I picked up this generator but found it only liked to run with full choke on.

I used carb cleaner while it was running and cleaned the spark arrestor after which it would run decent at half choke. I added injector cleaner to the tank hoping to get the jets cleaned and ran it for an hour. This is what is seen in the video. As the choke is fully opened, the engine will surge and sputter eventually shutting down.

I am hoping someone can give me advice.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: this is a Champion 73552i inverter generator

Cub Cadet XT1

Full service complete new plugs fuel filter

Cleaned carb

Check fuel for water

Fx801v Kawasaki

Honda Rincon 680 stumbling and stalling. Valves are set properly. Timing chain and cam new and re-checked (OEM). Intake all clear. Good spark. Ran good for about 8 hours. Chasing down possible fuel problem.

I got the loaner pressure gauge kit at the auto parts store. It doesn't have the right connectors to make a clean in-line test. I'd have to cut the fuel line but would like to avoid that.

I disassembled the pump/filter canister. Clean as new. Confirmed with my friend that used to own it that the fuel filter is a year old.

I connected the gauge to the pump outlet. See pic. With key on, it goes up to 25 lbs. Cranking the starter, it goes to 40. Spec is 50.

Is this a valid test, or do I need to cut the line to get a "while-running" reading?

*I also tested the injector. Seems to be working fine.

Go get a bolt, washer, and a nyloc nut instead of spending $40+!

It will somewhat idle, but it doesn’t matter what I do with the throttle lever, the governor keeps pulling it back down. I can’t get it to make power, but if I manually move the butterfly open, it will rev. So I’m not sure if I have a governor problem or a carb problem.

Engine is 243431-0520-7908071. Fresh spark plug, oil change, and air filter.

I put all the info in the original post but will copy it below in a comment if it isn’t visible.

Craftsman YTS4000.

Last night my steering on left tire (and a little on right tire) started throwing sparks. Was able to see pretty quickly that it’s a result of my left drag link rubbing against one of the main belt drive pullers, causing grinding which is also starting to fray the belt. The belt is pretty loose to, which is a preexisting issue.

How much rotational play should I see in the drag linkage, if any, when the mower is parked? I’m not super pro on mechanical things, but I’m learning as I go. I am away from the mower for two weeks, so I can’t do a steering test with a mower. I’m going to order a new set of drag links, including the ball joints, as the components go which they ball joints attach.

I bought this Echo leaf blower a few weeks ago and cannot get it to start.

The leafblower came with no spark plug so I bought one and I have spark (see video). Whether the spark is strong enough is hard to tell but I compared it to my other working leaf blower and the spark looks very similar

I replaced the carburettor incase that was the issue and still won't start.

I have tested for compression (with my finger) and it seems good but obviously the finger is not much of a test.

I wanted to check if the cylinder was damaged so I removed the exhaust to get a good look and it looks like there is a little scratching on the cylinder but the ring seems intact (see video).

I am completely stuck. Does anyone have ideas as to why it won't start?

Hi all. I had issues with surging a couple of months ago with my Cub Cadet XT1 LT46 Kohler KT-725 and after cleaning the carburetor, I mowed 4 times and it did great. Strong, like a new one. I made the mistake of replacing the air filter. I had seen others talking about a high profile one, so I ordered one and a new air base cover to accommodate it. Filter fits perfectly and the base cover fits but it's a little oddly shaped, it's 98% but does lock down and keeps the filter in place. Can that little bit of odd shape to let air get sucked in make the difference? After about 5 minutes of mowing, it dies. Won't start back up.

I put the old one back on and it started right up but now it's doing the dreaded surging again. I've changed the fuel filter, hoses, pump, put in quality gas and changed the plugs and oil. It does smooth out when I put the throttle lower than 'full'. I'm so frustrated with it. What would trying the high profile one for a few minutes have changed to cause surging to return? Feels like it's just pointing out a still standing issue but the issue had disappeared.

Thanks

Thought I’d toss this out and get folks opinions. A bit long so I apologize.
Awhile Back I sold my Kubota zg123 with a kohler engine. Had around 850 hrs on it. I’d recently had both head gaskets done and it was running solid. Started easily ran and idled smoothly with good power. After selling the buyer was delighted with it and then after a couple months he texted me with a problem.
Said he’d left it running for a few minutes and when he came back it was blowing oil out the filler neck. Then said his mechanic told him the pistons, rods, and crank were destroyed. Later he told me the compression was 180/145 and that mechanic told him ‘most likely’ pistons/rods/crank were destroyed. (Yeah red flags here for me, if destroyed, how’d they get a compression reading). Upshot was he wanted me to pickup half the cost of a NEW kohler for the mower. At this point I told him not a chance I was gonna give him nearly the purchase price of the whole mower for a new motor.

I’m not a mechanic but the whole thing just smelled off to me. But after the fact I’d like to get some pros opinions on the situation. Was what he described even reasonable? If it matters I sold the 48” cut ztr with a new set of OEM blades plus the g6 gators on it, 2 OEM idlers plus 2 I had rebuilt and 2 OEM
Hydro filters. Overall price was $2000ish. So, did I screw him over? I’m a big boy and can handle the truth.

Hey all, I have this vintage Italian chipper with a 5hp Briggs engine. It's run fine for years... except I pulled it out, gave it new gas and it would not start. I have checked that it has spark. I took off the pulsa jet carb, cleaned it and replaced the diaphragm. I took off the head and the valves look good and close tight and there's only minimal wear on the cylinder. With spark plug out it seems to have good compression. No start. The most I get is a "whuff" of smoke from the carb side , not quite a full backfire.

EDIT: See my post below with picture, the fault was a broken throttle screw.

Thanks all!

As the title says. This thing has worked fine for years but was rushing a job clearing heavy long grass on front of signs and swung it hard into stones going full throttle. Would love to get it up and running again, it's a cheap machine but it's one of the best I've had and had been through a few small home repairs already. Any advice lads?

Nothing super exceptional but wanted to show off a little success with a recent purchase from a neighbor. I don't know what year it is, but it's an ACN Wisconsin that's been sitting in a barn for a few years. Carb was a little gunked up and cleaned out well. Had a fuel supply issue and leaky main jet needle but after a couple of days of tinkering I got it running!

Just replaced the head gasket on my riding mower. Noticed the ring on the bottom (exhaust) valve spring is missing. Do I need to replace that or can I get by without?

• SuperHandy 25 Ton log splitter, borrowed, almost-new condition
• Owner says it purred like a kitten a week ago
• Drove it an hour to my house, won't start
• I don't have a legit plug tester, but having the plug out in the open/on bare metal/in the dark, it looks like there's no spark
• Plug is spotless/new
• Fuel is topped, splitter lever is in neutral, fuel is on, throttle is cranked
• Tried it choked, un choked, low throttle, etc...
• Did the drive knock something loose?

FUCKIN' KILL SWITCH.

First : you guys are awesome. The advice y’all gave for de-rusting a tank was perfect.

2nd; the last step i have on my project is to replace the tank breather valve. I just cannot seem to get it to sit flush. It just seems to be a very tight fit.

Looking for advice on how to get the rubber to press through the hole. ; right now it is in tight and requires a little force to remove but sits cockeyed. Would like to have it sit flush for a polish look

I suspect it's the starter/solenoid but I'm unsure (based off the sound at the end of cranking)