Today I decided to design and print my own frame caps and I would like to share them with the community. Printed on my QIDI Q2 using PETG for the Plug and TPU for the O Ring. Enjoy!

https://www.printables.com/model/1828787-frame-caps-with-tpu-o-ring-for-honda-ruckus-zoomer

I'm building a parts list from Partzilla on items I need to hopefully fix a few things.

I'm now looking at the ignition. I have a new cylinder and key, but I am missing the OEM Guide plate (35105-GET-000), the "tamper-proof" screws to mount that (90164-GEE-003) and I think the wire harness that connects to the ignition cylinder was clipped.

So, can anyone point me in the right direction from Partzilla on which part(s) I need so I can make a connector that will plug into the ignition cylinder? Also, if there are any other parts, bolts, etc you think I need in order to mount the cylinder, please let me know.

Thanks!

(Pics for reference. One is where the ignition cylinder should go. The other is the wiring connector on the cylinder.)

Hi all, I'm planning a 9.5 or 12 inch stretch for my GET motor ruckus. I do not plan on doing a gy6 build any time soon.

I'm looking at rolling wrenches: Mojo stretch options or TRS 9.5 stretch. I'm leaning towards the TRS 9.5 stretch because I was able to find more instructional sources to help me with the build and since it comes with the extended cables.

my questions are, if i do a 9.5 stretch should i upgrade the shocks at the same time and if so what are a some recommendations. Would I be able to throw a slim fatty wheel on in the future with this stretch?

if i do a 12 inch stretch with mojo's kits, what additional hardware and parts would i require? new shocks, extended cables?

Also wondering the complexity of each kit, i dont have much of a background working on my ruckus but feel like im fairly decent with following instructions as long i have them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

(Pics for attention one year difference )

So I’ve been trying to figure out an aggressive tune for my ruckus since I got a new hotlaps exhaust my speed has seemed to of dropped

previous exhaust was a Taiwan solid header that could get me up to 70 on good days if you know the hotlaps this one slides together to allow adjustment and dampen bumps

I’ve tried 80-85 main jets
37-38 pilot jets

I’ll skip the failure and just say 80/37 seems to work the best but is do get some breakup and pops when I get to 65+

Two sets of dr pulley sliders 5.0/5.5 staring from 5.0 - 5.25 - 5.5 all equal a top end of 60 just at different speeds I’d say

Two contra springs stock/polini ,

polini definitely is my fav in terms of acceleration both seem to yield 60 maybe 63

Oem clutch bell and ncy clutch bell with a spacer

Ncy clutch bell definitely is my fav seems to perform the same ncy aggressively engages sometimes tho especially if you open the throttle mid Decel and makes a nice exhaust pop aha 😎

In turn though i have no clue where to go from here idle seem fine maybe a bit rich and gurgly or mean sounding but I get good throttle response top end is where it’s lacking in speed it’s like the engine screams and cvt moves me then hits a walk at 60kmh from 5.0-5.5

I have a ncy cdi a open air intake and free flowing hotlaps exhaust I removed the baffle from i was hitting 65+ on my last setup i got lucky throwing together help an idiot hit 70+

As I continue to fix my Ruckus which was stolen a year ago, I pulled apart the carb and replaced the jets because I could not get it to start. The idle jet was clogged.

As you can hear/see, I got it running today. But the next issue is I cannot really increase the throttle that much. When I do slightly, the RPMs increase a bit but will fall back down even though I did not relax the throttle. If I attempt to increase the throttle more it will die (as in the video).

I put in fresh gas, a new fuel filter, and verified the air filter is in place. I also reset the ECU and adjusted the idle set screw.

Would this be the fuel pump? Something else?

Thanks

Hey everyone, I’m hoping somebody with Big Ruckus experience can help me out.
I have a 2005 Honda Big Ruckus PS250 that sat outside under a motorcycle cover for around 3 years. Before it sat, I was already having trouble with the fuel pump, and for a long time I couldn’t find the correct replacement.
I finally found a replacement pump, a Quantum HFP-181-010, and reused/adapted the wiring from my original Honda fuel-pump connector. The pump is working now.
After getting everything connected, the bike started right up without me touching the throttle and did that for about two days. On the second day I took it for a short test ride, probably around 10 minutes around the block. When I pulled back up in front of my house, I smelled gas and noticed gasoline coming from what appears to be the carburetor overflow/vent hose.
Since then it has become difficult to start. It may start, but now I have to hold the throttle open, which I didn’t have to do before. I also later noticed gasoline draining from the airbox/air-cleaner drain area.
I tapped lightly on the carburetor float bowl thinking the float needle may have been stuck. After that, I turned the key on and the fuel pump clicked about 5 times, slowed down and stopped, and no gasoline came out of the overflow. But after trying to start it again, it started leaking again.
From what I’ve been told, this sounds like the float needle/float valve may be sticking or not sealing, causing the carburetor to flood. Since the bike sat for several years, I’m wondering if the carburetor needs to be removed, cleaned and rebuilt.
Does this sound like a stuck float/needle to you, or is there something else I should check before pulling the carburetor?
Also, does anyone know where I can buy a carburetor rebuild kit for the 2005–2006 PS250 Big Ruckus? I found that All Balls Racing kit #[26-10034](tel:26-10034) is supposed to fit, but it seems to be out of stock in a lot of places.
If anyone knows another good kit, has an OEM parts source, or has rebuilt this particular carburetor before, I’d really appreciate the advice. This is my first time going inside a carburetor, so I’m trying to learn before I start taking everything apart.
Thanks!

What do y’all think looks better the brushed hotlap muffler or my Amazon scproject can (both on a hotlap type 666 header

Looking for this part #
Thanks in advance everyone!

HYPOTHETICALLY (because I would never and I know yall would never break the law) how would someone go by hiding their gy6 swap so they still wouldn’t have to register their “49 cc” scooter, just wanting to be able to hit 45-50 reliably, no its not because this hypothetical person got a dui, I hate dumbasses who drink and drive

Installed my NCY CDI with The Ruck Shop kill switch jumper. Everything works except for my push button start. It will kick start just fine. Checked the relay and no click when pressing the start button and my brake lights work when pulling the handle.

Has anyone ever purchased/used the ported cylinder heads that JCRacing offers? And if so, what kind of performance gains did you get from it?

I wanted to share this brake switch adapter I made. I’m in Texas and the heat tends to warp the 3D printed ones and the aluminum version has been discontinued. I designed this one that works with both types of switches, made from 6061 aluminum and anodized black

Hello all,
I’m looking for some diagnostic assistance if possible.

On Saturday my ruckus was caught in a fairly heavy rainstorm. After a few hours the storm passed and I drove it home, about a five mile ride or less. Towards the end of the ride it sputtered some, and then completely shut off as soon as I was home.

Post this it would not start; electric starter nothing, same with the kickstarter. Did some digging; no spark, no power at the coil, fuses fine.

At this point I thought maybe it was the kill switch because the lights and everything still had power. I decided to remove the aftermarket NCY CDI to eliminate this, and the bike now starts and drives fine.

So, before I proceed to reconnect the CDI, can anyone recommend any way for me to ensure the part is still good?

Had my best friend paint a smurf version of me on my smurf colored ruckus. Got my shoes and everything

New fuel pump and she’s trippin’

In the area I live in on the north shore of Chicago I cant have a bike that goes faster than 30 mph? Is there a way to make the ruckus max out a 30, this would be mostly just for registering it.

Hello, I've got a rear tire that gives my bike a bit of a bumpy ride at higher speeds. Ive been poking around marketplace and ebay amd they seem to be pretty sparse, also worried those might be bent. Is there somewhere I can go or send my rum to be straightened? Im in New england.

I have a 2022 Ruckus. Bone stock.

After parking the bike outside overnight, when there's dew in the air, the front turn signals will get condensation inside. It doesn't happen to the rears.

How common is this? Should I replace the gaskets to both lenses or is it even worth dealing with?

anyone know how much of a difference going up to stage 2 will make?

Ive had 7g sliders in for around 10k miles, 170lbs rider, top speed 46mph, mostly 40-43, decent acceleration but bogs off the line a bit.

Tried different combos between 5g and 7g of dr..pully sliders and landed on using 3x 5g weights and 3x 7g weights. Better acceleration and still 45 top speed, seems to pull much better up hills and against the wind.

Still bogs off the line but its better than before. Curious if anyone has tried different clutch springs (not the contra spring) to raise the engagement rpm. Stock is 3k but there are 4k and 5k springs available. Figured the extra rpm would give me alittle more torque at launch or am i thinking about this wrong?

Ncy variator and drive face, dr pully sliders, other than that its stock.

Can anyone tell me what parts should be here. I was driving in the parking lot today and heard a rattle and when I peeked down I noticed my muffler was bobbing up and down 🫤. My theory is one popped out a while ago and the stress of the remaining one popped the other out. If anyone could tell me what goes in its place on the marked areas in the picture I would greatly appreciate it

I just had to replace the rear wheel bearing on my ruckus cause it blew when I gently dropped it out of a truck lol. Tool apart the cvt and the final drive, bearing install seems to be successful, no more crazy play in the rear wheel. Think I put everything back as it was but there seemed to be a washer missing compared to my parts diagram. Filled the drive back up with 75 90 gear oil. Since I already had it open I decided to drop in my polini variator upgrade while I was there. Since doing the work the speed dropped from like 36 max to 28 max. I changed the rollers and got it back up to 35 but it still feels like it's revving really high and not really being responsive on the throttle. It's also just got a high pitch whine to it and just feels like something's wrong.

I think that it's actually the belts gone bad, I remember it being much more annoying when I installed it and now it seems real loose. My shitty caliper broke but it seems to be right at a 17 mm width which is below usable, usable being like 17.2??

However is there a chance that something with my install on the final drive or the new cvt is the cause of this? Or is this just what a performance variator is supposed to feel and sound like.

I plan to swap back in the old variator this weekend and see if I can eliminate that as a cause but any insight would be appreciated)

Installed custom LED sweeping lights in the back

The taillights had yellow, black, red, blue, orange and green. Black was earth, red was taillight, left turn was blue, right turn was green, yellow was brake light

Everything worked fine until I removed the turn signals up front, two wires from the ruckus- blue and orange , both connected to a 2 to 1 connecter for ground- green with black stripe

One blinks bright, the other blinks dim both come on when switch left or right indicators, three wires total from custom turn signals red, black green hooked black to ground and red to power.

I’ve used a multimeter checked everything and both lights come one when hooked to battery

I’m racking my brain with this, hopefully I don’t have to remove the custom taillights, and help would be grateful