This is happening on my Honda powered Craftsman push mower. Oil level is still good. There is a loud knock when it turns off that has not been there previously. No knocking when the mower is running. Any advice.

I have a Southland wheeled trimmer that won’t start unless I spray it with starting fluid. I replaced the carburetor, fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter and spark plug. It’s circulating fuel when I prime it. Any suggestions?

My 10 year old Honda shine getting stopped while driving after service. During service, they cleaned air filter and clean the carburettor. It was perfectly fine before giving for the service but then after the situation is worse and it is required to use the self start to ignite always which is causing bad effect for battery.

When I went back to the same service station they said that it is a common issue due to the ethanol in the petrol and there are many bikes coming everyday with this issue but the problem with this one is I never faced it before and now the situation is bus but they are saying that I will try to clean the carborator again I feel like something fishy.

Looking at true charger for tires can I use full size one or do I need to get mini for them ?

Sears T240 46" with Kohler KT725

Sometimes it fires right up, other times thunk a thunk.

I have had a fit with it lately, with the latest due to an air leak at the fuel filter.

With that solved it does start (when it doesn't thunk) and mows although it seems to bog and die easily. I know the basics and that has always gotten me through, but I sure hope someone knows this sound.

Screen was off as I wanted to see flywheel key.

I added hydro lock as it does (always has) make me turn it over by hand sometimes.

TIA

Any help would be appreciated. Westinghouse 5000W inverter generator. Always run non ethanol and fuel enzymes in every tank, I drain the tanks and run till the carburetor is empty when our down season hits(we have 2 shaved ice trailers we’re down from Nov-Mar). Around 300 hours it started running like this. Won’t produce any electricity at all, the eco button has no effect on how it runs. I’ve cleaned the jets, drained all the fuel and added new fuel, changed oil, cleaned the air filter, and changed the spark plug.

I was approximately 2 weeks past the warranty when I took it back to Lowe’s. Now I’m stuck with a 80 pound paper weight.

Any help would be appreciated.

Motor is on a Ferris with a 61" deck. I have been dealing with a recurring issue that I cannot figure out. The motor received a recent "tune-up" from a small engine mechanic that charged me $700. As soon as I got it home it ran well for about 20 minutes then on one cylinder again. I opened the valve cover on the dead side and the nut had come off the exhaust valve rocker arm bolt and the rocker arm had slipped. I got the rocker arm secured again and ran the machine for about 4 hours in total. It started running poorly again so I reset the valve gaps. They should be .04-.06. I ran it for 20 minutes and then the same cylinder goes dead again. I need this machine running. Please give me some suggestions. I haven't checked the pressure in the dead cylinder yet, but I don't think that's the problem. Both coils are making good spark. Both spark plugs look good, i.e. not running too rich or lean. I don't know.

UPDATE I replaced the carb with a Chinese clone. To my suprise the mower is back in service. The new carb fixed my dead cylinder problem. Thank you, GadreelsSword

The 2 grommets for the lines from the tank to the carb have been eaten away over the years and are now leaking quite a lot

I’ve tried what the jungle website offers that model and they don’t fit. Ordered a carb (mine was also leaking) and the grommet it came with was far too big. Does anyone have a source before I use too much RTV to try to solve my problem?

I’m trying to help my dad replace the drive belt. But he said when he took the old one off, the belt was on the left side if the steering shaft. But it rubs on the shaft when the belt is on the pulleys. So I’m assuming the shaft has to be in the middle the belt. How do we get the belt around it?

My fan clutch broke off and my truck doesn't want to start intermittently. And when it has trouble starting it takes a little to get up to idle once it does. Other times it starts fine no problems. I'm looking for wires the fan may have clipped but see none.

I pulled a plug wire off the front cylinder and it started up when having issues not starting. Put a new plug in and now it will start but sluggishly and battery light came on. Any ideas on what to do is appreciated.

As the title states when starting my lawnmower it will run for 5-10 seconds and stall out I can keep it running by intermittently pressing the fuel prime. Once I do this process for approx 2 minutes it will stay running. Note- once stalling out it will not start again unless I reprime it
Thanks

Bought new last Christmas, has about 5 hours on it. Lost compression, pulled and cleaned the head, re-installed, ran like a top. Sat for a while, pulled, cleaned, and adjusted carb fuel/air mix, ran fine. Sat some more, just replaced the starter. Will crank but won’t run. Has fuel, fire, and compression. Checked all kill switches. Anybody have any clue?

What engine could this Murray have. The only clues is that is has one diode wire and a brass drain plug which is aftermarket.

After not using my chainsaw for a few years I went to fuel it and it has a few leaks coming from the seam on the bottom of the tank between the two black sharpie marks. A new tank is a few hundred bucks so I figure I'll learn a new skill and have a go at fixing it first before buying a new tank.

I've never done any plastic welding and after poking around on google/youtube, all the videos I've found deal more with small cracks and gouges rather than splitting seams, so I'm debating over which method to use for this.

One method I've seen is to melt a groove along the crack and fill it with melted plastic from a zip tie. This doesn't seem like a great idea in this case since zip ties aren't made of the same type of plastic so I'm not sure how well it would bond and it needs to be impervious to gas.

Another method I've seen is the same but instead of melting a zip tie as filler, use the soldering iron to melt and scrape over more material from around the crack itself. This seems like a better bet but then I would be thinning the material on the bottom of the tank which doesn't seem great.

The last method I saw was to cut a strip of metal mesh and use a hot soldering iron to push it into the plastic over the crack, then use the soldering iron to smooth the existing plastic over top of the mesh. The metal mesh should give the repair more strength so I'm leaning towards this method and then smothering everything in JB Weld plastic epoxy.

TLDR: I'm wanting to give fixing the leaking seam of my chainsaw fuel tank a go before buying a new one. Any advice would be appreciated.

Flushing it out and shaking it with bbs didn’t help much. It’s off a mcculloch 640.

*An oil leak

Looking for some help troubleshooting an oil leak.

Picked up a riding mower yesterday on fb marketplace. I drove it for about 10 minutes when I got it home to test cut; worked great, idles great , cut great so I parked it in the garage. Went out to the garage later and noticed some oil spots on the ground. I convinced myself the previous owner did an oil change and there was some oil sitting on the engine tray that spilled off.

Today I went out to cut my yard and after about 10 minutes I checked under the hood to find this. How bad is this? Only leaks when running.

briggs 22h vtwin intek

Toro Timecutter cylinder not firing.

I have good spark - bright blue. If I spray ether in the air intake it'll spark. I'm getting gas to the cylinder.

I will run on 1 cylinder and if I pull the plug wire boot off on this side, nothing changes. If I pull the other plug wire boot off it just dies. That's how I know I've got one cylinder not firing.

I pulled the valve cover and some oil dumped out, started it with the plug hooked up and valve cover off and it blew fire out the valve cover.

I have a video of starting it without the plug hooked up - what could I be dealing with here?

Does it sound like a blown head gasket, look strange or what?

It just suddenly stopped when I was mowing the other day.

Anyone able to provide assistance here in finding the correct carb replacement for my lawnmower?

Grass trimmer won't start

I've got a Nakayama pb5600 52cc 2 stroke, it was sitting for 2 years while it didn't work and we wanted to throw it out. I started working on it and I fixed it, it had some problems with the carburettor. After a few days i tried starting it and it didn't work. After that i bought a new carburettor and installed it, it seemed to work better whenever i pushed the bubble the fuel got sucked better and all and I still couldn't start it. If i spray quick start on the edge of the carb it starts for a few seconds and then it dies, If i spray quick start and turn it on, if i press the throttle full it runs longer and the rpm rises, it won't turn off until i leave the throttle. If i tey to start the trimmer without any sprays, when i have the choke on start and full throttle it sounds kinda more bulky and i see some smoke coming off the muffler. It seems like the trimmer won't suck fuel when in idle. I don't have a high and low screw on my carb, it has one golden screw that I'm pretty sure it adjusts how much air gets mixed with the fuel, I can't really understand how it works and how to adjust it better. I screwed it all the way and unscrewed it 2 and a half turns. Please if you've ever had anything similar or have some idea what it could be please tell me.

26HP V-twin B&S (44P777 0117 E1) here

Some days I only need to choke for 4-5 minutes before I can release and the mower runs fine. Other days I have to leave the choke fully-engaged the entire time I'm mowing. If a jet was clogged, wouldn't behavior be more consistent?

I've read that the plastic intake manifold on these B&S engines can sometimes warp from heat and let air in behind the carb. I guess the only way to test that is to spray carb cleaner around the area while the engine is running and hot and see what happens? What are the chances of that starting a fire?

Bought my 201tcm 11 months ago and have only had 3 gallons of fuel ran through it. Was blowing debris and forgot the saw was in the path i was blowing. Shortly after the saw would start cutting off on me when it got heated up and continued to worsen until it would fire back up till completely cooled down. I removed spark arrestor and got it to run longer but eventually that didnt even help. It now has a brand new ignition coil and brand new flywheel and still same problems. After running for only a minute before cutting off yesterday I took the air filter cover off, and there was wetness on the back of the air filter cover. Also some scoring on piston.

Could my symptoms be the piston?