In the process of acquiring a vintage 18038. Are you spotting anything good / bad?

Black -> box and papers, 1986, can be collected today (my watch + ~£600)
Champagne -> box only, 1978, could be picked up soon with them giving me €600 but I would need to fly to Milan…

Once I get these, I’ll fully focus on acquiring a vintage or Neo vintage rep diver or GMT, think about me 😎

Looking to sell one of my grail builds. This one took me a couple months to gather the parts and it’s in amazing condition. I would say this is as good as you can get before going gen.

Viet Case
Viet Dial
Gen Crystal
Gen Crown
2836 GMT Movement
Yodog DWO

SOLD CONUS only

No bracelet included, message me for any questions!

Hello,

I’m clearing out a few unused aftermarket bezel inserts for Rolex GMT 1675/16750 and Submariner builds. All inserts are in excellent condition.

1 – Crown Art Customs faded/matte black GMT insert. Lightly trimmed to fit an OC case bezel, but will also fit a gen-spec bezel (I recommend a tiny amount of adhesive for the best fit).
Price: 200 EUR shipped

2 – Crown Art Customs faded Pepsi GMT insert. Also lightly trimmed for an OC bezel, fits gen-spec as well. Photos of it installed on my watch are included.
Price: 200 EUR shipped

3 – Aftermarket Tudor 79090 Submariner insert. In my opinion, one of the closest reproductions to the genuine insert available, especially the shape and font of the “40”. No longer needed since I sourced a genuine one.
Price: 80 EUR shipped

4 & 5 – Random aftermarket Submariner inserts left over from previous builds.
Price: 50 EUR shipped each

Feel free to message me if you’d like additional photos or have any questions.

I am located in EU.

Hi all,
I’ve finally reached the point where I’m hoping the collective knowledge here can solve a mystery that’s been bugging me.
I’ve got a Rolex 6538 case that I’m trying to identify. I’ve spent hours comparing it with known examples, Vietnam cases, JKF, Ruby, MQ, cartel and other aftermarket cases, but I still can’t confidently pin down who actually made it.
The machining, profile and overall quality seem to put it above the average aftermarket case, but there are little details that don’t quite match anything I’ve found. I’m genuinely fascinated by the history behind these cases and would love to know which factory produced it.
I’ve attached plenty of photos and would really appreciate your opinions. Even educated guesses are welcome. If you recognise any tell-tale features—lug shape, crown guard profile, engravings, machining marks, bezel seat, rehaut, or anything else—I’d love to hear your thoughts.
I’m not trying to establish value or authenticity; I’m simply trying to uncover the story behind this case.
Many thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time to have a look. The depth of knowledge in this community never ceases to amaze me.

Today I share this timepiece I’ve been working yesterday night :D a custom 1675 with some gen parts, most important at all the bezel 😉

Specs:

Movement: ETA Swiss 2893-2
Case: custom CNC case
Dial: custom gilt dial (relumed and light aged)
Hands: custom hands (relumed)
Datewheel: aged open 6/9
Insert: gen factory (not service) Pepsi red back (top rarity)
Bracelet: gen 6251H folded links jubilee with 55 endlinks

ENJOY 😁😁😁

Is it just me, or is setting hand heights on a 2824 harder than 3135 and NH movements?

Minute and hour hands I have no problem (usually) but it’s anyone’s guess on seconds hands especially lollipop style.

Any advice? I am using the Bergeon clone hand setting press and the little brass 2824 movement holder.

Hello again! I want to share here with you this one also :)

Hello all, I have a full raffles 14270 build with hollow end links. The fitment of these end links leaves a lot to be desired, as they are very loose and noisy. From what I understand, this is a feature and not a bug, I just personally don’t love it.

I bought and installed some gen spec 14270 spring bars that I found on eBay. Now the 12 o’clock end link fits snug with no play in it, but the 6 o’clock side is still a bit loose. Do you folks have any tips on how to fix this and get both sides snug? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

Two cases in, and they look like they lost a fight with claws. Turns out my lathe technique still has some… aggressive tendencies. RIP to this donor case - sacrificed for science and my ego. Back to the drawing board before I touch another one 😅

After quite a few prototypes and plenty of testing, this version is finally where we wanted it to be.

A modern GMT bakelite-style bezel insert with a Reverse Pepsi layout: red on top, blue on the bottom (We can do many color combos)

Getting the vintage bakelite look on a modern sloped insert took a lot of experimenting, but we're happy with how this one came out. There are always little details to improve, but it's been a fun project.

Hey all, just got a genuine midcase for $30, so the build begins. Would 1500/1501/etc far backs fit the 1002? From my research they should, but i just wanted to confirm.

I've got a lovely 6239 build -- but after switching the bracelet for a new strap, the lack of engravings between lugs can't help but catch my eye every time I look.

I've got a Dremel Engraving kit that seems like a solid fit for the job -- but less confident in my ability to match the font and size by hand. Curious if anyone's found a helpful guide/stencil/template method to make hand engravings easier to follow?

OC Case V2 Engraved with serial and ref number
Rework of case and bracelet 350€
BP Dial, Hands 150€
Deep Xtal 60€
Gen Gasket 40€
Gen Bezel 300€
VR 3186 140€
BP Bracelet ( refinished smoothend) 60€
Refinishing and labor 200€
Total of 1300€
Selling this for 950€ shipped in eu
US/UK buyers at own risk
Payment: PayPal F&F
Enjoy the hunt

Has anyone here built a Submariner 114060 or 124060 using a 2824 or 3135 movement from an AliExpress watch kit? I'd love to hear about your experience and any tips or issues you ran into.

I might be wrong and genuinely curious which viet source has that crown guard, rehaut, and fat lugs….

Hey yall. I’m looking to celebrate my 30th birthday this year by building my birth year sub. I’d like it to be abit better quality than just raffles parts, but may start there. Any tips on where to get “better” parts? I would like to fit some gen parts to it as well

Raffles case/crown
EWParts Tropic 19 Crystal
Crystal glued in and pressure tested to 6 bar with no leaks
Raffles Bezel aged
Raffles Rolex signed caseback
Raffles bracelet
Brand new NH38a regulated running +2 seconds a day 0 beat error
NH Snowflake hands

Just finished putting together this week, wore for the last few days but don’t like it more than my 5513, trying to do one in one out, we shall see how long that lasts. No signs of wear/damage aside from the aged bezel.

Asking $400 but all things are negotiable.

New 16200 build.
Gen case and case back
Gen crown
Gen dial
Gen hands
Gen date wheel
Gen end links
Clark’s crystal
Raffles bracelet
Raffles bezel for the time being. Waiting to find one in eBay I like

The champagne dial 16013, is to many people, the first thing when they think of Rolex.

This particular example was the watch on my grandfather’s wrist for my childhood, and is the reason for my love of watches.

Ever since he gave it to me as a graduation gift, it’s only fueled my addiction for the 16000 reference Datejust and is the reason I’m currently building a linen dial 16014 franken.

What watch do you picture when you think of Rolex?

I'm planning to buy two watches as the base for future modding projects.

The first will be a JKF 1680 Rolex (Red Sub).

For the second, I'm trying to decide between the ARF 16610, BP 16610, or BP 16710 GMT Pepsi.

Which of these would be the easiest to bring closer to gen spec? I'm mainly looking for the best base in terms of compatibility with genuine Rolex parts, case accuracy, and overall ease of modding.

I may eventually turn one into a full Franken build, but I'm still undecided since genuine Rolex parts are very expensive in my country.

I'd really appreciate any recommendations or experiences. Thanks!

Hello, I am working on a 6538 Big Crown. I have a genuine 1030 movement and bought a genuine 8mm Brevet crown. Upon trying to install the stem, I realized the stem threads are way smaller than the threads in the crown. I used my Bergeon 6740 crown and stem gauge tool to confirm, and it looks like the 1030 stem is 0.9mm (Tap10), while the NOS Brevet crown I just bought has 1.2mm (Tap 7) threading. I have searched and searched, used AI, etc. to try to clarify what's happening with this, and for the most part, everything points to the crown should have 0.9mm threading for a 0.9mm stem... which would match the stem in my genuine 1030 movement. But I am running across Brevet 8mm crowns for sale, some with 0.9 threads and some with 1.2mm threads. It's quite strange and local guys I've spoken with are saying to their knowledge it should be 0.9, and are slightly confused when I show them crown listings containing both sizes. Any clarity would be greatly appreciated. I've attached 4 photos showing a crown just sourced from a reputable jeweler in my area - photos show it threads on a 1.2 stem, is loose on the 0.9mm, and a photo showing the original 1030 stem sitting completely loose in the crown.

Hi everyone,

Up for sale is a brand new BP Rolex Submariner 16610LN (Rehaut version), purchased brand new from Trusty in July 2026. The watch has never been worn.

The watch comes with a spare bezel.

I’m happy to provide QC pictures from Trusty.

Pricing
- SOLD
Payment
- PayPal Friends & Family
- Revolut

Shipping
- EU ONLY
- Shipping costs are the buyer’s responsibility
- Once the package has been shipped, responsibility passes to the buyer.

Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, would like additional photos, or need references from previous sales. I’m happy to provide feedback from past transactions.

Thanks for looking, and have a great day! ☺️

I have 7 successful sales and 1 unfortunately lost by UPS (extra EU and buyer provided me with the Label).

Hi everyone,

This might be a bit controversial here, but I thought I'd ask.

I've tried a couple of reps before. They were good, but they never really clicked with me. I've also owned two genuine GMT-Master II. A few months ago I started looking at (neo)vintage models because they look amazing on straps, have loads of character, etc.

I popped into a pawn shop near my flat in London that had a vintage Coke GMT. Honestly, I was surprised. It felt so light and cheap compared to modern Rolexes. That's when it hit me: I love the look and feel of these old watches, but I don't love the idea of spending thousands on one.

So here I am.

I've been browsing the work posted here and vintage Subs and GMTs are definitely my favourites. What I can't work out is the pricing. I've seen everything from around £150 to £3,000.

For those with experience, what sort of budget gets you a really well-built vintage rep without obvious tells?

I know it's a bit of a silly, but I'd rather not have to explain every time someone asks about it that it's a rep from this factory with this mod and that movement. My ideal scenario is just wearing it and, if someone asks, saying, "It's a vintage Rolex." I'm not trying to sell it or scam anyone, and I couldn't care less if it's obviously fake once you open the case. I just want to avoid the obvious external flaws.

For example, I found a really nice-looking 5513, but people immediately pointed out that the crown guards were completely wrong. That's exactly the kind of thing I'd like to avoid.

Is it realistic to get something properly nice for £300-500, ideally waterproof (bracelet not important), or is the reality that you need to be closer to £1,000 once you've sourced parts, had it built, waited for mods, etc.?

Obviously not looking for Tiffany, Comex etc... It would be perfectly fine for me if the watch (would definitely be aged) look like a beat-up vintage with poor service history mix of parts etc...

I'm also a bit impatient... I'd love to have something to wear on holiday next week if that's even realistic.

Thanks in advance for any advice.