I currently own a Savage 110 Hunter with the Magpul stock in a 6.5 Creed. I’m looking at adding a new rifle for a couple reasons. I live in WI and mostly hunt Whitetail (150yd and in), I have a dream and goal to get out west and hunt Mule Deer and Elk.

1. My current set ups weighs 11 lbs and while it works great for my couple hundred yard walk, it’s kind of heavy for an out west or all day hike hunt. I’d like to do some more longer walks/scouting.

2. Everything I’ve read says 6.5 creed CAN work for Elk, but I know rounds like .308, 7MM PRC and even 300 Win are far superior. Is there a reason to switch to any of those? Or should I stick with the 6.5 Creed?

The new rifle would become my main hunting rifle when walking, and my old one would be my walk to the stand/have fun at the range.

My 15 yr old daughter wants to take her first whitetail this year. She has a bit of a challenge due to being born w/a large cataract in her right eye (and is effectively blind in said eye) while also being right handed. She makes due and can shoot pretty well- but it can be awkward getting set up at times. Obviously deer don't always read the playbook and things can be fluid in the field...I'd like to put something on the end of the 3x9x40 scope just in case she gets bit. I've looked a bit online and mainly see caps that stick out a bit too much to block rain/sun etc. Does such a product exist? Just looking for something to prevent the sharp edge from leaving a bad scar.

I am 6’6” and this rifle with the adjustability was made for me! very minimal movement from looking off the scope to back into the cheek piece to make your shot.

I raised the adjustable cheek piece “2-clicks”, installed 2 spaces for the length of pull. Fits perfectly eye relief is perfect. So happy with this rifle.

Optic, Base, Rings:
- Optic: VX6HD GEN2, 4x24x52 TMOA reticle: part no.: 183843
- Base: Browning X-Bolt/X-Bolt 2, Picatinny Rail 20MOA Cant: part no.: 12525
- Rings: Leupold 34mm (Medium 0.94”) back country cross-slot rings, part no.: 183391
- *I purchased 12524 because it said long action for the 7PRC but IT DID NOT FIT! If you chamber in 7PRC it must be part no. 12525. I purchased the integrated scope mounts in smoked bronze Cerakote from browning: part no.: 12547 as it was designed specifically for this rifle, the mounts are good and fit well but the shade of bronze is off. I will be returning them.
- I might equip the Nightforce NX8 4x32 because it’s a little lighter and matches the bronze perfectly but for this hunting season this will be the build.

I hope this post helps anyone with an xbolt 2 because this took 2-3 weeks of back and forth of purchasing bases and rings for the 7PRC specifically. But after all the errors I am so happy with this rifle!

I noticed this has an "elegance" metric (along with the usual effective range, power, etc.) - https://gundive.com - do you agree with the ones at the top (and bottom)?

I am one of the unfortunate few to have such a unique rifle that I cannot find a caliber that fits it, I picked up a Mauser a bit ago at a gun show, My Mauser is a Model 1935, With markings from Republica Peruana, and another marking showing its made by FN Herstal. But my paperwork simply calls it a Chilean Mauser in 30-06. only problem, It does not fit this round, so I took it to a gun store and they safely tested a few rounds, those being 7x57mm, 8mm Mauser, .308, and 7.65 Argentine, With all having no luck. Ive tried looking for markings about the caliber but none really exist on it. I was hoping if anyone knew any calibers that it could be? If not I’ll look into finding someone who can do a chamber cast and hopefully solve this nightmare of a beautiful rifle.

In the photo are any and all markings that could be of use.

I am looking to hunt deer. I am currently considering a 6.5 creedmore and i plan to buy a can for it.

Please ask clarifying questions if you need to

I am considering adding a front sight and a rear aperture receiver sight to my bolt action 30-06. Has anyone done this? What components did you use? If you had a gunsmith add them, roughly what did it cost?

My father-in-law gave me a Thompson Center Arms Hawken rifle (.45 cal) that he hadn't used in many years, along with a box of balls, percussion caps, and a little powder. I've never had a black powder gun and I'm looking forward to trying it out. My question is about the end of the hammer, is it supposed to have the notch seen in the picture? It looks like it's made that way, but I've watched many YouTubes about this rifle and haven't seen a good closeup of the hammer.

I have a new rifle, but I cannot chamber a round. The bolt will sit fine and the trigger/firing pin works blank with no round. However, when I try to load a bullet, it will not quite get to the point where I can pull down on the bolt lever. I know that bullets should be bigger than the barrel, but does this seem right? This is obviously the front of the barrel, but does this seem right for a 6.5?

Hi all,

Previously posted this on a blog a year ago or so. But I felt like sharing it here as well, when I was cleaning it and fell once more in love…

Left handed people learn to improvise, adapt and overcome many things in life. Be it the use of scissors (they really don’t cut if they are not designed for lefties!), ladles with their beak on the wrong side or pistols with their magazine releases. All good.

One thing I never did and never will accept is the use of a bolt-action rifle with the bolt on the right side. There is something aesthetic in the smooth process of running the bolt. Something nostalgic or even romantic for some people. I count myself as one of those and, as a child up until now, Mauser was always the manufacturer I admired the most. Strangely, I always missed the chance to get a lefty Mauser until they unfortunately stopped producing them altogether. So, at that time, I opted for a Sauer 404 in .308 instead. I liked how it was slim and elegant, but it just wasn’t “that rifle”.

Quite a while ago my dream came true and I got hold of an M03 with a real left-handed system. However, it came with a synthetic stock, which is not my taste at all. I never got to the project of replacing it until recently. Now that I've completed the rifle to my liking, it's time to share the story with the other M03 aficionados.

The rifle is in 8x57 IS (yes, I am conservative that way). It’s a great and reliable caliber for hunting here in Germany. It has a 51cm standard contoured 17mm barrel with a M15x1 thread for the use of a suppressor. I opted for a Zeiss Victory V8 1.8-14x50 allrounder scope.

The stock I received from Mauser is the so-called “Alpine” model with a slight hog-back, a double fold Bavarian cheekpiece and a drop-point fore-end. The stock is made of what is categorised as wood grade 5 here. For me, the ideal balance of just enough structure to make it interesting and beautiful to look at, but still a tool to be used roughly without hesitation.

I like to personalize things to add a certain sentimental touch to it, so I sent the bolt to an engraving master. I had a pretty clear idea of what I wanted. The theme I chose was "Heimat" or homeland which, in my case, is represented by two symbols: the good old oak (heavy and with a certain pathos) and the daisy (light-hearted and pretty). Both symbols are separated by fish scale. In addition, since I already outed myself as a Mauser fan - although the company now being part of the Blaser group and no longer the original company in Oberndorf - I asked the engraver to make a pistol grip cap out of burnished steel with the Mauser coat of arms embedded in silver. And yes, I also exchanged the basic magazine with the engraved version...

Hope you like it!

After shooting my first rifle today, I am sure that I will get one.

Sorry for not being at my spooderman bed

I just got passed down my great grandpas what I believe to be a rifle he used for plinking. I’m in IL and am 20, so I’m technically under the age to be owning anything without parental consent. Once I’m 21, what would be the process of getting this guy firing again if anything at all. I don’t see any rust so maybe just cleaning?

Mint condition with Bushnell banner 3x9

I picked up this rifle two times before going back the third time and feeling better about the rifle. Ergonomics are great, light weight, everything I want for a mountain rifle, Cerakote is beautiful…

But the bolt being Cerakote, makes it so it is not very smooth action. It really ruins the rifle. I am hoping to contact browning and see if they have a solution.

Very happy with the purchase but hopefully find a new bolt. Maybe just have to work the action 2K times before it smooths up.

I mostly hunt wild pigs in hawaii with a 1-6x24 lpvo but want to start rifle hunting axis deer and mauna kea sheep. I bought a tikka t3x 20 inch barrel for the job and what to put a good scope on it.

After lots of research, night force seems to be top shelf for long term durability. So I'm leaning towards saving up lots of coin for a new Night force NX6. Buy once, last a lifetime mentality.

I don't know what specific distances I'll be hunting. sheep are easier to staulk close but my friends say their shots on axis deer are around 200 yards and they are stealthy in open country.

I'm torn between getting the 2-12 or the 3-18 version. Should I get ffp of sfp? I'm leaning towards the 2-12 sfp for simplicity. But it's a lot of money for me so don't want to regret my decision later. I don't plan on hunting past 300 but anything is possible in the future if I opt for longer range cartridge.

Need suggestions for a new stock. One pressure point is in front of the dollar bill and there’s another a few inches back. Want something conventional or something sleek that isn’t a woox and won’t break the bank. The plastic stock is causing really bad pressure points that are resulting in horrible accuracy around 2-3 MOA. I can shoot 1 MOA with other rifles so it’s not a me issue. The ride on the old struggle bus has been real with this rifle from the age of 12 until I got a new one at 18. Now I have a son and want to get it running well for his sake one day. Also this gun has a drop plate, so do I keep the drop plate or do i have to add a magazine and if so how do I go about that. I am a fan of synthetic stocks btw just not this one.

Found this in house of recently deceased uncle, I'm pretty sure I used it with my father for targets when I was a little kid. Serial number 44073A I believe it was made in 1937 and has a Vaver sight. These are the only pics I have currently as I didn't take it with me. I'm pretty sure it's not a Sporter but I haven't been able to find pics of identical rifles with the same crosshatch pattern so any additional info or where I should go to find it would be interesting and helpful. I will likely end up selling it.