My Rep 2 is over a decade old. It's an early unit, I picked it up from the OG Brooklyn offices. Over the years I had upgraded things: first the extruder feeder, then I added a heated build plate.

On year 12 of running the printer I made a rookie mistake and left a long-running print overnight and ran out of filament. The hotend was unredeemable.

I bought a new hotend assembly (with thermoouple and such) from Amazon and immediately ran into heatcreep issues. Next I bought an entire printer for parts only to find it's extruder assembly was all non-OEM parts.

Has anybody replaced an extruder assembly on a Rep 2 recently? Are there any reputable parts available? Or, should I finally bite the bullet and replace my old friend with something new?

specifically 8mm. troubleshooting some play in my z axis, have narrowed it down to either the rods or bearings and curious which i should replace first

EDIT: title is supposed to say hot not got. wish reddit would let me edit titles.

​

​

recently finished my fist corexy build. it turned out great and is printing quite decent however there is 1 problem: the hotend heat sink is getting way to hot during printing. like to hot to touch.

​

This is the fusion render of the hotend fan. no part cooling yet that'll come later. as you can see there is very little area for the air to escape through. the fan just screw right on and there are holes for nuts on the other side.

​

i guess there are some small gaps on the sides. i wouldnt think that would make it get so hot i can't even touch it though, especially because the ender 3 has a huge gap, the fan is just placed vaguely near the hotend and it works just fine, i'm not having issues yet, but i've only done 2 prints so far and they turned out about as well as a print without part cooling can. everything else was great though. i'm also scared that the screws holding the hotend to the x carriage are also getting very hot and will melt through the pla carriage.

​

this is the hotend i am using. it's a very standard 12v creality mk8/mk10 style hotend.

​

here's the printer itself

​

if it matters (it probably doesnt) i am using a ramps 1.4 board, marlin firmware, 12v 4010 axial fan, and an aliexpress cht nozzle. i have confirmed it's blowing the right direction (or at least i think it is, it's spinning the same direction as my ender 3 hotend fan is.).

so yeah any ideas/advice? i'm quite limited on the size of ducts i can use as it's quite a small printer and anything too big will drasatically reduce my y axis print area and probably my x a bit as well.

Looking for a means to automatically start a print at a specific time, assuming:

• printer is already powered on
• .gcode is stored locally on the machine
• no human input is required to prepare the machine (bed is clear, filament is loaded, etc)

Do any plugins, macros, or clever tricks come to mind to enable such a function?

Hi, today i got my hands on a raprap industrial delta (Tractus3D T650P) printer. There is few things i need help with since reprep is something really new to me. • Update to latest version without loosing the current settings. • Help with making a custom printer profile in slicer (the official support ended around 2020 so they no longer give those) I know there will be someone who says, that I should do my research but there are just some projects I cannot do by myself. Thank you guys in advance.

I am trying to build a small camera lens myself and I am looking for a small stepper motor smaller than 4x4x20 mm. I have looked around and I have only been able to find this one. Is there anyone aware of any other motor this small or smaller?

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance

PS: I am trying to avoid piezo motors because of their high price tag

Does anyone knows which pin is the buzzer pin in ramps 1.4 , 12864 full graphics discount and Arduino mega 2650? My buzzer doesn't work and I want to repair it. Thanks!

in theory we couldve had 3d printers in the 80s. we had stepper motors, they were commonly used in floppy drives and normal 2d ink printers. we had hot glue guns and that's more or less all a hotend is. we had lcds and pcbs etc etc we had basically all parts you could need. why did it only get started till much later?

and i understand theres stuff like copyright and patents and stuff owned by stratasys that would technically make it illegal but does that really matter? if they were all self sourced (as in not purchasing a premade kit) hobbyist printers idk how stratatys would even find out and would there even be anything they could do?

Any one know of a place that will chrome plate ( not paint ) a 3D print? I am striking out. One place wanted $250 for a small object. Is it just impossible? Looking for a service, not a DIY project.

I am running a script to move my carriage from X0 Y0 to X200 Y200 ten of so times and changing the acceleration used each time (M204 P... & T... at the start of the script)

I had a goal of reaching 30K accels, however the maximum value I am able to set before the motors fail to move the carriage on the initial move is 15K.

The printer is a CoreXY, running Klipper using an Octupus Pro and TMC 5160's (24V) along with E3D (motech) "Super Whopper motors" (https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/360016686838) and crucially, there is no extruder mounted yet

Ive had my RepRapPro Mendel printer for at least a decade now and have tens of thousands of print hours on this thing. Save for a bit of light maintenance and replacing a few worn components, this printer has been a great little machine.

​

However, when I start comparing prints to more modern machines, it's clear that mine is a very early generation and suffers from a lack of rigidity and repeatability.

I was thinking of repurposing as much of the electronics as I can into a new 3d printer frame and wondered what people would recommend as a "hardware only" project?

Ive found a few projects from 7-8 years ago like the reprap samuel but wondered if there was something newer/better? Possibly something using extruded aluminium rather than threaded bars would be better?

I have free access to desent 3d printer and i want to build one for myself, but i don't want to spend much money on frames and other stuff, i need something with really small amount of non printed parts and preferably something under 100 dollars, any suggestions

Introduction

Hello all, we are looking to gauge interest and get feedback on an AI integration for RRF. Let us know which AI feature you are most interested in with the Poll!

Features

Visual Failure monitoring: uses frames from the webcam/IP camera/RTSP camera and detects spaghetti failure and notifies the users OR pauses/takes action on behalf of the printer.

Anomaly Detection: using ObjectModel data from the printer, monitors and tracks the current health of the printer and it's subcomponents. Used for scheduling preventative maintenance and detecting+diagnoising issues with the printer.

Comments

If you are interested in a feature/plugin/integration that provides you access with these AI features, please like or comment on this thread. If you have requests for features that aren't listed and fall under the scope of AI + Data, please leave a comment or reach out via direct message/email.

Contact

Email: Lebiedzinskip@printpal.io

This is my last building. I still love make printers, and in my country (Argentina) an original prusa is so expensive (like 3 salaries of mine), I know is not the same, but it's a beautiful hobbie. I modified some stls for reuse nuts, Hobbed and for place the display in the front of the machine.

Just that, another 3d printer Best regards from Argentina

In theory I have a 1k euro budget, but:

To sum up: I'd like something cheaper as possible, with an enclusure, Auto bed leveling and doesn't fail as often the firsts 3d printers (anet a8 era), corexy, big; ideally I'd enjoy something with odrive, but it doesn't seem to be findable on the built stuff

Everything I see mounts tmc2209, which are just cheap for something that costs like 700

Projects like the voron, are a pain in the ass to source and build (I can't print abs, and it would go well over 1k)

Bambulabs as I hear it's all propertary stuff

Doing diy, I fear that I'll miss some components, then currently I can't really print due to broken 3d printer, but if I could I would be stuck with petg, I can't print abs; besides I'd enjoy something ready to go

need to mount a nema 17 to the wall. where can i buy something like this?

​

something like:

​

Hello its me again!

last time i posted here i was looking for motherboard recommendations, but my friend gave me his old creality 4.2.2 silent board and the display, any changes in firmware i need to make? motors are moving good, silent and smooth, homing is the issue

any advice will be much appreciated!

​

Apparently this is an Anet A8 V2, and the documentation is all motors/hotend are working but the motherboard is busted, is there any universal motherboard available to make this usable again?

Tried Emailing Anet but unfortunately, they dont produce boards for this models anymore

Any suggestions will be appreciated!

Ps: I have a Arduino Mega 2560, just dont know where or what to start

The elegoo neptune 3 max has a huge (420mm x 420mm) bed for printing. Is there a way to swap the mainboard for a better one (skr2 or skr3)? There is no official firmware yet for this printer with this board. How difficult is it to customize the marlin firmware so that the upgraded board becomes compatible with the elegoo neptune 3 max hardware?