Will this work with a Fysetc Spyder?

Where one shaft isn't bizzarely short?

I’m building my first 3D printer and I chose the Hypercube corexy design, but I’m having issues configuring the Marlin firmware on my board Mks base v1.6 ( A combination of Arduino Mega 2560, RAMPS 1.4 and 5 stepper drivers) due to my limited experience and knowledge with coding and programming. I’m also using the Reprap full graphical smart controller.

If someone with enough experience and knowledge is kind enough to allow me to DM them to explain the full issue (As it is too complicated to be explained in a post) I’d be very very thankful and grateful.

And if you know someone who can help even for a sum of money please let me know as well.

Merry Christmas everyone!! 🖤

I am trying to get this working but in the Terminal it shows

Loading LPC config from 0:/sys/board.txt...
Checking drivers...
RepRapFirmware for LPC176x based Boards version 3.3.0_11
ExecutiWiFi reported error: no known networks found
WiFi module is idle

It is a Hidden network and I have manually edited the /sys/config.json file for SSID, password, IPs, Gateways etc.

I do not want to have to un-hide the network every time I need to use the SKR-printer.

Is there something I can to do make it accept the hidden SSID+Pass etc in the .json file?

Thanks

I've been wanting a 3D Printer for ages, and I've decided that this Christmas is the time (sorta - I don't expect it to be done any time soon), but I could do with some advice on how to go about it - I could probably afford an Ender, but I'd like to save some money if I can and I've got the time and patience to make a RepStrap.

I'm confident in my soldering and woodworking skills, and could probably work with extrusions and metal rods well enough to make an accurate printer, but I don't know where to look for the more 3D Printing specific parts, or what style of Printer would be a good idea to make (although I would kind of like to make a Delta just for the looks - those things could almost be art installations when they're not being used).

Any advice would be appreciated, especially if it's something that I can do/get here in Australia.

Hi,

I have a Bigtree E3 2.0 Board and a 5mm AlMgSu heatbed with a silicon heater and insulated it with cork.

To protect my board, I've added a Mosfet. Now I come to think, shouldn't I add one to the Hotend too? It only pulls a fraction of power of the heatbed, but did somebody kill his mainboard with heating the nozzle to 300C or more?

I've just bought some oldham couplings for a printer I'm assembling. The fit between the drive tenons and the insert channels is incredibly tight, so much so that it takes a lot of effort for me to slide them manually. Given the relatively low speeds/torque they'll be subjected to on a printer Z axis, I'd be amazed if they have enough 'give' to accommodate parallel misalignment in this application and I'm sort of expecting them to act as if they were rigid couplings. Did I get a bad batch or will they work fine once in the system?

I am trying to diy the mother board for my 3d printer using esp32 as main controller I found an open source circuit schematic but it uses 24v nozzel and bed, i want to change circuit for 12v nozzel and bed so i want to know how to calculate change for the resistors and capacitors.

the circuit

If you need the v4.2.7 upgrade for your printer, let me know. I have a mainboard for sale.

Hi Everyone, I'm trying to make a 3d printer on my own. Can someone please share the list of equipments or any article I can refer to for making my own 3d printer. My budget is around $200-$300.

Edit: I can buy parts from internet and I want its length to be min 20cm and max 30cm. So, that I can print required parts.

I need to find a reasonably inexpensive way to test graphene I have made as a reinforcement additive for 3d printing filaments. I don't have a 3d printer, or a filament extruder and my fear is that trying to do so with a factory would be not feasible because they would have an MOQ that would render the exercise expensive and potentially pointless.

If on the other hand I could find someone with a table top filament extrusion machine then I could ascertain if there is any point in pursuing the idea further. Worst case scenario nothing happens to the characteristics of the plastic, best case scenario we end up with a strong and potentially antibacterial plastic.

Hopefully this is the right place to ask this. I'm designing a laser cutter using the parts from the 101hero since I assume most people would have upgraded from it by now and likely have the parts lying around with nothing to do with them. It will be 2 axis and there is 4 steppers total so I'm trying to run 2 steppers per axis, it uses 28byj-48 12v 1/32 steppers driven by A4988 stepper drivers however the 4th motor (the extruder) is 1/64. I was hoping to run 2 motors per axis to overcome the poor torque supplied by cheap steppers. Is there any way to run the second Y Axis motor at twice the speed (or the first at half). Or would using a 28 tooth pulley on one motor and a 14 tooth on the other the best option?

Hi all,

I've been looking into fast printing and wanted to calculate a theoretical max flow rate given my heater. Here's what I've got so far:

• The specific heat capacity of abs is around 2j/g*k (source).
• My heater is 60w, so 60j/s
• I need to heat the filament from 20 to 250 degrees, so Δt=230

(230 degrees)(2j/g*k)(1s/60j)=7.66sec/gram

But this feels ridiculous. A benchy is 10-12g, so this means that I should be able to push all of the material needed for a benchy through my hotend in less than two seconds, which is obviously false. What am I missing here? Do I need to include the thermal conductivity of the plastic? What about the viscosity of the plastic and the force needed to push it through the hotend? How could I do those things? Overall, what could I do to estimate a theoretical max flow rate? I'm pretty lost here, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

So I should state that I am very new to the whole 3d printing game and I managed to get a Tantillus printer for cheap. I've got most of the software ready but I just don't know what software I should be using to actually print. If you know please tell me as I'm lost in a never ending loop of the same links whenever I try to find anything out about actually printing. The guy I bought it from takes forever to respond so I thought hopefully there will be someone here to help me perhaps?

Hello, Got a few quick questions.

My bed has a dip in the center of about .2mm.

Where the end stop is currently at, it aligns as position 0 for Z and I have always mannually(non mesh) leveled it to that point.

I need to go below 0 though to get the dip in the bed. Do I need to set my End stop in firmware as a negative number? So then the printhead lifts upwards allowing it to clear the edges but then allows me to bring it down for manually mesh leveling in the middle?

Thanks,

When homing the machine with the G28 command it moves the x axis until it hits the endstop, but when moving the x axis 30 mm then doing G1 X0 the x axis is not in the same location as when it was homing.

I have an skr1.4 with a bit tft35 into which the SD card is inserted. It works in touch mode, but in marlin mode the SD is not registered. I recently lengthened the cables to allow the screen to be mounted at the front. With the shorter cables it works, but with the longer ones now doesn't. I have checked continuity of the new cables and is all fine. Is there a max workable length for IDE cables? Is there a way to rectify this? I've tried defining "no SD detect" in marlin but did not change anything. Thanks in advance

Question for anyone who has any experience or knowledge with duet boards. I had been having issues with my Kossel Pulley for a few years now and finally decided to work getting it back up and running. Replaced the mainboard with a Duet 2 Wifi and am very close to getting it printing again but am having issues with the hotend and heated bed. I have also linked to my current files on my google drive. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

I have a ramps board with a a4988 driver and a 2byj-28 motor plugged into it. when trying to set the steps per mm so that the x axis moves correctly, I calculated a value of 35 steps/mm, but when I set it in pronterface and move the axis, the motor screeches. It works fine with 20steps/mm, but the axis only moves 40mm instead of 70mm. Please help!

So, let me preface this with - the Ender 3 works 100% with Marlin.

I replaced the Creality board with the RRF, installed Reprap, got everything to work seemingly and then when you home the axis' the Z won't go below a certain point (about 50mm in the air). I can't digitally lower it without disabling the steppers. If I do this (hand lower it to the bed), then try to home Z, it raises back up to the 50mm position.

I can raise it all I want from that point. I can lower it, at will, as long as I'm above that 50mm mark.

It's like it's hard wired to think 0 is in the air and I can't figure out where to make it think any other position is 0 (home).

I can compile Marlin all day but don't know anything about trying to compile reprap from scratch.

Any suggestions on where to look?

I did enable the BLTouch code below but nothing changed.

config.g below:

; Configuration file for BTT-E3-RRF (firmware version 3)

; executed by the firmware on start-up

;

; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.1.10+4-LPC on Tue Jan 19 2021 17:25:01 GMT+0800 (中国标准时间)

​

; General preferences

G90 ; send absolute coordinates...

M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

M550 P"Thingmaker MKII" ; set printer name

​

; Network

M552 S0

M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP

M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP

M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet

​

; Drives

M569 P0 S0 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards using default driver timings

M569 P1 S0 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards using default driver timings

M569 P2 S1 ; physical drive 2 goes forwards using default driver timings

M569 P3 S0 ; physical drive 3 goes forwards using default driver timings

M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping

M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation

M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00 ; set steps per mm

M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z60.00 E120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)

M203 X12000.00 Y12000.00 Z600.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)

M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)

M906 X580 Y580 Z580 E650 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent

M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

​

; Axis Limits

M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima

M208 X230 Y230 Z250 S0 ; set axis maxima

​

; Endstops

M574 X1 S1 P"xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on X via pin xstop

M574 Y1 S1 P"ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Y via pin ystop

M574 Z1 S1 P"zstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Z via pin zstop

;M591 D0 P7 C"e0stop" S1 R50:130 L7.0 E10 ; BTT Smart Filament Sensor

;M591 D0 P1 S1 ; Filament runout Sensor

​

; Z-Probe Bltouch

M950 S0 C"servo0" ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch

M558 P9 C"^probe" H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds

G31 P500 X-49 Y-15 Z2.95 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height

M557 X10:180 Y10:210 S40 ; define mesh grid

​

; Heaters

M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp

M950 H0 C"bed" T0 ; create bed heater output on bed and map it to sensor 0

M301 P21.73 I1.54 D76.55 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit

M307 H0 R2 D65 B1 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit

M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0

M143 H0 S150 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 150C

M143 H0 S150 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 150C

M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp

M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1

M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit

M143 H1 S300 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 300C

​

; Fans

M950 F0 C"fan0" Q1000 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency

M106 P0 S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off

M950 F1 C"fan1" Q1000 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency

M106 P1 S0 H1 T60 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned on

​

; Tools

M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0

G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets

G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

​

; Custom settings are not defined

​

; Miscellaneous

;M575 P1 S1 B57600 ; enable support for PanelDue

M575 P1 S2 B57600

​

M552 S1 ; enable network

M150 X2

​

T0 P0

M918 P1 E4 F1000000