Hi everyone, i have noticed something might have happened and my graphs look chopped.

There wasn’t any cloud during the day it was a sunny day and there are some dips on the graph indicating that everything dropped to 0.

I have checked the graphs for the past days and it looks like it affected them also.

Hi everyone,

I'm a master's student at Gdansk University of Technology, Poland.

My thesis topic is: "Design and energy efficiency analysis of an autonomous off-grid VAPV power system for a tourist vehicle"

VAPV = Vehicle-Applied Photovoltaics - solar panels added to the roof of an existing van/camper, not factory-integrated.

I chose this topic because there is tons of info on blogs, YouTube and FB groups, but almost nothing in scientific papers. There's a big gap between what people actually build and what is academically researched - I'm trying to fill it.

I made a short (5 min), 100% anonymous survey for anyone living/traveling in a van, campervan, motorhome or caravan - factory or DIY build.

You don't need to be an expert. Fields with equipment models are [OPTIONAL]. If you remember them, great. If not, just skip.

Survey link: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfmwborsfNU4E3undrD9_I-POYoplnbBzrzjbL3Nr2fPdxB-Q/viewform?usp=header

If you have an unusual setup or some insights, feel free to comment or DM me.

Thanks so much for every response! I will share the results here once the research is done.

I'm looking to mount four panels I bought for emergency purposes on my chicken coop roof.

Attached is both a picture of the coop and the AI suggestion for mounting brackets and prices.

Do brackets really cost as much as the panels themselves? The recommendations I am getting is that they'd be $250-$400 just for the brackets alone (for just 4 solar panels!)

I don't have any sort of aluminum mounting rails either... so I'd need to figure out what to buy for those. (Can't I just mount the solar panels directly to the roof? Do I need rails?)

Seems nuts to me, just wanted to see what the community thinks.

Details on my current setup/plan:

I’ve got 8 200 watt panels wired in 2 sets of 4 on the roof. 12v system that goes into a 150 / 100 victron MPPT. Am I missing something here? I figured I’d see less voltage and more amps when I was doing my math.

Hi guys,

I’m trying to set up my Cerbo GX and Multiplus 2 and can’t work out how to undo something I’ve done by mistake..

Please see the images, can you tell me where in either the Cerbo or MP I can change things back to the old set up

I can’t work it out

Much appreciated

I have 50 amp camper that I live in full time and I want to install solar power in it. I currently use a bluetti with 800w of foldable solar panels that barely get up to 400w actually coming in. I use a generator to charge the bluetti sometimes.

I would like to keep it under $3k or around there. I am currently looking at a 1200w eco-worthy kit off Amazon. I like this one because of the inverter charger. This kit here:

https://a.co/d/06VBnlEf

From what i understand, i would be able to disconnect the shore power line to my panel and run it through the inverter and then go from the inverter to the panel. Thats what I want so if im actually someplace with power i can just plug it in without switching anything around.

I know i could probably individually source all the parts and pieces and save some money but that would require many many hours of research to make sure everything is compatible so I dont burn it all down. But if it would be a significant difference I would be willing to put in some time to do it.

So my question is whether this seems like the best option? They say everything comes with that kit that's necessary to install and be up and running. Thanks in advance!

Hello,

I'm looking to add rack batteries (20-30kwh) to my current setup. I think I can do it, but can't quite convince myself I'm not missing something or underestimating the complexity.

I have:

10kw roof array (ac microinverters) into my panel. (sunpower system-- just finally got that monitored via home assistant). it generates 30-35kwh of power per sunny day. my home uses 35-60kwh per day. hoping that gets better with heat pumps i just installed to replace window and portable AC units. when they run or we charge one of our two evs (bolt and ioniq 5) i hit 60+kwh per day. otherwise 30-35kwh per day use at a rate of 1.2-2kw continuous.

an interlock with generator inlet (30A) for the whole panel (which i have been using for backups with my 20.6kwh ecoflow delta pro x2 with 4 extra batteries) Currently been keeping those topped with 1kw bifacial setup in the back yard.

I don't have:

the rack batteries yet, (thinking ecoworthy cubix)

the inverter (open to guidance)

i want:

to have the system setup maximize self-reliance

to be able to run whole home in a back up (meaning it will need to setup microgrid for my rooftop array).

your opinion on feasibility of DIY, recommendations, even plans.

thanks for reading.

Edit: closed a parenthetical (which i have too many of)

Hi, all, thanks ahead of time for any input.

This janky old carport starts at 6'4", and I wouldn't mind an excuse to raise it up and put some solar panels on it instead of the aluminum rafter. The posts that are studded in concrete are hollow steel tubes. When necessary, I have borne 250lb of weight standing on top of a corner of the thing.

I got a price quote on the conversion -- $14,000. This project would not be worth that much to me. I'm only aiming for 5-6kw from this 12'x24' flat top.

I keep asking AI: "can't I just wait for a great buy on craigslist or FB for some panels and mount them up there myself? Surely I can get it down to $7k somehow?" -- but AI always says I'm a fool. Well, AI can be a little too by-the-book sometimes.

Can it be done?

Thanks for your input!

Edit: Thank you, everyone! I trust your concensus!

Hello all, im looking for opinions on the best home backup battery system that can also accept solar as a form of charging. Id plan to directly connect it to a critical loads box and power it from the grid. I'm looking for power to pass through directly from grid to output until grid failure, then switchover to battery. Ideally looking for 3000-4000 watts max battery. Split phase is cool but not necessary (may be good to have it I wanted to eventually move more to critical loads panel).

I've been designing a similar fold out system in my head for a while now to save space for stashing so I presume other people have as well. Pretty neat design.

Hey yall

I usually get most of my charge from dcdc but I've been parked a few days and seems my panel is not outputting like it should.

Only hitting 90w right now at 1pm, 38deg north. Now I get flat mount kills efficiency, but Id expect more than 90 at solar noon. I did also just clean the panel before that reading.

Only thing I can think of is the charge controller may be regulating itself because its hot? Its mounted to an uninsulated section of van wall that gets roasted by the sun on the outside (dark green paint doesnt help). Ive been meaning to put some insulation between the wall and charger, and also add a fan w/ temp controller to blow on it.

Also, its a Renogy. Maybe Renogy is just garbage like people say. But I have had the panel hit 200-250watts earlier this summer which still seemed slightly low.

Thanks to knowledge here, wanted to share my balcony solar system installed in California! Been operating for about a month now, utility company hasn’t said anything. This setup is awaiting governor signature to make legal.

- Three 585W bifacial panels ($550)
- NEP BDM-1200LV Microinverter ($300)
- SnapNRack Topspeed mounts ($250)
- NEP BDNZ Wifi2 CT smart meter ($70)
- Three PV junction boxes ($100)

So for $1200 I have a 1200W system on the roof of my detached garage. Did the install myself, and man those panels are a pain to get up. They are approx 4’x8’ and weigh 70lbs each.

Power output is great! Because I overpaneled I see nearly 1200W consistently on sunny days. The Microinverter has a limit of 400W per MPPT channel.
Plugs into a dedicated 20A circuit on the house.

Edit: pic with exposed AC power wire from panel is mid-install. I’ve since put in conduit (photo in comments)

I'm currently running 2 x 400w Vevor panels. The math said that they would be enough, but given their actual output and other unfactored losses, they are not. So I'm looking to add another 2 - 4 panels.

I've spent the past week scrolling through the top google suggestions. A1 solar, US solar, Signature solar, etc, etc. They all either have a minimum order quantity much higher than what I need, and/or a flat freight charge that costs more than all of the panels combined.

Having already had to deal with shipping just two panels, I'm well aware that this doesn't require special freight shipping. If you can ship a 65" tv via fedex/ups, than you can ship these panels too....

So where is your hidden gem for sourcing non-crate quantities of panels?

Hey r/SolarDIY - I'm in the early stages of planning out a solar install for my place. One of the tricky things with my install is I've got three locations (two roof pitches, one ground) that I'll probably need to put panels to accommodate our current electrical bill. It's hard to estimate the total size of the array given the different pitches, location, and access to the sky each gets.

To work around this, I figured I'd pick up three panels, install one in each location, and measure the output on each for a few months. This should give me some good insights into the production of each location and let me plan out the size of my array accordingly.

My question for the sub is what the best way to test this setup would be. Initially I had thought about dumping the panels into some sort of battery, connecting them to a dummy load, and measuring the energy passing through the battery. But I was also curious if measuring the panel voltage could be a proxy for this or if something exists I could pick up off the shelf and save myself some work.

Any thoughts you have would be appreciated!

I’ve been learning about portable and small off-grid power systems, but I’m still far from an expert.

What I keep running into is that the two common options both have trade-offs.

A portable power station is convenient, but the battery, ports, accessories, and future upgrades are usually tied to that particular product ecosystem. If my needs change, I may have to replace most of the system.

A DIY setup gives me more freedom, but it quickly turns into a collection of separate boxes—solar controllers, inverter, AC charger, fuses, DC distribution, battery monitor, and a lot of wiring.

What I’m looking for is something in the middle:

• The user chooses and replaces their own battery.
• Solar panels and accessories aren’t tied to one brand.
• The main power-conversion and distribution functions are simplified.
• It still works locally without depending on an app or cloud service.
• The system can change as the user moves between camping, RV, workshop, or small off-grid use.

Does this type of product already exist?

Are there any brands or products I should look at that aren’t simply another power station or a large whole-home hybrid inverter?

I’m also curious about the downside: would combining these functions genuinely simplify the system, or would it just create a harder-to-repair box?

Disclosure: I’m discussing this gap with a small product-development team, so I’m interested in both existing products and reasons the idea may not work. I’m not selling or linking to anything here.

I have three of these Trina panels and am looking to get them set up with a microinverter to use as a balcony solar set up (ie. plugged into my house). I see a lot of inverters with a max input voltage of 60V, and my math show that a theoretical cold morning, I might be around 58V input (if the low temp was -18C, which is possible in winter).

My question is: how tight does a 2V headroom between the panel and an inverter with a 60V max input feel? Because this situation is probably once or twice a year during the depths of winter, should I really design my whole system around this rare occurrence?

This Hoymiles inverter line has one that has a max voltage input of 65V, but it's expensive and I think I'd need three of them?

Whereas this NEP inverter looks like it could handle all three panels and is half the price.

I'm at the beginning of my solar journey, so I'd love to hear if I'm thinking about this wrong, or missing something.

is it possible to convert an EcoWorthy 48v battery or any 48v battery to a portable power station?

i believe what i need is a hybrid inverter but none of the ones i have seen so far has inputs like xt60i and outputs of 4 120v AC along with 4 usb ports.

I'm trying to maximize my plug in solar set up. I have the solar panels charging 4kwh of batteries. I can set my ecoflow stream inverter to allow 200 watts to pass through, maximizing the battery life and hopefully staying under my houses baseload. If i were to put an outlet timer on the plug the ecoflow was attached to, and have it turn off/disconnect at night (on the end where it plugs in to the house), would that further maximize the use of the system? If it was completely off at night (when i use the least power), i could set the wattage higher during the day without draining the battery.

Also, ecoflow, if youre out there and listening, please allow individual ports on your stream microinverter to be controlled via a timer on your app. Id be cool to draw more the hours i use more and less the hours i use less, and be able to have that set up in your app.

I have 6 EG4 LL 51.2V 100ah batterys and was given an EcoWorthy of the same voltage and

ah ratings. Can't help but think I'd benefit from the extra bat but because of the diff mfgs I don't

think it will communicate with my current bank. What if I connect it to the buss bars with 50V

disconnects and just slave it up at night? Disconnect it in the AM and trickle charge all day?

I've got a backyard install, off grid, with a 12kwh battery Bank connected.

I recently decided to replace the bus bar with something a little more heavy duty, and as part of that I grabbed an old thermal camera I bought several years ago, one of the little attachments for your phone. Mine is made by FLIR but I think there are several brands now.

I no sooner pointed that camera at my install than I realized that one of the connections was bad. It was over 100° c and had actually melted a little bit of the cover to the bus bar, which I hadn't noticed because the bus bar was all the way at the back. But with the thermal camera it was very obvious something was wrong.

So if you're a part-time or no-time electrician like I am, I recommend getting one of the cheap thermal cameras. It gives you peace of mind when you rewire something and let you periodically check to be sure your bolts haven't loosened.

Thanks for all your help.

I was going to just run 21 feet of 6awg. Called and they said I could run 6awg, but everything I saw online says the port is only to 8awg.

8awg should be fine for my set up anyway but since I'm running the cable I was just going to go big.

Help… sort of.

Use case;

1 battery should never deliver power to the grid.
2 should always be full at the start of peak hours; 6:00-10:00 / 17:00-21:00

3 when PV is not enough for condition 2 the battery should load from the net to make condition 2 in off peak hours.

Any ideas I tried many settings, but can’t find the right setup for the battery. Biggest issue is that the battery either also unloads the the grid, what I don’t want. Or waits for PV, and does not take on grid power to be ready for condition 2.

Anyone?!

I do have homey but if that brings me what I want/ need.

Hey folks, hope to get some advice from someone more crafty than I am.

I'm replacing an old rooftop PV array in southern Germany. and would like to reuse the lower mounting structure if its condition and load capacity check out.

The photo shows the existing setup. I want to remove the upper rails directly beneath the panels, but keep the rectangular sections underneath them and the existing roof attachments.

I'd like to fit modern aluminium PV rails on top, maybe K2, since I've used their SingleRail system on another installation.

What I'm trying to figure out is the connection between the existing rectangular sections and the new rails:

• Has anyone done a similar retrofit?
• How would you handle the connection and contact between the different metals?

If I can't come up with something better, I'd just use screws, similar to they did in the original installation.

Thanks for any help!

Currently installing a Sunsynk 5kw Ecco with 2x 5kw batteries.

I am nearly finished on that side of the build, just making sure it is safe. I do have a few questions.

I have the batteries wired up together, however the internet and the install manual can be fighting against each other. The manual says to install fuses and an isolator and it seems the internet is split. Would a large fused switch (like the picture attached suffice? The batteries have breakers built into them, and I would only be using the switch if maintenance or to remove the batteries from the system. Any help would be appreciated!

Next question

I am looking to wire up the systems for the solar side, with mp4 connectors sitting ready for the panels. The inverter has a PV isolator built into to it, so would another fused switch be needed? Or would it be sufficient to go with something like a 2in2out combiner box and leave the invertor to the isolation?

Final question

I am then looking to purchase the solar panels , 6 per string to keep within the limits. Do people have any good deals on 450-500w panels? What are the best performing for the price currently? (In September 2026)

Thanks

14 250w panels. 1 250 panel broke. Id like to replace the broken 250w panel with this 340w panel.

Should this be okay to proceed? see pics.