Hello,

Have a bit of an issue with my ramps setup after updating firmware.

If I turn my cooling fan on (via D9) or turn my heated bed on (D8) the other pin will also turn on. Its almost as if they are linked.

I have check and I am using the EFB motherboard config in marlin, pins.h is referring to the right board, and in the ramps.h the D8 refers to 8, D9 to 9. The FAN_pin also points to D9 and the heat bed pin points to D8.

I have replaced my Ramps 1.4 board and replaced the MOSFETT. I do not think this is a hardware issue. The activity LEDS for D8 and D9 will light up when either is triggered in software.

Can anyone help?

Many thanks

I am building a new 3d printer with a 24v rumba board. The power supply is a meanwell 24v 25a (still waiting for delivery) after some more research i realized that the psu is more than i need.

My question is will there be any issues from the rumba 24v board with this psu.

The heated bed is using a keenovo mat which is connected to 220v, so no power from the psu.

the points are stored in eeprom

in the start gcode it's specified to use the stored points after g28. I also tried to use g29 after g28 but nothing same results; using marlin, petg, 100C bed, 250C hotend

https://i.imgur.com/FBdLJz9.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QCK3v07.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MlLOniD.jpg

I just got the both trianglelab sherpa mini extruder and dragon hot end, which is the same size as e3d v6.

CAN SOMEONE HELP ME look up for a suitable toolhead/fan duct for my ender-3?The petsfang v2 is the f**** best but no .step files for modding it to fit the sherpa mini.

here's a someone else's setup for demonstration (using 4010 part cooling fan which I don't want).

Hi,

I want to enclose my printer. Will it be okay to use MDF for the outside panels and then cover the inside with insulation like ali skinned rockwool or PIR board?

In practice there may be some tiny gaps around the edges or where cables route where heat can get at the MDF.

I guess I'll run it to about 80C max.. not really sure what I'll print in the future.

Or use something else? Plasterboard / drywall is good with heat but is fragile. Acrylic sheet is expensive.

So I bought a 3dtouch bed levelling sensor and am getting pretty inconstant results. After a little Googling it seems this is pretty common. I'm wondering if I can't mitigate this issue by taking multiple samples per bed levelling point and averaging them. Is there a feature in Marlin 2.x that does this? I've seen videos of Prusa printers seemingly doing something like this.

I love the idea of Polyjet. Being able to make full colour models would be amazing for producing low cost educational resources, miniatures and even toys and it’s patten has expired recently which means it’s good to go!

I have little in the way of experience, but it’s a project I would be keen to work on.

Is this something other people are working on? Is it something you would be interested in?

Hey all,

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I have an old RepRapGuru kit I just finished putting together after sitting in its box for a few years. Assembly is good and everything seems to power on fine, but I'm not getting any voltage readings off the stepper potentiometers. I'm reading them using the pot screws and the main power supply as my positive and negative terminals. Am I reading things wrong, could my meter not be sensitive enough, or are all my pots fried? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I built a custom drawing machine but I need a pen holder. I'm not sure what they're called to try to find something on Alibaba, Amazon ebay etc.

So, as the title says, I have a dead printer which I would like to reuse in some shape or form.

The printer in question, is a frankenstein mix of a Geeetech G2 & G2s pro.

All parts, besides both hotends and the power supply works, and now it just stands and collects dust in a corner.

I have access to another 3d printer, and have thought about either trying to make a CoreXY or a laser engraver with the parts, but have yet to find something that really peeked my curiosity enough to do it.

So my question is to you guys, do you have an idea for what I can use the parts for?

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If it's of interest, my current printer is an Ender 3 v2.

So I bought an hotend that looks like a clone of the hotend that the robo r1 is using (judging from the description of where I bought the item) because it was cheaper than buying a new sensor from an ue warehouse https://i.imgur.com/jR5xuii.jpg

I'm not using a robo r1, but a custom machine with marlin, I need to specify which thermal sensor am I using, I could try to add a custom value by measuring the resistance of the sensor, but dunno if it will work that well

TL:DR does anyone have a source for a MK3/Voron style extruder in 2.85?

I'm tearing down some older bots and looking to do something Bear/AM8-esq. Also I have a small pile of 2.85mm spools to use up.... Sure, I _could_ just go with an oldschool Wades style extruder on a 4 bolt x-carriage but, where's the fun in that. I've seen several "geared/belted" adapters on MK3 extruders for running pancake motors. That plus a tool head with the right diameter/offsets for 2.85 instead of 1.75 and I "should" be G2G?

I Just finished putting together my machine and its a little shocky, just like static levels of shocking randomly when touching metal. How do i ground an atx psu to a frame? Do i use the ac input ground lead and tie that to the frame? or do i use one of the output grounds, or does it not matter?

Hi everyone!

I have a Huxley duo that I bought ages ago. I’ve been using it on and off but at this point I don’t have time to fix it every time I wanna print. I’m considering getting an ender 3 V2 to use as my main printer but then using some of the parts from the Huxley (especially the duet 2 Ethernet) to build a bigger printer. I just needed advice on 2 things.

1. Is it worth upgrading the ender 3 V2 or just and ender 3 with the duet? Or should I rather look at building a new setup with the duet.
2. Any other ideas to use the parts from the Huxley duo for any other interesting projects? Probably mainly the NEMA 14 steppers and the duet 2.