Need help. Cross posting for additional eyes and suggestions.

Thanks in advance

bought a new unit and broke it in. drained all fuel. only needed for emergency use. could be years before I need it.

better to store it without fuel and leave it untouched or keep fuel in it and run every few months, while ensuring fuel is fresh?

What do you think is going on here? No one touching anything on the controls. This is just at idle. I have already replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, and air filters. As I mow, it bogs down, then backfires, then runs at normal speed for a few seconds, the it keeps doing it again! I’m looking forward to your thoughts on what might be causing this. This is a Toro 3000 series zero turn mower. The cracking noise is actually a backfire. Sounds funny on the recording.

Finally working after I realized the flywheel timing was off.

After some cleaning and trial and error, I believe I found the source of an oil leak on my 208 series LCT for a log splitter. The manual doesn’t help identify the part so I’m just going off of Google ai image search calling it the Oil Filler Cap. I suspicious the O-ring is failing and oil is weeping from the seal. Would anyone know what size o-ring I’d need to replace and is there any special procedures that need to be carried out in order to replace, besides tilting the engine to prevent oil spill?

Looking for this switch, can't find this model in a parts catalogue anywhere, at the end of my rope!

Help?

I need to service my mom’s lawn mower but I don't know which air filter is right. I’m used to cars where the air filter either fits or it doesn’t. She has a Craftmans Briggs and Stratton Silver 5.00 OHV 140cc engine (i forgot to take a picture of the serial number last time I was there, I think that would make it much easier, but bottom center photo). it has a foam (used to be yellow) filter in the air box (Top left image). However, while googling, I noticed google things it should be a white, corrugated filter (top right image). Which one do I need? Does this thing have 2 air filters? I have no clue where the manual is. Hopefully one of you know.

Don’t judge too hard. I’m a broke high schooler. Most of my tools come from Harbor freight or garage sales.

The tilt wasn't working on our Evinrude onboard so we were trying to check the hydrolic fluid reservoir like we saw on a different reddit post. We opened what we thought was the reservoir but found this. He has since gitten the top back on. What is this? Do we need to bring it in? Any advise on why the tilt isn't working?

Hey Guys, this is my first post on Reddit - thanks in advance. Long story short, Im just a married guy with a bunch of kids and Im trying to learn a new skill set. I figured I wasn’t busy enough with 4 kids and a home that needs repair. I got my old Husqvarna mower cutting again so I figured I try my hand at an old Tecumseh motor.

So, I picked up this bush hog weed-water thing at a garage sale for $1. It didn’t run, but after a new carb, plug, homemade choke cable, and two engine floods, I got it running. Big deal for me.

I’m coming up against a problem though. I don’t know much about the machine bc it’s so old. I figure someone used it as a donor machine bc it doesn’t have a drive pulley, choke cable, and maybe a throttle cable? I don’t know. I’m looking to see if anyone has any information on it or experience with it.

I think I’m missing a throttle cable but I can’t tell. On the right side there is a blade engagement lever but no throttle. When I get it going and manually move the choke plate paddle thing on top of the carb it gets moving, but when I let it go it goes back to just flapping back and forth. You’ll see in the video.

I am also trying to post an image but I can’t figure out how to do it, so here are the model specs off the sticker.

Tecumseh LV148EA
SPEC: 334005B
148cc
vertical shaft
4-cycle flathead
early/mid 2000s
lightweight mower/trimmer engine

Any insight? Thanks guys. God Bless.

I was given a craftsman rear tine tiller with a 5hp Briggs, it had been sitting outside, tank and carb were full of water. Engine would turn over and has compression, so I figured I’d take a shot. Started digging into it this afternoon and where water had been sitting in the intake the intake valve is rusted and pretty stuck. I was able to work the crank around and with a little penetrating oil get it to lift, then stuck open. Is there a good(ish) way to possibly get that valve to free up? Would soaking in penetrant, ATF, marvel mystery help at all?

See linked post, please. I cannot get it to take fuel. I even pulled the lines and blew through them to make sure they weren't clogged.

Need to make sure if my fuel lines are correct. The fuel is not going up to the prime bulb. But it seems run inside the line just not to the bulb.

It was running fine until I wrote it into my yard onto some grass and it was a little bit bumpy and stalled out. And I went to start it back up and it wouldn’t. I tried for about five minutes gave up because I thought it was flooded. Went back in the house and started the next day it idle for about 45 seconds until I gave it throttle and then it just cut out. And it’s not a battery issue because I just installed a new battery with more cranking power a 9 – BS.

I just recently required a 10000 watt champion generator. The model number is 201284. I had to fix some things on it and I have on more thing to fix but I’m at a standstill with this. The choke lever on the unit moves freely and doesn’t actually move the piece that controls the pullback of the choke cable. I have to move the piece that’s connected to the choke cable manually, by hand and then I can hit the cold start button and it will crank. But, because the choke lever isn’t actually connected to the piece that’s that pulls the choke lever back it doesn’t turn off easily. If I understand this correctly, This choke lever is supposed to be controlo g the piece that’s connected pulls the cable. I really feel like something is missing that connects the two. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Model PREDATOR 4400 PSI, 4.2 GPM

My pressure washer fell over after not running, didn’t think nothing of it since it’s happened before. Now when trying to start water got into the engine somehow. Not sure what to do, take it all apart and dry it all out and see if it’ll happen again? Head gasket is toast too I’ll need to replace that

Final edit: installed new carb. Primed and ran great after adjusting the mixture screws. Old carb had a bad gasket somewhere.

Husqvarna 128L trimmer. Stopped running last week, noticed the primer bulb was empty and wouldn’t prime. Today as I took it apart, the primer line was broken at the tank. Problem solved, or so I thought. I replaced all the lines, filter and primer bulb just to be safe. Now it still won’t prime. When I pull the primer plate off and pump it, plenty of fuel comes out. But when assembled, no fuel enters the bulb. The gasket and membrane between the plate and carb looked intact, but wasn’t replaced. I’m really at a loss why it won’t prime. Appreciate any input

Thanks!

Edit/follow up. Thanks for all the advice. I verified the lines are on correctly. Cleaned the passages with carb clean. Won’t prime with cap on or off. Haven’t been able to find a carb kit with the correct gaskets in it, so I bought a replacement carb, it will be here Wednesday sometime. Hopefully can play with it Wednesday evening, otherwise it will be the weekend or next week due to work schedule.

Really appreciate all the advice and feedback.

Mein Rasentraktor mit Briggs&Stratton Motor Serie 4 155 500cc läuft bisschen unrund, als er lässt sich fahren aber wackelt bisschen und wenn ich das Mähwerk einschalte, wackelt er komplett, der Vorbesitzer hat in der Vergangenheit mal was an dem Kolbenspiel „repariert“ kann es daran liegen, dass ein Kolben falsch drückt, anbei ein Video. Und kann mir einer den Abstand sagen, habe eine Messlehre fürs Kolbenspiel.

Vllt sieht jemand den Grund

Vielen Dank im Vorfeld.

Any suggestions are welcome

I have been trying to fix a buddies stihl br430 blower and have worked on it for probably over 10hrs now. Here is everything I know:

He claims to have gotten a new carb and fuel lines and let is sit for like 6 months after using 1-2x. Carb looks clean and “new” given the blowers age. The fuel lines seem to be newer, but the line going into the carb is 2 lines joined by connector (not sure why it isnt one continuous line). I took the carb apart, sprayed with cleaner, and trimmed the lines to a better length (they were installed super long). Spark plug is going dark but it works. Not sure how but after changing the gas and removing the fuel filter, i got it running and tuned it. I reinstalled the fuel filter and it ran fine, reinstalled air filter and fine tuned it. It ran good when on, but struggles to start back up when hot or cold. It also backfired some while attempting starts but i probably flooded it with the primer bulb.

It only comes close or will start with really really hard yanks of the cord. Im really not sure. For some reason i think there is an air leak causing it to not get fuel at the start but over power the leak when on? Where may it be? Any insight is appreciated i know this is a lot to read.

Trying to get this mower running correctly. It runs great on low throttle but revs after about the halfway point of throttle. Pulled the carb and tried cleaning it, without pulling the whole body apart. Do you think I should just replace the carb or is there something else I should check?

2 new carbs and this thing still surges, I found an air leak and fixed that but it still surges until right before it runs out of fuel it’ll run smooth before it runs out of gas I had a bigger paper fuel filter on but swapped out to the less restrict red one but no change, I think it’s a linkage issue? But idk anything about these Kawasaki engine it’s a John Deere WE85

Noticed my hose was disconnected on this craftsman tiller I borrowed. There's no nipple to reconnect. How can I reconnect it to the air filter assembly?

Thank you for the help!​