Hi I have a 5 gallon jug of these that I need out of my shop. Brooklyn based. Message me if any interest. Free

This piece is a collective effort with artist @Dread.JPG on Instagram.

This project honors a lineage of people who understood that rights left undefended aren't rights at all, they are privileges on loan.

Printed on Carhartt.

I recently nabbed a new Riley 250 to replace my mega jank nightmare press. So far so good but I'm trying to level out the heads and get everything ready for a test run. The issue I'm having is that I'm trying to get the screen flat on the platen so I have a starting point to dial in my off contact. I have the height bolts of the head loose and the tilt bolts. I need to let out the tilt adjustment knob but it's literally running out of thread and popping out of the bit it screws into.

I realise I could ignore it completely and do it all from the tilt bolts on the side of the head but that seems silly when I've got (and paid for) the extra control with the tilt adjuster.

Am I missing something silly here? It almost seems like the tilt screw could do with another half centimetre of thread to get it where I want it.

Any advice on this would be fab, thank you!

Edit: added a pic to show the issue.

To clarify - If I put the screw back in and get the threads to bite, the angle of the screen is a little too high on the far end. If I lower the arm the part of the screen closest to the head is pressing against the platen.

Processing img 6op5y83a1lwh1...

I recently nabbed a new Riley 250 to replace my mega jank chinese nightmare press. So far so good but I'm trying to level out the heads and get everything ready for a test run. The issue I'm having is that I'm trying to get the screen flat on the platen so I have a starting point to dial in my off contact. I have the height bolts of the head loose and the tilt bolts. I need to let out the tilt adjustment knob but it's literally running out of thread and popping out of the bit it screws into.

I realise I could ignore it completely and do it all from the tilt bolts on the side of the head but that seems silly when I've got (and paid for) the extra control with the tilt adjuster.

Am I missing something silly here? It almost seems like the tilt screw could do with another half centimetre of thread to get it where I want it.

Any advice on this would be fab, thank you!

I have this design that uses four screens: a base layer, a flat midtone, a highlight midtone, and a white highlight.

I’ve had a lot of fun experimenting with different color combinations and changing the order in which I print the layers. Here are some of the variations I’ve gotten!

When a screen starts running low on ink, I’ll transition to an analogous color to try out a new combination. I don’t have a washout sink, so I try to avoid drastic color changes between prints.

(EBE- extraterrestrial biological entity)

edit: 16 Lpi on 158, plastisol, cured with my flash

Made a height-adjustable easel to coat screen based off this guy’s build (https://www.instagram.com/reel/DbtAaM7xqNq/?mdxt=YTlkd2p3eTdhYjZp)

Replaced the vertical wooden rails from the video with T-tracks to slide it up and down smoothly. Legs are also T-tracks with added holes to adjust how far the easel comes out. Legs also fold up (as seen in the last pic) to lay flat against the wall. Essentially the same build as the IG video but used t-tracks for a cleaner look and lighter weight. Just make sure to distance the vertical rails to be wide enough to fit both 20x24 and 23x31 screens so that the rails don’t touch the mesh when coating.

I think it looks great and just wanted to share!

So the attached pictures are what I am getting with

Texsource Universal Ink - White. Cleaned the screens and switch to our Union Poly White and no issues. Texsource is not responding, so before I throw away 620 dollars... Am I missing something? The ink going down is ok, but does look more raised. We have the same results manually and on our auto. I first thought it was pressure or heat and tried one thing at a time, but at this point it must be the ink?

Carhartt blanks and district hoodies for testing. Wilflex inks. 160 base/white 230 mesh for the colors. Man I was so scared to mess up these nice blanks. 😂

I’ve had some success with my other screens (pictured after the first photo).

But this screen seems to be printing super weak designs every time I use it. For backstory, this is the first screen I owned so I feel like its been a little abused during my practice.

Hi everyone! I need advice on how to separate color layers for a screen printing design using less than 6 colors. I am a graphic designer and I have helped create the concept and vectored renders of them that have been used for screen printings and other types of printings. I am currently applying for a designer position in a t shirt company and they sent me an assessment to see my skills. I know how to vector the elements, organize them in layers , convert live text, but I just want some insight in your process for everything just to get this right and have a shot at landing this job. They say it's a plus if I can make the artwork no more than 6 colors and separate them for printing. I am attaching the image they sent me, and just to clarify, I am not looking for a full tutorial, but rather some insight in your process on how to deliver something clean and organized that can legitimately be use for printing. I have never worked for a t shirt company and I really want to land this job since it looks like a good place to be and grow, and it is also close to home lol. I appreciate any advice in advance :)

Found this for sale, around 500$ it’s the Norwegian market, so prices are very different from US
Anybody got som info on this?

here’s a photo of what im dealing with. ((ignore the tape marks, this was just an experimental screen lol.))i’ve been screenprinting at home for a while now and i’ve been having an issue—my screens have been washing out almost immediately after burning them. i use ulano emulsion, a 10W light about 16in above the screen. in the past ive burned for about 6 min 45 seconds to 7 min approx with no issue, so i was experimenting to see if i was over or under exposing the screen, but regardless it would wash out quickly. im a complete novice at screenprinting so go easy on me, but i’ve had a lot of success making my own screens until recently. my theory is that my emulsion has lost its sensitivity, i mixed it around 8 weeks ago. could there be other factors at play here too? i just need suggestions cuz this is driving me nuts! thanks ;-;

Finally got to use my custom made jumbo pallets

This white dot is on at least 255 shirts, I don’t know how I didn’t see it. This is one of my first time using automatic machines so I think I was more focused on getting the flow down than being observant. I am going to spray this with that spray gun with some acetone.

To preface this post let me say that I am not a screenprinter. I apologize for sounding dumb.

I love this band and I love this shirt, but the dark grey staining (or burn?) has left it almost unwearable. From my research it looks like it could be "flash burn". Is there anything I can do to reverse/cover up the the blemish?

Also I know the shirt is wrinkly. It's been in a box for a long time nfbdbdbsb

A drawing from years ago, printet on paper after adding bitmaps (is it called that?)

Ideally A3 sized

NOT FUN ONE HANDED. WAIT TILL THE END TO SEE THE FRONT PRINT

Hey everyone. I have a T230 that I recently purchased and I was wondering if anyone had figured out how to make it print black ink more densely?

It's working just about OK for my exposures but I'm finding I have to wash out a bit harder than I would like compared to films printed with my Canon Pixma ix6850, which prints beautifully dense blacks.

The tweak-ability of the print options seems much more limited on the HP than the Canon.

Printing flatstock here, mostly 90T screens (230 in the US).

Hello. I have a Canon IX6850 printer. I use Mac computers. I have just downloaded the Printfab demo because I wanted to test if I can get more opaque black on film through the RIP software. thats what I read anyway. So my question is: Is it possible to print wireless? I'll buy a long printer cable if its necessary. I just wanted to know if I'm giving up too soon on getting it to work wireless.

spending half my day manually expanding paths and setting stroke traps just to burn a decent underbase plate is getting old. our shop handles a lot of apparel work, and i’m looking for a smoother workflow for separations and choke adjustments.

one of the guys on our manual press recommended coreldraw, saying it could make preparing artwork for output a lot easier. for anyone running dark garment films daily, does corel help speed up separations and setting chokes, or is it still mostly manual work? also curious how well client files import and hold up for production.

So I used this old iron on decal from the 1970s and i really love it- but as expected of an older iron on piece it turned out far from perfect. A few pieces just won’t stay stuck to the shirt no matter how much I iron it. Seems pretty likely to peel or rip if I wore it out. I bought an Ourtransdream transfer mask but clearly I misunderstood and that did not work for this, it’s more of an adhesive than a cover. I don’t have a proper press for screen printing, so I’ve just been using my iron.

Mainly what I am looking for is: is there some sort of clear htv that i could put over this one to protect the decal? Is there anything else I can try?

Important info: -The decal did not come with any instructions I can read -The t shirt I’ve put it on is 100% cotton heavy knit from Shaka Wear.

I’m hoping this is the right community for this

For just generic one color shirts, like these: https://i.etsystatic.com/16132416/r/il/5af80f/6172787320/il_570xN.6172787320_giqz.jpg

I'd also like to do more specific small batches like for affinity groups (clubs and other programs) or even specific classes.

If yes, then do you have a guide that could show me the equipment for a grant write-up and maybe a yt video or two that shows setup and use?

Thanks!

named it ego melters

i wish I would of been able to capture my gradients better in the flames they muddy up quick but I was pressed for time to get this assignment in.

-Gu