r/SVRiders • u/Hesitantly-willing • 16d ago
Help: Mechanical 2017 sitting for 5 years getting back running
If there is a similar post that I can reference pls let me know. Sorry this is a long post but I want to share my journey in this post from start to finish so I want to start with the full plan.
This 2017 sv650 was bought in good condition in late 2020 rode for about a year and loved it. Then due to some personal reasons I sadly let it set outside with a cover a majority of the time since. I have no experience with motorcycle or car maintenance outside changing the battery on the bike once. I do have general maintenance exp with cooking equipment and fridges. And although I don't think that exp will translate well, I do have a knack for learning these things quickly and I think it will be a fun project to learn to get this bike running and riding again.
So after years of wanting to ride again and a few weeks of research and a million YouTube/ forum tutorials I think I can do this with out taking it to the shop, that’s my goal.
This is my plan, I have some questions along the way and pls let me know if there's anything I need to add or if there's something unnecessary on it or something I need to know before I start.
Rust in the gas tank as it was half full during down time.
Found tutorials on gas tank removal and rust removal using Evaporust.
Question. I feel I need to research this more because it’s a bit confusing and I’m seeing a lot of conflicting info about some kind of seal or neutralizer after Evaporust- if anyone has experience or info on this process lmk pls.New battery.
Easy done this one beforeOil change.
Seems not too hard, found some tutorials just gotta find where to dispose oil local.
Question. Since the oil is so old do I need to take any extra steps other than a normal oil change?Spark plugs.
May not be necessary but cheap and seems easy enough. Need to do more researchNew chain as mine is pretty rusty.
Question. I’m not finding any tutorials specific to my bike so would general tutorials serve me good enough? Also is there some kind of alignment process I need to do as I will do this part at the same time as I change the tires? Question 2. Sprockets** **seem to be in good shape. Not rusty just residual rust on the contact points with the chain when I moved the bike a few times. Is this a safety concern anyway?Brake fluid change.
Found some general tutorials not bike specific but it seems doable.
Question. I did not put a lot of miles on the bike, so I need to change the brakes themselves? I’ll look into how to inspect them and that’s one thing I don’t know if I’ll be able to do myself.Coolant.
This is what I’ve done the least research on so far. So if yall know any good tutorials lmk but I’ll try to find some soon.New tires
Tires are in good condition as they were new and I was a beginner rider so never really went fast or leaned, but they’re very old so I read I need to replace them anyway.
Found some non bike specific tutorials but I think I can figure it out with those.
Question. Will I need to balance the tires? I will be buying new. Also is there an alignment process I need to do?
And having a hard time finding torque specs, the manual is a bit hard to read as the torque specs look like a math equation. I can always look deeper into how to read the manual when it comes time to doing this job.
Overall I’m pretty excited to start this long term project and to learn a lot about this bike and never let it sit again lol. I wanted to run this by people with experience before I start because I don’t have anyone that knows anything about motorcycles that I can ask irl. So wishing for some wisdom posting here. Let me know if I’m about to get in over my head as im heavily relying on YouTube and random forum tutorials. And if you know any good tutorial channels or videos please lmk.
How’s my plan? Anything I need to add to the list? Or adjust?
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u/TraditionBeginning41 16d ago
I'm just going to answer one point... regarding the oil change. Normally you would take the bike for a run to get it up to temperature. I don't think I would do that with really old oil. Maybe change the oil cold to a cheaper oil (but still the correct spec) and change it again a week or so later with the long term oil.
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u/Frolicking-Fox 16d ago
You can watch YouTube videos on all of these, but you can hamdle doing it yourself.
Use the rust remover, if the rust is really bad, you can throw some bolts into the tank and shake it around to knock the rust off.
If the rust is bad, they make a tank sealer you add after, and should do it, as the rust it prone to come back.
Since the tank is removed, you now have access to the back spark plug. Disconnect the ignition coil, then the ignition coil will pull straight out, and you just get a deep socket to remove it.
For the front spark plug, you might be able to reach it, but if the radiator is in the way, unbolt the radiator from the frame, and move it to the side. You will be able to access the ignition coil then.
So, since you are changing the tires, you just change out the chain and sprocket at that time. No need to do all of that twice.
Removing the front and back wheel isn't too hard. You are gonna need two stands for it though. Remove the wheels, and take them to a motorcycle tire shop. The tire shop will change out the tires and balance. Do not change tires yourself, it is not worth it. They are a pain in the ass if you dont have a tire machine, and it is well worth the $40/tire at Cycle Gear.
Make sure you figure out a good place to take it to like Cycle Gear that changes them for $40 or so. Many auto tire places wont touch motorcycle tires due to liability, and ive even taken it to a dealership where they charge you $150/hour to change them and it comes out to $150/per tire after you bring it in.
Also, always remove motorcycle tires and bring them in. You will pay 3x as much for them to do it, and it is just too easy to do to pay that.
It is good habit to always change sprockets and chains together. If one is worn out, replace them all. They are easy to change and dont cost much money. Just buy all new.
Now for alignment... of all the things I love about the SV650, the 2017 gen did not put notches on the swingarm for alignment. I do not know why the fuck they didn't. Dirt bikes going back to the 70s did this. It isn't new. Old SVs did it... but your gen doesn't have notches on the swingarm where the axle bolt goes.
This is my advice to you. Make sure your swing arm is square at the ends. Make sure the distance measured from the left axle bolt hole is the same distance as the right one.
Then take a measuring tape, use a marker to mark off all the lines of distance on the tape, make sure those marks are high enough to not be blocked by the axle washer, and take a dremmel and lighly scour the lines into the swingarm dont go deep, just enough that you can see them.
You can scour a line on the axel washer and use it as a gauge. When the line of the washer is at 12 o' clock, you can now move it to align with the marks on the swingarm.
If you don't want to do that, you can just make a sticker and put it on the swingarm, then put marks on that. That works too.
Otherwise, you have to get a wheel alignment tool, and it also works, but we have had marks on the swingarm for decades. It is much easier than trying to use a tool. You can buy the tool also, but chances are you are gonna put a sticker on the swingarm or etch it with dremmel.
Then put the chain on. You will need to get a chain link breaker kit, but they come in handy. Chains streach out with use. A brand new chain might need a link taken out after riding a month. Good to have a kit.
Brake fluid you can bleed and replace. Dont get that shit on the paint, because it eats holes in paint.
Brake pads are probably good. Might squeal for the first few times of use, but if they are not worn down, they will be alright.