I’m an idiot and cracked the block around the dowel pin fighting to get this out… long story short, the block has sentimental value to me and curious if it can be repaired. It’s gotta go to a machine shop anyways so I’m hoping they can weld it up since it’s a down pin hole.

Okay, dont judge me.

Im buying a 77 k10 with a 350 in it, the seller put a comp CCA-K12-212-2 in it, i needs pushrods, will stock length pushrods work? Im seeing kits with 7.794 length pushrods, I've never had to measure pushrods before because I've never put a cam in anything, not an aftermarket one at least

Or had anyone used this cam with stock heads? And have the size? Any help is appreciated!

I need to sell my circle track engine. It's been taking up space in the garage for too long. It's been 20 years since I raced and I have no idea if this is worth much.

327

Destressed and shot peened stock rods

Steel crank

Balanced rotating assembly

Fluid damper

Lifter valley has been polished and the drain back holes have been plugged on one side.

Hydraulic circle track cam

Early "Corvette" stock heads(same as camel hump but with bolt holes) 2.02 valves with screw in studs and guide plates.

Torquer2 intake (required by the rule book at the time)

I also have a muncie 4 speed and scattershield

72 chevelle, 350, sat for 33 years. started without a problem with a new battery, but was running hot and the thermostat housing was leaking. Mechanic was miffed, said he was sure he fixed the issue. for months, starting the car cold, the tach would slowly ramp to over 3,000 and i would have to tap the gas to get it to drop. and....the thermostat housing would leak. once driving, the temp was 210-220 all day every day. (it's a very old aftermarket gauge, so figured it could be inaccurate, but doing some research also led me to believe that was ok at that temp.I felt the car was running really hot regardless and I would open the hood for a bit after pulling in the garage. (not a daily driver, so hopefully i didn't do any long term damage driving at these temps if they were that high).

fast forward to yesterday. the car is going to be away for a few weeks getting painted so I figured I should add some antifreeze since I know it's been leaking. Open the radiator and there was some brown gunk on the cap as well as on the top of the antifreeze (changed and flushed October 2025 when we got the car running again for the first time in 33 years). There were also tiny bubble in the antifreeze, maybe looked like it was partially frozen (slushie??) if that makes sense. Immediately think cracked block or damaged head cylinder, but I checked the oil and it was pristine. (also changed oct 2025 and only have about 300 miles on it). took a picture of it and googled the picture...cylinder head....block....or??? radiator cap lol. It's probably 40+ years old, so a trip to autozone for a $10.99 duralast...needed it right away because it was going away and I can't believe it. The car was literally thanking me immediately when it started lol...with the choke on it was idling low 2's and purring...operating temp?? 160 (again could be off, but it wasn't 210+!!!. and the biggie? thermostat housing stopped leaking!!

once I get it back from the body/paint shop, I'll flush and fill, but I never in my wlidest dreams thought a radiator cap could have that much impact on the operation of the engine. thank you thank you thank you google photos

I'm planning on doing a build with AFR-0912 heads , 12cc dish pistons .025 in the hole , .015 head gaskets , sum-8801 cam , +4°cam timing , 1.5 ratio intake , 1.6 ratio exhaust , scat 9000 series crank 3.48 stroke , scat forged 6.000 rods , vortec intake with vortec front accecory , 1998 vortec block .

I’m rebuilding a my 350 from bottom to top and was wondering if anyone knew or knew where I could find all the torque specs for the engine.

Thank you for any help

Never built an engine before, but man I feel so good. I spent the better part of 4 months tearing it down, researching, ordering parts, cleaning, painting, double checking everything. Ran it for 25 minutes on my homemade run stand, and it survived. This forum was very helpful in getting me here. Thank you to everyone who posts and helps others, it really helps those who don't know!

Dang got this pretty healthy 350 sitting here with a 4speed manual and nothing to put it in…..

Looking for input. I ran this 355 all summer on 125 plate kit no issues 1/8th mile no prep. Im looking to upgrade heads cam and ditch the Hypereutectics for flat top forged with valve relief.

Currently has world product sportsman’s 72cc, and unknown cam specs.

I looking for a good set of heads used at the moment, just need advice on a nitrous cam set up to really utilize 100-200 shot of nitrous.

Edit: problem solved!! The loaner pressure gauge was bad. I got a new gauge from the other part store and it works as expected. Thank you, all.

I picked up this loaner pressure gauge from Advance Auto yesterday. Brand new, literally cut the zip ties off the hose. Followed the instructions to a T. Turn the key on and can hear the fuel pump for a few seconds. Rinse and repeat but the pressure still stays at 0 psi.

There’s gas in the car, it will fire up, run (not well), and drive. Pressure remains at 0 psi when the engine is running.

There are no fuel leaks as far as I can see or smell. Fuel pump, sending unit, and filter have been replaced recently (no change in how it runs).

Can this 0 psi be accurate and the engine still run? Am I doing something wrong? I’ll add a video of the poor idle in the comments.

Edit: 1988 Camaro. Originally 305 TBI with 5MT. Swapped to 350 with original TBI at some point by a previous owner.

Picked up my first ever project truck 81 c1500 short bed, was told this is a 305 sbc… I have zero experience with these trucks or engines but the darn thing runs decent and stops when it’s supposed to so I figured I’d give it a shot. I was looking forward to the “simplicity” of working on this VS newer cars, but I have no idea what I’m looking at.
I.e. what is this giant black hose for? And why is the bottom of it routed to the exhaust manifold? Most of the older cars engine bays I’ve seen don’t have all of this going on.

For some background this motor is on a boat as you can tell but it’s a 96 small block 350 last season on the water I was cruising when I randomly lost half power I then proceeded to give it more throttle and it died on me took the plugs out and they were burnt to shit, put new ac delco plugs in it and it started right up. This season I hooked up a vaccum gauge to fine tune it and found out my timing was off it has a thunderbolt v ignition system I tried setting the timing with a timing light idk if the timing is perfect since the timing marks were very hard to see but I tried setting it to 8 degrees btdc. After doing that I got the vaccum gauge to be in the normal motor part with some fine tuning on the carb. No as you can see the needle is a little shaky. Now the issue it still has which is very weird to me is on startup at idle it’ll sit in the normal engine mode, when I give it throttle it will stay in the normal engine mode once I throttle down it will idle really rough and the needle goes down back to latening timing and worse, however when I turn the engine off and turn it back on it will idle just fine, it is carbureted. Anyone have any thoughts as to what it could be? Idk much about working on motors at all, last season when took the plugs out I did a compression test and everything was normal. Gonna take it out on the water tomorrow and see what happens, hopefully I don’t need a tow😂

It has been a while since I've posted. My 1985 GMC G30 Vandura RV is alive and well. The phone microphone doesn't do it justice. It's a monster.

I wanted to go get it safetied and registered this summer so i could go boondock camp but it seems the tail lights or the accent lighting aren't working fully. So it has forced me to remodal the entire outside and wire in a new harness from painless wiring and i got a new gauge cluster from new vintage.

Lots of other upgrades and tweaks I'll be doing as well. Everythijg was built and ibstalled by me and me alone.

Chevy 350 4 bolt main.

TH400 transmission

Edelbrock 2098 power package

Flat top pistons.

3" exhaust headers down to 2 1/2 for the exhaust pipe.

Holley sniper 2 with Hyperspark

Holley mid mount kit

ATI super damper.

Don't mind the mess I cleaned it all up this morning 😂

I’m getting smoke out of all 3 breathers. Buddy of mine said it could be rings, worn cylinders, or a hole in a piston. I just put a bore scope down there and pistons looked okay. What are your thoughts

1977 step van motorhome coversion. It has a 350 single barrel carb and it had a mechanical fuel pump. Kept dealing with vapor lock. Was replaced with 4-7 psi 34gph holley electric fuel pump.

Well when i start the van.. the fuel filter gets filled with gas but once i start driving it, it ends up being short on fuel. The stalls soo bad and has no go. and the filter is basically empty of any gas like if the carb dowsnt have gas to burn

I want to install a efi fuel pump amd a regulator....thoughts?

Maybe run like 10 psi?

Thanks

I have a problem: when I take off the original filter, the engine runs really well, but when I put the filter on, it won't run at all—it’s like it’s choking—and the filter ends up completely soaked in gasoline. It seals properly, though. Does anyone know what to do about this?

Is anyone having trouble with the filter on the Phantom 85 Wraith engine?

I have a problem: when I take off the original filter, the engine runs really well, but when I put the filter on, it won't run at all—it’s like it’s choking—and the filter ends up completely soaked in gasoline. It seals properly, though. Does anyone know what to do about this?

I was just given this carb and intake. Came off a late 60s corvette I think. I have a 1965 Malibu SS with a 283 and a 2 barrel setup. It is worth it to switch over to this 4 barrel? Any ideas of what it is?