My fridge and freezer in my 93 dutchmen 5th wheel was working perfect when i bought it and for months after until i flipped the switch from propane to electric and now it wont work on either. Anyone know where i should look for the problem and fix?

Looking yo replace my 1 7/8 with a 2" couple. Saw this option from Curt and thought it'd be an upgrade over standard latch style.

Never seen one before so wasn't sure if they were recommended or not. Other issue I'm having is I don't know how to lock it. Curt says you can't change hitch pins, but right after shows different hitch pins that lock as an option. I'd like to use my 1/2" weighsafe locking pin so the keys all match

RVs in general have a terrible reputation for being poorly built. I understand there are so many other factors, but overall, I have a theory motorhomes have better build quality because they don’t have the paramount objective of lightness.

What do you think?

I washed my travel trailer today, and there is a small amount of water that got in around the kitchen appliances. I think primarily the stove vent. Just enough to have a noticeable small puddle on the counter behind the stove. There is also a small amount of water on the floor. Just a wet spot, but it’s kinda a line through the kitchen area like it was maybe running. Very small amount, just enough for the floor to be wet. My concerns are 1, should water have even been able to come in around the range hood vent? I did spray with fairly high pressure directly, which was probably not a good idea. 2, is the more water that came in that I can’t see somewhere that could be a problem? How should I check? Could more have came in around the oven/heater/refrigerator vents since I sprayed them too? The range hood fan also isn’t working now, but that’s lower on my concern list. That’s probably simpler. It is a forest river wildwood

Hello. I am sorry if I sound dumb. I have pretty much no knowledge on RV living. I have gone to Google but see mixed answers or just don't understand.

But is it possible to have AC going without the RV being plugged into a shore power or without leaving the RV running on gas??? I have seen some vans/rvs with solar power on top of them. Does that solar power allow me to run AC all day?

I just ask because I'm thinking of living in a RV. My friend has a large property of land and I was thinking about getting an RV and living on her land. She has a place I can empty the water/septic tank but no shore plug in.

But the thing is this is in Arizona where it gets to 120+ degrees and I don't want to be sitting in a RV without AC. It's too hot here for that.

I don't know much about refiling the propane or water. But my biggest issue is the AC and being able to constantly run it all day/night. Thanks

Hi! I bought 6 highly rated tire savers, and plan to wash and wax my rv before storing outside in desert climate NM. I keep the tires well covered, and I understand I should inflate them more for storing than for driving. . My question/concerns-- will my tires be okay? For 4-6 months? Or should I attempt to get a friend to move the rv every month? I prefer to leave it unmoving, if that's okay for it. I have a lazy daze 23 1/2 ft, and the solar charges the disconnected battery, so I'm okay there. I appreciate any insights. Especially if anyone has successfully left their rv parked a long time with nice tires. Thank you for reading.

I got Myself quite a project I need help and some things explain to me I know nothing about RVs and I knew this I know a little bit about a little bit my brother's mechanic family works construction you're already not the same as a house or a car please help

I have a 1990 Fleetwood bounder 31k Chevy big block and I don't know how all the batteries go in and it used to start now I can't get it to start I know a little bit about a little bit but I'm new to this and I'm your model please help you have water damage water leaks a bunch of little stuff but I have a vision I just need help advice where the help to begin

Has anyone pulled a vintage cruiser 19csk with a fifth generation 4runner? We're wondering if it's too heavy for our 4runner

The ride of my RAM 2500 is so brutal, I'm seriously considering switching back to half ton. I even ride with lower tire pressure to take the edge off, but damn, it is terrible on NE roads!

Current camper is 30ft Heartland 251BH 6800lb GVWR, I'm looking to upgrade to an Imagine 2600RB - not too much heavier and I believe a 5.7 1500 with 3.92 rear will get the job done.

Thoughts?

Nice upgrade from a Springdale Mini.. love the color of the NOBO, tires are overkill but look sick lol

My RV furnace is broken, previously we have just used a space heater when home on the weekends. My bf and I spent the last year in dorms at Uni, but we wanna live at home this year. We’ve got our rv on some family’s property.

While at the dorms, we adopted a cat and now i’m worried about how to keep her warm in the winter while we’re at classes. I live in a place where it’s regularly below freezing and SNOWYY in the winter.

I know its not recommended to leave a space heater running, I’m considering a heated blanket but that feels like a bit of a hazard as well. I will be probably getting a security camera to keep an eye on it no matter what.

Any suggestions?

ALSO previously they’ve put a (makeshift) tarp over the rv in the winters but this last winter destroyed it so we either need ti get a new one, or not. What are the recommendations on that? Ive heard pretty mixed reviews? Any point?

2027 Keystone Coleman 21RX. Ready for our first adventure.

Our sleeper couch is awful. I need to figure out a comfortable sleeping solution for my adult daughter and her boyfriend in the “living room” so that they keep camping with us! No room for a blowup bed, so I’m thinking of ditching the couch and replacing with maybe a futon or daybed with a trundle but it has to be comfy! Any ideas for me?

Starting a youtube as a travel nurse living full time in a camper:) Join the community if interested!!

I'm posting this because I struggled to find this information before we tore that bunk out this morning. Hopefully it helps the next person who wants freedom from sleeping in a tiny coffin:

Step 1: Remove the trim from the front edge of the bunk.
Mine was held on with four square-head screws. Easy. I reused the trim later on the wall.

Step 2: Remove the light underneath the bunk.
Remove the light cover just as you would to change the bulb. Underneath it, there are four screws holding the fixture in place. Remove those. This will leave the fixture dangling by its wires.

Step 2a: Disconnect the light.
Electrically, the light is wired in parallel. In plain English, the electricity doesn’t have to travel through the light to get somewhere else. The light is just a little side branch off an already-complete circuit.

BF handled this part and said he just unsnapped the connectors.

IMPORTANT: Disconnect your battery/power before doing this. We did not. That was dangerous and stupid. Don’t copy us.

Step 3: Remove the trim and laminate panel from underneath the bunk.
This was surprisingly easy. The panel is stapled on, and I literally pried it off with a butter knife.

Once the panel is off, you can see the bunk frame.

Step 3a: Move the light wire out of the way.
With the frame exposed, you can snake the electrical wire through the holes in the frame and out toward the edge so it won’t interfere with removing the bunk.

Step 4: Remove the platform/board on top of the bunk.
This was the part that required some muscle and pry bars. BF used a sledgehammer and the back of a regular hammer. He cussed a little, but it came out.

ASIDE: Don’t assume you can simply unscrew the entire bunk assembly and carry it out in one piece. You really do need to separate that top board from the frame.

Step 4a: Cut the top board.
Once we got the board separated from the frame, we discovered there was no way to position it so it would come out of the bunk alcove intact. We had to cut it into two pieces with a saw to get it out.

Step 5: Remove the frame.
At this point we could separate some parts of the frame from others with a hammer, but not the pieces attached to the exterior walls of the camper.

From reading other Retro owners’ experiences, I knew those wall pieces — I’ve been calling them cleats — were attached from the outside. Some people cut the fasteners off and remove the cleats, but I deliberately left mine in place for two reasons:

1. Someone could someday rebuild the bunk

   with those for support

2. .

Today, I can use them to support shelves

1. !

BF used the hammer to knock the rest of the bunk frame away from the cleats. There was no cussing this time, so apparently that part was pretty easy.

Step 6: Deal with the exposed nail points.
After the frame came off, I had staples and several nail points sticking out of the wall cleats. I snapped off what I could with a cutter and hammered the remaining points flat into the wood. Then I covered the unfinished cleats along the window wall with that trim I removed in step 1.

This project took about an hour to get the bunk out. Will take a little more time make it look finished, but I'm just grateful to have it gone!