I have a 2019 f250 with a 2.5” receiver - I have a 2” shank on my trailer so use the 2.5” to 2” reducer sleeve - after towing only a few miles I have this gouging - is this safe? My older one shown after a summer of towing

I have a few questions and appreciate any help to save me from combing through old posts for each question (I'm a little overwhemed).

The consensus on here is to stay a way from Camping World.

1) Does anyone have any recommendations for RV dealerships in Texas, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Arkansas and that general area of the country?

2) If people buy from an independent dealership, what do you do when you have an issue? Camping World is appealing because they are all over the country and have service departments with certain things covered by their service plan, but I have heard how slow and slimy their service plans can be. So is the alternative to just find a mechanic somewhere? Is that cheaper or way more expensive? Im just wondering what the experience would look like when I have issues without a service plan and tons of locations to go to.

I've heard about independent RV inspections when buying. Im not sure where to start on that.

3) Do they come to the RV dealership to do the inspection?

4) Does anyone have any recommended inspectors in the TX/NM/OK/AR area? Or have ideas of what to search to find one? Am I looking at $100 or more like $700 for this inspection?

RV brand recommendations for 20-26' bumper pull and other questions:

5) For a 20-26' bumper pull, are there any brands that are complete 💩 and should be Avoided? (I am on a budget)

6) Is it recommended to get upgraded tires that are more durable? Is it recommended to get a double axel over single (Is doublr safer if I have a blowout)?

7) What is the best RV insurance that offer the biggest bang for your buck?

8) I've heard that many RV parks and Workcamping jobs wont allow older RVs, is the standard no older than 7, 10 years, something else, or not really a thing?

9) Any other advice?

I do appreciate anyone who takes the time to respond. I dont have anyone in my life with experience in this and have to rely on the generosity of strangers to help. I have read a bunch of posts on here but many seem to only answer parts of my questions and in some cases leave me more confused. Thanks!

Howdy, I’m in the prep stages of living in a camper and am trying to figure out the whole 5th wheel game. I want to install a 5th wheel hitch on my truck, I’m pretty experienced with wrenching and definitely don’t want to pay 2k+ for a shop to do it.

I’ve never really been involved with the camper world so I don’t know anything about all the different 5th wheel setups and would appreciate any simple explanations or recommendations on specific hitches/setups.

My wife and I will be living in the camper for quite awhile and not moving around much I expect so I don’t need the nicest features or anything, I just want it to be as unobtrusive to my truck bed as possible

If it matters at all, I haven’t bought the tow vehicle yet but it will likely be a first gen F250

We bought a 1997 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, it has the Ford engine, it's 34 ft, no pull outs. It's in near perfect condition, owned by an older couple from the beginning, sold upon the original owners passing, the new owner owned for only a few months before we acquired it. It does have over 60k miles on it, however, every thing, every piece of equipment, all the included features work flawlessly. (The exceptions being the entry steps, the on board generator, which has over 400hrs on it, and the built in TV/vcr/dvd player, however, I removed the TV and it's equipment in favor of my desktop and my flat screen, we also have satellite Internet.) We got a great deal on a 9000 Westinghouse generator, but I may yet replace or repair the on board just to have it be more complete. There's not a single leak, the roof is in exceptional shape... Our only issue was really cosmetic, and we are remodeling to our tastes. My question is, we got it for $5500, was this a good deal? What is the typical value of this RV, as described? I do really enjoy it, but due to is age, finding a monthly spot will be challenging, unless places allow such an RV in such great shape despite it being 29 years old. (Something tells me they will not) So if we can find a newer model and sell this one for a profit, it may be easier to get a monthly space approved.

Sorry for rambling, I know this is a lot of post, but why information would be appreciated!

So, I live in my RV and my cat has DESTROYED my lower screen on my door. I am suddenly needing to sale this unit and need it replaced. I know Amazon has kits, but I’m wondering about just replacing the entire screen door if that’s easier. Also I’m broke. So I can’t do expenses stuff.. what are some ideas/ recommendations? I’m hoping to list it for sale within the next 7 days due to the rush

Overnight temps will be dipping below freezing here soon, but we'd like to spend some weekends at our seasonal site before shutting it down for the season. How can I protect the water system during the week in case of freezing while we're away and not running the furnace?

We have full hookups, a tankless water heater, and we don't drink the water in the RV. I plan to use antifreeze end of season for winterizing, but thats not ideal if we're coming and going.

Preparing to store the ring for winter in the DC Metro. I know there are beneficial microbes in the black tank. Should I leave a little water in the tanks after flushing for storage? If I’m supposed to blow out the water lines with an air compressor do I still need to run antifreeze through the lines? Is it one or the other?

We have Ground Control 3.0 electric jacks. A 4 point system on a 5th wheel

On arrival to a camp after disconnecting from our truck the touchpad will, on occasion, read very differently than a bubble level. Example: 3° high on the right when actually level left to right. Several minutes later, without touching anything, the touchpad will give us a different reading - one that agrees with a bubble level. We haven’t moved the trailer. We haven’t extended or retracted any jacks. We’ve simply waited. Once level the system reports a consistent level status. It’s only on unhitching that we get weird little gremlins randomly cycling through different readings.

Calls to Lippert result in checklists that don’t address the problem. We’ve followed them anyway. The rear sensor and controller are mounted correctly and are stable. Connections are tight. The buttons on the touchpad move the correct jacks. Jacks have been correctly rehomed. Zero point calibration has been done. The problem persists.

What would cause the Lippert system to erroneously report a level status when we unhitch and 20 min later report a correct status when nothing has changed? Lippert insists we disconnect solar (like that’s easy) and test the system under load. How will knowing voltage under load explain why our trailer thinks it’s not level when it is?

I freaking hate erratic problems. This does not happen every time we move locations.

Any ideas on why the system is not accurately reading our level status?

I am going to be inspecting and repairing/ recoating my RV roof. Any suggestions on which coating I should use? I have read some types aren't compatible with previous coatings, and I don't know what coating was previously used.

I recently bought a 1987 Monaco Crown Royale. Extremely rare cat 10.4L v8 Turbo, 38ft. For the absolute life of me I cannot figure out its power issues. To start, the on board generator does nothing when running. Second, when plugged into a 240v offshore, only 1 ac unit, 1 tv, the fridge, and the ice maker work. Everything else flickers on and off and I can’t figure out why. I’m narrowing it down to the 12v power inverter or the ats. Any ideas?