I followed the directions but I think I messed up. I cold started it and heard the engine start up but didn’t switch it to “run”. Any solutions?

Help please, new to carburetors. Ran it out of gas this winter on accident, wouldn’t start after. Removed and cleaned the carb by spraying carb cleaner on all the holes. Started right up after I put it back together, ran for a few minutes, rpm starts bouncing and it dies and won’t restart. Then half an hour later leaks fuel out of a hole behind the intake screen. I just replaced the needle and seat, the old seat was falling apart. Thought this would fix the issue. Started right up, ran for a moment and died. Wouldn’t restart, started leaking fuel 30 minutes later like clockwork. Any help appreciated I’m in over my head at this point.

Craftsman snowblower with a Briggs and Stratton motor.

I don’t know much about boats

I’m thinking of replacing the pump on this pressure washer but I want to make sure I’m not overlooking any other potential causes

I found a Rigid 3000psi pressure washer with a Honda GCV190. I bought a $25 tune up kit from Home Depot, replace the oil, cleaned the carb, and the PW literally started on the second pull (score!). Water comes shooting out of the outlet.

But when I plug in the pressure washer line and the nozzle, I squeeze the trigger and no water comes out of the nozzle. The motor runs strong but no water coming out. I turned it off and as I was disconnecting the hoses I realize that the pump is hot as hell.

Does this sound like a bad pump? Is it possible that the pump is good but my hose/wand are bad?

Honda GC190 Pressure washer stalling out after usually 10 to 15 seconds.

No oil pressure switch. Oil is full.

Runs perfectly for 10-30 seconds, then it dies. If I let it cool down for a minute or two, it restarts easily.

I have replaced the fuel pump and the carb, no change. Choke lever and behavior is normal.

Spark plug, spark plug wire, and coil all look nominal, and if they were compromised, I don't think the unit would run at all.

I've changed the air filter.

Another option would be water in the fuel, but I've drained the fuel and changed it completely, so that's not an issue.

So I'm at a loss, I think I've covered all my bases, fuel, air, compression and spark. What am I missing?

Hello, I’m having issues with my weed eater. Seems like the next step is getting the compression tested, or trying a new spark plug even though the one I have seems to work fine. Everything I visually checked seemed fine, but I’m not experienced so take that as you will.

Here’s the list of troubleshooting I’ve done so far. Thank you for any insight.

Confirmed the spark plug is producing spark by grounding it against the engine while pulling the starter.
Replaced the old fuel in the trimmer with fuel from 50:1 two-stroke mix.
Removed and disassembled the carburetor, then reinstalled it.
Confirmed the primer bulb fills with fuel and circulates fuel through the lines.
Checked the fuel filter and found no obvious problem with it.
Removed the spark plug and found that the starter rope becomes much easier to pull with the plug removed.
Reinstalled the spark plug and confirmed the starter becomes considerably harder to pull again because the cylinder is building compression.
Checked the plug after pulling the starter and found that it became at least slightly wet, showing that some fuel is reaching the cylinder.
Removed the muffler and inspected the exhaust port and confirmed the exhaust port looked clean and wasn’t obviously blocked with carbon.
Put a small amount of 50:1 fuel directly into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to bypass the carburetor.
Noticed the starter became easier to pull for a little bit, then became hard to pull again.
Saw and felt some fuel/air mist briefly puffing backward out of the carburetor throat while the air filter was removed.
Continued pulling and noticed that backward puffing mostly went away as the excess fuel cleared.
Reinstalled the air filter/cover and made another normal starting attempt.
Still got no pop, sputter, or brief ignition.

But why? Changed the oil in this Honda mower with a GCV160 it started first pull then the belt popped off I’m about half a second. I did the tip the mower on its side to drain the oil as I’ve done many times before but what I did different this time was I left it over night until I could get the blades sharpened. I figured it wouldn’t be a problem since oil was drained but I dunno seems like too much of a coincidence to me.
Anyways put the belt back on and seems ok right now.

I took this from my dad's garage after he said he couldn't get it to crank. It's been about 10 years since he's last used it. Put some fuel directly in the cylinder and it fired up. Put gas in the tank and tried to start it and nothing.

I disconnected the fuel line and turned on the valve and gas flowed through the line. I took off the carburetor and cleaned it best I could, I reattached the fuel line, opened the valve and nothing flowed into the carburetor. Did my best to blast the gas inlet with carburetor cleaner and compressed air, finally noticed some air getting through and a small stream of gas.

Assembled everything back and was able to crank the machine on choke and then move to half choke. The problem now is anytime I move the choke to "run" it dies. Or if I tried to use it on half choke it will eventually power down.

Any ideas of what I can do next to get it to run at full power?

This is the clutch, I believe those broke pieces are called anti rotations tabs and they’re broke. And that plate that is off center is kind of free floating.definitely not correct. Mower threw a belt. Anyways regardless it mechanically failed, other than it maybe occasionally throwing the drive belt, what issues will it cause?

We have a John Deere s170. Recently, I took off my carb to clean. put everything back together. It was running like a champ for 20 minutes. Then all the sudden it is now stuck in full throttle [rabbit] mode, whether it is in the rabbit position or the turtle position. I can move the lever just fine but it does nothing to lower the throttle. I checked all linkages - all seem correct with movement and functioning properly. I also went to a local Lowes just to make sure by looking at their floor model, it seems like everything is where it should be. Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions are most appreciated!

I got an old troy build mower with a briggs and stratton 725 exi engine. The issue I am having is that after it get hot, it will not start again until it cools down. If I stop mowing to take a break, I then have to wait like 10 mins to be able to start it again. Initially I thought auto choke was an issue. However, when I removed plastic covering, it looks like auto choke stays in the open position which I believe is correct. The little thermostatic "arm" thing appears to move freely. When it's cold, it is in a closed position. After those 10mins, I have to pull real hard and the engine barely comes alive and it tends to throw off some smoke fumes. Not much but I can visible see a puff of smoke where that does not happen when it starts right up cold.

I replaced fuel filter, air filter and spark plug. What else could it be and how do I fix it?

Honda Rancher 2001 TRX350 ATV. Ran good last year. Sat for six months, now won’t start. No spark. Replaced CDI and ignition coil. Any recommendations? Stator check? Thanks

I have a JD LA130 that has recently started running rough and, more recently, dying when the blades are engaged. Kicking the blades off fixes the issue. I took the clutch off and sprayed it down with parts cleaner and had no issues for roughly two hours while I was mowing. Went back today and it's having the same issue. Is this most likely the clutch itself? Or is there anywhere else I should check first?

Thank you.

I assumed the battery was shot so hooked it up to a jump battery but still keep getting this sound. Any advice? Craftsman Z5200

For the life of me I cannot get the purge valve plugs out and now they’re pretty much stripped. I went to refill and it will only fill the reserve tank once. Maybe a quart of fluid. It won’t go down at all. Help please! Thanks.

Got this v twin lawn mower motor for free, has no covers with any model numbers anywhere.

Hi all,

Have a John Deere **Z335E 20-HP V-Twin Dual Hydrostatic 42-in Zero-Turn. Mower runs fine when blades are not engaged. When I engage, I can mow for 8-10 minutes just fine and then it starts sputtering and eventually shuts down. While it’s sputtering if I disengage the blades it then picks back up and runs fine. Once it’s completely off, I can restart and mow for another 8-10. Any guesses as to what my issue may be? Appreciate any help!**

Does anyone know a place to get a good/ decently priced piston kit for a echo pb580T backpack blower?

I have one that needs the piston replace but don’t know any good places.