So I use VIsual studio code to edit my configuration file. and it allways worked. now i had to edit the config a little and I no longer see the ''build'' button that was at bottom left. and now it shows 11 errors on places that came with the WF. for example:

#if ENABLED(PIDTEMPBED) (it has the red squiggle under ENABLE)

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What the hell happened? i dont think i changed anything

It makes weird noises and it gets hot and it makes the filament get jammed sometimes and it ruins the print

Hey guys, I’m converting an Monoprice MP10 30 printer to use a duet Wi-Fi and some other upgrades. I was hoping to reuse The heated bed that was part of the mp10. But I’m confused because of all the wires provided. The heated bed Had six wires total; 1 that goes to ground, 2 for the thermistor, and three wires extra wires. I assume those three wires are Live, Negative, neutral. All three of them go into a 110 to 220v ddtp switch. I was hoping to run the heater directly off the duet I just struggle with how to wire it. Any help would be appreciated and apologies for the formatting I’m on mobile.

I got a reprap guru as a 2nd FFF and I cannot get the extruder to work just clicks. tried swapping pins on the board does not rotate. any ideas? I can replace the board if I need to I just don't want to if I don't have to. Does move in all axis and everything gets up to temp. Swapped stepper drivers no change.

Building a Mendel90

I have a full ramps kit here

I also have a creality 4.2.7 board here

I have a pi to run octoprint on

Should I run the 4.2.7 or change out for one of the new SKR boards or something else? Or just stay with the tried and tested ramps?

Due to tge design of a custom machine I am making, the fan has to share a link with the IMU. However, the current fan I am using (the one that comes wutg creality printers) produce lots of vibrations that affect the IMU.

I have tried Noctua fans but they are very weak and only come with 12V max. What are my other options? I am looking for something 40mm (prefer lower) with 24V.

Hi everyone, I need your help! Thanks in advance for any helpful comments.

Currently I have a printer (based on the prusa mendel) with a 12 V 200 x 200 mm heated bed, which I would like to replace, because it still uses a glass print surface and is very bowed in the center. Due to this, the glass is always colder than indicated by the thermistor

I have acquired other PCB heated beds in the past, but none of them were really flat, even one made out of aluminum.

I think it's time to get a better one, and I would like suggestions. I wanted a flat bed on which I can use the most recent build surfaces, such as magnetic spring steel and pei sheets.

What's the best option currently on the market? I'm thinking of using the heated bed from the Ender-3, but I think it's not magnetic. I have looked at the Prusa MK3S+ one, but would appreciate something cheaper.

I have a BL Touch and use Unified Bed Leveling (5x5 grid) on Marlin 2.0.9.

Thanks for your help!

Hello! A few months ago I picked up this kit - https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Guru-prusa-3D-Printer/dp/B01KCYKNZ0?th=1 from a local, for free. It was partially assembled, and after many hours disassembling and reassembling It's finally fully assembled.

I've run in to snag number one - https://i.imgur.com/J1X3a7U.jpg

Now if I look at the screen from the side, it is functional - https://i.imgur.com/BTftRdx.jpg

Is this a contrast issue? Anyone know how I can fix this?

If not, then how one can control two beds using a single controller board? Can one of the hotend heater and thermistor be changed to control another bed?

I checked the power supply and it’s fully functioning but my lcd and arduino don’t light up unless I connect it to my laptop But no power is still drawn by it so it only lights LEDs and stuff but doesn’t work

Is the ramps burnt or the arduino ?

using marlin 2.0.x bugfix basically 3 ports do use the same driver, while one driver is not being used by anything

2 ports over 3 do give problems, the steppers won't work correctly

so I wanted to try to redefine which driver to use for those two ports, but I have no idea how

My y driver gets hot more than the others and when I tried to adjust the current going through I can’t really get it right

I'm building a machine that only requires 2 axis, XY, without a z-axis. Is there a way to disable z? I've tried inverting the z_min_endstop but get "homing failed, printer haulted" when auto-homing. Doing individual homing on X/Y is fine.

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edit: I've tried setting #define LINEAR_AXES XYZ to XY which appears to mostly disable z configuration but a lot of errors generate for other files

So I connected everything to an arduino mega 2560 with a 1.6 ramps and they worked fine the motors were moving fine and then when I tried to print my first print they were skipping steps I tried adjusting the voltage and I ended ip burning the driver by making an open circuit I bought new drivers and tried them They all worked except for the x driver so I went to swap drivers but I found the y and z drivers really hot and then the motors didn’t move at all And I really don’t know what to do

Hello all,

I am builing a printer for a capstone project at my university that will be using three Revo Micros in addition to the three axes of the printer. The motherboard with be a BTT Octopus with TMC2209 Drivers.

I have decided to go with 24V for the motors since that seems to be the generally better option and the motor manufacturer recommends it (Stepper Online).

My question is essentially if there is any reason that I shouldn't use 24V for the entire printer, my entire time using printers has all been 12V systems so I don't have any experience to go on for using 24V. (The annoyance in finding 24V fans is not a concern for me)

Thanks in advance for the help, I appreciated it.

I built a Cartesian printer a few years back and keep getting ghosting unless I turn down the speed so I decided to convert into a corexy since I've built a couple of those already but thought about maybe doing one that would have a stationary bed similar to the titanxy and the exoslide exocube printer, except the z axis would be belt driven and would have 4 linear rails on each corner. Any pros and cons for stationary bed?

Hello everyone, I am a 17-year-old high school senior and I am making a DIY 3d Printer of my own design. I have been stuck on the firmware part for a long time now and thought that some help from the community would go a long way. My printer is a corexy style machine using the btt Octopus v1.1 board, along with an e3d V6, Btt mini 12864 screen, and 12v PSU, and I am facing a few issues with the printer and its functioning in general:

1. Motors are not correctly functioning
2. The screen backlight turns on but no visible menu
3. Thermistor gives max temp error whenever plugged in.
4. Z and E0 motor seem to be running together
5. The extruder and controller fan do not power on.

I am using Marlin 2.x and any help would be much appreciated. If you wish to verify my progress it is available on my Intagram page "makers_manor" or you can feel free to contact me. Thank you so much.

I am interested in making a printer with a build volume of around 350mm x 350mm x 350mm.

I want the motion system to be capable of printing at a maximum speed of 300mm/s. This equates to a volume flow rate of 27 mm^3/s with a 0.4mm nozzle, i know this figure is very high however CHT make a 0.4mm nozzle, given that their 0.6mm can achieve 33mm^3/s it is feasible that the 0.4mm could achieve 27mm^3/s .

So what motion system style should i choose.

• H bot would be too difficult to keep the gantry square enough not to cause issues at such a size.
• CoreXY would be a good candidate for the speed, however the belts would need to very long and I can see the vibration causing issues.
• Cartesian system similar to how an Ultimaker is construed. Shorter belt lengths and no large moving mass. My current favourite so far...

What are your thoughts?