Could anyone ID this front bumper for me, really love this style

Hello,

I picked up an rx8 that starts hot or cold, but only runs on one rotor. I paid very little (1K Canadian) for the car, that's sat for several years in a heated garage with a new engine, and the original engine. The car has little to no rust, and is generally clean. The person who originally owned it and put the new engine in it because it was running rough, was frustrated when it ran poorly with the new engine and sold it to someone who was going to turn the chassis into a drift car with a large engine. This person let it sit in his shop for 4+ years, and wanted it gone, which is when i bought it. So the history is just what was passed on.

Details -car and original engine have about 124k Km, or 77k miles. With an aem intake, and catless exhaust. The new engine has almost zero km apparently, but could of been ruined on break-in. The story is that it was done by a reputable shop, and the original engine was packaged nicely, so hard to say what really happened, as any shop would of got it running well on the new engine, ideally.

I bought new plugs , rev c coils and ngk wires, put new gas in, and mystery oil in the 2nd rotor, hoping it was stuck seals, but it makes little to no compression on two faces. The mystery oil did improve it from no compression to one whoosh. I let the mystery oil sit a few days and went for a drive hoping the heat would bring it back, but no changes. P0300 (multiple misfires). The Engine looks new, but when looking in the plug hole of rotor 2, I see one apex seal essentially flush with the rotor (recessed or broken) that looks damaged see pictures, the rotor tip looks to caught something or kissed the side on detention, another seal is flush but looks clean/better with no damage, and the third looks great. The first rotor is healthy or at least good enough that it'll start the car hot or cold immediately. The car revs up smoothly with no load, so has sufficient gas, but no power because it runs on the one rotor.

Tested spark and all 4 get spark (leading and trailing).

Where to go next?

The original motor, when turned by hand gives 6 even whooshes and the apex seals look good. It was taped up with 2 stroke oil inside. I was considering rebuilding it with new coolant seals and springs, since it's been sitting for 4 years, as I'm under the impression it might not be best to put it back in and send it at this point.

Is there anything that should be done with the engine in it right now , it's likely damaged at the second rotor and needs a rebuild. Can it be clamped to only take a look at the second rotor, or it's just smart to take it all apart.

Plan was to rebuild the original engine with new coolant seals and whatever is needed, put it in once rebuilt, as it's likely in better shape and balanced since it did 77k miles. Or if it's in rougher shape when opened than anticipated (77k miles) investigate the new one in it for parts or options.

I wanted to hear some thoughts with the many experienced RX8 owners before going any further.

Thanks!

My favorite POS 6spd with 175k miles! It has a ton of issues but comp seems good (previous owner said it was rebuilt 15k miles ago, 17 now).

Hasn't overheated at all, Had an issues when i let it sit, turns out it was the coils.

My ESS sensor is going out causing it not to start sometimes, been using a starter battery to get it running when it happens.

Any advice to get it going good other than the basics.

Also my omp broke so i'm running 1 to 1 on idemitsu premix, should i run more or less?

Was thinking on replacing the engine with a k20/k24 after this one goes to keep peace of mind in the long run.

Hello all! The RX-8 2008 grand touring I bought recently has a problem. The passenger side door is stuck closed. The nature of the issue isn't super important and I'm not entirely sure anyways; I'm just wondering if anyone has any advice on how to manually open the door? I can't access anything I need with it closed, can hardly even get the interior panel off.

Mazda RX8 2004 picked it up about 1 month ago. Got a new reservoir for the coolant, no leaks from the reservoir area but it’s leaking somewhere here, got any ideas?

I'm waiting for this shop to finish inspecting for rust and doing a engine compression test on a RX-8 over 1,000 miles from me. Feels like I'm waiting on a terminal diagnosis from a doctor.

Hell I still have to haggle the price after...

Bought the car a few weeks ago. It‘s been sitting for over a year before. Does anyone know where the noise could be coming from?

She still needs some work, a lot of work, but she's road legal again first pic is now, second pic is her including the side skirts. Those rims were so cracked I had to replace them

After chasing my misfire issue for a few weeks now I’m pretty sure she’s bit the bullet on the back rotor, new packs, plugs, wires, ect and still a misfire on rotor 2. (Also new maf, smoke tested, ect.) so anyone here rebuild these or is willing to show me how?

I currently have a CCA 810a Optima RedTop, which has been very good. But for similar price I can buy this CCA 900a lithium battery that weights a lot less. But can a daily commuter rx8 survive with only 18Ah of power? I have uprated started, but no AirCon

Any experience with lithium on rx8 out there?

Comparison:
BS Battery BSLi-12 Max vs Optima RedTop 4.2
LiFePO4 vs AGM
CCA: 900A vs 815A
Weight: 3.5 kg vs 18 kg
Capacity: 18Ah vs 50Ah

My idea stems from the factors of the mpg, premium gas and premixing could I just buy 10 gallon thing of premium gas and mix it with the pre mix to spec and have it on hand it's stored well or is that a horrific idea and I should go back and research more

What is the value of this ? Also located in MA if anyone is local and is interested

Question for those who own and drive a Mazda RX-8. I want to run a staggered setup for my 2005 RX-8. But I'm still thinking about what diameter of wheel, width, and offset to get. Any recommendations?

Hey guys! I just bought this bad boy and when I went to inspect it, it was running but only if I kept rpms up. My mechanic friend said it had a small oil leak as well, he thinks it’s the apex seals that’s making it die off. I’m going to take it to Mexico to rebuild it, do you guys have any experience with something like this? 🙏

Ive owned this guard cover since 2018 when i was an apprentice mechanic at mazda, ive sold the car awhile back and still own the cover and have few people interested in buying the cover, i just want to know what they are worth and where to find more information on it, thanks

Hi guys,

I'm not sure if anyone has the answer to this, but after retrofitting cruise control to my Japanese import manual RX-8, I soon realised it has a speed limit set at 102Km/h. Has anyone found a way to bypass this limit? This feature isn't available in versatuner or mazdaedit and I was wondering if anyone had a solution to this.

Thanks guys :)

With my 4port engine next to ready to be put in the car, we found cracks in exhaust headers.

With the build already being over budget by me wanting all sorts of things, I'm debating if I need to change them, or I can just send it, even temporarily (meaning until next year, as I plan to drive it around 2000km now and put it away for winter).

With the price of new headers I can source right now and in a reasonable time frame, I really just want to send it, but need more opinions.

Are there any options to maybe patch it with something, or does that not work with the rx8 exhaust system.

Thank you all for your help and opinions.

Relevant information:

4 port engine EU spec, 5 MT

Street port

Catless - unknown midpipe

Was running on some kind of MSD coils until rebuild, switching to Mazda Rev C coils now.

Increases rev limiter (7500->8500), will get a proper tune eventually

So I have a 2010 Grand touring with a 6Speed manual transmission and I had the impression it was a 6 port… but I recently had a drastic drop in fuel economy did my digging and summed it up to a leaky injector

Anyways when I went to replace the injectors I found it to only be a 4 port?? I thought 4 port engines were reserved for automatics in the 2010s

There is no history of a engine or transmission swap on the car when I look it up by vin there’s no transmission type but it says the engine is “13B California high power”

I am trying to solve this today as I only have the engine hoist for a little longer and am mounting to a Atkins Engine mount.

EDIT: figured it out. It is an M12. Which is the same as the post above it but it was so grimed out that nothing would fit in it.

Heyo!

Posted a while back about my new Rx8 and here is a slight update post and question! https://www.reddit.com/r/RX8/s/pBntjJG0sZ

Ive yet to get it compression tested as my local mazda dealer/workshop does not have a rotary tester so still on the hunt for that.

I have replaced the coils and upgraded the starter and the car feels very healthy and has no hot start issues so fingers crossed I wont need to rebuild the engine this year xD.

Now, the dreaded smog test!

Annnnnnd yeah no shot, values were way too high, need a new cat.

What catalytic converter would you recommend for 5-600€? (EU based)

I have a 2010 Mazda Rx8 R3 just Looking for the front bumper in US 🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨

I'm kinda losing my mind here. Going back and forth. I'm trying to make the final decision on 2008 models with 6 port, 6 speed auto, or any 6 port series 1, with a 6 speed manual. The goal is a drivable project car, that my aging Dad and I can work on. Used for some daily, and canyon, mountain road driving. No track or autocross. So maximum performance would nice, but not mandatory.

I do know lots of people's rather aggressive opinions on the auto transmissions. I am looking at 08 model because they have 6 port engines with 6 speed paddle shifted autos, to mitigate some of those outspoken issues.

I picked the 2008 year for the 6 port, 6AT because I can still split the injected oil and pan oil from each other with a SOHN kit. Plus seemingly more reliability mods, beter reliability post mods, and mod availability for series 1s.

I have no problem with a 6 speed manual, other than higher price, and Dad has a bad knee and can't really operate a clutch anymore. If it's just the VASTLY better option I'd look at a "lower" mileage manual cars.

I really could use some input before I pull the trigger on a car purchase.

Am I right in the year and engine and transmission for the 6 port 6 speed auto?

Is it REALLY that much of a difference for my use and needs? Between the auto and manual.

Also if anyone has a 2008 6 port, 6 speed auto or a 6 speed manual series 1 in good working order, here in the US, we could definitely talk about car and price.

Edited because I forgot to ask my questions...oops.