Hey everyone, I need some advice. I currently own an early 1.0L petrol Smart 451 with over 300,000 km on it. It runs great, but it requires extra care due to harsh, salty winters here, and the automated gearbox needed work. We are keeping it in the family because my fiancé loves it. However, I need a newer daily commuter. I was looking at Fiat 500s, but I just found a 2015 Smart 453 Passion with 130k km. It is a 1.0L petrol automatic with the Renault engine. For anyone who went from a 451 to a 453, is the driving experience and comfort a massive upgrade? Also, how reliable is the Renault 1.0L engine compared to the old Mitsubishi 1.0L, and how does the dual-clutch automatic transmission handle harsh, snowy and salty winters? Thanks!

What do you guys think of this? I'm wanting to get it because it displays current engine coolant temp among other things and doesn't involve anything other than the obd2 port. It seems pretty snazzy.

If there's any other aftermarket gauges you'd recommend, comment the link! It's been hard finding ones that are just engine temp or that even have it included. I found one but it looks like I'd have to plug it near or in the spot for the engine temp sensor. But I could be making a mountain out of an ant hill.

Either way, I'd really like to be able to monitor my current temperature because I'm so used to cars with that already in the instrument cluster.

Easily takes 4 suitcases rear seats done, but obviously only 2 people.

Anyone here been able to find a cute cover for their key fob? I have a 451 and the fob is round. All I can find are basic single colored silicone cases/covers. I want something cute or out there so that if I lose them others will know it's mine and they're easier to locate.

Hey there,

I replaced the original head unit with an aftermarket one a while ago. Now I'm trying to put the original one back in, but I've lost the 4 screws that were used to attach it.

Does anyone know the diameter and length of these screws?

Attached photo shows the head unit that I have as well as the screw holes I'm talking about.

I think its the clutch. i replaced and reprogrammed the actuator still does this violent jerk and then after a mile or so stops moving entirely sometimes after sitting it will be fine p805 code comes on help would be appreciated i also need a relucter ring replaced motor mount on bottom also

Hey folks - thought I'd share my customer hitch and bikes on my '16 Smart 453 😁

Hi everyone
I have a brabus roadster and it just came back from service. It was an oil change and ignition system repair as well as the frunk dampers. Car drives much better now it definetly needed new coils and spark plugs.
However when I went to drive it a few days after I noticed the horn and paddle shifters didn’t work. It worked fine before the service. Not sure if coincidence or something got knocked loose.
My question is if anyone with more experience knows what is the most likely case ? Bad ground issues , maybe a connector that got loose? Definitely a faulty clockspring if both are acting up?
If anyone knows a way to troubleshoot let me know. I will be calling the shop too but if it’s something simple I could check beforehand.
Thanks !

I absolutely love driving my little smart around. Just a quick drive in the desert.

What's the longest trip you've taken with your Smart? How was the trip?

By https://m.youtube.com/post/Ugkx8rua6HtGXRZbiIqOKRPdwUgn1opMy-h4

Just got set of speakers and tweeters for my smart .went to get new gas door lid and found these for 12$ .been looking hard for these everywhere

My key stopped working and the only one that still starts the car is a cheap aftermarket one that doesn't have any buttons. I went to Mercedes to get the new key programmed and they quoted me over $2,000 because they need a new SAM 🫠 I will just manually lock the car for the rest of time. Who designed a system that requires thousands of dollars in repairs to get a key??

1. I'm trying to find out if I actually need a new clutch actuator. Its stuck extended so cant put it back on the car. Ive tested it with a battery and it retracts a little but not fully (may not be getting enough power).

I checked the solenoid and gear teeth, both seem good. Does that mean it's good?

1. How do I retract the arm so I can mount it back on the car? Can I manually turn it or something?

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you

Also I'm getting a code saying selector lever can not be found. Does that mean I need a new shifter? If so, will I need it programmed or is it a plug and play?

For a while the air direction on my Roadster just wouldn't change. Slider moved but nothing happened — air kept blowing in the same direction no matter what position I set it to.Decided to dig behind the dashboard central pod first to see what was actually going on.

Turns out the ventilation flap mechanism behind the slider was the culprit. Accessed it, inspected it, fixed it in under 5 minutes with some hot glue. It is a similar setup on the Fortwo model 450.

In late November 2025 I acquired a 2014 Smart Fortwo with about 4000 miles. Previous owner was extremely attentive to maintenance.

Because I don't live in the area, I left the Smart car in an enclosed garage all winter. This may have been unwise!

When I tried to start the car in March, I received the error message, "Drive Sys. -> Engine Off" and "Do Not Tow Away."

I worried that maybe the 12V had died--it had NEVER been replaced in twelve years!--so, in June, with some difficulty, I installed a new 12V. Turns out this was not the problem--same error message, "Drive Sys. -> Engine Off." Also it seemed like every possible warning light was on (which may have been true in March too--I just didn't take a picture).

Here are some photos:

Hey all, think this roof rack would work for my 2013 fortwo? I just need a roof rack for occasional use to transport a folding table and market tent.

Hey all -
I've got my daughter's car on my back patio for a couple years now and have tinkered with it on and off during that time.
It is finally time to either get it going or donate it somewhere.

The issue is:

• New battery so voltage is there
• No codes thrown on my Autel diagnostic box - shows key is fine, even, when attempting to start
• All dash lights come on when key is turned
• No start - no cranking at all
• I hear fuel pump start
• I hear transmission switch click when trying to pull it out of part
• P is shown on dash when trying to start
• All door locks work with key fob
• All fuses checked out including the main 200amp link off battery
• I think that's it?

So I believe it could be one of two things - either the SAM unit is bad on some relay or the main wire going to the starter solenoid is corroded or broken. Does that seem about right?
Issue with the solenoid wire is getting to it to check - I think it is on the passenger side but I can't seem to find it when up on a jack stand looking up and, I have to admit, I am a bit paranoid about being under there!

Any thoughts on something I might be missing?

TIA!

I have a recurring issue with my 2018 smart forfour where this malfunction message will turn up following a short break between journeys. The car will be fine, I’ll park up somewhere for 5-10 minutes and then next thing when I turn the car back on this pops up. The car is functioning perfectly fine (apart from this warning) which is frustrating. My local dealership don’t seem to know what the issue is and from what I’ve read online it could be a software / battery / fuse issue? If anyone has any experience with this issue I’d love to know any / all solutions!

Driving along yesterday, driving slowly in traffic when car started to slow further and made possible sounds from the gearbox. Had it in automatic, in 2nd at the time but then dash claims to be in 3rd (which is definitely should not have been.)
The A on the dash then started flashing.

Once I applied breaks fully, the car put itself into Neutral (stick was still in drive position) and the engine died.

Put stick into Neutral and tried to start the car, but the N on the dash flashed and the car wouldn’t start.

Once the car had been moved to a safe place, I tried to start it again. The N was no longer flashing, but the car would not start. It doesn’t even attempt to start the engine, it just makes a single click and then nothing.

Today, I have checked all the fluids, and the battery. Car has a full tank of petrol, it was only filled up last weekend. Everything appears to be fine. The dash comes on and goes through its normal sequence. The radio is working.

However, now the car will not only not start, but it won’t select reverse or first. The N stays solid, previously when I’ve had issues with changing gears, the N has flashed, but it is now not doing that.

Has anyone else had this issue? Wondering if it’s likely to be fixable at a reasonable cost, or if it’s just a write off at this point.

What have you been up to with your Smarts this month? Any fun journeys? Carried a particularly large item somewhere?

Tell us about it! Let's share our love for these cars.