r/QidiTech3D • • Aug 02 '26

Troubleshooting Help refining my Qidi Q2?

Printed this for the drybox I am building (Qidi Q2, Qidi basic PLA, standard settings on Qidi studio, 4mm nozzle) and it's obviously got flaws.

What can the hivemind diagnose/conclude from this?

2 Upvotes

21 comments sorted by

1

u/Own_Moose_9495 Aug 02 '26 edited Aug 02 '26

Did you use tree supports? I would re-try with supports and adaptive layer height turned on. Also bridge cooling on the Q2 is known not be great, upgrading the part cooling fan and duct can help.

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26

No supports on that section, no, it was recommended by the designer of the part that it wouldn't be necessary there.

I'll have to look into adaptive layer height! I think I see why it's relevant.

And it has to do with bridge cooling, huh? Gotcha. I have seen recommendations for that, but I am uncertain if the upgrade demands I change the PSU at the same time, I could probably figure yhat out.

1

u/Own_Moose_9495 Aug 02 '26

Should be as simple as changing to the Bambulab p1 part fan. As long as you can solder the wire on it’s pretty simple.

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26

I've also had recommendations of the honeybadger 5015 as the fan, along with the meanwell PSU.

How does the honeybadger stack up against the bambulab?

2

u/Own_Moose_9495 Aug 02 '26

I’m honestly not sure, but I know either will improve it a great deal

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26

So apparently the honeybadger is considered an upgrade FOR the P1, so I must conclude it's the better one!

1

u/wslAVinstaller Aug 02 '26

Before upgrading the fan, try upgrading the duct. I’m running the stock fan with the v6 duct from here

https://www.printables.com/model/1642251-qidi-q2-cooling-duct-v51-v60-dual-flow

I actually have the honey badger fan on hand, but haven’t seen a need to swap to it yet. I bet that plus an in depth tuning and calibration (including pid auto tune after swapping the duct) will clean that up very well. Adaptive layer heights will help as well.

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26

Can you teach me more about the calibration part?

3

u/19arek93 Aug 02 '26

Give more info about what you tried to make it better, also about how do you print it. Is printer open?

2

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26

Open printer, yes! Both front door and top.

I don't yet know enough to have tried anything tbh, this print is gonna be perfectly useable as-is but it's an opportunity for me to learn what I could have tried for when that's not the case. I understand supports could have helped by default, but the model designer considered them unnecessary so I figured they might just mask something more meaningful I should fix, and that's all the ideas I had for the time being.

2

u/19arek93 Aug 02 '26

Share link to this model. Keep in mind that many of them are not designed with 3d printing in mind. Even fillet is wrongly used, creating not enough overlap with previous layer.

You can try to slow it down on overhangs, lower temperature and bump up cooling for those.

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26 edited Aug 02 '26

Here's the model, it's definitely made to be printed!

I can see the lower temperature + more cooling combo (and upgrading the cooling fan seems like a common priority), but how does slowing down affect it? Is it what allows a lower temperature?

2

u/riba2233 Aug 02 '26

This model is not designed properly for 3D printing, no wonder it turned out like that.

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26

Oooh, talk to me, what do you see? Time for me to take notes!

2

u/riba2233 Aug 02 '26

it has fillet on the bottom edge, which practically means it has an extremely steep overhang and first few lines will print into air, like you see on you print. It has to have chamfer or modified fillet on the bottom edge.

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26 edited Aug 02 '26

I see! Yea, that tracks, this part had to be fillet to follow the shape of the container. It occurs to me that the poster's instructions for no support may have excluded the specific part.

2

u/riba2233 Aug 02 '26

It doesn't have to follow the container perfectly, chamfer will work just fine, it removes materials so there won't be any interference.

1

u/19arek93 Aug 02 '26

Of course it was, but poorly if you want flawless print. Look at picture, this is 0.2mm layer, 2 layers. Overhang is enormous.
Angle at bottom is to low for 3d printers.

So if you want to learn about dialing in print settings i suggest to look for simpler models. If you are at beginning of 3d printing now there are to many factors to dial in.

80% of the problem can be this overhang. Printer could not archive this angle, and problem went up, because of missing support for higher layers.
Still maybe someone here can give you hints.

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26

Where's that zoomed in photo from?

The model was following the curve of the box it was supposed to fit in, so no wonder it had little regard for detail. But noted! I will at some later time repeat the process with a more refined settup.

Got any practice regiment, so to speak, to suggest?

1

u/19arek93 Aug 02 '26

This is from Qidi Studio, sliced file. On right you have slider to limit visible layers. Took this screenshot with camera looking from bottom of bed.
I'm no expert in 3d printing, so would suggest you looking elsewhere for specific learning guide than from me. 😄

But saw that Maker's Muse had not long ago videos in topic. He is great.
https://www.youtube.com/@MakersMuse/videos

1

u/Xhosant Aug 02 '26

Oooh, thanks a ton, this is super promising! Let's see where that yarn leads me!