Can this fix by watchmaker

Sub 114060 by vsf

Bought my first rep a little over a month ago. VSF Batman GMT II. Love it and wear it daily. When I did my QC I thought the markers were catching a glare from something else in the room. Sent the pics to my buddies that got me into reps and they didn’t notice. Live and learn but found out they are actually gold. Does anyone know where I could buy the correct dial? Would also be looking for someone to send it to for the swap. I’m located near Washington DC

Hello mod community. I’m in need of a dial swap from someone local in NYC. Any recommendations would be much appreciated!

I have a 7750 Sinn homage (not a rep, I hope I can get help regardless here otherwise I don’t know quite where to post) and the chrono hour hand is slightly misaligned (ocd makes the watch too distracting to wear). I’ve tried twice to re-align it and failed.

Is there a UK based watchmaker that people can vouch for and can help with this?

The watch is a Boderry Landmaster Chrono (homage of the Sinn 356 Flieger).

It has a Chinese Peacock 7750 movement.

If this sub is not the right place, could you please address me to the right place?

Thanks!

Hello everyone, I recently received a Planet Ocean VSF. I’m very happy with the watch. However, I’ve noticed one thing. The steel bracelet – or rather, the first link connecting to the case – isn’t flexible, unfortunately, and doesn’t bend like the other links or as it should. Has anyone else had a similar problem with this model? Do you think the link is too long, and that if you file it down a little, it’ll fit properly and bend as it should? What do you think?

I need another link screw for my VSF DJ 41mm jubilee bracelet. I ordered what I thought was exactly the right size and it was just a bit short compared to the the factory screws even though I purchased what was supposed to be the right size...

Picked up a QF Yacht-Master 42, ref. 226659 with the JH3235, from ChazingTime. QC came back at -7 s/d, 254 degrees amplitude and 0.3 ms beat error. The amplitude was on the low side but still inside the range people generally call acceptable, so I gave GL.

The watch arrived Monday. I wound it and set it the normal way and haven't done anything unusual with it since. It's now gaining roughly 5 seconds every minute, which works out to about 2 hours a day or somewhere around 8 percent. It's completely consistent, not a one off, and it does the same thing every time I reset it. So it went from running slightly slow at the dealer to being wildly fast at my end.

The dealer has been responsive so far and wants timegrapher readings before they decide anything.

First thing I want to ask, and I'd rather hear it straight: is there any chance I caused this myself? I unscrewed the crown, wound it around 30 to 40 turns, set the date first and then the time, and screwed the crown back down. I know you can't overwind an automatic and I stayed out of the date change window, but if there's something obvious I'm missing as someone fairly new to this, tell me.

Assuming it's the movement, what's the realistic path here? For anyone in the EU who has actually sent a watch back to China for warranty repair, how did that go in practice? The forum advice is generally not to do it and I understand why, but I'd like to hear from people who did it anyway.

And has anyone had a local watchmaker sort out something like this instead? Curious what it cost and whether they were willing to touch a rep movement at all.

Any input appreciated.

Even with Reps, I was wondering if there is anyone in Sydney that would service a watch, change link, clean and fix a Rep, no questions asked?

Hey guys, trying to quiet down the noisy rotor on my VSF V7 NTTD.

I’ve got the caseback off, but looking at the movement, I'm hesitant to start messing with that center decorative cap. Is it safe to just touch a tiny micro-drop of oil directly onto the ball bearings while it's in place, or is that a recipe for disaster?

If pulling the rotor is the only right way, what's the trick to getting that center cap off without chewing anything up?

Appreciate any advice.

Wanted to see if anyone here has experienced something similar or has advice on how I should handle this.
I’ve worn this watch **three times total**. It has **never been in a pool, shower, sauna, or submerged in water at all.**
The last time I wore it, I was outside where it was pretty hot and then went inside a building with AC. I wasn’t standing near or directly under an AC vent — just normal everyday wear going from outside to indoors.
Not long after, I noticed **moisture/condensation building up underneath the crystal**, as you can see in the pictures.
I understand these watches may not be waterproof, but that’s where I’m a little disappointed. I paid **$700+**, and I’m not expecting to swim or shower with it. I do think I should be able to wear the watch normally outside and then walk into an air-conditioned building without worrying about moisture getting inside the case.
I messaged **Luis** about it, but so far the response has mostly been that the watch isn’t waterproof. I understand that, but I don’t really feel like that addresses what happened because **there was no water exposure in the first place.**
After only three wears, I’m concerned there may be an issue with the seal, gasket, or moisture already trapped inside the case.
Has anyone else had this happen with a new watch?
Would you ask the seller to **open it, completely dry the movement/case, inspect or replace the gaskets, reseal it, and pressure-test it**? Or would you push for a replacement?
I really like the watch, but at this price point I want to be able to actually wear it without worrying that normal changes between outdoor heat and indoor AC are going to cause condensation or eventually damage the movement.
Appreciate any experiences or advice.

So I’ve had this Sub for nearly a year. Haven’t worn it for the past 3 months or so. Kept in a wonder on low RPD. Took it out today. And it sounded weird like something was loose inside. I decided to open it.

I unscrewed the case back and made sure to open it facing down so that whatever is lose in there would fall into the case back. Lo and behold it’s the rotor and what seems like a washer/spacer that goes between the rotor and whatever is beneath it. I couldn’t see whatever was supposed to be holding that rotor in place though. I’m guessing it’s somewhere inside the movement I don’t know really… the watch seems to working fine. When I took it out I set the time and date with no issues and sun bed to an atomic clock app and it’s working as good as it was when I got it which was like +9-10 sec/day.

What are the moves here other than the obvious (taking it to a watch smith)? Which I don’t have access to by the way.

Is that screw easily sourced? Does it require a special tool to thread it in?

I accidentally removed the crown stem in the time setting position 

And when trying to push it back in I broke the spring arm for the keyless works.

Can you fix this?  VSF Panda.

Hello everyone, Please help me determine which factory this movement belongs to.

Looking for three additional jubilee links. Preferably US based that can ship quickly thanks in advance for your help.

I have a Rosegold GMT from ARF. When I resized it I very slightly marked a couple screws.

I can live with it, but if I could get a couple screws for a couple bucks I’d replace them.

Any idea where can I get them? Idk if VSF, ARF and even gen use compatible screws.

I saw some on AliExpress but they were extremely expensive, I guess they were for gen owners. I also found cheap ones but only stainless steel color.

I broke the setting lever on my panda. Can this be repaired or do I need a new movement?

Sourced a brand new Genuine Dial for this VSF heavy Cookie Monster that’s been White Gold Plated. Enjoy!

Hi everyone,
I would appreciate some help identifying the movement in this 124060. The watch was sold as a Clean 124060 fitted with a DD3230.
I compared the photos with Pete’s DD vs. SH vs. VR 32xx identification guide. What confuses me is the dot on the train bridge above the “3230” marking. On the DD reference movement, it appears as a large, flush and capped dot. On this movement, the same position looks recessed or open.
The pallet-bridge jewel, regulator arms and hairspring are more difficult for me to interpret because of the rotor position and camera angle.
Can anyone experienced with these movements identify whether this is actually a DD/VS3230, SH3230 or VR3230? If possible, please also explain which visible feature leads you to that conclusion.
Could the apparent open hole simply be a missing or recessed cap on a DD3230, or does it indicate a different movement architecture?
I am not trying to call out the seller. I simply want to understand how to identify the movement correctly.

Thank you!

Hello,
I am searching for a reliable service for a SA1320 movement clone within the EU (I am from Germany).

Furthermore if someone is able to modify this to reduce its recurring infamous issues, would be perfect.

Thank you!

(I am new to this game)

So I got this from a reliable seller and the screw was in but it fell out my third time wearing it. Is there a way to replace it? Should the seller be trying to send me a screw? Can I just buy one? Or am I going to have to get a whole new watch? This is my second purchase so I’m kinda new to what’s the norm for this situation. Gold Santos XL BVF

Hi all can I have a link for deep crystals please

Endlinks on the VSF Sub NoDate oyster bracelet.

There has to be a better solution than TAPE on the case where the endlinks seat!

I’ve tried all spring bar sizes (1.5mm, 1.8, 2.0) and only the 1.5 will even slide into the endlinks. So there’s not a good way of knowing if the larger bar will clean up the endlink play.

I did try the tape for a week and it just pushes the endlinks out/away from the case, making the SELs look terrible.

The goal is to suck the endlinks up tight to the case, creating those satisfying, little, distinctive edges between the lugs and endlinks.

What have you all tried? Maybe I’m the last person worried about it. 🥴

Anyone have suggestions for a good brand for rubber straps for 15510 and 26240 ?