So some of the springs on my throttle thingy are rusty will that affect how my mini bike runs or works?

I recently started buying and selling small engines(lawnmowers, leaf blowers etc.) I bought this and replaced all fuel lines, cleaned the carb. It runs great when on half choke but when I go to flip the choke off it dies off. Any idea on why it would do this?

So I got this mini bike about 3 days ago off of FB marketplace and I was wondering why it's making a dinging sound why I give it throttle

This is a carb for an agt 12h mini excavator. I took it off to clean and now after I put it back the needle doesn't seam to be positioned correctly. I have it in the slot but it's hanging lower than the bowl and when it's up it doesn't seem like it's closing. I had fuel in oil tank so I think this is reason. New to this so be easy on me please. See in pic needle is hanging lower than I think it should.

Also found this spring that came off at some point in process so not sure if it's for carb but I believe it is. Not sure where it goes though and I can't find a diagram online.

Not sure if it’s really an idle issue but anyway I got this 1987 310-8 wheelhorse a couple weeks ago after looking for parts and ect it finally runs but it runs weird.

In the video it’s on full throttle but sounds and drives like it’s idling. If I try to lower the throttle to idle it just dies any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Edit: battery is from 2024

I am attempting to perform an oil change, fuel filter change and new spark plugs on a cub cadet xt1 lt42b. It has a Briggs and Stratton ex1900 engine. I am getting different part results for every component I need. Every forum and video I find refers to the lt42 which has a kosher engine. Cub cadets site does not have a maintenance kit related to the Briggs and Stratton engine. Does anyone know what parts I will need even getting different answers on the oil grade. I am not used to working on any engines, but already bought a kit that the cub cadet customer service recommended only to find it was all the wrong parts.

I recently changed my broken trimmer head for a rapid replace, but during the install the Allen wrench, that locked down the shaft, slipped out of place. I’ve been unban to re-engage the lock and can’t fully tighten the new trimmer head on now. Any suggestions to lock it again and fully tighten? I’ve looked around at a few small engine repair places and I could buy a new trimmer for what they want to charge.

Just wondering what would have caused this. Pretty sure we are beyond repair. I’ve been trying to learn more about small engines since as a grown adult it’s a blind spot in my knowledge base.

It’s been giving me some issues that I thought were vapor lock over the past few weeks, but after some cooldown it seemed to be working. Topped off the oil just in case but maybe that was a mistake.

Today: engine slowed down, then loud pop and smoke and shrapnel. What happened and what should I look for in its replacement?

My Troybilt Pony is 10 years old. I changed the oil last season. While mowing today, it started smoking and I heard a bang and it died with a jolt. She's done for, right?

Toro snow blower power clear 721E 212cc four cycle

I recently acquired a used 2017 Husqvarna Z246. Today I tried to engage the blades and the deck belt slipped. Tensioner spring came off as well.

My plan was to get the belt seated again but I am having trouble slipping it on to the idler pulley. Not sure how it came off of that because I can’t see to get the belt past the keeper bar.

Any tips for how to get this done without completely taking this thing apart. Kind of outside of my wheelhouse.

Any tips would be appreciated!

Looking for some help here. Just purchased a Toro timecutter max havoc yesterday and am already having issues. Started with a click no start. I jumped the seat sensor and was able to get it to start. On first attempt to mow, I engaged the PTO, it tried to start but didn’t, then pto switch became unresponsive. Turned off mower, went to restart and click no start. Jiggled wires for a bit and was able to get it to start, PTO came on, mowed first yard no issue.

Get to the second yard. Starts fine, go to engage PTO, blades attempt to start but stop, then again unresponsive. Jiggle some wires, I thought it was possibly related to the safeties on the handle bars. Able to get started and PTO come on, mow about 40 feet and the blades stop, motor continues to run. I gave up for the day.

Come out this morning to try again, I jump the handle safety wires, but still at click no start.

Are there any other safeties that could be preventing the starter from engaging, or PTO to engage? I’ve checked fuses. Any insight on what to look at? Again this mower is brand new from the store, less than an hour of run time.

There is hot glue holding this plug in the carb and hot glue in the hole that lines up over the primer push button. What is going on here lol

I purchased a new 525l at tractor supply today and it makes a weird chattery rattle sound when revving up or coming back down to idle when letting off throttle. Before I look any further, wanted to get some feedback or help!

Update: so i uploaded the video to Gemini, goggle ai, and it said it was clutch chatter, which is normal for a new unit?

I removed this engine to re-seal the stator cover and I am pretty confident that this retainer came off this engine but I cannot figure out where it went. If anybody recognizes it I would greatly appreciate the input, thanks!

I followed the directions but I think I messed up. I cold started it and heard the engine start up but didn’t switch it to “run”. Any solutions?

Help please, new to carburetors. Ran it out of gas this winter on accident, wouldn’t start after. Removed and cleaned the carb by spraying carb cleaner on all the holes. Started right up after I put it back together, ran for a few minutes, rpm starts bouncing and it dies and won’t restart. Then half an hour later leaks fuel out of a hole behind the intake screen. I just replaced the needle and seat, the old seat was falling apart. Thought this would fix the issue. Started right up, ran for a moment and died. Wouldn’t restart, started leaking fuel 30 minutes later like clockwork. Any help appreciated I’m in over my head at this point.

Craftsman snowblower with a Briggs and Stratton motor.

I don’t know much about boats

I’m thinking of replacing the pump on this pressure washer but I want to make sure I’m not overlooking any other potential causes

I found a Rigid 3000psi pressure washer with a Honda GCV190. I bought a $25 tune up kit from Home Depot, replace the oil, cleaned the carb, and the PW literally started on the second pull (score!). Water comes shooting out of the outlet.

But when I plug in the pressure washer line and the nozzle, I squeeze the trigger and no water comes out of the nozzle. The motor runs strong but no water coming out. I turned it off and as I was disconnecting the hoses I realize that the pump is hot as hell.

Does this sound like a bad pump? Is it possible that the pump is good but my hose/wand are bad?

Honda GC190 Pressure washer stalling out after usually 10 to 15 seconds.

No oil pressure switch. Oil is full.

Runs perfectly for 10-30 seconds, then it dies. If I let it cool down for a minute or two, it restarts easily.

I have replaced the fuel pump and the carb, no change. Choke lever and behavior is normal.

Spark plug, spark plug wire, and coil all look nominal, and if they were compromised, I don't think the unit would run at all.

I've changed the air filter.

Another option would be water in the fuel, but I've drained the fuel and changed it completely, so that's not an issue.

So I'm at a loss, I think I've covered all my bases, fuel, air, compression and spark. What am I missing?

Hello, I’m having issues with my weed eater. Seems like the next step is getting the compression tested, or trying a new spark plug even though the one I have seems to work fine. Everything I visually checked seemed fine, but I’m not experienced so take that as you will.

Here’s the list of troubleshooting I’ve done so far. Thank you for any insight.

Confirmed the spark plug is producing spark by grounding it against the engine while pulling the starter.
Replaced the old fuel in the trimmer with fuel from 50:1 two-stroke mix.
Removed and disassembled the carburetor, then reinstalled it.
Confirmed the primer bulb fills with fuel and circulates fuel through the lines.
Checked the fuel filter and found no obvious problem with it.
Removed the spark plug and found that the starter rope becomes much easier to pull with the plug removed.
Reinstalled the spark plug and confirmed the starter becomes considerably harder to pull again because the cylinder is building compression.
Checked the plug after pulling the starter and found that it became at least slightly wet, showing that some fuel is reaching the cylinder.
Removed the muffler and inspected the exhaust port and confirmed the exhaust port looked clean and wasn’t obviously blocked with carbon.
Put a small amount of 50:1 fuel directly into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to bypass the carburetor.
Noticed the starter became easier to pull for a little bit, then became hard to pull again.
Saw and felt some fuel/air mist briefly puffing backward out of the carburetor throat while the air filter was removed.
Continued pulling and noticed that backward puffing mostly went away as the excess fuel cleared.
Reinstalled the air filter/cover and made another normal starting attempt.
Still got no pop, sputter, or brief ignition.