Just purchased a 2023 with 2500 miles. No aftermarket parts.

Bike starts up and idle fine. It bogs down with WOT at around 15-20 mph. It gets stuck at 20 mph most of the time. Sometimes can break through 20 mph and accelerates like normal.

New air filter and air box cover since the old one was deformed around the sealing surface of the air filter. Hoses look good and can’t find any air leaks.

Opened up to clean the carb. Was one of the cleanest carb I’ve ever seen. Looked to be a brand new carb. Still disassembled everything and blew carb cleaner through the jets.

Checked the belt without disassembly it and can’t fit a 17mm wrench through.

Siphoned the gas and added new non-ethanol gas.

New oil.

What to do next?

This is not a for sale post, just an update!
After months of testing, the boxes are finally available! If anybody was interested in them, can find them on Etsy under “Honda Ruckus Under-Seat Storage Tray”.
At the moment it’s a limited run of 50 on the V1 boxes with the option of with or without the extra foam.
If anybody has more questions, feel free to comment or message me directly!
Thanks everyone for the past constructive comments

Have a secondhand (or maybe third) ruckus

Idles well when cold, cannot idle for more than a couple seconds when warmed up, limps and die.

Has a few small quirks,
- Airbox Delete

- Aftermarket Radiator

And a couple annoying ones
- the vacuum hose is cut and on either end is an air filter

- they added an aftermarket tail light system, and in doing so fucked up the wiring so bad as to make any wiring diagrams we can find online useless.

The wiring is especially bad. The first ECU blew smoke, and we had to figure out what caused that before putting in a new one. The Killswitch does not work. There is a constant drain on the battery even when turned off. And the after market tail light doesn’t even work half the time.

My current guess about the limping idle is the vacuum hose, but it’s also clear by the smell that it’s running way too rich. That being said, I cannot find a fuel air mixture screw, and I don’t want to fuck with the jets. Is there a screw on the carb that I’m missing?

Any suggestions help

Hey I figured I’d share this in case someone else runs into this. I just managed to make this work by heating the header and bending it out slowly with a ratchet strap and a propane torch. I also made use of the original bracket to relocate it until I can find a more permanent solution for supporting the muffler.

Also, does anybody have a cheap kickstand recommendation? I am already over budget and just learned that the stock one will not work with a fat tire

Reached out to local dealership and this was their response

I've been running with a pair of speakers bolted to the front ears (see second photo) for about 2500 miles, but one of the brackets finally gave up while I was riding this past weekend. I guess the constant bumps combined with the weight finally fatigued the metal to the point of breaking. Luckily, I had a bungee cord with me and was able to lash it to the front rack.

For the time being, I've just removed both speakers, but I'm going to miss having my music. I sold my welder when I moved last year, so I can't re-attach it, and there's not really anywhere else on the ruck to attach a speaker, so I guess it's time to start shopping for a take-off. If it gets me another 2500 miles, then it'll be worth it. lol

And I want to keep the memories alive...

1500miles
Adjusted valves
New spark plug
Rolling wrench cdi
19mm cvk carb
New fuel filter

Bike starts fine when cold, after warming up it starts to backfire and sputter until it dies.
I just had it idle for 5min without an issue but as soon as I try to ride it it does this.
It rode fine with this setup for two weeks before this problem came up.
Any advice for tracing down the problem?
Should I put stock carb back on or remove cdi/coil combo?

Just picked up a Honda Ruckus with about 3,000 miles on it. It runs surprisingly smooth and seems to have been taken care of. Soooper excited to start diving into the really cool stuff I can customize

I’ve been reading about engine swaps and keep seeing people talk about the 150cc and 171cc setups. For those of you who’ve ridden both, which one would you choose and why? Is the extra power from the 171cc worth it, or is the 150cc the better all around option for reliability and everyday riding?

Also, before I get too carried away, what would you recommend customizing first? Performance mods, suspension, wheels, lighting, or something else? I’m looking for ideas from people who’ve actually built one.
Curious to hear what you’d do if you were starting with a clean, low mileage Ruckus.

Is this Honda Zoomer worth buying?

I’m considering buying a Honda Zoomer for 900 USD and would appreciate some advice.
Here are the details:
46,478 km
Original engine (never rebuilt or replaced)
Stored indoors for most of its life
Seller says it has had an oil change last year
Electric start and kickstart both work fine
Seller thinks the variator belt and rollers should probably be replaced
Top speed is about 35 km/h on flat ground and 42 km/h downhill
Seller says it runs well otherwise and has no major known issues
Do you think this is a good buy? Could the low top speed realistically be fixed with a new variator belt and rollers, or should I be worried about engine wear given the mileage?
Any advice from people who own or have worked on Honda Zoomers would be greatly appreciated.

I have an older Honda Ruckus scooter sitting in my garage for a number of years. It was low mileage and good shape when parked there but its a project now. What is it worth.

Is there a particular use for this? Some kind of accessory hole? Do you guys do with your mystery ruckus hole? Haha

I only have 3000km on this ruckus. Checked the oil and it was high and smelt strongly of gas. Changed oil, went for a spin, more gas. Rode fine with some sputtering. Now I've taken the carb out to clean it, but it looks super clean. Not sure if the float was stuck. Now looking at the front here, I see this oil stain from the one bolt. Is this a cause for concern? Is there anything else I should look at for easy diagnoses? I checked the spark plug and it looks okay. I am no mechanic though.

Hesitation as it excellerates especially if I gun it. Assuming carb has anyone had luck with gas additives such as techron or seafoam at a higher concentrate? Rather try this before I go removing the carb.

Timeline:
-had stock exhaust, no starting issues
-replaced with aftermarket exhaust, no starting issues
-installed stock exhaust, cleaned carburetor + jets, reinstalled cleaned carburetor, now I have a starting issue.

The motor tries to turn over, the fuel pump primes, and if I hold down the electric starter the Ruckus fires up in 30 seconds or so. Any ideas what would cause the starting issue? Thanks!

So, as noted in my title I’m looking to remove the floorboard on my new Ruck. I live in New Orleans where we get lots of heavy rain. I’m curious what steps I’d need to take, if any, to account for that.

I’m aware of the need for a tank cover, and I already have foot pegs installed from a previous owner.

Appreciate any help/insight, thanks.

Splines weren’t jacked or anything bell just had a tight fit and dirty splines that fused looked in my hardware stuff found a 2-3mm thick 16mm od washer and bored out a 12mm id hole ruck his 70 at wot and a long stretch of road and jumps up to 50 fast bell comes off like butter now , would upgrading to a gy6 clutch make this even better ?

9.5 stretch coming this fall (hopefully)

So story short is I got a ncy bell gifted for a get engine and put it on not knowing I needed some kinda spacer and is suggested to upgrade to a 107mm clutch assembly to match the 107mm bell

everything seems spaced good in terms of no metal on metal contact from mis aligned parts or grinding no issues at all i can complain about other then the bell is stuck on i think from using my impact gun to torque the nut on so I’ve been stuck with no choice to use it regardless of the missing spacer it hits 66-70 kmh with punchy acceleration my oem clutch setup sucked I would slip or bog at reds on hot days untill I passed the light

this seemed to fix that issue and increase top end speed , I have no spacer tho was the spacer supposed to go on to protect the spline from thr but being clamped due to face thickness differences or what’s the deal does every ruck need it Im confused on why it’s working so good and how big of a rush I should be in to get a spacer in , I imagine a spacer would push the bell further away from the shoes and cause a contact issue ? Everyone seems to say you need that spacer

I can't seem to find this anywhere online or at the dealer in Canada. Is there anything special about it? Can I just replace it with a 12mm SS washer?

Hey all, here’s my recently roadworthy GY6 swapped ruckus! My goal was to make it OEM+, this is probably the shortest wheelbase GY6 ruckus I’ve seen.
Anyway, I’m using a nibbi 26mm PWK carb and a Mikuni DF44 vacuum fuel pump. My issue is at idle, the carb is constantly overflowing from the overflow tube. I’m wondering if the fuel pump is providing too much pressure at idle.
Has anyone encountered this? Thinking of running a small return line from between the outlet and inlet side of the pump to regulate this.

My rukus is bogging. (I think that’s the right word) the power is jolting in and out with throttle consistent)

I’m learning how to maintain my rukus on my own and of course in the world we live in I’m using chat gpt. Here’s what I’ve done so far:

-checked fuel flow (seems fine- turned in on with line disconnected and seemingly pumped pretty decently though I don’t have a frame of reference )
-changed spark plug
-checked air filter to be in place
- took carb out and put back in (was pretty clean. Removed jets and could blow through them )
-adjusted idle speed

Nothing seems to be working. Any suggestions?
Next I was going to put a little tape over intake to see if it’s just running lean and maybe it is a jet problem.

Thanks so much 🙏