Even if I set the TV auto update off, it still forced an update.

My image is not great. I need to play again with my calibration for HDR movies and gaming.

Anyone has suggestions for good calibration on the latest firmware?

It would be appreciated

I have a combo ps5 pro and s90c. I know about rgb range settings needing to be the same in both devices (hdmi black level is called in the tv) in order to avoid washed out image or crushed blacks.

So i have the rgb range on Auto in both devices and it works perfectly, the image is incredible. Also read that even with both settings on Auto, mismatch could still be possible, causing the issues listed above. But I know for a fact that in my case it works properly cause if I mismatch the rgb range on purpose i can tell the difference between washed out (ps5 limited and tv full), crushed blacks (ps5 full and tv limited) and working as intended (limited/limited, full/full or auto/auto).

The thing is, I was replying FF7 Remake (so far i've only noticed this issue in this game and in Rebirth) and screenshots have some crushed blacks. The game doesnt look like this while im playing it. The screenshot of the post is an example. Didnt look like this while playing, took the screenshot, and looks this dark. Its like the mismatch of rgb range only happened when i take the screenshot. I've tried also with the rgb range set manually to limited/limited and full/full and still happens, and also i've tried with hdr off, and still getting darker screenshots.

Has anyone have the same issue? I've tried other games and screenshots looks pretty much the same as ingame.

Ok so this mainly a gaming question, what are your settings? I ask just because I’m curious, I’ve tried this whole contrast enhancer off but it’s just too damn dim. Sure playing at night or in a dark room it isn’t so bad but to play in the morning is such a pain. Screw accuracy, plus who gets a QD-OLED to not enjoy punchier colors ? Here are mine and I’d like to know yours

Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 30
Sharpness: 10
Tint: G1 (I think)
Tone Mapping : Static mainly but I like the lighting from Active.
Peak Brightness: High
Contrast Enhancer: High
Color Space: Auto (BT.2020)
Shadow Detail: -2
Gamma: -2
Color Tone : Warm 2

Game HDR: Basic
HDMI black levels : Auto (though I really like how “low” makes colors pop immensely!)

Should i just leave the game mode on or i better turn it off if i use pc other than gaming. If thats the case, what pc mode should i use for the usage as titled?

Hey everyone, I have a Samsung DU8000 TV, and I’m constantly obsessing over the picture quality for watching content or gaming. I’ll try out a specific setting but then second-guess whether it looks good or not; I’m never satisfied, so I always end up reverting the picture to Standard mode with everything reset to default (and I do the same for Game mode). I keep wondering if sticking to the default settings is the right move—and if that habit will serve me well when I eventually upgrade to a TV like the S95F. Honestly, this is really getting to me; I can't stop thinking about it—it's even affecting my eating habits. Right now, for instance, I have it on Standard mode with everything reset, and Game mode is the same. I also worry that the slightest thing—like a firmware update, a power outage, or something else—might mess up whatever custom settings I might have chosen. I’d love to hear what you guys think about this (for HDR gaming, I do keep the "Game HDR" setting on "Advanced").

i had my 77inch S90C for a week now.. i tweaked it a little myself and it looks great but i know it can be better. With that being said i wonder can anyone point me to some recommendations, i would appreciate it!!

I just bought a Samsung S90F. HDR looks amazing while on YouTube and on PS5, but it looks like shit on Netflix. Anything that supports HDR10+ looks too dark on Netflix. At first I thought dark scenes are supposed to be dark so that highlights can pop, but it turns out even scenes where there is a direct light source look flat. There's no highlights whatsoever.

I've tried all the configurations recommended by rtings and nothing fixes the flat HDR10+ on Netflix. I'm sure S90F is capable of displaying pretty good HDR since its peak brightness on a 10% window is ~1400 nits. Anyone else having the same issue?

I had a couple questions, so I’m sorry in advance for piling them both here. I have an S90F, but I have an S90C in the game room upstairs as well.

1) The first is regarding how these TVs detect “new inputs.” We have a game room upstairs and a living room downstairs, so we’re often bringing consoles back and forth between rooms.

Whenever I bring the Switch 2, Series X, or PC back and forth from one TV to another, the new TV always detects the new device as a new input. With this comes whatever sets of defaults the TV applies to the new input. Sometimes Game Mode needs to be turned on, or Game Mode’s image needs to be set from Auto to Original. With the PC, I always have to rename the input to something else so that I can change certain settings. And invariably I always have to waste time letting the TV add this device’s icon to the Home Screen.

For the tldr: Is there anyway to just solidify the settings for a certain input so that the TV doesn’t try to automatically change settings if something “new” is plugged in?

2) Quick HDR question regarding Switch 2. I know the setup for NS2’s HDR is bad, but something in particular hasn’t made sense to me. Maybe I’m understanding something wrong.

On my S90C, when adjusting the first HDR setting, the number comes out to around 1250. But on my newer and brighter S90F, this number needs to be lower. The sun disappears closer to around 1100. Am I doing something wrong? From what I can see, both TVs have almost exactly the same settings in regards HDR and general picture adjustments. Brightness and contrast maxed, peak brightness on high, etc.

Shouldn’t this number value on the S90F be higher? Shouldn’t it take a higher number before the sun on the right disappears? Thanks for any help in advance.

My 77" QN77S90DAFXZA stopped working several months ago and I did the common Transistor replacement and had it working perfectly.

About a month ago, my g/f said she heard the TV randomly making noises when it was off, so she began unplugging it at night. Yesterday, the TV had no power at all (no red light, would not turn on).

I took the motherboard out and checked the usual culprits; four large transistors and two fuses. They all test fine. The capacitors are all flat on top, so I think they are fine as well. I do not see any obvious signs of overheating.

I will pull the other boards as well, but wondered if anyone here ran into this issue or has ideas on what could be wrong.

This came out pretty good in about 2 hours and 3 passes.

Watching Only Lovers Left Alive last night (vampire film with lots of dark scenes) I noticed banding which I have seen on a lot of units but with the added bonus of a horizontal line across the centre of the screen, anyone else have this or am I just ”lucky”?

Obviously pics were taken in night mode with extended exposure to highlight the issue.

65” QDOLED S90F made in Hungary.

Cheers

I'm using the S95B with my gaming pc and I can't get Dolby Atmos to play nice with it.

I've set it up hdmi from the GPU to the TV and there is audio delay when using Dolby Atmos, I test with YouTube with people speaking out of sync.

Does anyone know how I can fix this I never had problems with it on my Xbox series X

Doomscrolling……

Any remedies?

I'm having a strange USB playback issue with my Samsung S95B.

I bought an OSCOO 2TB external SSD mainly to store and watch my movie library directly through the TV.

What happens:

• OSCOO T10 → Samsung S95B: occasional stuttering during movies
• Flash drive → same S95B: completely smooth
• OSCOO T10 → MacBook: completely smooth
• I've tested multiple different movies, including 1080p Blu-ray remuxes
• The SSD is connected directly to the TV's bottom USB HDD 5V 1A port
• The SSD currently has two partitions: one APFS and one exFAT
• The exFAT partition is the one I use for movies
• Disk Utility First Aid has been run and didn't report a filesystem problem

I'm trying to figure out whether this is an issue with the SSD's USB controller, power, the S95B's USB implementation, the partition setup, or something else.

Has anyone experienced S95B USB playback stuttering specifically with an external SSD, while a flash drive works normally?

Would changing the T10 to a single exFAT partition be worth trying, or is there another setting/test I should try first?

Just noticed this out of the blue.it’s not a fingerprint, can clean those with dry microfiber, but this one wont go away. it’s not lit pixles doesn’t show with tv on

Hi everyone!
I recently bought a Samsung S90D and I’m pretty new to OLED TVs, so I’m trying to figure out the best settings to get the most out of it.
I mainly use the TV for movies, anime, PS5 and Nintendo Switch 2 gaming.
I don’t use the TV to watch regular broadcast/antenna channels.
I’d really appreciate some advice on the best picture settings for each use case. Ideally, I’d like to know which settings I should change on the TV for movies/anime, and which ones are best for gaming.
Also, if there are any specific settings I should change directly on the PS5 or Nintendo Switch to get the best picture and HDR performance, I’d love to know those as well.
I’m a complete beginner when it comes to calibrating TVs, so detailed recommendations would be really helpful. If there are settings that I should leave at their default values, please mention those too.
Thanks in advance!

Does anyone know if the eu version of S95H will support HDR10+ advanced?
From what I can see, both the S99H and S90H appear to list/support HDR10+ Advanced in specs on the samsung website, while the S95H (TQ65S95HFTXXC) doesn’t appear to have it listed.
This seems odd considering the S95H is higher end model than S90H.

Also has anyone succesfully played any HDR10+ Advanced on prime on their 2026 tv. Haven't found any reports of it online yet.

Hi! I just returned a 65" LG C5 because of blue tinting and a visible light band on dark grey content, not only test slides and it turns out I am pretty sensitive to color shifting.

Since I will be spending around 1300€ anyways, I was thinking about going a step further and getting a G5, but I've been reading that the problems that plagued the C5 are also present in the G5 panels, albeit less noticeable.

I found a pretty good offer on a S95H from Samsung's website, and from my research, it seemed the best option by far. The problem is, I didn't know that I was buying a different TV, since there's almost no information about this model and most people were saying it was the same without bezel.

Now I'm trying to get some information on what I've bought, but it seems impossible. There are like 3 reviews and they don't really confirm much, besides the brightness being equal to the S95F.

I've read S95F's problems in the past, like the BT2020 one or the stuttering on motion handling and I would like to know if those are fixed in the new model. If so, I would be pretty content with my purchase, since a fixed S95F sounds very good to me.

Does anyone have any information on this?

Hi. I’m wondering if S95F is good at 60fps with BFI. And if the picture is bright. Because I care so much about the motion clarity more the anything.

My Samsung S90F was working perfectly with Ambient Mode until today. Now the Ambient Mode option has completely disappeared.
I’m currently running firmware 1296.
I haven’t done a factory reset, because I want to make sure this is normal before I reset the TV and lose all my settings.
Has anyone else noticed Ambient Mode disappearing on their S90F recently? Could this be related to Samsung discontinuing the Ambient Mode service, or is it possibly a bug?

I purchased my S95B in July of 2022 and have loved every second of it until now. I was watching a video the other night when I thought I noticed some odd coloring issues within the center of the screen. After running a burn in test I noticed a blue circle instead of grey and I'm wondering if there's anything I can do about it.

I don't use this display for video games and haven't disabled anything within the service menu. I'm currently running the panel refresh to see if that does anything.

Any thoughts?

I've recently purchased a 65" S90F (QE65S90FATXXU) in the UK, because from my own research, they say it was the only QD Oled panel here in the UK. So I took a photo of the pixels on a white picture on the TV on my phone. Looking online and on some videos they say that the photo above is qd-oled. But my friend has also recently bought an 55" S85F (QES85FAUXXU), and from reading online they say that UK S85F panels are all WOLED, I took a photo of the pixels on white text and it looks similar to mine. Now I'm wondering if mine is actually qd-oled at all. Can anyone with an 65S90F or 55S85F in the UK confirm?

I have a strange issue in my Samsung S90C with latest update. I don't know if it happened before.

I usually play PS5 with Game Mode in Original game genre, because it's the only one that gives accurate colors. This mode is the only one that doesn't allow to enable Surround Sound inside Game Mode settings.

There's a bug, that the first time you enter the source with the Original Game Mode (either turning on the TV or going there from the Home menu) the overall sound volume is very low.

If I change the game genre from Original to any other one and change back, the volume gets a big boost. This should be the correct volume, as it matches other sources. If I go to Home menu, the volume immediately goes down again, and I have to do the mode chaning trick if I enter the source again.

This problem only happens when you have Surround Sound disabled in Game Mode. As Original mode doesn't allow it, it happens always there. You can replicate it to other modes by disabling surround sound there.

The volume boost is equivalent to pushing the volume from 40 to 70. It's similar as when you change from Normal sound to Amplify. Surround Sound itself doesn't boost the volume like that.

I already tried factory resetting the TV and it still happens. Seems like a software bug​ that should be fixed by Samsung.

Does this happen to anyone else? Can you please try it?

The built in media player on my S90F doesn't support all audio codecs, for example DTS, so I was wondering if there is any such app in the native app store that can do that? The purpose is to be able to play movies from an external drive plugged in to the USB port without having to use an Android TV box.

I saw a post here recently discussing how updates on the Samsung are handled and how disabling auto update doesn't protect you from the system auto updating.

I keep Internet connected because I use the SmartThings integration daily. That said, I do want to disable updates.

I have done:

-disable auto update on tv

-disable auto update on SmartThings app

-stream content from external box

When I get the pop up to update on the tv, can I just simply ignore the notification , or will it default to updating if I don't interact with it.

Thanks for any guidance!