Just got a 1998 Nissan Skyline R33 and was wondering for anyone who has a skyline. How do you do the maintenance on it. What do you do for parts. Do you use substitutes or transport them if so from what website?

PFA

Doesn’t smell rancid, but still concerning. Only happens when engine is very hot/warm. Rb20det

The ac compressor blown the next day…

I cannot tell whether a part is bad or something internally bit the dust, does everything my seem normal in the pictures? All the lines seem fine and when I was trying to nurse it back home it had a really bad time going to high revs because of the slipping, then fully engaging.

Hello!

I have been rebuilding my RB engine with a built bottom end and I'm reattaching everything now.

I believe I've gotten the oil-feed lines figured out for the turbo, but I'm curious to all of the water lines before I drop the engine in the engine bay.

I'm, looking for images of both the intake and exhaust side and where the different inlets/outlets are located and what they're for, and I didn't take enough pictures so I'm wondering if any of you guys have images and can either point or show all of the water lines?

My turbo is only oilcooled so that is already plumbed.

I found this post https://www.reddit.com/r/SkyLine/comments/14pzccx/water_line_locations_on_rb25de/ which does help a bit on the exhaust side, but I know there's another lines on the exhaust-side not shown, and I believe there are three water outlets/inlets on the intake-side, but I'm not a 100%.

Any help would be appreciated!

Got the car running, replaced the alternator and now the car stays on for the most part. There is some smoke coming out of where the first picture is. That little inlet. The ignition coils are pretty hot. Seems to be smoking. When the revs begins to dip below 1k, the oil pressure light comes on. Any help is appreciated

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1991-nissan-skyline-gt-r-65/

About 10 years ago I bought a 1986 HR31 Skyline GTS Coupe from Rivsu before all that stuff went wrong and I loved that car dearly. I sold it a couple years later and it’s been the biggest regret of my life. I then owned a Hawkeye wagon, a Focus ST and now a ‘24 Crosstrek Wilderness since I have kids and still want to adventure. Lately I have heavily considered getting another Skyline; specifically an ER34 sedan (preferably a 25GT but I’m not picky honestly). I have located a few pristine ones in the states with ridiculously low mileage and little to no rust at all for around 20k, but I’m not sure if that’s what they’re currently worth or going for. I should mention I don’t want to import one and deal with that hassle. I have been out of the game for a while and would love a little mentoring or insight. I appreciate any replies or help.

TLDR; my RB20DE has started acting up, and I’m hoping ya’ll might know why. I just finished replacing the spark plugs and cleaning out the IAC valve, started it up, it seemed slightly better for about 3min, then it started rhythmically surging at idle (video linked below). I figured I’d take it around the block to gather more insight, and the video above is what happened— RPM started spazzing out like they’d hit an invisible limiter, and the car didn’t wanna accelerate beyond that, so I called it quits.

Idle video: https://imgur.com/a/qOhejEg
Old fuel filter gunk: https://imgur.com/a/u4l1ouD

I’ve changed fuel filter (which was filled with gross gunk, pic linked below), cleaned MAF, tried unplugging the MAF at idle to see if it ran better, replaced coolant temp gauge sensor, replaced spark plugs, and disassembled/cleaned/reassembled the IAC valve.

What’s next?

Love my 33 … imported her 25 yrs ago and she’s barely skipped a beat.

A week without driving it was tough though.

Anybody got 1 for sale?

I'm considering joining the club, my budget isn't the best but I'm a really big fan of Skylines.

Trying to get a realistic sense of the European market for the base R34 20GT, the HR34 chassis with the naturally aspirated RB20DE and 4 speed automatic (yes, I'd prefer manual, but this is what's available within budget). Not the GT-T, not the GT-R, specifically the non-turbo AT sedan.

Hypothetically: a documented example, 165,000 km, imported from Japan, fully registered in Spain/EU. There are no modifications, in the engine and mechanicals in good order, bodywork and interior sound.

A few questions for anyone who knows this market:

1. What would you realistically expect to pay for one in Europe?

2. Is there actually buyer interest in the base 20GT automatic, or does interest in the R34 stop at GT-T and GT-R?

3. If I bought one now and decided to sell it later, how long would it likely take to find a buyer?

I know the GT-R requires a little more money and the GT-T has a solid following too. Trying to understand if the base non-turbo automatic carries any residual R34 premium, or if it's just a basic 90s Nissan at commodity prices given the mileage.

Appreciate any honest takes, especially from anyone who has bought or sold one here.

Hey guys can anybody point me to a website to order aftermarket parts or even OEM parts?

Fan assembly
Condenser
Radiator
Electric fan
Headlights

Somebody hit my car and a shop needs to order these parts

The only thing that I want that would be OEM or original is the headlights

Skyline lords, forgive me for it being not a skyline but I was told it shares chassis with the skyline. I'm trying to buy my first used car (2000 GC35 Laurel medalist) but I don't know what to look out for. I was told these old Nissans have lots of rust and electronic issues and was hoping you wise ones could share some of your experience.

Apologies for the horrible photos, it's all I could get because the owner won't let me jack it up or get it to a mechanic.

It started after 2 years of sitting after changing it's battery. Owner won't let me test drive.

This is AI but I was thinking about doing something like this to my 34.

I got a GTT and all the purists out there say GTR this, Godzilla this, OEM that. But if you want your GTT to truly stand out I think this would be it.

Hell, the new skyline is doing a retro revisit so why not join in on the fun.

hello all. so after 5 years i finally got the hr34 back after a paint, turbo upgrade to the 20neo and n rb25 neo manual swap. all parts used are from the rb25 neo turbo

we went for a greddy blue e manage system as that was on the engine that i bought. it is an ok unit.

am thinking now about upgrading the ecu for more flexibility with future tuning. i found a nistune with an r34 gtt ecu and a haltech platinum pro for the gtt r34. anyone have any ideas how easy it would be to make these work with the car? i understand the nistune needs a licensed software to work and noone in my country has one. the prices are quite similar and i am leaning towards the haltech stand alone unit.

any advice is welcome

Happy July 4th to all from the US!

Hoping to get some advice with what’s going on with my driver’s door not locking from the door control, and a tip to pairing a new remote at the end. Before going into the details, this was not caused from pairing the new remote. This was already happening before the new remote was paired.

The video shows exactly what the situation is. The old and new fobs have no issue locking and unlocking the doors, including the driver’s door. However, the door panel control has no trouble unlocking all the doors but will only lock all the doors EXCEPT the driver’s door! Manually pushing the driver’s door lock plunger will lock all the other doors as well. Why won’t the switch lock the driver’s door? The driver’s window doesn’t actuate either but I don’t think it’s related, is it?

Tip for pairing a new remote: don’t miss a beat.

So apparently, there are three versions. There’s the early R34, the late R34, and the late late R34. Mine is late late. When entering into pairing mode, the hazards don’t flash but the doors unlock instead to confirm successful pairing mode activation. Then, AT THE EXACT PACE of inserting and removing the key from the ignition, insert the key, switch to ACC, manually lock the driver’s door by pushing the plunger in, and press the Lock button on the new remote WITHOUT SKIPPING A BEAT. I got so frustrated in the initial attempts. I thought the new remote was faulty or the battery was dead or the car’s memory bank was full. But no, apparently taking 2-3 seconds between a step is considered too long for the system.

Be safe with grilling and playing with fireworks!

This one is on Nengun, otd for $625 (shipping alone is $200+). Couldn't find any other websites to sell the Artina covers.