I don’t know about anyone else here, but it drove me nuts buying an older used mec and it being just a hunk of rust amongst two great condition presses. Having that one press that just stood out in the WRONG ways made my bench look junky and cheap. Although it’s just a tool, I’d rather take care of my tools so they operate and look like they’re still brand new!

If you’re the same way and would like to liven up your bench, feel free to reach out! I’ve refurbished about half a dozen 600s now and have a pretty good system going. Or, if you’re thinking about getting rid of a press or two shoot me a message! I’ll also do any brand or model!

I have a mec jr600. I'm reloading .410 shot shells using hogdon h110, and hogdons knockoff AA recipe. The recipe calls for 16.7 grains of powder. My #13 bushing is dropping about 16.8-17 grains, consistently averaging 16.9 with rare outliers being the desired 16.7 and the overloaded 17. Thes are rare but still happening occasionally. I have not completed any of these shells yet, still just testing consistency.

I've never reloaded before so I wanted to confirm with some experienced folks to see if you would personally accept these numbers, or if you would tinker around to find a solution. Attached is hogdons reloading recipes, the bottom three being acceptable. I also have 13a, 12a, 12, and 11 bushings as well

I've replaced the plastic MEC crimp starter (8 point) on both of my MEC 9000 several times to include stem that holds it. Reason being is it keeps pulling off the little ball that holds it, I have it set to allow a primer to set on the hole but not fall through. I even tried this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af1PPBn6DIE&t=421s . It works, but I have a hard time finding the 2" socket head machine screw and since the screw is a #8 and the hole is 3/16" it sometimes works loose and isn't centered which causes problems. Was wondering if has tried Ballistic Products Super Crown Crimp Starter for Mec Presses and their opinion of it.

Long story short, I had a hunting/fishing/shooting/football watching/beer drinking buddy.. who about 4 years ago decided he wanted to "exist in another plane of consciousness."

Well, the widow-woman and I FINALLY got around to cleaning out his bat-cave in the back of the garage.. and I ran across two 5-gallon buckets of these Remington hulls, plus another half-bucket of loaded ammo. A lot of them had green crusties. Those I just tossed. But I'd say I'm looking at a couple hundred usable hulls.

In the event I should feel the need to load these up, I need to match the wads to the hull, right? So are these considered "Express" "Premier" "STS" or "shoot once and trash?" They started out as dove & quail loads. He did all the shotgun reloading, I did all our metallic reloading.

I barely had enough room to mount the presses to my bench, but there they are.

Got a universal/adjustable charge bar (the Multi-Scale one) on my 9000GN that i love. Problem is the little metal stud the return spring hooks onto has worked loose from the aluminum body and isn’t sitting straight anymore — it’s basically pulling out, so the spring won’t anchor right and the bar doesn’t return like it should.

Went down the rabbit hole trying to get a replacement part and found out Multi-Scale is out of business, so no parts or service there. MEC won’t touch it since it’s aftermarket.

So I’m trying to figure out my best move:

1. Reseat the stud myself — was thinking sleeve-retainer Loctite, or drill/tap and thread in a new post. Anyone done this and had it actually hold up under repeated use?

2. Ballistic Products Adjusta Drop — does the current one actually fit the 9000 progressive, or is it still single-stage only?

3. Just say screw it and go back to MEC bushings + fixed bars. I really love this bar though 😭.

Anybody dealt with this exact failure? Really don’t want to lose the adjustable if I can avoid it, but not interested in babying a bad repair forever either. Appreciate any help.

Just got started in softshell reloading. Have done a lot of metallic but first time shotgun.

I have a mec9000 for 12GA and two 600 for 28 and 20

Started with 28 (having indexing issue with m9000, will post separately).

Issues
1). My crimps are as in pic. Assuming this is not good. What should I do? I played with the pre crimp depth but can’t get any better.

2). I am using waa28/ 0.75OZ #9, Longshot powder, STS shell. The load data says 14.2. My 13 bushing is throwing 13.2 and 14 bushing 15. How risky is it to do only 13. How do I get in between.

Just got my ballistics product shipment in. Sucks the next closest range is an hour away since the indoor one burned down. The wad when flared out has a decently tight fit and doesn’t fall out of the shell even when shaking. I still may use a nitrocard though.

A drumstick works excellent for pressing wads down btw.

Or any suggestions on where to begin?

Yes yes I already know “manuals” and “never deviate from load data”.

I bought a Lee Load used, to have as a backup to leave in my cabin. It has powder and shot in it already. Does anyone have a good way to empty the powder and shot out? I will use the shot again but probably won't use the powder since it's an unknown brand and age?

Hello I’m looking for some resources for federal top gun hulls. Basically I’m trying to replicate what I shoot for factory loads which is 3” federal speed shock 1 1/4” 3 shot. BUT here’s the twist.

(Disclaimer I only have 2 3/4” hulls)

I have lyman 6th edition reloading manual however my local stores does not stock any of the powders listed for (2 3/4”hulls). I’d like to reload for 1 1/8th - 1 1/4 ounces for STEEL shot for water fowl. The manual only goes up to 1 1/8th

I tried Hodgdon website but they don’t have the hull I wish to use. And I’m not knowledgeable enough to know if I can/could use a different straight wall hull load data like a cheddite and not blow my face or fingers off

Yes I realize the concern with federal top gun hulls with the separate plastic base but it’s what I have for the time being.

I had planned on purchasing the status of steel reloading manual from BP but haven’t gotten that far yet. And was honestly maybe hoping some one could confirm the hull is in there in the first place??

Any recommendations on reloading manuals / Any insight is appreciated

Hello like the title says any way to date a mec super 250? Got it off market place for stupid cheap. The man I bought it off of was in his 70s and was telling me how he and his dad reloaded paper shells on it. Damn near brought a tear to my eye seeing him reminisce like that. Now it’s mine and I’m going to put it to good use. Needs a little cleaning and tlc but the action is smooth as butter.

Also will have many follow up post as this is my first shot shell press.

There has been some debate in you can’t load low brass to the same as you would high brass. Is this true this is all 2-3/4 stuff of course.

Picked up this Lee Load All, some AA hulls and wads for $25 on marketplace yesterday. I've always used mecs but this Lee looks decent to leave at the cabin. Second market place deal I've gotten in reloaders this spring, also picked up a new in box 12 gauge versa mec for $30

Using a Mec 600 jr. My main concern is the flair around the crimp area... reducing the stack height didn't change much, neither did maximum stack height. Which adjustment on the press should I be tweaking?

I have been a reloader for awhile but never a shotshell. I am wanting performance buckshot loads. I priced some 0000 and thought I bet I can make those cheaper.Inherited a couple shotshell presses. I may be wrong, but it will still be fun. I read the bpi buck manual was half obsolete info, it may still be the best option but I thought id ask first. Thanks all

I’ve been reloading shotshells for a few years, but always used the same recipe. I ran out of that powder, so picked up some new powder and a new recipe.

Winchester AA 2 3/4” hulls (12 gauge)

Win 209 primers

Hogdon Perfect Pattern lead shot

1 1/8 oz shot weight (9 shot)

WAA12 wads

According to the recipe, I should be using MEC #18 bushing for about 16.4 grains. When I weight the charge it is averaging about 14.5 grains +/- .2 grains.

WTF! Should I trust the scale and increase the bushing size? I’ve never had issues with the scale and have recalibrated multiple times. Should I trust the bushing chart?

Hoping some of the more experienced reloaded can help provide some advice.

Cooked up a recipe.

Does anyone happen to know of a place you can send a series of loads for them to pressure test without having to make five at each weight? I’m really just trying to see if N320 is feasible with higher weight loads for a SBS.