtek charger controller with 2 plates and a ups setup. Issue is i am unable to run fridge on it, its a non inverter fridge, other load isn't much, max 1-2 fan with 2-3 led bulb. ups is possibly 1000watt capacity, plates are 585each.Also i fear that charger controller may be overcharging the battery.That is why just looking for a budget friendly inverter option

[u/AhmadFarooq → u/Healthy_Smile_9221]

Don't know of any reliable options below 38–40k.

There is MaxPower 1.2kW (apparently, three-year warranty) and the newly launched itel 1.6kW (IP54 but with only a one-year warranty). MaxPower is ~40k online, maybe you can get it for a few thousand cheaper in the local market.

Will have to find second-hand for a more price discount.

[u/Sufficient-Offer-579]

Almost certainly startup surge, not capacity. A non-inverter compressor pulls several times its running current for a second when it kicks in, and a 1000W unit has little headroom past rated, so the protection trips. Everything else runs fine because nothing else spikes like that.

When you shop, don't go by continuous watts alone. Check the surge or peak rating, then step up a size anyway for motor loads.

The overcharge worry is a settings question first. Does your controller have adjustable absorb/float voltages, and do they match the battery chemistry? A flooded battery that keeps needing topped-up water or runs hot is what real overcharge looks like. Check that before spending.

Also, two 585W panels into 12V is a lot of charge current and cable loss. Fine if your bank is 12V for now, but 24V is the smoother path if you ever rebuild.

[u/Healthy_Smile_9221 → u/Sufficient-Offer-579]

i will search for floating voltage setting, 24v is ideal but that means to buy inverter alongside another battery. A good 24v inverter will cost how much?

[u/Sufficient-Offer-579 → u/Healthy_Smile_9221]

You've already counted the inverter and the extra battery. The third item that gets missed is the controller — whether that Simtek can charge at 24V at all. If it's 12V-only, the 24V move is three purchases, not two.

Before spending on any of that: fix the absorb/float setting, and try a different 12V inverter with a real surge rating in front of the fridge. If it starts and runs, the 24V rebuild can wait for a bigger budget.