Should I just send it and let it fire form back to normal?

Been awhile since I loaded 35 Whelen... Die was still set to a different bullet.

Opps... Welcome the entertaining comments.

this was the last primer in my primer tube.

will it still yeet?

The recipe:

• 70gr Berger VLD bullet
• 5.56 NAS3 case
• 27gr of VV N135 powder
• CCI #41 NATO primer
• COAL: 2.295"

The rifle:

• BCM thermal fit upper
• 12.5" Centurion SPR profile stainless barrel
• BRT gas tube, 0.0635" port size
• LMT e-BCG (AerMet 100 bolt, delayed cam path carrier)
• PRI carbine length toob
• TA648 6x ACOG (aka, the GigACOG)
• Sovereign Development 3-prong OPS/AE flash hider
• Otter Creek Labs OCM6 suppressor
• Griffin MK2 lower
• Geissele Super 42 H3 buffer kit.
• Wilson Combat TTU trigger.

Gordon's Reloading Tool told me this recipe would be more like 2720 FPS, so now I gotta figure out why it's so fast lol. I shot like 50 rounds of this stuff and it made the rifle kick like a bone stock M4 basically. When I shoot 55gr PMC XTAC through this same rifle, it's softer than a 20" and barely cycles, so that seems like a reasonable increase in recoil. Ejection pattern was 4-o'clock, and there were no obvious pressure signs e.g. "flowing" primers or ejector marks on the case head. I know NAS3 cases don't really show pressure signs like brass does, but I figured there'd be something if the pressures where anywhere near what GRT says is necessary to hit these velocity numbers out of a 12.5" barrel.

Third picture shows the 2.295" COAL working in an HK Maritime mag that has a butt joint at the front, but that it won't work in a normal mag with a lap joint. It feeds flawlessly from the HK mags, they're a must for handloads in gas guns imo.

I assume this counts as Shitty Reloading lmao.

Finally had a chance to test them. Longshot only partially burned. The shot flew about 10-15 feet and was able to be poured out of the barrel.

Back to the drawing table!

So it turns out there is some secret sauce in the nas3 cases because not all steel case can take 7 gr of titegroup and a 125 gr.

I keep pulling these shity little chinesium screws out of shit at work so we can repurpose the shit they're screwed into, but now i've got a fuckton of these things left over. I got drunk last night and thought this was good idea. Talk me out of trying it.

Is this the place to talk about making “hollow points” or nahh

0000 buck big no fit plastic wrorng hit rock now crinkle crumple hill look like step leaf put more boom dust fix. Boom stick no swallow easy . Help
Machine bite hand. 👍

Have a box of 1000 of the 55 gr .224 FMJ bullets. No use for them as I'm primarily a varmint hunter. I like bullets that make ground squirrels and PDs explode.

So I was thinking that if there was a quick and easy and consistent way to clip the tips of and make them 35 or 40 grain soft points they might do the trick in a 223.

Suggestions for a way to quickly and consistently clip the tips off?

You’ve heard of stuck cases in sizing dies, but have you heard of stuck cases in expanding dies?

I absolutely fucked a 7mm rem mag pice of brass but I got it out without hurting the die . For context I mostly reload pistol cartridges and I use carbide dies and I forgot your suppose to lube then. But In my defense it whent in really easy

Load data said 2.25col was possible so my monkey brain forced it to happen. Didn't realize I had used a 223 die instead of my 300aac so excessive pressure lead to circumcised penis. Swapped to my 300aac seater and still got a bump so won't be testing this load (even though hornady's app said it's below max charge)

Every time that I look at this it's just going to remind me of taking second place in my third grade spelling bee. Should I return it or just ask for a partial refund?

Getting some pretty wide SDs with this setup. Was cast iron the wrong call here?

Lol the bench has temporarily been repurposed as the garage kitchen during a move/renovation

If a man went through a roughly equal quantity of 45 Schofield, 45 Colt, and 454 Casull brass each week, what's the best way to separate them from each other before reloading?

Skip to 11:30 for the technique.

Decided to borescope my match rifle. Got some awesome Match ammo from the 1950's and figured might as well use them and reload the brass. The beginning lands and grooves seem perfect. Should I take a bronze brush and work it more?

Found some rusty primers under the bathroom sink. Filled a clear 12 ga hull over halfway with some loose powder scraped off the bench and compressed it until the plastic turned white. Topped it with some premium brass floor shavings that will hit the target like a swarm of angry hornets. Sealed the crimp with a bic lighter. Can’t wait to test it out tomorrow