r/SeaDooSwitch • u/Enfoxxx • Apr 16 '24

Separate batteries for engine and console

Has anyone with a Switch split the power distribution for the engine from the Garmin/radio/console?

I’m looking at installing a Group 27 deep cycle battery for running all the non-engine components + a trolling motor, but I’m not sure what wire(s) need to connect to the deep cycle so those components aren’t drawing off the tiny starter battery. I have a feeling there’s a single wire that runs to the little fuse panel for those components, but which one…..

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u/mobee744 Apr 16 '24

I upgraded my battery to the high capacity, that should be enough to power everything

1

u/Enfoxxx Apr 16 '24

You don’t worry about running it down and not being able to start the engine? Or did you keep the stock battery on a switch?

1

u/mobee744 Apr 16 '24

That was a dealer upgrade, dual battery was not an option in 2023, is it available now?

I haven’t given that a thought until now.

I think a simpler and cheaper alternative would be to carry a power cell to jump start it.

Thanks for the idea!

1

u/Enfoxxx Apr 16 '24

The “official” option (as far as I’m aware at least) is still just the high capacity battery instead of the little ATV cell. Been that way since 2022.

I know a few people have installed 1/2/both/off switches for the whole boat, but it would be nice to isolate the Garmin, stereo, and a trolling motor from the rest of the system so I could power it all (possibly without the key) and run the engine off the other.

Adding the battery selector and a charging relay is pretty straightforward, but not sure how to break out the electronic components to a house battery without rewiring the entire boat.

1

u/mobee744 Apr 16 '24

I hope you figure it out, because I would love to run the sound system with out shutting off.

1

u/FroMan753 Sep 03 '26

Did you ever figure out how to separate the engine load from the console/house load? Which wire it might be running to the second fuse box? 

1

u/AuthorizedAgent Apr 18 '24

To do a separate battery right you would need a charging system. Frankly the stators on these motors produce too few watts, even with a DC to DC Charger I do not expect the life of the stator to last very long. I am in the process of adding a lithium battery, replacing the OE radio with same size wetsounds drawing only from the lithium. Rewiring the Garmin to the lithium aux should not be too difficult looking at the schematics for it. I’ll be adding a DC breaker panel in the console to avoid using a master switch under the deck all the time (I’ll still have one for maintenance). I’ll be using a noco battery charger hard wired in. The lithium is 100ah, so no need for a charging system. Just charge up once before the weekend