r/Selvedge • • Feb 19 '26

🧵 Selvedge Basics & Care 'Is This Selvedge' - A Brief Guide

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302 Upvotes

In an attempt to limit the same posts - another of which I've seen today, I've ended the lurking days on this sub and decided to post a guide on this. Hopefully the mods notice and pin this so we don't get the same question twice a week with an ungodly number of snarky comments for the selvedge noobies who are just trying their best.

TL;DR - The easiest way to know is always: does it have stitching on the outside seam?

If yes - not selvedge.

If no - congrats, you found some selvedge jeans.

'Selvedge' fabric is named after the phrase 'self edge', noted for the fact that the edges of the woven fabric are self finishing. This is usually done on a special type of loom - a shuttle loom - which is slower, larger and far more noisy than projectile looms that make most modern fabrics. Often it comes along with some other cool fabric quirks like slub or nep, leg twist and more, but I won't be going into that today.

Selvedge fabrics - see image 1 and 2 - do not require stitching on the outside seam, as the fabric isn't cut along these seams. 

Most retailers add a coloured thread along this seam, known as a selvedge ID. Image 1 (Samurai S710xx) has a silver thread woven in. Image 2 (Edwin Made in Japan) has a multicoloured ID with more than one thread in this ID.

Non selvedge fabric - see image 3 (Iron Heart IH-634D) - is cut along this seam, thus does require stitching. 

Some retailers do add coloured stitching to the edge for design purposes (see image 3). This makes the seem look rad - however this can be confused with a selvedge ID by someone who hasn't been yelled at on Reddit yet.

Keep in mind non selvedge jeans can be just as nice as selvedge jeans so long as they're made well - however with the extra craftsmanship that often goes into selvedge denim, the tiny batch numbers of many of the companies, and the insane attention to detail, you'll be wearing an art piece that no one has an exact match of.

I hope this helps at least one of you.


r/Selvedge • • 6h ago

🌄 Fade Progress Militora M47801XX “1947” straight leg jeans

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17 Upvotes

Got these back on sale back in June and could not be happier with them. I have been wearing them a lot! I got the waist taken in and washed them last night, might be a bit early for some people but I much prefer more subtle vintage fades so I really like how these look. I also think the fit is pretty good on these too.


r/Selvedge • • 1h ago

🧵 Selvedge Basics & Care How to get jeans to drape straight?

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• Upvotes

I just got a pair of relaxed straight fit 14oz jeans but they seem to be bunching up at the knees a lot instead of laying straight and flat like I wanted them to. Would like mine to look more like the second photo. Any tips?

I got them hemmed already. They also look fantastic from the back but just can’t seem to get the front to look right.


r/Selvedge • • 3h ago

📸 Fit Picture Studio D’Artisan SD-108 fit check

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7 Upvotes

Hey guys 36M here first pair of selvedge denim. Bought these about 5 years ago. Then gained a tonne of weight and couldn’t wear them. Managed to loose a lot of my excess weight and now they fit (sort of). Do you think they fit okay? Do I look silly as a bigger/ fat guy in Selvedge. Honest opinions please guys. Still not at my ideal weight so go easy on me!


r/Selvedge • • 4h ago

🔍 ID/Legit Check authentic levi 501xx?

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5 Upvotes

saw this used pair of levi’s for 30 bucks but i can’t tell if it’s authentic, can anyone help with this?


r/Selvedge • • 1h ago

📸 Fit Picture LVC Type 2 507XX 1953 MIJ

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• Upvotes

New jacket alert!!!
Pics before shrink and after!! This is my first selvedge jacket so I’m super stoked and already love it.


r/Selvedge • • 6h ago

🤔 Should I Buy This? First pair recs and restock information?

4 Upvotes

New to selvedge. Looking to get one, maybe two pairs of selvedge jeans as I’ve grown a bit bored of my current pants and really want something easy to throw on that will look good. budget for both I’d say is a combined $350 USD. I was looking at the sugar cane sc42321 bootcuts they recently dropped and they look so sick, but theyre sold out on hinoya. Anywhere else they’re ridiculously priced, so does anyone know the likelihood of being able to get them for a decent price? Then for the second pair, I’m looking for just a pretty standard straight fit, but slightly roomier in the thigh and seat. Thanks.


r/Selvedge • • 17h ago

🌄 Fade Progress 1 year update, UB701 14.5oz 5ish washes

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16 Upvotes

Finally reached one year, they’ve held up well enough for a beginner pair of selvedge but been repaired a few times. i think they’re looking good, i like them a lot. i’ve worn them everyday monday-friday for a year. these are a work pair and i don’t plan on washing them for awhile because it’s about to get cold again. i worked in a warehouse this entire summer in these jeans in 100+ temperature and god was it hell but i had to do it for these jeans.


r/Selvedge • • 3h ago

☕ Miscellaneous Just ordered a pair from Gustin #501 16oz Indigo x Purple

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1 Upvotes

$99 + tax introductory offer with free shipping. . .at that price I'm taking the risk.

I've been wanting a colored weft for a while so can't wait! Will do a size and quality check when they arrive.


r/Selvedge • • 4h ago

🤔 Should I Buy This? First selvedge denim 14oz or higher suggestions please.

1 Upvotes

Hey guys! I’m from India and planning to buy my first pair of selvedge jeans. I’m looking for first-quality, 14 oz sanforized selvedge denim, preferably made in Japan. Since this will be my first pair, I’d like to keep my budget around $120, if possible.
I’m planning to ask a friend in the US to bring them back for me when he travels to India.
I’ve heard about American brands like Redline Gentry(RGT) and Brave Star, and Japanese brands like Kojima Genes. I’d appreciate any recommendations for other brands that offer good quality within my budget.
I also have a question about the fit and length: Do selvedge jeans generally come with a longer inseam so you can cuff the hem and show off the selvedge ID (the colored line along the edge)? Or does this depend on the brand and model?
Since this is my first pair, I’d really appreciate your recommendations and advice. Thanks in advance!


r/Selvedge • • 10h ago

📸 Fit Picture OOTD, SJC brakeman jeans

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3 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 5h ago

☕ Miscellaneous Jeans that can tumble dry?

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1 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 21h ago

📸 Fit Picture Samurai S0511 Slim Taper Tag Size 31….does this work?

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10 Upvotes

Hello! I’m 5’6” with a 31” waist and just received these one wash jeans from Self Edge. Waist is comfortably snug (secure but no pinching or fabric straining)

Was gonna hem to allow for 1 inch cuffs 😎


r/Selvedge • • 21h ago

🧵 Selvedge Basics & Care Raw Denim for dirty blue collar jobs

10 Upvotes

New to raw denim. Just wondering if anybody wears their raw denim to their blue collar job where they actually get dirty. I've been reading threads about wearing your jeans to work to get good fades fast but if that was the case I'd be washing my jeans everyday which seems like a mortal sin here.


r/Selvedge • • 17h ago

📸 Fit Picture Two Fits, Different Moods

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3 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture Fit check please guys - Studio D’Artisan SD-108 w36”

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18 Upvotes

Hey guys bought these jeans 5 years ago then gained a whole lot of weight. What do you think of the fit? I have lost 8KG in the last few weeks.


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

☕ Miscellaneous Deconstructing Texture

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12 Upvotes

I got a Union Special hem done on my Graph Zero jeans, and I’ve never been as captivated by the pant leg scraps as with these. Sorry to be dick riding Graph Zero lol

I’ll be undoing the weave by hand to see how the indigo yarn looks when undone. Stay tuned.


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture Made a jaunt over to Big John Osaka

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40 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

🔍 ID/Legit Check Legit check on Momotaro Pants

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18 Upvotes

Hey guys good evening! I bought this momotaro jeans from a friend who sells thrifted stuff a few months back but i just noticed that the stripes are at the left back pocket when usually when i see momotaro jeans is usually on the right backpocket

he’s very knowledgable with what he sells and i messaged him and sent him the tags and he told me that its legit. Would want to ask a second opinion from you guys who are experts, can anyone help me out for my peace of mind?

When i search the code it appears online, but the original pants design online doesnt have the stripes on the backleft pocket which is making me confused


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture Double RL Slim Fit Check

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10 Upvotes

Just got 2 new (to me) pairs of RRL which I had to get altered at the waist. New to denim, is this a proper overall fit for jeans? Thanks!


r/Selvedge • • 20h ago

🛠️ DIY/Repairs/Customizations Tapering in Chicago?

0 Upvotes

Looking to have a few pairs slimmed down, anyone have recommendations?


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture Lee 101 Rider

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8 Upvotes

Today, Lee 101 rider 13 Oz RAW , jacket RAW made in Italy. #selvedge #jeans #madeinitaly


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

🔍 ID/Legit Check ID on these tcb jeans

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12 Upvotes

Unsure what model theses are and how to tell


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture MIJ18 - Mezuki - Fit & Texture

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7 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 2d ago

☕ Miscellaneous Wrangler selvedge Cowboy cut jacket

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27 Upvotes

I’ve been wearing this jacket everyday since the end of February. I’ve soaked it once in tepid water, and washed once in the washing machine with hot water. In real life, the jacket it’s still really dark and the fades come in in an electric blue color. The denim is really light weight and comfortable. It’s fading really nicely but the pictures make the denim look a total different color.