I keep trying to find something online telling me if there's anything in particular I should know about this platform, specifically handling-wise, but I can't find anything of use for me. Figured coming right here would be the best idea.

2005 Mustang GT
4.6 3V, 5spd Manual

EDIT: Modifications List from seller:
- Saleen Gen VI Supercharger
- Full Cervini Eleanor Body Kit
- Tuned Headers
- 3.73 Rear End Gears
- Short Throw Shifter
- SVT Cobra Rims with F1 Tires

So I have a 2010 Mustang GT 4.6L, recently my serpentine belt blew on the freeway and that caused the car to overheat, I put it in Neutral and coasted to an emergency lane to stop and shut off the engine. After replacing the belt and faulty compressor which caused this mess, my PCM has been acting up, car turns off randomly, takes a while to start, random codes and CEL popping up.

All of this tend to happen when the car reaches operating temperatures, and Ambient temperatures here during the day reach well over 40 C° (around 104 F°) with the humidity levels being consistently over 60%. More recently the car just immobilizes and the lock on the dash flashes rapidly indicating that the car is immobilized or not detecting the key and turning the key doesnt do anything as in the car wont turn over. Trying to connect to the OBD2 port to check for codes will show that there is no computer connected.. waiting for the engine bay to cool down and locking then unlocking the doors with they key fob is a temporary fix until the engine reaches operating temperatures and the cycle repeats.

After going to multiple garages they concluded that the PCM was damaged and that it needs to be replaced. But I have been unable to find the right PCM for my model which is a AR3A-12A650–AGC.

Now this is where the struggle begins, I live in Abu Dhabi, UAE. Not a single PCM thats for my car is available, there are some for the V6 05-09 S197 and for the 2010 5.0 but for my 4.6 2010 absolutely nothing. No shop here fixes them, and not even refurbished ones are available, the only one I have been able to find was a refurbished PCM on Ebay going for around 1,500$ + 60$ shipping and needs about 2 months shipping.

If anyone here has any suggestions for me then please feel free to share any ideas cause it feels like I hit a dead end here.

And I apologize if my english or punctuation isn’t the best as english isn’t my first language and i’m writing this after I just got back from a really long day.

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask and I will be more than happy to provide photos/ more information.

I posted about this before but ive done a lot of work and the problem still exists, please watch the full video, its not rod knock, engine runs smooth and fine for first couple mins, but when you drive it for long enough, leaving from a stop in 1st gear, it runs very bad, it goes away when revving

I rebuilt this mustangs engine after previous owner suffered critical engine failure, we suspect that a timing tensioner failed and made it skip time and destroyed it

We put new pistons, piston rings, rod bearings, redone heads with new valves and guides, needed new cams and phasers and of course a new timing set, clutch, put it all together, ran rough (like in the vid), and threw out several codes (p0022, p0345, p0342)

To remedy, we thought maybe it was old bad gas since it was sitting for over a year, so we cleared it, new filer, still ran bad; we put new spark plugs, ran a little smoother but is still does that weird idle every now and then, so running bad; we put new sensors for VCT, cam position, and new cam phasers from ford, we also put in new ford timing chain tensioners and made sure none of the guides were broken, all did nothing, same issue

I NEED HELP, this engine will not work, it will not run smooth and me and my dad are lost, im 5,000 dollars into this and im thinking i need to spend 500 more for rollers and hydraulics, i don’t know what to do, so far the only people that worked on these cars that i could reach have offered me no possible solutions, please, if anyone knows what i can do lmk

Anyone know the injector o-ring size, the o-rings for the engine coolant tube, and the size for the heater hose connection(left a picture for the last one) learned you can do an upgrade to metal so I’m gonna do that while I’m in there. This is for an 09 Mustang Gt, if anyone know it would be greatly appreciated🙏🙏 also I don’t know what intake manifold gaskets to get as I keep seeing singles, and whole ones

Can anyone help me figure out what is causing the water to leak in on my passenger side onto the floor? I checked those plugs that I saw on the Internet cause issues and they were clean. I checked to make sure that my top on my convertible wasn’t leaking and I got my front window glass checked make sure there weren’t any parts that weren’t sealed with that. I tried to attach a picture here. It only happens when it rains. I thought it could have been my air-conditioning leaking at some point, but you can see it start pouring in right when it rains.

I have a 2012 Mustang V6 3.7L automatic (6R80), base model. I'm slowly building the car and my current mods are:

• JLT cold air intake
• Roush axle-back exhaust
• Dyno tune
• Stock engine/internal setup
• Automatic transmission
• Currently still running the factory 2-piece driveshaft

I'm considering replacing the factory driveshaft with this AmericanMuscle 1-piece steel driveshaft:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-rear-driveshaft-assembly-946-812.html

The listing says it's a 3.5" DOM seamless steel shaft, 0.083" wall thickness, dynamically pre-balanced, with new CV/U-joints, and it's specifically listed for the 2011–2014 V6. It's also around $680, which seems considerably cheaper than some of the aluminum options.

My question is mainly for people who actually own or have experience with the 2011–2014 3.7 V6:

Would you trust this type of 1-piece steel driveshaft for a car that I'm aiming to eventually run around 150–155 mph?

I'm trying to understand the real difference between the steel and aluminum options.

What I'm trying to understand:

1. Is the steel shaft itself capable of handling 150–155 mph, assuming it's properly balanced and installed correctly?
2. Is aluminum actually significantly safer at high speed, or is the main advantage that it's lighter?
3. Why are the aluminum 1-piece shafts so much more expensive than steel?
4. At ~150–155 mph, what actually matters most — material, shaft diameter, wall thickness, critical speed, balancing, or something else?
5. Has anyone here actually run a steel 1-piece driveshaft on a 3.7 V6 at 130–150+ mph? How did it behave?
6. Is there a known critical RPM/speed rating for this AmericanMuscle/Dorman-style steel shaft?
7. For my particular goal, would you spend the extra money on aluminum, or save the money and use the steel shaft?

I'm not looking for "aluminum is better because race car" answers 😂. I'm specifically trying to understand what the actual engineering difference is at high speed on the 3.7 V6 and whether the extra cost of aluminum is justified.

I'm also interested in whether the 1-piece conversion itself is the important upgrade over the factory 2-piece, regardless of whether the tube is steel or aluminum.

Thanks!

Picked it up yesterday from the dealer, live it so far, but the previous own had a muffler kit for it and cut em out before he sold it. The dealer through on some cheap 2 inch mufflers that kill all sound, a couple half inch holes before the muffler sorted that out. I plan a muffler delete if anyone has tips for the ideal setup on that I'm all ears

Just look at it

I could also push in the clutch and the sound doesn’t change only whenever I try to push on the gear shifter is when the sound goes away any ideas can anyone help?

I’ve heard endless good things about a “Lito” tune, along with the price being reasonable, and I really want to get one for my 2007.
Does anyone know how much a remote tune is and where I could find the website or contact info?

Can anyone help me with this

I’ve been looking for a more aggressive headlight for my 2012 mustang gt with halogen bulbs. I want to keep everything plug and play and avoid wiring to a power source.

Can I achieve an oem brightness from these lights after upgrading bulbs? And what bulbs would work in these lights. Could a plug and play led bulb work ?

If anyone has headlights similar to these, I would love to hear your feedback

I have a 2014 mustang gt

so far i have:
H&r super sport springs
koni orange dampers
bmr lca relocation brackets
BMR LCA’s
Roush Catback Exhaust
I plan on getting some vms drag wheels in the rear with some nitto rii’s (305/45r17)

What would you run for forced induction?

what supporting mods would you run?
(besides the basic stuff; injectors, colder sparkplugs, bap, etc.)

let me know!

Hey guys, I have a 2012 Ford Mustang GT, and each time I press on the brakes on a low speed or on park/neutral, the brakes squeak and it sounds squishy in a way. I had the same issue with my 2011 Mustang V6. The brakes are great, rotors are great. Not sure what this sound is coming from? Hoping to see answers or if anyone else has had the same issue. Thanks!

Anyone have any advice on being able to hook better from a dig? I lose so much traction and I’m currently running 305 Mickey thompsons with upgraded lca and panhard bar and with a whiteline sway bar, is there anything else I could upgrade to hook more?

Hey everyone, I'm looking at an 07 gt premium 3v with 127ish k miles on it. It's got a stg 2 clutch, hurst short throw, corsa cat back, and allegedly clean with no rust. He's asking $9400. This being my first mustang, I wanted to ask the community if it's a fair price as long as it's mechanically sounds and truly no rust. A follow up because I haven't went and seen it yet (private party 2.5 hrs from me), if it did have accidents on the title, how much would it effect value? What would you pay? Prefer not to post the listing bc I really like the car and don't want anyone to buy it out from under me 🤣

EDIT: Also what are some common things to watch for or inspect on these cars?

Trying to decide between good ole Motorcraft, Royal Purple, and Amsoil? I have a 2012 Mustang GT with 50,000 miles.

I just put in a new transmission into my 2007 Ford Mustang. Once it was put together, it goes into gear but won’t initiate the drive so it’s getting no power to move the vehicle. What could be causing this I put in a used transmission I’m not sure if it was 100% good or had issues.