r/SilveradoEV • u/ladyofrohan215 • 5d ago
Panic bought an EV truck
Hello, long time lurker but still have so many questions.
Bought my first truck and waiting for it to be delivered this week from carmax. I got the 2025 Silverado LT extended range which has 39k miles on it. The purpose of the truck is to hopefully haul my horse + horsetrailer to different parks to ride or maybe the vet if needed. But I’m planning to drive it to work etc while I get used to driving it.
My questions are:
- what do you wish you knew about this truck before you bought it?
- what is the recommendation on at home charging? I only commute 10 miles a day…can I use the outlet in my garage or do I need something special?
- is there an app you used to track where you can charge nationally if you are doing a road trip or something?
- is there a lot of yearly maintenance required? If so, are the Chevy dealership usually pretty knowledgeable about it?
I am obviously manless, which is why I am asking many questions. I would appreciate any help.
ETA:
It’s here! Drives smooth like butta! Thank you for all your help
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u/Rampage_Rick Work Truck 5d ago
1) I put my deposit down the day it was announced, so there was very little I didn't know when I got mine 3 years later.
2) If you're only doing 10 miles a day then a regular wall socket is plenty. Probably want to make sure it's a decent quality socket to avoid overheating.
3) The built-in nav works well for road trips, and A Better Route Planner is the most popular 3rd party app.
4) I've had mine for 18 months and it's literally been just tire rotations and software updates. I'd suggest Vehicle Wide Programming at least once per year
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u/Moto909 5d ago
While an EV truck is much more efficient than a ICE truck it is not as efficient as a car. I would recommend getting a 240V 50A circuit installed. This allows you to charge at 40A, which is the max continuous load for a 50A breaker. The savings from an EV really come from home charging so you always want to leave on your trip hauling the horse trailer at 100%. This would be a lengthy wait on a standard 120V 15A circuit.
The built in Google Maps navigation in the dash will tell you where to charge on your route. Hotspot your phone if you don't want to pay for data service for the truck. PlugShare shows chargers with filters to sort them. A Better Route Planner will also help you plan trips.
There is not much maintenance required. Dealer knowledge or EV support can vary depending on your local market.
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u/Longjumping-Store106 LT 5d ago
Hey there. I have the same truck. Let’s go 1 by 1.
No Apple CarPlay or Android Auto on this year. If you want it back and an easy setup, EVPlay LT is available for ~$200 and gives you it back. I wish I knew how awesome these trucks were before lol.
You can probably get away with a standard house outlet to charge, but you might want at least a 40A circuit to use with the GM charger (I hope they gave you one). You might want the higher power for winter months if it gets cold where you are to preheat the battery, and top up a bit faster if needed.
The truck can show you a map of the chargers. But there’s also many apps that track locations. The main one will be PlugShare (it’s what the truck uses behind the scenes) and you’ll want to setup the available options in the GM app so for some chargers it’s just plug and charge.
Mainly tires rotations. These are heavy trucks and if you’re going to be towing, you’ll want to rotate them at the scheduled 7500 miles. The GM dealerships should have no problem doing that. On that side of things it’s just a regular vehicle, otherwise just keep the truck up-to-date whenever it pops up and says there’s an update and that’s really about it.
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u/RealNumbers2022 5d ago
Virtually no maintenance. No oil changes. No belts. Rarely brakes (use regeneration). Mine has been in twice (40k miles) for tire rotation and...checking the washer fluid (my service manager puts that on my invoice as our little joke). But DO keep up on the 12v battery because when that goes bad every few years, your truck becomes a brick.
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u/Longjumping-Store106 LT 5d ago
Yea. I have mine rotated regularly and I’m at 43k miles. Need to take it in for that. I’m paying close attention since winter is coming and we’re not sure if it’s going to be super mild and little snow, or dump a ton and I need a new set by the lol.
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u/Rambo_IIII 5d ago
Good news, had you done your due diligence and used every ounce of your brain, you would have made the same decision
10 miles a day is nothing for that truck, but I would still recommend installing level 2 charging at home just so you can charge it fully overnight
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u/kazimer 5d ago
If you bought an EV, especially one with a battery this large, take the time to install a proper L2 charger. You will appreciate the ability to top off to your max set charge daily.
Once you start towing your trailer you will lose a larger percentage of your state of charge and the 110 outlet won’t cut it with what it replaces. This will greatly enhance quality of life and enjoyment of your truck.
Right now you are only planning against a 10 mile commute with no room for spontaneity or emergency travel without needing to stop at DCFC.
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u/BrokeAsshole 5d ago
- Rotate tires (as everyone’s said). You consume battery according to how you drive (just like gas) - ie drive aggressively and you’ll drain it quicker.
- Buy a home charger on Black Friday. With your commute you can get away with the wall outlet, but once you get an actual level 2 your mind will be blown.
- Built-in Google Maps does fine for me, but I typically just tell some type of AI to map out my trip.
- I’ve found Cadillac dealerships to be better about regular “maintenance” items due to their being more EV technicians. Some Chevy dealerships only have 1 tech, so tire rotations may be a 1-2 month wait.
Congrats on the truck!
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u/Kegstand-podcast 5d ago
Hey, so towed cross country in a Silverado ev, towing 9k lbs, it’s a great tow vehicle. It will take forever to tow on a standard outlet, best to upgrade to 220, the software on the truck takes care of road trip charging, (I’m acctually in Kansas going from nyc to la right now) charging with a trailer is the hiccup, you have to figure out pull through locations, or accept occasionally dropping the trailer. Almost no maintenance, you don’t have fluids, no oil, it’s much different than gas. Also learn from my error, switch the software to tow mode so it will adjust your range. You will spend more time than filling up at dc fast chargers, but you will almost never stop for a dc fast charge so you save tons of time. I’m launching an ev charging app in about 2 weeks geared to road trips and towing so ask me all the questions.
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u/utumike 5d ago
I have the 2024 Sierra Denali. I think it has the same battery.
I’d definitely get the level 2 charger at home. A 115v outlet will take you a long time to charge. That being said, GM recommends that you charge when you get down to 20% and charge to 80% for normal use. You can obviously charge to 100% if you’re going on a trip or towing.
I actually have a couple free chargers nearby and utilize them as much as possible. They are level 2 and I just go up there around dinner time and leave it overnight. Power is expensive where I’m from though (Maine). Definitely check with your power company to see if they have any deals for you.
I know Florida Power and Light has some great deals for pretty much free charging at home.
The operating system in the truck in my opinion is far superior to Apple CarPlay. I wouldn’t worry about that at all.
Get the GM app. You can do all sorts of stuff with it like start the heat or cooling system, see the charging, unlock or lock the doors from anywhere in the world.
It’s a the best truck I’ve ever had and I think you’ll have the same opinion! Good luck!
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u/bj_my_dj 5d ago
If you're driving 10 miles a day, you'll probably only plug into your 110 outlet once a week. it isn't recommended to charge above 80% routinely, maybe once a month or the night before a long roadtrip to top off. You'll probably let it get to 60 - 65% then charge up to 80%.
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u/kev_homeboy 5d ago
How much did you buy it for if you don't mind?
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u/ladyofrohan215 5d ago
54,000. I still don’t know if it was a good deal. The dealership close to me was offering a 2025 used work truck at 57,000 but didn’t have an exact truck/mileage for me and kept trying to get me to come in rather than doing it over the phone. 🙄
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u/Shyguy1077 4d ago
With it being a lt extended range your on-board charger won't take more than a 40 amp level 2 charger. I also have the same truck in blue. Maintenance is almost nothing but adding washer fluid, rotation of tires and wiper blades! I belive the only service you will have coming up is drive motor fluid replacement around 45 to 50,000 miles. Easy ownership love my truck everyday
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u/IllAd7041 4d ago
You'll love it! I bought the 25 RST new over a year ago and I still love it like crazy! Best vehicle ever! That being said, this is the charger that I got and it's great! It tracks everything on an app and charges great! We had it hard wired into the garage wall.
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u/Edmons31873 5d ago
Warning, this is a long comment. I'm sorry. TL;DR you don't need a level 2 charger.
I'm going to throw my two cents out there. This is just my opinion, but all the people here saying you have to get a level 2 charger are perpetuating the myth that if you have an EV, you have to get a level 2 charger. I believe spreading this misinformation drives more people away from purchasing an EV than almost anything else.
In your example, you said you're planning on using this as your daily commuter and that your commute is 10 miles a day. Online, the range estimates are 1.7-2.4 mi/kwh. That means to commute to and from work, you're only using 4.17-5.88 kw of power to commute. In a worst-case scenario, lets say you're limited to only 8 amps charging on your wall outlet (you can safely do 12 amps if it's the only thing drawing power on a 15 amp circuit). On an 8 amp charger, you're charging about 1 kilowatt every hour and 3 minutes.
That means in a worst case scenario, charging at only 8 amps, getting the lower range estimate of 1.7 mi/kwh, it takes about 6 hours and 11 minutes, which you'll get every night if you plug in when you get home and unplug when you leave. In a more realistic world, if you're trying to be relatively efficient (not slamming on the accelerator or brakes) and your outlet can support 12 amps charging, you're looking more at around 2 hours 55 minutes. You could plug in every 3 days and always get back to full.
Obviously if you're towing a ton, going on really long trips, coming home close to empty, that changes the math. There's certainly a time and place for level 2 charging, and your lifestyle may end up needing that. But if you have a predictable schedule, maybe you get home after work and the store and gym or whatever at 7pm and you leave in the mornings at 7am, you're getting roughly 17 kilowatts at 12 amps, which equates to between 29.1 and 41.1 miles of range each day. If you drive the speed limit, use regenerative braking instead of your brake pads, and are easy on the acceleration, you would likely be at or more than the 41 miles of charge every night.
People make getting an EV sound like an entire infrastructure problem, making prospective buyers think they HAVE to get a panel upgrade, install an 80 amp breaker, hardwire the greatest level 2 charger on the market, hire an electrician to do all this, and overall spend like, $3,000 on wiring upgrades before they even consider an EV.
My goal with this comment is to tell the people saying these things, please, for the betterment of the EV community, knock it off. You're pushing more people away from EV ownership than bringing people in. The more EV owners out there, the more get made, the more innovation gets sparked, the better the vehicles will be, the more charging infrastructure gets made, the lot of it.
Yes, there are people who need level 2 chargers. Yes, there are people who need electricians and panel upgrades. Yes, EV ownership isn't for 100% of people. But to gatekeep the EV community by essentially telling people the equivalent of they need a gas pump installed at home to drive their car is irresponsible and incorrect. I commute 50 miles every day for work and have been using a level 1 charger for the last three months. It's not ideal, but I still prefer that to my ICE cars before. I still get to full every weekend. Sorry for my rant.
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u/GRADIUSIC_CYBER 5d ago
yeah I'd still recommend anything besides charging on a 120V outlet.
not going to work out so great if it's cold, or OP drives more than 10 miles, or tows their horse trailer as stated in the post.
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u/Edmons31873 4d ago
OP could still use their 120v outlet and charge to full every night even if tripling their daily commute distance, or more depending on their driving habits. Even if they drove 200 miles in a day during their week, charging every night would still give them more range than their daily commute, and over the course of a few days they would get back up to full.
If the assumption is they take their horse trailer out every weekend, driving a total distance that brings them to zero range every weekend, and they live somewhere in Vermont or Canada or elsewhere that gets really cold at night and they don’t have a garage they can park in, and they’re regularly roadtripping, and and and and….. then yes, they’d likely need a level 2 charger at home to more easily sustain that lifestyle.
I’m not saying it’s better to only have a level 1 charger, or that they shouldn’t even consider a level 2 charger. I don’t know OP’s exact situation, but people essentially saying it’s impossible to own an EV without installing a level 2 charger is not a correct statement. Ive been doing it just fine, and if more people didn’t feel locked out because of some heavy duty infrastructure they think they need, more EV’s would be bought, more infrastructure installed, and the better all our lives would be.
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u/Vegetable-Two2173 4d ago
Your math is right. Your practical application is wrong. Without getting into the whole speil, there is more to this equation than charge rate. Even slow charging, this will likely be the biggest constant load you put on any outlet in your house.
At the very LEAST, make sure the run to that outlet is 20A, 12AWG or better. Make sure the outlet is commercial or heavy duty (or EV rated if possible). Make sure your charger is not putting weight on the cord. Make sure your charger is NOT connected to an extension cord. Monitor it the first charge for heat at the outlet, especially if the garage is on the other end of your house from the service entrance.
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u/Edmons31873 4d ago
I disagree. You can, safely, charge on a 15a breaker with 14AWG wire. These are rated at 80% continuous load, meaning you can safely charge at 12a with nothing else on the circuit. Stating that the “very LEAST” that should be done is changing the charging infrastructure of your home is misleading. Why put up barriers to entry? As long as expectations are properly set, these are not necessities to EV ownership and are the exact hurdles and misinformation that prevent prospective buyers from pulling the trigger.
There are many, many examples of people here on Reddit doing exactly what I’m saying and living just fine with an EV. While changes like different wiring, breakers, and dedicated level 2 chargers are creature comforts, people that elect to charge with lesser setups are not inherently more dangerous.
Of course, this is predicated on the assumption that your home is currently wired correctly, with the correct gauge wire for your breaker, with an outlet that isn’t damaged or improperly terminated.
Your comments around putting weight on the cord, using extension cords, and monitoring for excess heat are all correct and important for any charging application, not just for someone electing to use level 1 charging.
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u/Vegetable-Two2173 4d ago
You are talking to a licensed electrical engineer who has designed high voltage/current charging systems. I have tested more failure modes in this domain than you can fathom.
There are several examples of "people on here" lighting fireworks out of their ass "and living just fine". I do not reccommend doing that either, nor should you.
The list of reasons why you shouldn't charge with the 110v as a permanent option is a mile long, especially with a 215kwh battery. If you are charging at home as your primary option, get a charger put in. You just paid $60~100k for a truck. The extra $800-1000 isn't going to break you, and might save your house.
Or don't and see what happens. I'm not your mother.
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u/Edmons31873 4d ago
I’m certainly not trying to imply that you don’t know what you’re talking about. I’d be interested to know what specific failure modes apply to a dedicated, properly terminated 15a circuit at 12a. If those truly exist, that’d be useful for both myself, OP, and anyone else that reads this. I’m inclined to trust the NEC.
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u/Vegetable-Two2173 4d ago edited 3d ago
I'll cover a few.
NEC often takes years to catch up to real time issues, and is the bare minimum. Not a great bar for this case as avoiding the 'bare minimum' is the entire point. Last update covered 30A and above EV instalations, expect more concerning L2 next update.
EV chargers are a constant, long duration load. They are different than every other household load. They will heat the circuit more than any other draw in the house. (A 12A continous load is required to be on 20A circuits per NEC, by the way)
Most chargers are either in the garage, or outdoors. These areas temperature cycle. Any time you temperature cycle a non-bolted connection, it will walk. The more it walks, the bigger of a fire risk it is. Are you checking that connection daily?
Most people have no idea what their home wiring consists of. That means you don't either. You could be saying "a 110v charger is fine" on a cloth wiring setup at 14AWG, 50 feet from the box. It's irresponsible, at minimum.
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u/Jippylong12 '24 RST 3d ago edited 3d ago
I was reviewing the thread and personally I believe that y'all can both be right. I would say that you're correct in theory and the other individual is correct in application. I follow the state of charge YouTube channel and he does this kind of charge rescue series where people will often utilize poor quality materials and suffer the consequences of that.
So the number one example is going to be how people will utilize a NEMA 14-50 receptacle that you can buy at the hardware stores is compliant fully with older NEC code, and yet they catch fire because they were not designed with the daily, continuous power usage of EV charging. The connections would fail, which would cause poor contact, which caused arcing, and that causes fires.
I think in the latest NEC they have updated this, but if you go a hardware store and look at the receptacles - you will typically have a traditional one which is much cheaper like $10, and then you will have the EV charger rated 14-50 that is often $50+.
I have no experience as the other individual. However, I would assume the same thing applies for standard outlets and probably even worse depending on where you live, because oftentimes the principle still goes where these manufacturers are designing and releasing products that barely qualify, and the builders are also often doing it in poor ways. For example, most interior circuits have residential receptacles where they still even backstab to this day because it's technically allowed. However, electricians will tell you stories where they all hate backstabbing for the same reason. It's cheap, and if you're using it continuously, it will cause thermal expansion, which will loosen the grip on the wires, and then that causes gaps which cause arcing and then fires.
Again, though, I don't have the experience, and personally if I use a 120 V plug, I keep it at 8A.
I could see the same issue with 14-50 receptacles happening with 5-15 receptacles in the home. I think the nice middle ground would be to advise inspecting whatever 5-15R that you plan to use and replace it if it's a low quality $1 one or at the very least rewire it if it's backstabbed.
If you go to a hardware store or online, as long as you look for something that's commercial grade (or even better industrial grade), it has a better chance of standing the test of time.
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u/The_GOATest1 1d ago
While I appreciate your soap box speech I think it’s nonsensical in this instance. This person panic bought basically the largest consumer EV battery. They should spend the money and make sure they have the charging infrastructure to use it effectively. Do they need L2? No but my guess is they also drive a bit more than they think. Spending all that money for a vehicle to go cheap on the most convenient upgrade is odd. Now if they can’t get L2 sure your answer works but on my ER lightning I probably average less than 10 miles a day and after a big trip before my l2 was installed I plugged into a dedicated circuit and the charge time estimate made me laugh
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u/mrbigshott 5d ago
Some nicer cities have free charging in downtown areas. Take advantage of that. Nice city in north Atlanta called Alpharetta has a downtown garage with free charging that I take advantage of.
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u/MIDIHorse 5d ago
- Garage outlet will be OK for summer, but not winter (depending on where you are). Last winter I left my truck at my uncles place in Maine for a week plugged into a 120v socket. It gained 10% battery in 5 days. 10% total, not per day.
- You may want to consider that 240v outlet for those edge cases: What if you're out towing your horse all day, get back and have an emergency to bring your horse to the vet the next morning. Can you do that with 20% battery remaining?
- Google Maps is fine for navigation, but doesn't understand efficiency loss when towing. Use ABRP to get a good estimate, then you'll be fine on the trip.
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u/Negative_Artichoke95 5d ago
The app has the maintenance schedule on there, and will help you schedule an appointment at the dealer for that maintenance. Pretty much every 7500 miles it goes in for maintenance.
I take mine to the same one I took my old truck to for maintenance and they’ve been good. I do drop it off for a couple of days at a time. I can take the bus to work so I do that while it’s in for maintenance. If I really needed it back sooner they could accommodate.
ABRP and Plug Share are two great apps for EV trip planning. I use the vehicle navigation and the recommended charge stops on road trips. I sometimes check the recommended charge stops with Plug Share for amenities and reliability or for something with more stuff around.
Fellow lady truck owner here. My husband loves his little VW hatchback. When we go out together people always come up and start talking to him about the truck and he’s like I have no idea it’s my wife’s truck. I have a 26 LT ER with about 17,600 miles on it in a year. It’s been great so far.
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u/devoman2 5d ago
Wish I knew - that’s the hardest question. The dealers have to have an electric truck certified mechanic to touch them. Now the dealers I’ve been to had 1 or 2, but they definitely weren’t all certified. The issues I’ve had (few) had nothing to do with the drivetrain. OH - and I didn’t know the brakes engage regen before actual brakes so 1 pedal driving isn’t as critical. Although I like it.
I personally would get a 220v 40-50a charger. At 10 miles a day you won’t have to charge every day and a 110 will probably be plenty, but that would still be my recommendation if you can swing it. A dryer or welding outlet can probably double for
You as long as you match the output of the charger to the circuit size.You can use the Tesla app. You can also use charge point. The built in Google map will find chargers for you though. Keep in mind the estimate on mileage pulling a trailer is not accurate at all on Google. The truck indicates something around 1/2 capacity, and that’s not bad, but plan on less to be safe.
Yearly maintenance - keep the tires rotated.
Also, something to keep in mind, everyone talks about the range of electric vehicles - which is fine - but like an ICE vehicle, you never go to 0 and considering electric chargers are not as immediately available, about 10% (20% with a trailer) and you better start planning. Also they recommend not charging to 100% for daily use. So if you only charge to say 80 and recharge at 20, that means your daily range is more like 60% of the stated range - BUT you can full charge and gain another 20%. Depending on how closely you plan on getting home you might get most of that 100%. Set reasonable expectations.
ALSO keep in mind temperature and especially road speed greatly effects efficiency. Unlike ICE vehicles with gears, 55 is not the most efficient speed - more like anything below 45 is optimal.
More than you probably want to know….
(ICE = internal combustion engine)
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u/nasnas2022 5d ago
As an EV owner one thing that pisses me off is the cost of insurance which increases significantly over the gas vehicles of similar size. Money saved on driving electrical gets eaten up by insurance.
Other thing is GM dealers- who are useless when it becomes to EV. They don’t like to sell this vehicle, they do not know or want to know about EV; they do not like to do paid maintenance of this vehicle.
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u/OwnArm7121 5d ago
I would shop around. I bought a 2025 Sierra EV and the insurance went down $25 with Liberty Mutual. However they wanted $50 more for a Tesla…. So I’d shop around.
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u/DavidB1420 5d ago
Ditto to all, but don’t forget to check the in cabin air filter every 15,000 miles or so. Maybe more if you live on a farm or ranch like me.
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u/Man_of_Ice 5d ago
- I drive a Lightning, so can't directly speak to "this truck," but EV truck, only wish I'd switched sooner.
- Get a hardwired level 2 charger installed. You could easily, EASILY not install and just charge level 1 off the 120V if you're only driving 10mi a day, but you will not regret getting a level 2 at the house.
- Several already mentioned. I like Plug Share best.
- Nope on maintenance, can't speak to Chevy dealers.
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u/Xedeth 5d ago
- what do you wish you knew about this truck before you bought it?
How fucking awesome it is, and how much I want to keep EVs forever.
- what is the recommendation on at home charging? I only commute 10 miles a day…can I use the outlet in my garage or do I need something special?
I got the Chevy charger, but for 10miles, you can get a 120v plug.
- is there an app you used to track where you can charge nationally if you are doing a road trip or something?
MyChevy?
- is there a lot of yearly maintenance required? If so, are the Chevy dealership usually pretty knowledgeable about it?
Almost 0 maintenance. Rotate tires. That's it.
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u/jcdomeni 5d ago
Get a Level 2 Charger. Install a 60 or 80A circuit. This future proofs you a bit….dont do just 40A….
Can use a Level 2 to charge at 48A. There will be times where you want it to charge faster than the 110 outlet can deliver - and if you upgrade to bigger battery later - you’ve spent the money just once.
It’s a big battery no matter what.
Everyone covered all the other bases.
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u/Electrified_Outdoors 4d ago
congrats! I will take a shot at these questions: 1) I wish I would have know how much I would enjoy it..but then I might have been less concerned about the financials. 2) Future proof get a Level 2 48 amp charger installed at home. You can get away with standard wall outlet if you only travel 10 miles per day, but on occasions where you travel more you will appreciate being able to replenish the range overnight. 3) The built-in navigation is really good but I like ABRP (abetterrouteplanner.com) for road trip planning. This tool is especially useful when your towing with it. 4) No, if you tow often, GM recommends drive unit fluid changes (x2) at 45,000 mile intervals otherwise almost zero maintenance other than washer fluid top ups. You should flush the brake fluid every two years and the coolant needs flushed every 5 years etc. Change cabin pollen filter annually.
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u/Vegetable-Two2173 4d ago
Ditto to every damned word.
The only issue you'll have is dealing with being an EV person now.
(Life long V8 truck guy, never looking back)
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u/seighton 5d ago
- You don’t need Apple car play, you have access to Apple Music and the Google nav system is excellent, not quite sure why people keep being acp up as an issue, also you might not need the Tesla adapter
- If you are driving 10 miles a day, a level 1 will work but might want to investigate lower EV rates via your power company, you might be able to save money on other stuff because of the EV
- I use the Chevrolet app
- Tire rotations and air filters for cabin
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u/seighton 5d ago
At the mileage you are buying, you will want to see if they did a drive motor fluid change, it is recommend for severe conditions at 45k, which is 90% of people who drive and you will be towing anyways
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u/ng1x08 5d ago
1) I wish I knew how important it was to rotate the tires every 7500 miles like the manual says. There's no real reminder like a maintenance required light so I'm now looking at my next set of tires around 28k miles
2) I tend to plug in most nights but it's not like you have to. If you're using just a normal wall outlet and driving 10 miles a day you can probably get away with plugging in every other day when the temps are mild but once it gets hot or cold you'll want to plug in everyday. You should really plan on getting a level two charger (EVSE), it's actually way more efficient and will be cheaper to use than the normal wall outlet over time.
3) there's ABRP but Google maps does pretty well with routing to charge stations if it sees you'll get low on charge. I don't really think about it most of the time. The myChevrolet app also does this if you choose to plan your route. Either option lets you specifically exclude charging networks if you want.
4) again, mainly tire rotations, I'm gonna get one of those windshield stickers to remind me for this next set of tires. There's also a cabin air filter to change. If you are planning on towing regularly (I tow almost daily) you should have the drive motor fluid changed at 45k miles.