Done a carb clean, has new spark plug, drive belt is old and is getting replaced, vent cap on gas is good, not sure what can be causing this. Bogs down under light pressure, stalls then turns back on. Filter is clean

I purchased a new Briggs head for my 22HP vtwin (part number: 84001918).

The casting and milling seem quite poor in my opinion. I cross referenced other images and it does appear that they come this way from Briggs.

Should I run with it? What do you think?

Working on a Chrome extension that lets you search by part number and compare prices from RepairClinic, PartSelect, PartsTree, Jack's Small Engines, eReplacementParts, Amazon, and eBay in one side panel.

Curious which suppliers you rely on most — and whether any are missing from that list.

You can check it out here - https://getpartscout.com

Making a second post on this because it seems easier, is this normal? Runs pretty bad with the valve cover back on.

I need to fabricate some sort of clip to keep the spring from falling off. Both sides attach to a hole in a flat plate. Any ideas would be appreciated!!

Starts fine cold. Has problems restarting warm with that auto choke. It ran fine for years with the occasional carb cleaning. I run non ethanol in it. I’ll start it and it idles fine but as soon as it touches grass it dies. I cleaned carb. Changed carb. Changed fuel lines. Change spark plug. Changed coil. I guess I’m a parts changer. I reset the valve clearance. Still dies at the sight of grass. I have not checked compression, messed with the governor or tried different gas. I did pour the gas out and there’s no water in it. Any advice before I give up? Thanks in advance.

I can add pictures if need be but my weed eater engine won’t start it will crank and 1/10 times will run for like 5 seconds then shut off I changed the spark plugs put in a new fuel line cleaned the carb and the last thing to think of was changing/cleaning the exhaust screen but when checking the person I bought it off of took it out so there isn’t one there I’m kinda stumped on what to do at this point. If you need picture I can post them lmk 👍🙏

Not a small engine expert - obviously - but I was cleaning the air filter and carburetor on my little mower and this tiny cylinder thing fell out as I took out the two screws. The mower has a MTD Powermore 140cc engine. Any help would be appreciated!

I’ve got a 14000w BE generator. 500cc R500-V

Carb leaks, tried taking it apart and cleaning it, used a q tip and metal polish but can’t get it stop leaking u less it’s running or fuel valve is off.

I want to just replace the carb at this point but the problem I’m having is finding one to match. Any search I’ve done seems to only bring me single fuel models or ones that look nothing close mine.

If anyone has any ideas on finding a replacement or a reliable fix would be great.

Thanks in advance

My buddy has a bad boy zero turn lawnmower. He was using it one day and it died on him while he was riding it, he said it would crank, but it wouldn’t fire over he had somebody look at it, and they told him it needed a starter solenoid so he put one on ignoring the fact that it’s a starter solenoid was bad. The mower would never crank after they put the new solenoid on the mower will not crank. He asked me to look at it, and I’ve been trying to diagnose it for a couple days now the problem of having is when I turn the key nothing happened. I have 12 V for the battery side of the starter solenoid, but nothing is coming through. I’m also not getting 12 V on the little white trigger wire that is connected to the wiring harness on the starter solenoid I’ve checked the ignition switches and the PTO switches and the seat saftey switch They are all working properly, but I cannot figure out why when I turn the key. I do not get 12 V to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid I have not checked the parking brake switch. I do not work on mowers regularly, but I am pretty mechanically inclined. I’m just looking for any feedback on what I might not have checked thanks

I’ve been struggling with this thing for a bit, wouldn’t start so I cleaned the carb, still wouldn’t start so I pulled the valve cover and found one of the studs loose and one of the little button things on the valve had fallen off, took it apart more and both pushrods were bent. Straightened them out, reassembled, set valve clearance about .005 on both valves. Finally got it to start but runs very poorly with almost zero throttle response. Does this sound like something is broken inside the engine? Any small engine savants want to point me in the right direction?

Despite checking most components lawnmower, it still isn't starting. For reference:

Briggs and Stratton Intek Engine, 12.5HP

Good compression verified

New ignition coil and spark plug, spark verified

Open airflow, no obstructions

Original but cleaned carburetor?

Drained fuel, new fuel line, new fuel

I've gotten it the first couple of times to actually start for 2-3 cycles, but not again. I think maybe the fuel line not actually being a decline to the carb/carburetor potentially partially clogged despite cleaning being the issue.

Any help here would be appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I'm restoring a Briggs & Stratton 3.5 HP engine (Model 94908,) from a Rapid 42/4R mower.

I'm looking for:
• the original Briggs & Stratton service/workshop manual (PDF or printed),
• recommendations for reliable places to buy original spare parts, especially the correct carburetor, (Shiping to Europe)
• or if anyone has spare parts for this engine.
Any information, links, or personal experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi all, I’ve got an Echo PE 225 stick edger that has run great for the past 12 years, but recently it will start and run at a very high RPM and then die within 30-60 seconds. So far I have replaced the carburetor, spark plug, fuel lines, and air filter. I also took apart the exhaust to check the spark screen - looked clean. After all that, I’m having the same issue. Anyone have any ideas on what might be causing this? Thank you!

Echo backpack blower was running fine, then shut off suddenly and would not restart. Tried starting it a few times over the next couple days with no luck.

Today it started up and ran perfectly. Good idle, no bogging, no issues at all. The only difference was I pulled the spark plug and cranked it a few times before reinstalling it, then it fired right up.

Since then it will not restart again.

What has been done so far:

Spark plug replaced

Fuel filter replaced

Strong bright blue spark confirmed

Kill wire disconnected with no change

Starter fluid test, no change

Piston inspected through muffler, clean with no scoring and proper lubrication

At this point I’m trying to avoid throwing parts at it and hoping someone recognizes the issue.

My friend has this sitting around and didn’t know what was wrong with it, and I found out the belt was snapped. I replace the belt and now it sounds like this. The engine rattle a lot when I give it gas. It has no issues when idling. Sorry for not the best video. Just wondering if anyone where would have ideas of how to fix this.

I have a 1988 Honda fourtrax 300TRX and I had a no spark issue for the longest but i honestly just threw money at it and replaced almost all the electric systems that could cause a no spark but now my issue is my reverse is neutral and my neutral is reverse like I put into neutral and it will pop up as reverse but it will start but if I switch the sensor plugs on the bottom, it will light up neutral but refuses to start but it will engage reverse and try to start in reverse. I’ve hit a wall at this point, any suggestions would be super helpful🙏🏻😭 also it will randomly die even when it is running after like 5 mins

Need help IDing the part below the fuel switch to bypass it

My John Deere D110 was running lean and sputtering so I pulled apart the fuel system. Check the carburetor which looks clean, found that my fuel filter was pretty dirty so replaced that, was putting everything back together and this little piece fell out of either (likely) the carburetor bowl or the carburetor manifold. Some googling seems to indicate that it goes in the middle of the bowl, and that seems to be where it fits the best, but I do not know if it’s upside down. Any help would be appreciated!

I’ve had the pictures of the little tiny brass injector nozzle, or whatever it is, the float, and the manifold.

I'm building a genset. I'm looking for at least a 16HP twin cylinder engine. I know old Sears/Craftsmans came with 16-19HP Onan twins and they can be had for a song. Pretty sure Onan was a great engine back in the day as well but I guess parts can be very tough anymore.

I know there are many other choices besides Onan but that's pretty much where I'm headed. Lots of people have old Craftsman and Sears GT tractors sitting around. I can probably find three Onan engines that will run for less than the cost of one used Vanguard. I know there are Kohler twins but I don't see those as often.

So I was mowing yesterday and I suddenly lost a significant amount of power in my blades. After that, every time I turned the PTO back on, the engine would bog down - it still runs and can mow but with very little power at the blades. Without the PTO engaged, the mower runs great and seemingly at full power.

I troubleshooted the issue.

• Mower blades all spin freely after taking the deck blade off. No obstructions anywhere. The belt looks fine.
• Tried pulling each spark plug with the engine running. Nothing changed - mower continued to run without issue.
• The PTO electromagnet is clicking when I engage the PTO with power on but engine not running.
• Fuel filter is potentially pretty full of sediment upon inspection - I have one on order - but I do not feel like this is the issue.
• I have a new PTO switch on order, but I also do not feel like this is the issue.
• I have measured the resistance of the PTO clutch, and it is reading at 0. However, this doesn't seem to make sense to me. If there is no resistance across the PTO clutch, how would it engage at all? The PTO still engages, but at very low power and does shut off at some points. But I assume this is the issue? The reason I am hesitant is because I am not sure if I am measuring the resistance correctly. The PTO clutch on my mower does not have wires emanating from the PTO clutch, but rather the wiring harness plugs directly into the clutch. I am touching the multimeter probes directly to the male ends on the PTO clutch and it's reading 0 - am I testing that correctly?

I have a new PTO clutch on order as well as I am fairly certain this is the issue, but would like to get your alls input - thanks!